Annoying loud creaking coming from my front chainrings

m1xm0d3
m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
I think I have a bigger issue here that I will address very soon but over the past few days my bike has developed a creaking sound coming from the chain rings, crank or pedals.

When I stand and pedal under stress, it goes away.

I don't believe it's the pedals because I took them off and do not notice any signs of damage or wear or any chatter in the bearings.

I just had the bike in the shop for a tune up just over a month ago and I've put about 300 miles on it since then.

Any ideas what I can do to fix it or at least eliminate some of the guessing? This is my daily commuter to work and back so as much as I need the bike to function, I also NEED it for work.

2012 Diamondback Overdrive Sport - 3 chainring front.
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Replies

  • TheBrolympus
    TheBrolympus Posts: 586 Member
    It's probably the bottom bracket. You can try to pull the crank and BB, clean everything up, grease, and reassemble to see if that fixes it.

    I have fought a creaking and squeaking BB with my SS for a while now.
  • jacksonpt
    jacksonpt Posts: 10,413 Member
    When you stand it goes away, but you notice it when pedaling while seated?

    Could it be coming from the seatpost/saddle? That's a nagging issue for me on both my mtn bikes.

    if that's not it, I also would suspect the BB. Could be worn, or might just be dirty.
  • Archon2
    Archon2 Posts: 462 Member
    Could also be the bolts that hold on your chain rings. I had one that worked a bit loose and there was a persistent creaking from it. I'd check that, the pedals too, before servicing the BB!

    Oh, and maybe you have a loose cleat on a shoe. That can pop or creak too.
  • TheBrolympus
    TheBrolympus Posts: 586 Member
    Oh, and maybe you have a loose cleat on a shoe. That can pop or creak too.

    I lost a bolt in one of my cleats while on a MTB ride once and couldn't get my right foot unclipped. Resulted in a lot of laughs from my brothers.
  • allaboutthecake
    allaboutthecake Posts: 1,535 Member
    I have a creaking bike, too. Had a tuneup about 800mi ago....stopped in LBS they recommended tightening up the cables a bit. Apparently the cables can stretch & make too much noise.



    *LBS = sounds kinky, but really it stands for Local Bike Shop.


    (note to self: remember to bring em cookies)
  • veloman21
    veloman21 Posts: 418 Member
    I agree with Jacksonpt, if the problem goes away when you stand, it could well be the seat post. I know that sounds odd but I've had it happen and I swore the noise was coming from the BB. Several attempts at dismantling, cleaning re-lubing, proper torquing did not help.

    Following the wisdom of Mr. Holmes, I looked elsewhere. Sure enough when I pulled the seat post it was dry as a bone. I applied some of carbon lube/paste and the noise disappeared immediately.
  • patrickblo13
    patrickblo13 Posts: 831 Member
    I have had this issue. Once it was a loose BB and another time the bolts that hold the chain ring on were loose. I would start there.

    I have also experience creaking noise from my seat post. I have broken 3 saddle rails in the past, I must beat the **** out of my seat
  • SingingSingleTracker
    SingingSingleTracker Posts: 1,866 Member
    I think I have a bigger issue here that I will address very soon but over the past few days my bike has developed a creaking sound coming from the chain rings, crank or pedals.

    When I stand and pedal under stress, it goes away.

    I don't believe it's the pedals because I took them off and do not notice any signs of damage or wear or any chatter in the bearings.

    I just had the bike in the shop for a tune up just over a month ago and I've put about 300 miles on it since then.

    Any ideas what I can do to fix it or at least eliminate some of the guessing? This is my daily commuter to work and back so as much as I need the bike to function, I also NEED it for work.

    2012 Diamondback Overdrive Sport - 3 chainring front.

    Grease is needed on all contact points (BB, pedal spindles, seatpost, saddle/rail bolts, etc...) Blue Loctite should be used on the chainring bolts. Disassemble everything, lube it up, and reassemble. All should be good. It should be an annual maintenance routine, and more often if you have ridden in rain, or washed your bike (water is bad for a bike).
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    Thanks for the responses everyone. I also noticed the creaking seat post. Funny thing is sound really does travel on this aluminum frame. I dropped the post down a half inch and it went away. I know there is no lube or anything in the post tube so I will check it again.
    I got the bike last June and have since rode just under 2,500 miles on it. Still running on the same original components. Last tune up the LBS said I need a new chain (stretch), new middle chainring and rear cassette (both worn) but the bike had rode fine for me. No skipping or anything so I declined the work.
    There is also a click that I can FEEL through the pedal on the right side, 3 o'clock, every revolution. I am fairly mechanical savvy but unfortunately I don't have any bike tools except for some allen wrenches. I don't use cleats, only the strappy stirrups. I did check the bolts on the chainring and they were very tight.

    Looks like I am going to have to invest some $$$ in some new parts.
  • patrickblo13
    patrickblo13 Posts: 831 Member
    More and more it sounds like a BB issue. I would have your LBS look at it
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    More and more it sounds like a BB issue. I would have your LBS look at it

    The more I think about it, the more annoyed I am. Like I said earlier, I just had the bike serviced a month ago and it included these services, including BB r&r. (I got the premium service)

    BASIC SERVICE - $49.99
    -Inspect and inflate tires
    -Inspect and wipe down frame
    -Adjust brake cables
    -Adjust derailleur cables
    -Adjust headset
    -Check crank arms for proper torque and function
    -Clean and grease seat post
    -Inspect chain for wear and lubricate
    -NOTE: All additional parts are extra, labor is included in the price of the tune up.


    PREMIUM SERVICE - $89.99 (most popular)
    -Include everything in the Basic Service
    -Bleed brakes, if applicable
    -Adjust/repack hubs
    -True wheels
    -Remove and reinstall bottom bracket for proper adjustment and function
    -NOTE: All additional parts are extra, labor is included in the price of the tune up
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    Soooo I found this yesterday. It must have been there over the past week (when the noise started). I have no idea how that happened. I keep my seat high but within the marks shown on the post. It's like I had been pushing hard off the handlebars, which I don't do. I hope my Diamondback frame warranty covers this. But in the event that it doesn't. do you think JB Weld would be a good option to make it safe and stable once again?

    Totally bummed. And I still have the 3 o'clock click on my pedal. :(

    6f078c9b8490099b61135ac5552f208ceecc.jpg
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    I am also exploring tig weld fabrication shops.
  • TheBigYin
    TheBigYin Posts: 5,686 Member
    Warranty replacement or buy another frame and swap it. Don't even THINK about re-welding or holding it together with jb-weld (I assume thats some form of metalised epoxy stuff)

    It's scrap.
  • jacksonpt
    jacksonpt Posts: 10,413 Member
    Warranty replacement or buy another frame and swap it. Don't even THINK about re-welding or holding it together with jb-weld (I assume thats some form of metalised epoxy stuff)

    It's scrap.

    Agreed.
  • Archon2
    Archon2 Posts: 462 Member
    Wow, that sucks. I agree...the frame is ruined.

    One thing about the seatpost to remember. It may have a max-height line, but regardless of that you should have the end of the post below all the weld lines in the tube.
  • lpherman01
    lpherman01 Posts: 212 Member
    Wow, that sucks. I agree...the frame is ruined.

    One thing about the seatpost to remember. It may have a max-height line, but regardless of that you should have the end of the post below all the weld lines in the tube.
    Well put. FYI the minimum insertion markings is for the strength of the seat post, and as you have found out, on the frame it may not be enough. Your seat post should always extend down inside to the bottom of the top tube. if your frame has a tall seat post neck, it may mean quite a bit below the minimum insertion markings.
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    This sucks... I have zero $$$ to invest in another frame. With 2,500 miles rode in 10 months, simply put, this bike is my life. It's what I use to commute to work every damn day weather permits and my only form of exercise. (running it not an option, terrible knees & ankles)

    The welder I spoke to said he could fill in the crack then weld on a sleeve (Possibly steel) around the affected area to help reinforce it. Is that still not an option?

    I am taking it in tonight to the local dealer and hope they honor their warranty. But reading the terms, it doesn't cover the labor to swap out all of the components. I have no idea how much that will cost and it's surely something I cannot do myself.
  • cloggsy71
    cloggsy71 Posts: 2,208 Member
    Why would they not honour the warranty?

    It is obviously a manufacturing fault... The frame should be replaced and everything swapped over as part of the warranty replacement!

    Stick to your guns!
  • jacksonpt
    jacksonpt Posts: 10,413 Member
    If it's only 10 months old, I'd fight pretty hard to get it replaced. Hopefully your dealer/lbs will go to bat for you and get things taken care of.
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    10 months riding I mean (I didn't ride between Nov-Mar)... The bike was bought in June 2013. Here is what the warranty terms are.

    Alloy bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝, or 700c wheels Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
    Labor, frame replacement One year from the date of original retail purchase


    I assume that means I will have to pay the labor.
  • TheBrolympus
    TheBrolympus Posts: 586 Member
    10 months riding I mean (I didn't ride between Nov-Mar)... The bike was bought in June 2013. Here is what the warranty terms are.

    Alloy bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝, or 700c wheels Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
    Labor, frame replacement One year from the date of original retail purchase


    I assume that means I will have to pay the labor.

    Most major manufacturers replace frames without much problem. Usually the labor is just the time it takes the bike shop to move the fork and components to the new frame.

    It's going to take some time to get the new frame. It took Trek 6 weeks to be me a new frame last time I broke mine and my brother broke his second Gary Fisher frame last year and it took about 4-5 week to get his.

    edited to remove a question that was already answered above.
  • patrickblo13
    patrickblo13 Posts: 831 Member
    10 months riding I mean (I didn't ride between Nov-Mar)... The bike was bought in June 2013. Here is what the warranty terms are.

    Alloy bicycle frames with 20˝, 24˝, 26˝, or 700c wheels Lifetime, for as long as the original retail purchaser owns the bicycle*
    Labor, frame replacement One year from the date of original retail purchase


    I assume that means I will have to pay the labor.

    It sounds that way but a good bike shop would either waive labor charge or at least give a reduced price. If they don't I would look for a new bike shop for future purchases
  • TheBigYin
    TheBigYin Posts: 5,686 Member
    While you're waiting for the frame to be replaced, call around at the bike shop for a chat, take donuts/cake with you, and get on the good side of the mechanics... Seriously, a like for like swap is about a hours work for a half decent mechanic... if you're seen as "a good guy" they'll waive the rebuild fee, providing they can fit the job in to suit their time frame. And if they don't, go elsewhere next time, because they're a bunch of *kitten*.
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    I am probably boned because I bought the bike from Amazon (credit line). Assembled myself then had it inspected and adjusted at my LBS prior to the maiden voyage. That LBS (along with the other 2 shops I have had tune ups done since then) are not Diamondback dealers and my thinking is that most LBS's that have to do a warranty claim for a bike they didn't sell will do me no favors. Maybe even thwart the process (Pessimistic much? More like a realist!) D1CKS Sporting Goods is where I planned to take it but nationwide chains like that rarely do the same but I at least hope they don't have a chip on their shoulder. And I am a big guy. 6' 7" and 275lbs so I could see that being a factor in the shop 'finding a cause' to the frame damage. In all I've probably rode the bike off road maybe 100 miles, if even that. For an MTB, this bike has been pampered with smooth paved street rides.

    Man this sucks. I have a week long vacation to the Outer Banks of NC planned for the 2nd week in Sept and I absolutely planned to bring my bike along for some beautiful rides along the coast. So it sounds like even with the warranty honored, I wouldn't have the bike back before then.

    I bought the MTB with commuting in mind while also wanting the option to hit the trails without issue. Maybe it's time to consider asking Amazon for a credit line increase and look in to getting a road bike. To which I have zero knowledge about.

    I appreciate everyone input, I really do. Thanks!
  • Mr_Knight
    Mr_Knight Posts: 9,532 Member
    Had a similar issue.

    Then I realized the creaking wasn't coming from the chainrings, it was coming from my knees. :tongue:
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    Hahahaha ^^^^ in a silent room, if I do the squat pose real slow you can hear someone eating celery.... knee gravel.
  • Jakess1971
    Jakess1971 Posts: 1,208 Member
    Feel for you on this one, gutting to see a crack like that, I always say if the frame is sound everything else is fixable, defo a warranty thing and wish you luck, I would absolutely hammer them on the 'fit for purpose' clause in todays standards, not only has it failed badly but also caused you a lot of grief, as you said it's your life.

    As for the click you get in the crank or any squeak etc before you consider replacing parts get well versed in taking the crank, holding bolts pedals etc apart and grease, grease and grease a bit more! Forget using a LBS and get well versed in doing this yourself and do it often, being in control of these little irritations will save you a fortune and you'll get a thrill from keeping the bike well maintained

    Good luck!
  • m1xm0d3
    m1xm0d3 Posts: 1,576 Member
    Feel for you on this one, gutting to see a crack like that, I always say if the frame is sound everything else is fixable, defo a warranty thing and wish you luck, I would absolutely hammer them on the 'fit for purpose' clause in todays standards, not only has it failed badly but also caused you a lot of grief, as you said it's your life.

    As for the click you get in the crank or any squeak etc before you consider replacing parts get well versed in taking the crank, holding bolts pedals etc apart and grease, grease and grease a bit more! Forget using a LBS and get well versed in doing this yourself and do it often, being in control of these little irritations will save you a fortune and you'll get a thrill from keeping the bike well maintained

    Good luck!

    That's great info man. Thanks a bunch for the well wishes. I seriously need to invest in a bike repair manual and some of the tools.
  • cloggsy71
    cloggsy71 Posts: 2,208 Member
    Any news on this? Are they going to repair it for you?