Tube Replacement Tip
chivalryder
Posts: 4,391 Member
Tip for my cycling friends: When replacing a tube, coat the tube with a thin layer of baby powder before putting it into the tire. This will help the tube as it inevitably twists and moves around in the tire and will prevent pinch flats.
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I know some people that do that but I just make sure that I put a little air in the tube before putting it on. This has always stopped the tube from twisting and I can honestly say I've never had a pinch flat for that reason.
Of course now I'm hoping my tubed days are over having made the foray into the tubeless world
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I fill it up with a bit of air as well, but the tube never fits exactly perfectly and it's really annoying when the valve doesn't align perfectly with the valve hole. Making the tube slippery helps a lot with making little adjustments and such.
I would love to run tubeless, but my only bike is my commuting steed and I intend on using it for light touring in the near future. Tubeless isn't ideal for either situation because fixing a flat on a tubeless bike in the field is a messy, messy job. I'd rather take on the extra weight so fixing a flat, which is a rare occurrence, wouldn't be such a hassle when on my way into work.0 -
I fill it up with a bit of air as well, but the tube never fits exactly perfectly and it's really annoying when the valve doesn't align perfectly with the valve hole. Making the tube slippery helps a lot with making little adjustments and such.
I would love to run tubeless, but my only bike is my commuting steed and I intend on using it for light touring in the near future. Tubeless isn't ideal for either situation because fixing a flat on a tubeless bike in the field is a messy, messy job. I'd rather take on the extra weight so fixing a flat, which is a rare occurrence, wouldn't be such a hassle when on my way into work.
Not quite sure I understand what you mean by the valve aligning with the hole? When putting in a tube I always put the valve in first so it is by definition 'aligned' Perhaps I'm missing something?
The main advantage to tubeless of course is that many of the common causes of flats are eliminated because there is no tube. Also if you get a thorn or nail type puncture of the tyre the sealant within the tyre will seal it very effectively. Most likely you will not even know it happened.
Finally if the hole is too large to be self sealed, you can just stick a tube in and be on your way. I keep a spare tube in my seat bag and a paper towel to wipe the inside of the tyre/rim. It is slightly messy but not really a big deal.0 -
The one time it's worth actually doing this is if you're running Latex tubes rather than the butyl ones... Butyl are fine with Veloman's option - I do exactly the same with most of my wheels - though I have to admit, with the Ultegra "tubeless ready" rims (and consequent tight fit of the tyre into the beads even with non-tubeless tyres - even with the lack of any rim-tape in the well) frankly it's hard enough to get the tyre seated bare-handed with the inner-tube completely flat...
Indeed - with certain tyres (Continental's spring to mind) they're so tight on the rim that I often have to soak new Tyres in a bucket of hot water for 10 minutes or so before trying to fit 'em. Add a couple of drops of washing up liquid to the bucket and things slip into place fine. But on inflation, there's the self same "Pings" you get with tubeless tyres as the bead "snaps" into place on the rim.
But back on my original point - LATEX innertubes are so much more flexible and stretchy than the butyl ones, anything that can give an extra bit of slippage inside the carcase of the tyre will actually help prolong the inner tubes life by stopping it wearing thin against the inside carcase.
I fully intended going over to Tubeless this summer myself, but... when I needed tyres, the Schwalbe One's were still "coming soon" in the UK, and waiting a week sans bike (I'd pretty much ruined all my other tyres) for shipping from a German bikestore was not going to happen. So - I bought the "normal" One's instead of the tubeless and it's looking like they'll probably do me early season next year too, due to my lower than hoped for distance this summer.0 -
I had bought a Kool Stop Tire Jack several years ago in case I ever needed it.
I got some GP4000's at the first of this year and used it for the first time. No fuss, no muss. Easier with less time than fussin 'n fightin.
http://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Tire-Bead-Jack/dp/B001AYML7K/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1411763693&sr=1-1&keywords=tire+jack0 -
Yep the Kool Stop's are the business!
Mark, The Schwalbe One's (tubeless) are really impressive. Fantastic ride quality and grip. The rubber feels a bit soft so not sure how long they'll last but really don't care. I'm tubeless and I'm proud 0 -
Mark, The Schwalbe One's (tubeless) are really impressive. Fantastic ride quality and grip. The rubber feels a bit soft so not sure how long they'll last but really don't care. I'm tubeless and I'm proud
Yeah - I Must Admit, the normal tubed ones are pretty damned good - nearest clinchers i've ridden to the feel of proper Tubs (especially with the Vittoria Latex innertubes i've got in there) - tyre wear's been pretty good as well, considering how soft the compound actually feels - as I say, they're likely to be coming off the bike in the next couple of weeks, as I swap to the off-season wheels, but I reckon they're still good for another 2-3k, so I may be laying in some of the tubeless variety for next summer.0 -
Tip for my cycling friends: When replacing a tube, coat the tube with a thin layer of baby powder before putting it into the tire. This will help the tube as it inevitably twists and moves around in the tire and will prevent pinch flats.
I use Clubman's Talc. Works fine and smells great!0 -
I fill it up with a bit of air as well, but the tube never fits exactly perfectly and it's really annoying when the valve doesn't align perfectly with the valve hole.
Air up the tube enough to be round-ish
Place the tube inside the tire
Slide the valve through the hole in the rim and screw on the valve cap
Get one side of the tire past the rim
Slide the tire around until the valve is straight
Get the other side of the tire past the rim starting at the valve
Hold the valve in place as you air up the tire. By the time the bead is pushed against the rim, it should be fine.0
