Mtb- Upgrading to 10 speed cassete
jerbsod
Posts: 48
aBout a Year ago I bought a MTB 29er Norco It came stock with shimano alivio 9 speed cassete. It's an absolute maintenance nightmare to keep derailleurs working day after day riding in the dirt.
to keep frt and rear working I clean them every Saturday and adjust them and lubricate . Even doing all this I still have the occasional frt derailleur lock up and rear derailleur strugling to shift gear from time to time.
Since it looks like 9 speed cassetes are going to be phased out I am considering updating to a 10 speed cassette with a shadow DynaSys Zee shimano derailleur keeping my frt groupset as is now to save money then upgrade that when its worn along with frt derailleur.
I would buy the following
-10 speed chain 114 link
-Rear derailleur Zee Shimano
-Rear shifter 10 speed Zee Shimano
Now if I go ahead with this the parts are around $180
should I attempt to do this myself or give to my local bike shop to fit?
my gut feeling tells me to have it done by a pro so its done right and reliable in future I dunno how much they would charge me to do this and supply the parts.
I ride a track that is 20Km long everyday and the shifting is constant and demanding on the gear that's why I am having so much trouble with my current drivetrain while riding I can hear the derailleur hanger or chain smashing against chainstay passing holes or tree roots, rocks etc,,
what you think?
to keep frt and rear working I clean them every Saturday and adjust them and lubricate . Even doing all this I still have the occasional frt derailleur lock up and rear derailleur strugling to shift gear from time to time.
Since it looks like 9 speed cassetes are going to be phased out I am considering updating to a 10 speed cassette with a shadow DynaSys Zee shimano derailleur keeping my frt groupset as is now to save money then upgrade that when its worn along with frt derailleur.
I would buy the following
-10 speed chain 114 link
-Rear derailleur Zee Shimano
-Rear shifter 10 speed Zee Shimano
Now if I go ahead with this the parts are around $180
should I attempt to do this myself or give to my local bike shop to fit?
my gut feeling tells me to have it done by a pro so its done right and reliable in future I dunno how much they would charge me to do this and supply the parts.
I ride a track that is 20Km long everyday and the shifting is constant and demanding on the gear that's why I am having so much trouble with my current drivetrain while riding I can hear the derailleur hanger or chain smashing against chainstay passing holes or tree roots, rocks etc,,
what you think?
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Replies
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Have you ever changed the cables on your bike? Are you reasonably proficient at adjusting your der? If so, do it yourself then take it to a shop for fine tuning. Otherwise have a shop do it all.
And as an FYI... you'll need a new rear shifter, too.
And for what it's worth, it might just be low end parts, not an issue of 9speed vs 10. Also, could you have a bent hanger or something? Have you had it to a reputable shop for a tune-up? It shouldn't require THAT much maintenance.
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good points, I am not too scared of doing the work and pretty sure I could do it , what worries me is the ho (#$%^!) moment when you realize you haven't either ordered the right parts or forgotten to order something.
I am pretty reasonable at adjusting the derailleurs.
maybe I am expecting too much of my components but I have noticed that unless it's clean as a whistle it just start misbehaving.
-Frt derailleur locks up and refuse to shift ( happened twice)
had too loosen cable and activate with a screw driver, lubricate and reset limit screws and cable tension.
I took bike to bike shop for frt derailleur problem and he couldn't find anything wrong except that it was locked up for no obvious reason.
- Every second or third day the rear refuse to shift one gear I have to shift 2 gears instead even though I have wiped the chain and the derailleur clean of dust with a rag the day before.
When its Clean it works well but i needs to be like spotless if dust gets in there it start playing up. If i go ride 30Kms when clean on bitumen there is no problem (I only ride on dirt so obviously it;s annoying
)
I also noticed that when my frt derailleur locks up it's after a hard shock passing a rock or a hole. When I want to shift again It doesn't want to go anywhere
the rear derailleur hanger isn't bent , I believe its just the components aren't designed to be in dirt and gravel 100% of time.
When I see bikes full of mud and still working I Know mine would not be.
Other than that my bike performs very nicely its nimble. it can climb the wheels are still true 100% the brake system is still 100% silent.. the fork does the job ( no play ) the frame has no problem and absorbs shock well. I am very happy with it except for the shifting that is really annoying.
and yes I would also need a rear shiftier and a new cable .0 -
[img]]http://i911.photobucket.com/albums/ac311/jeromeberthierjerbsod/th_brokenclamp_zps578a1635.jpg[/img]
how do u insert pictures in here?
not working for me? 0 -
I would love to hear how it goes with the update. I've thought about it myself but I keep getting told it's too expensive to change out all the components to go from 9 to 10. I have an older Trek that I would like to do that with. Either that or switch the front derailed from a 3 to a 2 mini.
On a side note, My Kona has never had issues shifting clean or dirty and although I hose it down every time I ride in the mud, I don't make adjustments more than twice a year. I do hose it down and lube the chain after each mud bath but it sure seems like you are needing to make adjustments a lot more than you should be.0 -
I Found the problem on my frt derailleur, I tied to post pic with the forum code but that doesn't work. So I am going to describe it.
On the derailleur there is a vertival plate that prevents the cable slipping towards the front of the bike its about 1 mm thick and protrude 10 mm pass the cable. When I downshift the front middle ring to the small one the cable doesn't go back resting where it should be but on top of the guide plate instead (derailleur is dual pull and its used top pull on my bike) it sits on top of the plate thats raised 10mm and sits on that 1mm edge perfectly making it impossible for thee derailleur to fully retract.
The frt derailleur not being where it should because of cable tension puts pressure on the chain makes noises and makes rear derailleur shifting difficult because it bends the chain.
This doesn't happens every time but I have slacked the cable a little and found a tension that seems to prevent it. Went for a ride yesterday and it was perfect,
time will tell.
I am going to upgrade to x10 shadowplus Zee model I read that lots of ppl had problem with FS bikes and Shimano XT, not so much with XTR and Zee models.
I would like to go 2x10 instead of 3x10 sp I am still considering the options
3x10 will cost me around $250 i need to call my bike shop to see what they would charge me to do it for both options
I think the bike shop is the way to go on this because they will know what work and what doesn't as far as component compatibility are concerned.
If i go 2x10 I will replace large front ring with a bash guard and maybe change the 2 other frt rings to 26 -38 instead of 24 -36
I don't know if crankset can have X10 narrow chain rings at the front, If I go 2x10 My cassette will be 11-36 or 11-34 if I keep 3x10
I think the consesnsus is that if you go x10 it's sensible to drop the big frt ring wich frankly I only use in descents and it simplifies the set up mechanically .0 -
I have a 3x10 setup on two different bikes - one is 'full XT', the other is 'budget Deore'.
Apart from the weight of the rear wheel and the feel of the shifters, there is nothing to choose between them. Both have significant mileage on them, neither have been adjusted in months and months.
I ran 2x10 initially on one bike and 3x10 on the other. I missed the big ring though as I have road riding to do before I get to the trails.
I would not bother going from a 9speed to a 10speed. all you are going it gaining 2-3 gears, I've never found myself thinking 'dammit I wish there was a gear between these two'
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If you want to upgrade, then upgrade. But if you are really looking to upgrade in order to fix your problem, I woudn't be so quick. I still maintain that simply adding more gears won't help. Better shirters/ders may, but I stick with my previous comments that I'm betting something else is going on. I've got fairly high end stuff now, but I spent many a year on entry level shimano stuff and never had any problem. I rarely lube, and I even less frequently clean and have had very few problems over the years.
Running 9speed gear isn't your problem.0 -
I would not bother going from a 9speed to a 10speed. all you are going it gaining 2-3 gears, I've never found myself thinking 'dammit I wish there was a gear between these two'
That's it
a 11/34 9sp has the same hi/lo ratios as a 11/34 10sp. The only difference being that the low three or four gears might be a tooth closer to each other because of the extra cog thrown in.
I wouldn't worry too much about 9 speed parts becoming obsolete. There's a lot around to last a long time. 6 and 7sp freewheels have been "out of date" for years and years but they are easy to find and can be had quite cheap.
Check your rear cable for proper lube in the housing, especially since the weather has turned cold.0 -
Thx people I solved my issue, It was that cable as described above, I was only going to change if the poor shifting continued, I have been riding nearly everyday and its working fine now, haven't missed a gear in my last 4 rides.
I still clean like a maniac to the great fun of my kids ( bike is cleaner than the car ) 0 -
Good deal!!!! It's always great to fix the problem. Upgrading usually won't provide a good cost/ratio benefit.
Next time you get cables be sure to get stainless, they don't cost but a bit more and are worth the difference. The drawn or extruded stainless cables are the smoothest of the bunch.
Cheap cables three bucks, good cables six bucks one step up that's worth it.0
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