Road bike frame suggestions for extra tall riders?
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m1xm0d3
Posts: 1,576 Member
While I wait for my Diamondback MTB frame to get warranty replaced I am looking to purchase a road bike, which I have very little experience with. Can someone suggest manufacturers that cater to the tall riding community? It's gotta be on the lower end < 1000.
From what I have been reading, manufacturer frame size has very little meaning since each manufacturer has their own scale. I hope that makes sense.
From what I have been reading, manufacturer frame size has very little meaning since each manufacturer has their own scale. I hope that makes sense.
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Sizing on road bikes is based on the top tube length so that your center of gravity is just in front of the bottom bracket. Stem length is based on keeping the same center of gravity just in front of BB when you stand. Height of the stem is based on personal taste so long it does not shift your center of gravity away from, your guess it, just in front of the bottom bracket. Try http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp or test ride a few bikes to see how it fits, then take a look at http://bikesdirect.com/ if you are not to concern about banding; prices are just slightly over what LBS would pay for theirs and are just as good. Most bikes are made in the same factories either in China or Taiwan unless you are looking for exotics. It makes little difference where the bikes come from in the low and mid range pricing. Some quibble on where it is made on higher priced bikes but it mostly personal taste so long as you keep with known brands (slightly better QA/QC controls). Incidentally I'm holding off getting either a Motobecane TI or CF as a reward for getting back in shape. For now I'm riding my Trek 660 on the road and Schwinn Prologue indoors on a trainer. Good luck.0
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How tall are you?0
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Go get fit at a local bike shop.0
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Sizing on road bikes is based on the top tube length so that your center of gravity is just in front of the bottom bracket. Stem length is based on keeping the same center of gravity just in front of BB when you stand. Height of the stem is based on personal taste so long it does not shift your center of gravity away from, your guess it, just in front of the bottom bracket. Try http://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp or test ride a few bikes to see how it fits, then take a look at http://bikesdirect.com/ if you are not to concern about banding; prices are just slightly over what LBS would pay for theirs and are just as good. Most bikes are made in the same factories either in China or Taiwan unless you are looking for exotics. It makes little difference where the bikes come from in the low and mid range pricing. Some quibble on where it is made on higher priced bikes but it mostly personal taste so long as you keep with known brands (slightly better QA/QC controls). Incidentally I'm holding off getting either a Motobecane TI or CF as a reward for getting back in shape. For now I'm riding my Trek 660 on the road and Schwinn Prologue indoors on a trainer. Good luck.
Ah nice. Through my browsing I came across the same calculator so I will have to take measurements from home. Seems like a solid tool to use though. I also ventured to bikesdirect and noticed the Motobecanes come in a 64cm frame so I am eyeing those heavily right now because I could care less about brands as long as I get a solid bike that fits my size. Thanks for the suggestions and congrats on dropping the weight.How tall are you?
Yeah that might help... 6' 6" with a 37 in inseam.0 -
Yeah that might help... 6' 6" with a 37 in inseam.
You're not an off the shelf typical rider. In fact, you are in a very small percentage of the population that just about no bike companies cater to - at all. The bike industry targets sizes that are more common, and those on the fringes - especially the very tall such as yourself - are left hanging. Or left riding a bike much too small for their body (plenty of bike shops will try and squeeze you on a 61/62cm frame - which will be too small).
However, one that is close to your price range and that would fit like a glove is the KHS Flyte 747. It's co-designed by the master of tall cycling bike builder - Leonard Zinn.
Here's the model...
http://khsbicycles.com/bikes/2014-khs-models/flite-747-14/
I almost went for it myself last year when I was shopping. I'm 6'4" and lucked out on a Specialzed Roubaix in the 64cm frame size that they made last year (got one of the last 2 in the entire country). This year, they pretty much dropped that size except for only one of the high end Roubaix models costing over $6K.
Read this thread from start to finish at RoadBikeReview: http://forums.roadbikereview.com/bikes-frames-forks/any-tall-guys-63-64cm-frames-293928.html
You really need a size HUGE, with a very long head tube, and a fork that is designed to handle your weight compared to lighter riders. The Flyte 747 gets rave reviews from tall guys. Even though it is over your budget, the MSRP of $1749 is peanuts for getting a bike that actually fits. There's nothing like a good fitting bike. Anything else, even if it is under $1K, would be a waste of your money.0 -
Thanks for your post SS, unfortunately the price tag is well above my budget. My MTB frame cracked and left me stranded so I'm scrambling to get a saddle under my *kitten* again before the season is over. Its been ages since I had a road bike so before I make a huge investment I want to test the waters to ensure that's how I want to approach 2015.
I just got in to cycling last year by buying a 2013 DB Overdrive Sport and have been using my MTB with city tires on it to commute and have about 2500 miles on it and 90% if that was road miles so it's what I am used to and that's fine. I am already gutted about abruptly losing my MTB and my eyes are crossing from looking at countless road bikes and reviews this past week. At this point I am leaning towards a 64cm Motobecane on bikesdirect.0 -
Thanks for your post SS, unfortunately the price tag is well above my budget.
At this point I am leaning towards a 64cm Motobecane on bikesdirect.
Do they even have any 64cm in stock?
Too bad about your budget, as the KHS for $1699 is purpose built for a guy your size better than just about anything out there. http://www.atwistedspoke.com/review-khs-zinn-flite-747-this-is-a-big-deal/
You didn't mention what you weigh, but the single most important element of any bicycle are the wheels. The issue that effects tall riders the most will be the wheels. If they are not purpose built for your height/weight, no amount of truing the wheels will be worth it. Even my son, at 205 pounds, has to have special wheels for his road bike because he is as strong as an ox and breaks things easily. Or knocks a stock wheelset out of true about every second or third ride.
Do you think a Motobecane will have wheels designed to handle your weight at a price point that is sub-$1K?
There are some 64cm bikes on eBay. Looking for a used one might turn up something sub $1K.0 -
I'd look at ebay and Craigslist, you may find some screaming deals .......................... then again you might get a frame with a hairline crack too :-(0
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Yeah I see a Motobecane Mirage Pro in a 64cm for $550.. At the moment I am pushing 280lbs. I learned some about wheels when my MTB rear wheel gave out on me earlier this year. It was the stock Diamondback wheel. I bought another brand wheel and it's been fine since. To be fair, I was 310'ish at the time I was snapping spokes every 100 miles or so. After 3, I went to a new wheel. I am still dropping weight, though not as much without a damn bike, but I usually level out around 240. No less.
I put a feeler out on my local fb group for used bike stuff. I got laughed at mostly when I said I was looking for an XXL roadie complete for under a grand. One local guy did offer me to come over and check out his 72cm Cannondale for comparison.
I've never been fitted to a bike before so it's probably something I need to do. I measured my inseam, shoes off and feel 8" apart and I measured 37-38".
I wish I had the funds to go big like the KHS, but I just don't. I'm a single father providing for a 9yr old with no child support from the mother so until things change on that front, or I win the lottery, I'm stuck shopping for less than ideal bikes. I have a credit line with Amazon which is what prompted me to get my diamondback mtb from them (along with prime shipping & no hassle returns). But their roadies only go up to a 60cm. The XXL db mtb is a 22" which = 56cm? I def feel like I could still use a bigger bike. Maybe Diamondback measures their bikes at different points? I did notice when I went to the db, I was getting finger tingles a lot more frequently. I have been entertaining the idea of financing (zero 12mo interest) a new Diamondback from Amazon. Something like the 2014 Century 3 > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FFRX53C/ref=s9_simh_gw_p468_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1MQHF5HNDXF81DYWGX66&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1688200382&pf_rd_i=507846 but am now concerned with it being too small....
It's very frustrating trying to find a large bike when Manufacturer A says their 60cm fits guys 6'4"> and Manufacturer B says their 60cm fits someone much shorter. Thanks for listening to my long winded sob story.0 -
That pretty much sucks that there aren't a lot of options for you. I'd go with the Motobacane and save up for a new wheel set. My husband races a Motobacane MTB and the first thing he did when he got it was put new wheels on it and he's not big.0
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I'm 6'4" ans was 255lbs at the start of this year. My inseam is 34". Not quite as tall or as long legged as you. On the road, I've been riding an old steel chromoly Fuji road bike that was made in the 80s that I got from someone for free a few years ago.
I think this is a 56 or 58cm frame. Yeah, it is too small. But I have a extra long seatpost and the seat all the way back on the rails. Replaced the wheels, cables, freewheel, chain, seat, pedals, brake levers (newer type so to ride the hoods and stretch out more) and have gone through three sets of tires.
Spent maybe 300-400 slowly over the three years on the above stuff. It rides well and I am very tough on it, doing a lot of hard mashing at times on hills in higher gears just to build up leg strength.
Finding an old bike like mine might be a good bridge for you to try out road riding without investing much. It works for me, and I use this until I can get to my goal weight before rewarding myself with something better. And then, this old road bike will be my beater/backup bike. Honestly, the only thing I really dislike about it are the downtube friction shifters. But I don't want to invest in upgrading them to STI.
Also the steel is tough stuff. Might be a little heavier, but I don't have any worry about cracking the frame. The ride is also smooth!
Finally - a note about Motobecane. I bought an inexpensive aluminum mountain bike from them a few months ago - there is a thread in this group I started about it if you want the details. Been very happy with the bike and was able to hit my low price point. Sure, I would have liked to spend more, but the frame is really nice and strong and I can swap out components over time just like on my road bike. Lately I have been riding trails with a group and they all have more expensive bikes but I keep up just fine on the Moto. No broken spokes or wheel problems, even pounding over rocks and dropoffs. I have not one regret about that bike so far.0 -
Thanks BusyRae & Archon. I read your thread. It def sounds like the motob is my best option at this point. I have scoured craigslist on the daily for a nice used but no listings for bikes in my size.0
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If you are worry about breaking spokes, have it properly tensioned first before putting on the miles. Based on my experience working in a shop, it is one of the most critical part of maintaining the longevity of any wheels. Most of spokes I replaced on a wheel are caused by fatigue due to improper spoke tension. It's a shame that most bikes today have adopted more aggressive spoke patterns but they should still hold up to plenty of abuse if properly maintained. If you are unsure on the tension, check with your local bike club or LBS. Wheels from the factories generally are not properly tensioned.0
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That is good advice from Kc, above. Another problem with spokes that are poorly tensioned is that you can get a lot of punctures from the inside via the spoke nipples.
A quick field test is to gently tap or pluck each spoke on the same side of the wheel/hub all the way around and see if they all have relatively close pitch when they make a ping sound. It probably helps to have some experience with a string instrument and tuning too. If you have some spokes that are far different in pitch then the wheel will certainly need truing and possibly re-tensioning. Again, only compare "spoke notes" to the ones on the same side of the hub.0 -
Yeah I learned from a fellow rider about the 'click pitch' from squeezing 2 crossing spokes together. I think the first 2 LBS's I went to didn't know WTF they were doing. The 2nd, each time I broke a spoke, they trued the wheel and then snap a 100 miles later. The 3rd LBS seems to be ok so far.
Quick question. If a riders weight is supposed to be evenly distributed front/rear by being centered over the bottom bracket, shouldn't the tires wear somewhat even? On my db overdrive sport, I go through rear tires like crazy when the front is barely worn. And this is street miles, not dirt/gravel. I am wondering if the uneven tire wear is an indicator of having a too small bike frame.0 -
I don't know the answer definitively, but my rear tire wears at least 3x as fast like yours. I think that is probably normal. The seat is positioned behind the bottom bracket after all, so the weight of the rider is usually set back. Also, the rear wheel is the drive wheel too, so there is just more force going into it on a regular basis. Someone who knows the physics could enlighten us more on it.
On a related note: does anyone try to rotate tires to keep wear even, or is that a dumb idea?0 -
I rotate mine for longevity. Once my rear knobby was 3/4 way worn I rotated them and they ended up about even by the time both were replaced for a new set.0
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The rear wheel wear down more quickly is due to the differential torsional forces applied when propelling you forward. The front wheel response to changes in speed but not the surges seen in the back wheel. Total weight are not also necessary in the center of between the two hubs. Depending on the bikes geometry, the bottom bracket is closer to the rear wheel than the front thus your rear wheel is bearing more weight than the front. Aligning your center of gravity just in front of the BB maximizes your pedaling efficiency (leverage) and transfers more of the forces generate to the wheels.0
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I rotate mine for longevity. Once my rear knobby was 3/4 way worn I rotated them and they ended up about even by the time both were replaced for a new set.
If you haven't stumble upon it already, Sheldon Brown's site is a wealth of excellent information on bikes and bike maintenance. In general it's not a good idea to rotate the tires. See http://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-rotation.html.0 -
It's very frustrating trying to find a large bike when Manufacturer A says their 60cm fits guys 6'4"> and Manufacturer B says their 60cm fits someone much shorter. Thanks for listening to my long winded sob story.
I would ignore most all of those charts as they are clueless (and were written by much shorter guys). ;-) I hope you don't buy your pants with an inseam that is 2" shorter than what you really need because that is all you could find? Same should go for a bike: get one that fits.
Frustrating, but reality is that there are some out there that know a lot about tall cyclists. I suggest you read this interview with the man who leads the way in all matters tall and big for cyclists:
http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/10/bikes-and-tech/technical-faq/technical-faq-designing-frames-and-components-for-big-riders_306560
He addresses all of the issues a tall and heavy cyclist faces.
In terms of height alone, look where you are on this chart of US adult male population height. The bike industry targets the middle of that chart (from 5'4" to 6'4") because that is where the real customer base is for them and profits.
That's why Leonard Zinn has taken up the slack niche of targeting the 6'5" and taller cyclist with everything he does (because he's that tall himself). Even if you can't afford the KHS Flyte 747 that he helped design (it now comes in two sizes believe it or not), reading his interview above, checking out his website where there are fit calculators for road bikes and mountain bikes - you will get a very good idea of how to find a bike that will fit you and handle your weight.
For safety's sake, getting a bike that will not break is worth it's weight in gold - no matter what the cost.
At 6'6", you are in such a minority of the population that no bike company can afford to target your market as there are simply too few customers to make it worthwhile for them. How many at your height and beyond in the US male population? Not enough for bike companies to care. Here's some famous tall drinks of water and the reality of the few numbers that make up your rarity...
It's no wonder we see tall guys riding bikes that are way too small for them, and breaking parts because they weigh more than the parts were designed to handle (remember the middle of that chart up above where the majority of the customer base lies, and everything is designed around them).
One blog I read from time to time is called "Tall Adaptations" by a guy who is I think 6'7" of so. Here's his take on the 747 road bike...
http://www.talladaptations.com/2013/10/best-tall-road-bike-khs-flite-747.html0
