I'm 300lbs and looking for a new bike

gdjester1
gdjester1 Posts: 32 Member
edited November 7 in Social Groups
While I've been losing weight, mostly thanks to bike riding, I'm still currently at just under 300lbs. I've been riding an old 26" mountain bike that I bought for $60 at Walmart about 10 years ago. I feel I'm really slow on it as I always get passed on the trails by what seem like every other biker, but I love riding notheless. I know I'm too heavy for it but it's all I've got right now. Last night I was riding on a trail that was recently flooded out so a lot of large bedrock were exsposed. I hit a patch of these rocks and bent the rim of my rear wheel. So now I need to get a new wheel which has got me thinking about upgrading the bike altogether. I'm a relative newbie and not sure what I should be looking for.

Does anyone have any suggestions on a bike that can hold somone of my size, and is affordable? I don't want to invest a ton of money into one as the goal is to keep losing wieght until I'm around 215lbs. At that time I'll look to getting something high quality. Is there anything on the department store market that is worth it?

Just so you know I mostly ride on streets and on crushed rock trails. I don't hardly ever do any really hard terain biking (unless there is a flood).
Like I said I don't really know that much about different types of bikes right now so please excuse me if my questions seem ridiculous. If there is nothing out there like what I am looking for so be it. Just need some advice.

Replies

  • kcjchang
    kcjchang Posts: 709 Member
    Department store (e.g. Walmart, Sears, Costco, etc), no. What is your budget? If it around $400-500, your best bet is buy it online and assembly by yourself if mechanically inclined (Bike Nashbar, Bikes Direct, Bike Shop Warehouse, etc). As for bike type, you might want to consider a hybrid. It similar to a mountain bike but build around a road bike geometry (flat bars, wider tires, etc). Or, a cyclocross bike but you might find the geometry a bit too aggressive.

    Lastly, it's the engine not too much the bike. Personally I would get a cheap wheel and change out the tire to a slick or semi-slick and save up for a real treat. That what I'm doing now and have eyes set on a carbon once I hit my weight goal. Good luck.
  • KaktusJaque
    KaktusJaque Posts: 141 Member
    Hello-thanks for the invite! I think it’s great that you are looking to continue in the sport of bike riding. I think you did right by getting a cheap bike to try out the sport. I always recommend this to people looking to start bike riding for the first time. It’s not for everyone, so if a person does not like it, they are not out all that much. I feel Craigslist is would be your first best source for a new bike. You can find a top quality bike for a bargain price (sometimes from those that bought an expensive bike first and found out they didn’t like it lol). Ebay is good too. There will be almost infinite choices and you can find your size easier than CL, but you will not be able to see the bike before purchase, unless it's a local seller. Also, in most cases you have to pay shipping too, which some charge as much as $100.00 to ship.

    I want to mention three types of bikes that I think would work for you. Mountain bike or MTB also known as Cross Country (XC), a Cyclocross bike (CX) also known as a Gravel bike, and a Hybrid bike. The MTB bikes are going to be the most common ones on CL & EBay and the best bargains can be found with a MTB out of the three types. If you know or you will not be riding on technical trails and rough trails (or not very often) I would recommend a hard tail MTB. Less maintenance and less cost. Mountain Bikes are also the strongest of the three I mentioned. The next bike is the Cyclocross bike. This bike is like a road bike that you can ride both on and off road. It would not be a good choice for a really rough trail, but is great for easy single track trails and dirt roads, plus some mud, cuz mud is always fun!! It's also good if you want to really burn some calories, and do some longer distance (relative to you that is) road riding. The last bike is the Hybrid bike. Mostly intended for paved road/trail use, but can be taken off road as well on light trails. With a Hybrid you will be in a more upright position than the other two and is more of a "Leisurely" type of riding. I think all three would be good to go with your weight and weight goals.

    One of the most important things to consider when choosing a bike, is to get a bike that “Fits” you. The best way to know this is to go to your Local Bike Shop (LBS) and get measured. This will set you back about $100 plus or minus a few bucks. There is also plenty on the internet on the subject on how to find out your bike size at home. In any case it is imperative to get the bike that will fit you. It can make or break you on your riding experience.

    You didn’t mention your budget, but I would think for $300 to $500 you would be able to find a really nice bike in any of the three categories I mentioned above. When you find a bike post back and let us know, or if you find one and want to ask about it before you purchase post it here. Hope this helps a bit.
  • The other two guys have given you great info. I have a friend that started riding at 360lbs and is now down to about 295. He has a standard hardtail mountain bike (front suspension only) and standard road bike. Both have held up to his weight no problem. He did upgrade to heavier duty wheels on the mountain bike, but not because he damaged the originals. All that just to say pick the bike you want; it'll hold you!
  • lpherman01
    lpherman01 Posts: 212 Member
    One point that I would like to add is don't get cheap wheels. Someone of your weight (I now, I used to be 260 for a while) needs really strong & stiff wheels. Leave the low spoke count light-weight stuff to the little guys. Make sure that you get deep section rims with 32 count 3 cross laced spokes and you will be a happy camper. You won't be busting up wheels anymore and your bike will not feel like a wimpy pretzel when you ride it hard. Also, forget the skinny tire nonsense. Ride on at least 28s, if not 32s. Again no more pinch flats and much more comfortable.
  • eaglelakebill
    eaglelakebill Posts: 120 Member
    I cleaned up my 16 year old big box store mountain bike
    and started riding about 3 months ago the same time I started
    MFP. I caught the bug I love to ride. I started at 200 lbs and now
    I'm at 178! The bike had now problem holding my weight.
    bikedorums.net has a section called "clydesdales" for riders
    over 200 lbs lots of good info in there forums!

    http://www.bikeforums.net/clydesdales-athenas-200-lb-91-kg/

    Also check out some of the cycling groups on these forums.
    We are currently doing a cycling challenge with 4 teams of 9 riders
    each, some are noobs like me and some have been riding for years!
    Everyone has been very helpful and encouraging!

    http://www.myfitnesspal.com/forums/show/3781-century-plus-cycling
    http://www.myfitnesspal.com/forums/show/361-bicycling-road-and-mountain
    http://www.myfitnesspal.com/forums/show/50057-mfp-strava-cycling-club
  • eaglelakebill
    eaglelakebill Posts: 120 Member
    Your already part of this group ignore my ignorance please !
    lol
  • veloman21
    veloman21 Posts: 418 Member
    I think it's great that you are tackling your weight concern with a healthy exercise like cycling. I have been on the trajectory that envision. It has been a lot of hard work and a LOT of fun. I started at 307lbs horribly overweight (I'm 5'11") and even tying my shoelaces left me puffing :-(

    I had an old Trek 820 multitour (hybrid) that had been in the garage basically unused for 15 years so I cleaned it up and started riding. I think decent steel framed bike will be good for you. If your current bike fits you, I would just replace the wheel with a strong, at least 36 spoke, wheel that you could buy on CL or Ebay for very little money. If your trails are paved, switching out your MTB tyres for slicks will increase your speed significantly. But speed probably should not be your focus at the moment, there will always be faster riders around :smile:

    Rather, concentrate on building up your base miles, get a HRM and try to stay in Zones 2 and 3. This will put you in fat burning mode. Of course, I'm sure you realize that you can't just cycle yourself skinny? So monitoring your food intake is equally important.

    When I reached weight goal milestones, I rewarded myself with a new bike:smile: At 250lbs I bought my first road bike, an alloy Trek 2.1. Loved the bike and riding on the road in groups was a blast. Speeds went up considerably and weight continued to fall. In the next 8 months I dropped below 220lbs and treated myself to a carbon road bike (Cervelo R3). Wow! Big difference in handling, acceleration and climbing ability.

    Today I'm down to 190lbs, I've gone from a 48" waist to a 34" waist and I ride most days. I've become a much better cyclist which has increased my enjoyment of cycling tremendously and I'm happy in the knowledge that this is an exercise that I can safely do for many, many years to come. If I can hit my next (ultimate?) goal of 180lbs, I may reward myself with another new bike :wink:

    So welcome to the journey, it's a rewarding ride. I hope cycling gives you as much pleasure and as many rewards as it has me:smile:
  • TDSeest
    TDSeest Posts: 1,089 Member
    Another thing to keep in mind is gearing. You'll find riding much more enjoyable if you get a really good cassette (11-36) on the back, and a good crank (44-33-22) on the front. Having the low gears to spin up hills will allow you to build endurance, and keep you from injuring yourself. I'm still above your weight and I average about 12 MPH and have ridden 17,000 miles in the last 3.5 years, and I could not have done it without great wheels, and low gearing...
  • kcjchang
    kcjchang Posts: 709 Member
    Another thing to keep in mind is gearing. You'll find riding much more enjoyable if you get a really good cassette (11-36) on the back, and a good crank (44-33-22) on the front. Having the low gears to spin up hills will allow you to build endurance, and keep you from injuring yourself. I'm still above your weight and I average about 12 MPH and have ridden 17,000 miles in the last 3.5 years, and I could not have done it without great wheels, and low gearing...

    Amen! Using my old race setup of 53/39 w/11-24 7 speed, while carrying an extra 35 lbs with 20+ year hiatus from the sport, really takes a toll on the psyche. Lucky it's flat where I now resides. There is no way I can do 1,500+ feet daily climb with it anymore. Took me two years just to accept the new reality. Once I hit weight goal, I'm switching to compact gearing and a new ride.

    As far as wheels goes, it's one thing you should not cut corners on. I'm still riding on my 2x double butted spokes/32 hole Campy Chorus/Mavic rim wheels that I built years ago. Spoke selection/cross pattern is one of four factors that contributes to the overall strength of the wheel. Equally important is your tire selection/inflation (I ride on 28s) and the strength of the rim. Less so on the fourth which is you hub. Think it cost me around $300-400 in 1989; around $600 today (?). I have over 25k miles on it and counting.
  • derrickyoung
    derrickyoung Posts: 136 Member
    I by no means am an expert on cycling. But I was 306 when I started this year. On top of all the excellent tips you have been given I will just add the following.

    Budget is everything. If your looking to spend little find yourself a rigid fork hard tale MTB. Most suspension forks are not meant for us Clydesdales especially on the cheaper bikes. And rear suspension on a cheaper bike is pretty not meant for anyone. As you go up in price then you start to get forks that will take the extra weight same goes for rear suspension.

    I bought a used 2003 Trek Liquid 20 at the start of the summer. The phsylo forks were just to soft and because of the age replacement springs were impossible to find. So I sold it to some skinny dude and bought a Used 2009 Trek Fuel EX8. It has air suspension which allows me to set the fork pressure using a pump and has a lock out so when on roads or climbing I can just lock the front out. The difference is night at day. I love my Fuel and look forward to every ride.
  • gdjester1
    gdjester1 Posts: 32 Member
    Wow! Thank you everyone for the information. This has been very helpful, even though I'm such a newbie I don't really know what some of this stuff is that your guys are recommending. lol. It gives me lots to go on, and to do some research with. I went to a local bike shop yesterday and bought a new wheel for my MTB. I originally had a steel one and they told me that an aluminum wheel would be stronger. Is that right? I went with it nontheless. I also changed out my tires from a knobby 26 x 1.95 to a slicker 26 x 1.75. A little narrower but not too much. It seems to ride really well.
    I may still need to take it back in to the bike shop. For some reason there seems to be a bit a slack in the chain when I coast and if I backpedal it gets jammed up. Any suggestions for that? I never had that problem before.

    I need to get it back running smoothly soon, I signed up for a charity 35mile ride on October 4th. So far the longest I've ridden is 21 miles at once, so this will be a challenge.
  • cdoesthehula
    cdoesthehula Posts: 141 Member
    You can do that!

    If the chain jams when you pedal backwards, it is probably the rear mech not quite being in like with the cog on the back. Does your bike have index gearing (little numbers on the shifters).
  • bsexton3
    bsexton3 Posts: 472 Member
    There is some good information here. The best advice when I got back into biking is to find a trustworthy bike shop. Do you like the people there? Do they give good service? Is some of their advice free or are they simply in it for the money? Obviously, their information is not all free, but find a shop you like. Truth is, my good friend likes a different shop than I do. Then, talk with them about your cycling plans, what type of riding you want to do. What you have and what your budget is.

    If they are a good shop, and your budget doesn't afford a new bike, they ill tell you what type, size, etc. of used bike to get. I would go with craigslist simply because you can find something local. Then, take it to the shop for a tune up, tubes, tires. If you find this shop, it will save you money and frustration in the long run.

    Finally, down the road, see if they offer simple tune up classes. Two years ago, I spent $75 for a five week class one hour class. Money well spent. My son just picked up a free bike at college because the brakes made noise, the gears didn't work and the tires were flat. For new tubes, new brake pads, one brake cable and straightening the derailed, he got a hardtail bike for $40 in parts.

    Go to a couple, talk about your riding, test a couple of their bikes. Find a good bike shop.
  • gdjester1
    gdjester1 Posts: 32 Member
    Once again thank you everyone for the great advice. Thought I would give an update. I fixed up my department store bike and rode it over 900 miles last year. I have decided that as reward to myself I am going to upgrade and get a new bike. I have decided on a fitness hybrid. I've narrowed it down between a Trek FX and a Kona Dew. I'm leaning toward to Kona. Any thoughts on the two? I'm going to make my purchase as soon as my tax refund comes in.
  • bsexton3
    bsexton3 Posts: 472 Member
    Once again, I mention the bike shop. I think it is as important as the bike.

    Even so, it depends on the type of riding you will be doing. The Kona looks more like an off road bike and the trek looks like a road/gravel bike. If you are planning on a 2,000 mile year, maybe the Trek is the bike for you.

    When I first started getting in shape, I got an REI bike similar to the Trek. It lasted as my only bike for years. I actually did a 7 week tour of Europe with it. Even so, looking back, I wished I had done it different. It is now the bike I keep on my trainer. Instead, I would buy knowing that I will eventually buy one more. Then, buy based on the type of riding I most want to do now.

    If you buy a carbon bike, buy it directly from a store. You cannot see if the frame is damaged simply by looking at it. And, having two break, it was nice to have them under a lifetime warranty and getting them replaced for free.

    Now, I have a carbon road bike, a Trek touring bike, a mountain bike and a 35 year old tandem. Now that the kids are out of the house, the tandem is next to be replaced.
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