Road Biking
cycle_queen
Posts: 49 Member
I'm new to the group as of today. My name is Sarah and I'm from Canada. My goal by next summer is to own a road bike. I have gotten sized at a local bike shop so I know that my ideal size would be a 48 (cm) but could go up to a 50 frame. Does anyone have any tips or tricks for buying a road bike?
Please share!
Please share!
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Replies
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Welcome Sarah!
What kind of riding do you want to do?
You also need to budget for some gear, a short list:
Helmet
Headlight
Tail light
Gloves
Cycling shorts
Jersey
Tool kit
Cycling shoes
On the bike, how much do you want to spend?
If you can get a used bike you can save a LOT of money, as you are starting out, a super cool spanking new lighter than air bike is NOT what you need, it may be what you want, but not need :bigsmile:
Even a ten year old bike, tuned up will stand you very well for a LOT of riding.
The whole idea of a "Bike" is a bit misleading, really there are three parts of a bike, the frame, the wheels, and the components.
The Frame, basically you have four materials to choose from:
Steel < classic, durable, often good steel frames are a bit more supple without being soft, nice riding, but can be a bit heavier (which really is NOT an issue when you start out)
Aluminum < won't rust! often oversized tubes and can be very harsh to ride, but are very strong, very stiff, which can be good for certain types of riding.
Carbon Fiber < Lightweight, stupid lightweight is possible, the characteristics of these frames are basically whatever the builder decides, depending on how the CF is laid up and how much is laid up etc. One thing is they can be damaged easily and are not really repairable.
Titanium < combines all the best characteristics of steel and aluminum etc, very nice stuff, can be build to make a racing bike or a long distance touring bike, does not rust, and is just about indestructible. Nice stuff, but pricey.
All of the above information are generalizations, I've seen super supple easy riding aluminum frames and super stiff harsh steel frames.
Not much help eh? :laugh:
I really think that too many people buy Hybrid bikes, when they need a road bike, a road bike is better designed for the road, a hybrid is often not nearly as comfortable, as you are stuck in one hand position, with a road bike with road bars, you can move your hands around, which on a long ride is more comfortable.
Wheels
Of course nice light wheels are great, they spin up faster and are just nicer to ride, but they cost money, you want a good balance of durability and lightweight, your bike shop should be able to tell you what is a good combo in your area.
Components
About 90% or more of the market is Shimano, I imagine that is what you will be looking for.
Buying used you will often get much better components at a lower price, better components are just simply nicer, they shift nicer they work better and they last longer too.
If you buy used you will most likely have to replace some things, tyres, tubes, brake pads, and chain. These are maintenance items and will need replacing on your bike as they wear out, if the bike is old or new.
Clothing
Shoes, if you feet are happy, you are happy :drinker: I really like the Shimano SPD shoes, they have a cleat on the bottom that you can use with clipless pedals (once you get to that point in your riding) but in the mean time, they are good shoes that are comfortable, but have a nice stiff sole, good for power transfer.
Gloves, again, if you fingers are happy, you are happy! Cold fingers suck! In the warmer months, you should still wear gloves, they will keep your hands comfortable for a longer time, and if you ever come off the bike, you will almost for sure land on your hands, while you might skin a knee or elbow, if you mess up your hands it sucks, I know I could not work if I skinned my hands! :noway:
Helmet < get a cool one, wear it, always, we like having you around :flowerforyou:
Cycling shorts < listen, if you ride more than 20 minutes our parts down there will really appreciate a set of padded cycling shorts, trust me! The pad certainly helps, but is is also made of a material that wicks the sweat away from your groin, if you wear cotton undies or such, the sweat just sits there, and a wet groin is not my idea of fun :laugh:
Cycling Jersey < at some point buy one, the three pockets on the back are really useful for carrying stuff, and they just simply fit better while on the bike, again the fabric wicks sweat away!
Lights < even if you ride only at dusk, you should have lights on your bike.
Tool Kit < you need only the basics, enough to change a flat tire, a spare tube, patch kit, tire levers and a pump. My pump is a small one that is attached to the bike, and the tool kit is in a small bag under the seat.
The other thing to find is a good bike shop, some on you can build a relationship with, support the local business as much as you can, which is a good argument for buying a new bike. When I look at bike shops, I take a look at their service or tech area, compared to their sales area, the ratio should NOT be 10:1 or 20:1 it should be less than that, you want to see guys working on bikes in there regular like (maybe not so much in the winter!). I try to buy something, even if it only a powerbar, each time I go in for some info or advice if I'm not getting a part. They are a business and need to do business and will appreciate you business, if they are any good.
You have started off correctly getting your idea bike frame size and asking questions, I hope I've not bored you :bigsmile:
Please keep the questions coming! :drinker:
Cheers!0 -
One more thing that I forgot to mention, if you buy new, make sure the frame is a good quality frame, the components can be upgraded as they wear out and are replaced. I've got a 23 year old Cannondale MTB that the only original parts are the frame, and the cranks, and the rear U-brakes, everything else has be replaces, some parts many times over, I'm on my 4th set of wheels for example.
Cheers!0 -
Hi Sarah
Road bikes are awesome... nice choice
Some great points and just about everything (and more) has been covered in the previous post! I would say that you should pick a budget and stick to it. Very easy to push up to the next model in the range and be swayed by bike shop staff. Sizing and fit is very important and all bikes are different, so you might be a 48 in one bike and a 52 in another, depending on geometry. Don't get too hung up on the sizes you THINK you should be - just test ride several bikes from the shop and go with the most comforatable one. You should 'just know' when you are on the one that fits right ;-)
Don't discount SRAM gearing, as an alternative to Shimano - it's really light and responsive. Shimano is super smooth and solid when you are at 105 level or above (even the new style 10 spd Tiagra, is most likely as smooth). I would personally avoid Campagnolo, as the interchangability (with Shimano & SRAM) of rear wheels, cassettes etc. can be an issue and it's also not as smooth or solid as the others. (Attention, Campag fans: yes, I have had a Campag equipped bike and base my opinion on experience ;-) )
Wouldn't worry about upgrades just yet but if you do fancy it, I would suggest upgrading in this order:
Tyres
Wheels
Anything else
Above all - whatever you choose you will love, I am sure. Hope you find the right bike and get a lot of fun miles done, next year!0 -
Hi Sarah,
Between what Stu and SittingDuck said, I can hardly think of what more to add. Super comprehensive advice! Here's just a few more thoughts:
Join a club: For years I rode on my own, or with a small group of friends. Joining a bike club has changed my riding and expanded my whole view of cycling. If not for anything else, just discovering new routes in my area. But it is far more than that. I recommend it!
Bike computer: When you start riding a lot, you may wish to track your miles, types of rides, etc. in a diary. So for that a really good bike computer is necessary. There are apps you can use on a smart phone, but I also like to have a computer that is attached to the bike. And I like the wireless kind. I have a CatEye Strada wireless on each of my bikes, they vary in price and features but can be found for under 50 dollars.
Professional bike fit: The only other possible thing I can think of is, once you have gotten a bike and ridden it for a bit, maybe about 500 miles, and if you go with clipless pedals and shoes with cleats (which you may likely want to do after a time), you also may wish to consider going to see a specialist who can provide what is called a "bike fit." This is a person who is trained to measure you, set you and your bike on a trainer, thoroughly watch you and diagnose your style, and make minute adjustments to your position, things like seat height and angle, stem and bars, cleat adjustments, etc. I waited years to do that, but once I did I was stunned at how much more comfortable and better my rides were! It pays to do a little investigation and ask around to find a really good person certified in it. The guys at my local bike shop are all experts, and they did a good job of getting me initially set up on the bikes I have bought from them, but it is nothing like a professional bike fit.
Have fun, be safe and keep the rubber side down!0 -
Sarah, you are in for so much fun! :happy:About 90% or more of the market is Shimano, I imagine that is what you will be looking for.
I don't think this is true anymore. At least half of the road/cyclocross crowd I hang with are on bikes equipped with SRAM...probably closer to 2/3, really. My first bike had Shimano 105...I never liked it. It wasn't intuitive for me and I was forever dropping chains (frequently while just pedaling along a straight area and not shifting). I think in 4k miles (between my road and CX bikes) I've had one dropped chain. The 105 was a triple and my SRAMs are both compact doubles, so that likely played a role, but I've just generally found SRAM to be more user-friendly. YMMV.0 -
The most essential thing for a new cyclist is a good LBS (local bike shop) - find one that the local road riders frequent - chances are it's not the fancy boutique places, or the one that's a section of a car accessories warehouse. When you've found one (or more than one if you're lucky) give them a call - ask what day they're not usually busy - and go down there that day, have a chat with them - tell them the kind of riding you fancy doing, and have a strong idea of your total budget. Then tell them that figure less about 20% as there'll allways be options just outside budget that may be slightly more suitable. That way, you can appear to be "not cheap" and "serious about getting the right kit", and still stay on budget.
A good LBS will take the time to find what you really need, and measure you up for a bike that will fit - including swapping saddles/stems/bars for a better fit if needed at the difference in cost from standard to the custom. They should also ensure that the bike you get has been fully serviced/tuned before you take delivery.
Last bike I bought "built up" from my LBS was taken into the workshop and the hubs and bottom bracket were dismantled, cleaned, re-greased and adjusted. The gears were set up to shift sweetly, and the brakes were aligned and tweaked to perfection. This took the best part of an afternoon - and as I returned late afternoon to pay the bill and collect the bike, the Owner of the shop Gary took me into the shop, sat me down with a coffee and a muffin, and said "I'm sorry Mark, it'll be another 15 minutes or so - I looked at the wheels and they weren't good enough - i've re-tuned the front wheel - but, knowing it was for you, I've rebuilt the back wheel with better, heavier grade spokes, otherwise you'd be back again in a week with the wheel like a pretzl...
He then turned to his truing jig and spent 10 minutes tweaking until the back wheel was perfect - de-stressed the wheel - re-tweaked, de-stressed again - and finally straightened again. Only when he'd seen the entire bike was assembled perfectly, including the seat height being at the perfect height, saddle-bar spacing correct, saddle to bar drop perfect, and that everything was right did he let me wheel the bike out and ride around the block for a mile or so. When I came back, with a grin from ear to ear, we shook hands, and I paid the (not inconsiderable) bill. THAT's a LBS - and I really hope everyone can be lucky enough to find a place like that.
Of course - it doesn't HURT that Gary and I were actually "saturday lads" at the same bike shop when I was 15 years old... His shop is a fantastic place, for advice and getting your hands on "exotica" - he'll admit that he can't compete with the big internet suppliers for basic components (shimano/campagnolo gears etc) - but - when I was wondering how to get my training setup "calibrated", it was Gary that went into the back room, and removed HIS OWN Powertap SL+ back wheel, and said "use this for a couple of days - there's manuals on the internet, and you've got a garmin 705 - any problems give me a call!" You don't get that kind of service from a internet parts outlet.0 -
Sarah Sarah Sarah, Welcome Welcome. Oh and welcome too cold weather riding. I am from Minnesota. Stu and others gave you some pretty good information. Don't be afraid to ask more questions as you go. Get a budget first and find a good Local Bike Shop.0
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Great advice above.
Would add warrantee. If you get new, especially fiber, might be worth new. Most frames come with lifetime warrantee to the original owner. Since I have had my carbon fiber frame replaced twice, I consider it worth it.
Yet, I just bought a used 520 touring. It is steel frame and should last as long as I don't crash it. And, a crashed bike does not come under warrantee anyways.0 -
mmmmmmm SRAM ... can i has red please?0
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Sarah, you are in for so much fun! :happy:About 90% or more of the market is Shimano, I imagine that is what you will be looking for.
I don't think this is true anymore. At least half of the road/cyclocross crowd I hang with are on bikes equipped with SRAM...probably closer to 2/3, really. My first bike had Shimano 105...I never liked it. It wasn't intuitive for me and I was forever dropping chains (frequently while just pedaling along a straight area and not shifting). I think in 4k miles (between my road and CX bikes) I've had one dropped chain. The 105 was a triple and my SRAMs are both compact doubles, so that likely played a role, but I've just generally found SRAM to be more user-friendly. YMMV.
Well, I am in Japan you know :bigsmile:0 -
It's strange that, when I lived near Turin and Milan, there were an awful high proportion of serious bikes with full Campag Kit as well
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Sarah, you are in for so much fun! :happy:About 90% or more of the market is Shimano, I imagine that is what you will be looking for.
I don't think this is true anymore. At least half of the road/cyclocross crowd I hang with are on bikes equipped with SRAM...probably closer to 2/3, really. My first bike had Shimano 105...I never liked it. It wasn't intuitive for me and I was forever dropping chains (frequently while just pedaling along a straight area and not shifting). I think in 4k miles (between my road and CX bikes) I've had one dropped chain. The 105 was a triple and my SRAMs are both compact doubles, so that likely played a role, but I've just generally found SRAM to be more user-friendly. YMMV.
Well, I am in Japan you know :bigsmile:
Ha, and I'm in the Midwest. I think SRAM is a Chicago-based company. I'm sure that plays a big role.0 -
As a woman I would add...Be sure you opt for a bike fit. I started on a bike that I wasn't fit to and had a bevy of problems that ultimately ended up with me getting rid of the bike.
SRAM shifters seem easier for smaller fingers (I traded my dura ace for SRAM and love them!).
Spend the money on a good frame. You can always upgrade parts (wheels, drivetrain) later as you have more money and if you get into the sport. Look for a frame that's relatively light and well built. Consider the type of riding you want to do, as this will effect the frame's angles and how the bike rides.0 -
Everyone here has given you SUCH good advice, so maybe I can add some reading material? Oh, and most LBS (local bike shops) have weekly group rides that you can get in on. My city has 3 women's cycling clubs, numerous cycling teams, and dozens of bike shops that host weekly rides. That will get you into the lingo.
The cycling world has its own heartbeat, and you will quickly learn the ropes But, here's the reading list:
Joe Friel-- The Cyclists Training bible (I have worked with a coach for over a year now, and this book really helped me understand what it was my coach was trying to do. He really explained periodization, and workout intensities)
Smart Cycling: Successful training and racing for riders of all levels by Arnie Baker
Every Woman's Guide to Cycling: Everything you need to know from buying your first bike, to winning your first race by Selene Yeager (This bike may be PERFECT for you right now since you are just starting out! When I bought it, I had already been cyclling for a few months and found it to be things that I already knew)
(I haven't read this, but a few of my teammates have, and loved it) It's Not About the Bike: My Journey Back to Life by Lance Armstrong
Inside the Tour de France: The Pictures, the Legends, and the Untold Stories of the World's Most Beloved Bicycle Race by Eric Delanzy
Enjoy!!!!0
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