A question for the Action Camera users...
TheBigYin
Posts: 5,686 Member
I know a few of you out there use GoPro's or similar... I borrowed one from a mate for a couple of days, with a helmet mount and a handlebar clamp mounting. I've tried both and had pretty awful results from each one, in different ways.
The helmet mount, aside from looking bleeding awful and making you look like you've a character from the tellytubbies on your head, is difficult to get the correct angle of elevation on... I suppose it'll be fine once I've sorted out what works, but today I got 50 minutes of handlebars and tyres, and Wednesday it was 30 minutes of sky with a bit of road at the bottom of the screen unless I was looking at the garmin.
The handlebar clamp however is much easier to align, but the image is barely watchable as it appears to have been filmed from the top of a road drill, not a relatively absorbent 'cross bike. I know the roads around here are awful in places, but jeeze... I could feel my fillings loosening just watching the playback... God only knows what it'd be like on the race bike with skinny tyres and a less compliant pair of wheels.
So, my question is this... How do you get something acceptable out of the kit... I know from other video work that there is software image stabilisation that can help a bit, but that's a big, time consuming thing to have to run your files through each time.
The helmet mount, aside from looking bleeding awful and making you look like you've a character from the tellytubbies on your head, is difficult to get the correct angle of elevation on... I suppose it'll be fine once I've sorted out what works, but today I got 50 minutes of handlebars and tyres, and Wednesday it was 30 minutes of sky with a bit of road at the bottom of the screen unless I was looking at the garmin.
The handlebar clamp however is much easier to align, but the image is barely watchable as it appears to have been filmed from the top of a road drill, not a relatively absorbent 'cross bike. I know the roads around here are awful in places, but jeeze... I could feel my fillings loosening just watching the playback... God only knows what it'd be like on the race bike with skinny tyres and a less compliant pair of wheels.
So, my question is this... How do you get something acceptable out of the kit... I know from other video work that there is software image stabilisation that can help a bit, but that's a big, time consuming thing to have to run your files through each time.
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I wish I could answer your questions, but I am still playing with mine. I have a GoPro, think the Hero2, I agree about the helmet mount. I have also tried using it for very short mtb rides on the handle bar, seat post rear facing, and on the fork leg for a lower view. I have read about changing the resolution and fps to get a better image but I cant say whats best.
Add to that I know next to nothing about editing so I really cant help there.0 -
There are a couple of apps available on Android and iOS compatible with the GoPro (at least 3 if not earlier). It wouldnt help much with the handlebar mount but it would allow you to preview on your phone's screen the image from your helmet mount and adjust as necessary while sat on the bike in your normal position.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.gopro.smarty
At least at this time of year you can wear a full face balaclava to mitigate against the Tellytubby effect.0 -
Frankly, I doubt I'm likely to spend £300 on a GoPro, it's far more likely to be something like the £100 SVC camera that Cloggsy mentioned a while ago... which kind of rules out WiFi links to apps, but it does have an in-built display...
http://tclsvc200.com/
To be honest, I just wanted it for a couple of "proof clips" for the Classics Challenge - shift things up a gear from the "cameraphone snap of some cobbles" or whatever...0 -
I bought a Drift HD170 from eBay for about £90 ( http://driftinnovation.com/support/manuals/hd170-stealth/ ), I played about a bit and mounted it direct to the pannier rack on the back of my hybrid, the result was pretty stable considering i didn't use any post-production software. it has a screen built in so you can review the image & a cyclist friendly remote (wrist-mount & large buttons) if you want to just record sections of the ride or to take photos if you select that option. i'm happy with it but will be trying out different mount positions on the front of the bike in time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY9Cso_BkeU0 -
Had a little play with the footage from this Sundays Ride...
http://www.kinomap.com/watch/jdgukd
some of you may recognise the chapel about 28 minutes in... it's been in quite a few of my Instagram shots...0 -
I didn't think your footage was bad actually, the sound makes it feel worse ....bump bump bump bump , a smoother road helps too, the tarmac on your trip looks shocking! lol (second half looks more smooth though), looking at the footage it's not the best for filming, helmet mounting is better on roads like that for filming, you body takes the impact judder out of it so its just about getting it aligned properly0
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Yeah - helmet camera stuff works better...
http://www.kinomap.com/watch/knp5m8
(I was basically trying out my options and did a couple of different settings / setups)
but yeah - the roads are bleeding awful - why do you think I bought a 'crosser for the winter and put 28mm section tyres on there :laugh:0 -
Right, working on the "Noise Issues" - it appears on examining the camera and housing, that quite a bit of the rattly noises come from the camera not being an entirely smooth fit inside the waterproof case.
Being an inverate tinkerer with hardware, I thought "maybe if I 'shim' it somehow..." - so initially I took a couple of post-it notes attached them to the bottom and non-display side of the camera and fitted it into the case. A quick "shake test" confirmed that the rattly noise had gone.
Next brainwave was to use some black flock fablon (sticky backed plastic for the Blue Peter afficionados) which I use for reflection-blocking on camera lens-hoods and light traps of old film cameras. A piece of this attached to the inside of the case at the bottom and up the non-display side of the case and the camera is now a perfect fit, no rattles - and the flock effect ensures the camera itself doesn't get scratched in the process.
I have to say I'm actually quite chuffed with this quick and easy fix...0 -
lol your helmet cam work is more juddery, weirdly I had the opposite effect when I tried it ... although didn't do much to be fair so maybe it was more down to having a smooth road! Get the council out to sort those roads out!0
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I think the Helmet Camera stuff's problem is more the mounting - or more to the point - how the mounting interacts with my particular helmet. With this cameras mount, and on my Specialized Propero, the only place it'll fasten is right on the crown of the lid, so every slight movement of my head from side to side results in shots that look like they were taken on a racing Yacht in mid-tack...
Plus, In order to keep the helmet/camera from moving around I had to have the retention straps so tight it felt like my head was in a vice - probably due to the lid slipping on the microfleece cap which was frankly essential that morning :laugh:0 -
Well - yesterday I took the Camera out on the MTB, and it seems that my "Flock Fix" seems to have made a pretty big difference - even allowing for the fact that it was on the MTB with big tyres and suspension, the sound was far clearer. Not likely to be able to check on the roadbike today - it's blowing a bit of a Hoolie again - next doors recycling box has just blown past my kitchen window...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoLdTGkxTus0 -
I have a Go Pro setup with my road bike. I have the aluminum handlebar connector knock-off from ebay which is just like the K-edge version. It basically puts the camera out in front instead on top or below the handlebars. So far it is great with a road bike. Of course video would be stabilized on smooth roads. I use the open back connector that lets more sound in.
The setu is good for races or group rides. It could get pretty boring with 3+ hours of footage. I would think the helmet mount would be more suitable for mountain bikes.
17 mile drive in Pebble Beach
http://youtu.be/NB2gwqwzfOM0 -
I don't know how they attached them, but I have seen some video from cameras attached to riders chests. They stay fairly stable and I guess that they pretty much ride at the same angle. Worth a try.0
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I use a Sony AS-10 on my helmet mate; it has image stabilisation built in...
I think it was circa £100 on eBay (New).
Review of it here: http://tinyurl.com/ltsl8890 -
https://player.vimeo.com/video/90497964
Footage I shot last Sunday with a GoPro Black 3+. I used the vented helmet mount. I set mine up slightly front of center and seemed to be a good perspective. However, I contest to TheBigYin's sentiment with feeling like blok riding down the road with this antenna on my head (ironically no driver issues that day though). It did feel heavy after a while and I will likely not use that mount anymore. I'm planning to ride some gravel this weekend and am going to use my chest mount (Google "chesty") instead. Perspective will be more first-person, of course the viewer may get tired of looking at my arms, at least they're decorated, ha.0 -
This:
... is not a good look - Which is why I wouldn't go for the ol' GoPro on the head thing...
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
Remind you of anyone?
:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:0 -
Could be worse...
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Could be worse...
Although a little less conspicuous than my pic... Hey, you can't see where you're going & you can see the flies getting stuck in your teeth when you're 'on the rivet'...0 -
This is my set-up...
You wouldn't know I had a camera on my lid...
Much :laugh:
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