Prusik self-belay acceptable?

NorthCascades
NorthCascades Posts: 10,970 Member
in Fitness and Exercise
I know there are a few climbers in here. I'd love a second opinion on this. Obviously only when a real partner isn't available. I have a friction route in mind, 50 yards from the road, drilled anchor at the top. (I have a PLB.)

Replies

  • jjpptt2
    jjpptt2 Posts: 5,650 Member
    I've just started climbing, so I'm really just curious to see who else climbs...
  • NorthCascades
    NorthCascades Posts: 10,970 Member
    Top rope, there's a short 5.4 friction route, so not much arm use, just for balance. Thinking (days when I can't get a partner) I'll tie the rope around the midpoint at the anchor to have two independent stands, and wrap a prusik around each. Move up, slide the knots up. Once I get up above the ground, it's a clean fall. I'm comfortable on 5.8 and can climb a little higher, with a real belay.

    I'm general I feel pretty comfortable with the idea, and that I should try it and see how it goes. But felt like a sanity check was in order.

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