PowerPod Powermeter
rileysowner
Posts: 8,336 Member
Is anyone familiar with the PowerPod powermeter? I can't see it being very useful indoors on the trainer if I understand how it works properly, but for outdoor riding it might be an option. I am shopping around for a powermeter for my bike, and this came up as I was searching.
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Everything you ever wanted to know about it by The Man himself over on the DC Rainmaker site. Enjoy.
Edit: be sure to read the summary at the bottom where he talks about price points. That pretty much sums up my feelings on the matter as well.0 -
Everything you ever wanted to know about it by The Man himself over on the DC Rainmaker site. Enjoy.
Edit: be sure to read the summary at the bottom where he talks about price points. That pretty much sums up my feelings on the matter as well.
as per usual ^^ what he said
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Thanks. That was good reading.1
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Basically, PowerPod isn't a power meter, it's a power guestimator; it's like Strava Power, but not free.
You can get a PowerTap hub for about $300 now. That will measure your power, your complete power, be reliable, give you +/- 1.5 % accuracy, and not force you to hang anything from your handlebars.2 -
I'd stay away... Spend just a little more and get the below just like stages.
https://4iiii-innovations.myshopify.com/collections/power-meters/products/precision-factory-install?variant=23440795334
That would be one of the ones I would consider. I don't know if it would go on the crank set of my current road bike as it is from the '80s, but it is one I have looked at repeatedly.0 -
it'll work fine with a 80's standard bike - buy a current era shimano 105 crankset (the 5800 series) with a matching 4iiii crank and the standard screw thread shimano BB cups will "just work" no problem whatsoever.1
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My L/R balance varies from ride to ride. Typically it's anywhere from 52/48 to 60/40. Seems to get closer to an even split at higher power levels. I didn't know I had an imbalance until I got a power meter that could measure both sides, I would have thought that everybody was 50/50, myself included. Turns out that's not the case.
I wouldn't get a left-only power meter for that reason, and would recommend against it. One-sided meters just double whatever they measure, assuming an even split. When I'm riding at 60/40, that means a one-sided meter would be a whopping 20 % off!
A hub-based meter won't have this problem, it'll be no more than 1.5 % off. They're cheaper (although you have to build it into a wheel) and dead on reliable. I really think that's a better option unless a wheel solution is off the table.0 -
The preference for a crank based is that it will work even when using my trainer. I think having the information on the difference between left and right is helpful, especially since I know one leg will work harder due to past injuries and simple leg dominance. I would actually sort of like to see that difference. Hub based intrigues me simply because of the simplicity and cost, although have not priced out having a wheel built since that is beyond my know how right now.0
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@rileysowner the 4iiii meter mentioned in this thread only measures the power coming from your left leg. So it can't give you any information about the difference between your left and right leg because it has no idea what your right leg is doing. 4iiii and other companies make PMs that can measure both legs, and a lot of people find that info useful when recovering from an injury, but the $399 one mentioned here can't do that.0
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NorthCascades wrote: »@rileysowner the 4iiii meter mentioned in this thread only measures the power coming from your left leg. So it can't give you any information about the difference between your left and right leg because it has no idea what your right leg is doing. 4iiii and other companies make PMs that can measure both legs, and a lot of people find that info useful when recovering from an injury, but the $399 one mentioned here can't do that.
I know that. I have been to there website. My thoughts were along the line of needing to go to a two side or go for hub meter. I would assume a two side would work with a trainer, while the hub one would since it would likely be front hub not read.0 -
I'm not trying to offend you telling you what you already know. Just trying to make sure you don't spend $400 on something that sounds likely to disappoint, but for reasons that aren't immediately obvious to everybody.
Garmin's Vector 2 might be an option worth considering. They're kind of finicky (you need a torque wrench to install them) but they'll give you a true dual sided measure. I'd probably go for P1 instead except that Vectors are selling for $1,000 and when REI does a 20 % off coupon, $800 isn't a bad price for a fully featured PM with a one-year return policy.0 -
So it seems my assumptions about hub based power meters was incorrect, and once I thought about it, it was obvious why. They are rear hub. Since I don't switch out the wheel like some seemingly do, that might be just the ticket for me. Time to continue saving up and shopping around.0
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NorthCascades wrote: »Garmin's Vector 2 might be an option worth considering.
Little known detail about the Vectors, and why I'm not getting them: They have a 200lb/90kg weight limit. I'm currently at nearly 220, and based on body fat scans, 10% body fat will still have me at 205-210. I can't go for those, ever.
Just something to be careful about. Oh, as for where to read that limit: https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/p/510941 at the very bottom of the page, this is a direct quote:
WARNING: The maximum weight limit of the cyclist using the Vector 2 system is 200 lbs (90 kg). Cyclists over this weight limit risk personal injury and property damage.
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Not dissing dual sided at all, but unless you are going to then take that data and do one leg drills to get a better left right balance, waste of money. Its pretty easy to figure out if you are inbalanced. Go get a massage and the therapist will be able to tell right away.
I don't think this is true. As mentioned above, I have a L/R imbalance when I cycle. It shows up consistently on different bikes with different power meters. But I have a perfect 50/50 L/R split when I run.
Also, the value of measuring from both legs isn't in improving your weaker leg, it's in having accurate data. The whole reason power meters cost so much is that you're paying for accuracy (and reliability). Otherwise, we could all be using Strava's estimates for free.1 -
pedermj2002 wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Garmin's Vector 2 might be an option worth considering.
Little known detail about the Vectors, and why I'm not getting them: They have a 200lb/90kg weight limit. I'm currently at nearly 220, and based on body fat scans, 10% body fat will still have me at 205-210. I can't go for those, ever.
Very very true. Although personally I haven't been below 200 lbs in many years.0
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