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Decision Time - Trek 1.2 or Trek 1.5 (2013 Models)
MDLNH
Posts: 587 Member
So it's basically come down to these 2 bikes: Trek 1.2 or Trek 1.5 (2013 Models).
One of these bikes will become my 1st "official" road bike. I know there are many choices out there, but my available funds are limited. I am currently riding a Trek MTB (3500) and I use it with my family, so I don't want to give it up or trade it in just yet. I can also get a good deal/price from my LBS due to it's affiliation w/ my Tri-Club.
So far, beside the color scheme and a 10th gear (*an extra $150) for the Trek 1.5, I do not see much of a difference. Also, does anyone think the optional 3rd front crank would be worth it ?
Thanks in advance for any feedback and/or comments . . .
Mark
One of these bikes will become my 1st "official" road bike. I know there are many choices out there, but my available funds are limited. I am currently riding a Trek MTB (3500) and I use it with my family, so I don't want to give it up or trade it in just yet. I can also get a good deal/price from my LBS due to it's affiliation w/ my Tri-Club.
So far, beside the color scheme and a 10th gear (*an extra $150) for the Trek 1.5, I do not see much of a difference. Also, does anyone think the optional 3rd front crank would be worth it ?
Thanks in advance for any feedback and/or comments . . .
Mark
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The biggest difference I see is the shifters. The Tiagra shifters are a little better than than the Sora. I personally don't like the little thumb shifter on the side of the Sora. The 10 vs 9 cassette really won't be a big difference. The third front crank will come in real handy if you live in, or will be riding in a mountainous area. For the money, I'd go with the 1.5.0
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It's not just one more gear in the more expensive model, it's better quality in all the parts - the gear shifters, the gears, the chain, the brakes, even better tyres. I would go for the better model personally.0
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I've always wondered, if it is better to build a bike bespoke to the requirements you need? Sometimes you can get things cheaper and build up the bike you want over a period of time?
If building isn't an option (and it's not for some, personally, I can't afford not to!), then go for the best you can afford.
I am always surprised to see a 3rd chainset on a road bike. Normally a 42/53 is sufficient for most rides, perhaps at 38/52, but on the back having an appropriate block, 12-23, or straight block. Unless you're climbing silly mountains. In which case, go for it!0 -
:noway: Most common road cranksets are either 54/39 or 50/34. I think the 50/34 with a 12-25 or 11-28 cassette is a good choice unless you're racing, because you can get up pretty much any paved hill on that.I am always surprised to see a 3rd chainset on a road bike. Normally a 42/53 is sufficient for most rides, perhaps at 38/52, but on the back having an appropriate block, 12-23, or straight block. Unless you're climbing silly mountains. In which case, go for it!0
This discussion has been closed.