Tell me what is under your saddle.....
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Let's see, patch kit, tire levers, miniature crescent wrench, Allen wrenches, presta valve adapters, chain tool, keys.0
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On the road, I have a small saddlebag with:
1 spare tube
1 tiny patch kit
1 compact bike multi-tool kit (all the basics)
1 KMC Missing Link (needed it once when chain broke)
1 small energy bar or granola bar
1 cell phone (sometimes this goes in jersey pocket)
1 pair of tire levers
1 Lithium Ion battery pack for headlight when needed
$10 to $20 in paper bills
House keys
Road bike has rear light blinker and headlight, as well as two bottle cages with water, and one mini-pump that mounts to water bottle cage.
Mountain bike I nix the saddlebag and go with Camelback Rogue. It contains what I put in the road bike bag, plus:
1 small bottle 100% DEET (we have lots of ticks & mosquitoes around here)
5 band-aids
1 small ziploc bag for phone
1 ziplock bag with 4-5 baby wipes (to clean out cuts/whatever)
5 ibuprofen tablets
1 small roll electrical tape
2 CO2 cartridges
1 CO2 inflator head
2 rubber bands
1 bladder with up to 70oz water (when cool, I skip this and rely on bottles)
Car keys & House keys
On the frame I have 1-2 bottles of water or sometimes Gatoraide0 -
two tubes, multi tool, co2 pump and two cartridges, patch kit, $200
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I'm another minimalist. Additionally, I hate the velcro seatpost band that most seat bags come with. Whether we know it or not, most of us are having our expensive bib shorts damaged by rubbing against that stupid velcro strap. That being a pet-peeve of mine, I tend to go with small bags that don't have one.
On the road bike:
Small Banjo Brothers bag with 2 Park tire levers, a spare tube, CO2 inflator, 2 CO2 cartridges, and a $20 bill. The jersey pocket has Gu Gels, cell phone, Speedplay cleat covers, Clif Bars, etc. Wrist has a road ID.
'cross bike, in Non-race configuration:
Small Leyzne bag with the same stuff as above.
TT bike:
Specialized Wing attached to my Sitero saddle. The Wing carries two CO2 cartridges on one side and a Lezyne Pressure Drive combo hand pump and CO2 inflator. A spare tube with valve extender lives in my jersey pocket.
MTB:
Basically the same stuff as the road bike, but it all lives in the camelbak instead of a seat bag.0 -
fast bike, strong legs0
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Everything goes in a small backpack-
I don't waste time wih in field patches, just throw a new tube on.
I'm more geared toward wilderness/backwoods riding as I live in get lost and turn right and may not see anyone for days in the wilderness. I just added a take down .22 in addition to my sidearm.
tube
lever
pump
bladder
water filter
emergency blanket
knive
striker
gu/clif bars
spare magazines topped with ammo .45acp and .22lr
multitool
duct tape
t.p.
instant sanitizer
paracord
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I have a little "bikey bag" attached under my saddle. In it, I keep the multi-hex wrench tool, my cell-phone, electrical tape, money ($5-$10), and chap stick. My bike frame has 2 cages for water bottles. I use one bottle to hold my flat kit, which consists of: a spare tube, the c02 kit, 2 cylinders, a flat changing tool, and moist towelettes for after tire-changing clean-up. If I am going longer than 50 miles, I also take dried fruit and nuts in my saddle bag. I have pre-planned pit stops on my route for toilet breaks and to refill my water bottle usually about every 20-30 miles. I have an I.D. sticker in my helmet. A lot of bike shops provide free work-shops on how to change a flat. Time well worth spent. One season, I had 7 flats.....0
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Bikerchickmomma wrote: »...My bike frame has 2 cages for water bottles. I use one bottle to hold my flat kit, which consists of: a spare tube, the c02 kit, 2 cylinders, a flat changing tool, and moist towelettes for after tire-changing clean-up...
I've never thought of optionally using the second bottle for non-drink stuff! I'll have to try that if I can figure out some free refill spots on the routes I use.0 -
Must be heavy all that stuff plus a full size rifle, pistol, and extra magazines. What does your pack typically weight?Everything goes in a small backpack-I don't waste time wih in field patches, just throw a new tube on.
I'm more geared toward wilderness/backwoods riding as I live in get lost and turn right and may not see anyone for days in the wilderness. I just added a take down .22 in addition to my sidearm.
I took bear spray a couple times on long MTB rides and even then I didn't like the extra bulkiness and weight of the can in addition to my other essentials
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My sidearm is on me during waking hours anyways, so I don't count that. The two rifles I switch out are fairly lightweight, both are around 5lbs with extra ammo. The spare .45mag is the heaviest so I should dump it since if I can't take a predator advancing with my primary I'm not going to really have time to reload. My pack with water is under 10lbs, and one great thing in the Clearwater wilderness is water is abundant. Its a LOT more than what I carried in Nor Cal, but its nothing compared to going down in the Idaho wilderness without tools.0
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I'm another minimalist. Additionally, I hate the velcro seatpost band that most seat bags come with. Whether we know it or not, most of us are having our expensive bib shorts damaged by rubbing against that stupid velcro strap. That being a pet-peeve of mine, I tend to go with small bags that don't have one.
Maybe I'm missing something... but how are road shorts/bibs (i.e. tight fitting) rubbing on a velco strap about the seatpost???0 -
I'm another minimalist. Additionally, I hate the velcro seatpost band that most seat bags come with. Whether we know it or not, most of us are having our expensive bib shorts damaged by rubbing against that stupid velcro strap. That being a pet-peeve of mine, I tend to go with small bags that don't have one.
Maybe I'm missing something... but how are road shorts/bibs (i.e. tight fitting) rubbing on a velco strap about the seatpost???
Hah, I noticed the same issue that ntnuck describes. On the seat bag I have, there is a 1" wide velcro strap that wraps around the seatpost. On mine, there is an excess amount of strap that just sticks out a bit...and this is the part of the velcro that contains the little micro-hook things. Even though I never felt it, it must brush against my thigh a little, maybe when I'm up and out of the saddle on climbs and when the bike rocks back and forth some, and that light contact is enough to cause the Lycra to degrade. It did take me a while to "connect the dots," so to speak, and realize the culprit.
I just cut off the excess bit of strap and it seems to have solved the problem for me though.
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My sidearm is on me during waking hours anyways, so I don't count that. The two rifles I switch out are fairly lightweight, both are around 5lbs with extra ammo. The spare .45mag is the heaviest so I should dump it since if I can't take a predator advancing with my primary I'm not going to really have time to reload. My pack with water is under 10lbs, and one great thing in the Clearwater wilderness is water is abundant. Its a LOT more than what I carried in Nor Cal, but its nothing compared to going down in the Idaho wilderness without tools.
Well, I got to hand it to you, all the extra weight for the weapons would drive me crazy, but if it works for where you are then more power to you! Also, if you even happen to need it for defense or survival then I think the payoff is obviously going to be worth the cost.
Around where I am, the main wilderness animals that could be dangerous are timber rattlers, copperheads, and such, but their reaction is purely defensive so a gun isn't needed, you just need to watch where you are going. We also have plenty of black bears, but they usually have no interest in confrontation 99% of the time and just want to get away.
Edit: I forgot to mention the two-legged variety of predators, and I think avoiding bad areas of certain towns on my road bike is the way to stay out of trouble But I can also see why someone biking alone in the wilderness might want a sidearm for that reason as well.
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Maybe I'm missing something... but how are road shorts/bibs (i.e. tight fitting) rubbing on a velco strap about the seatpost???
My experience has been that upper thighs often touch or skim the seatpost during part of the pedal strock even when you don't realize it. This is, again in my experience, much less likely with TT/Tri bikes than road, and the likelihood of it happening on a road bike is affected by saddle position. Basically, the closer the seatpost is to the nose of your saddle the more likely you are to rub. As @Archon2 said, it doesn't take much contact at all between velcro and lycra to start wearing and damaging the lycra. Your leg may only touch the post or the very occasionally but if it happens even just here and there it'll be enough to start damaging your shorts or bibs. Pretty much all of my bibs showed at least a little bit of wear until I switched to "strapless" tail bags. Now all is good.
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My sidearm is on me during waking hours anyways, so I don't count that. The two rifles I switch out are fairly lightweight, both are around 5lbs with extra ammo. The spare .45mag is the heaviest so I should dump it since if I can't take a predator advancing with my primary I'm not going to really have time to reload. My pack with water is under 10lbs, and one great thing in the Clearwater wilderness is water is abundant. Its a LOT more than what I carried in Nor Cal, but its nothing compared to going down in the Idaho wilderness without tools.
Well, I got to hand it to you, all the extra weight for the weapons would drive me crazy, but if it works for where you are then more power to you! Also, if you even happen to need it for defense or survival then I think the payoff is obviously going to be worth the cost.
Around where I am, the main wilderness animals that could be dangerous are timber rattlers, copperheads, and such, but their reaction is purely defensive so a gun isn't needed, you just need to watch where you are going. We also have plenty of black bears, but they usually have no interest in confrontation 99% of the time and just want to get away.
Edit: I forgot to mention the two-legged variety of predators, and I think avoiding bad areas of certain towns on my road bike is the way to stay out of trouble But I can also see why someone biking alone in the wilderness might want a sidearm for that reason as well.
I understand the two-legged predators, I biked through Oakland for many years for work. Here we have reintroduced Canadian Timberwolves, that are Mammoth in size and aggressive, the mtn biker loving mt. lion, and 2 grizz were taken 4mi as the crow flies from my cabin, so during the fall I switch to an Alaskan .44. I'm more concerned if I camp out for the night as opposed to coming across a predator while riding, though the kitties do like mtn bikers, but when I ride in more populatdd areas without all the iron, I feel REALLY light!0 -
I keep it fairly simple and use a smaller sized bag on each bike. In them I have:
1 tube
1 tube patch kit (could get more than one flat)
1 tire patch strip (to fix a gash in the tire)
Bicycle multi-tool with a built-in chain breaker and tire lever
Missing link chain coupler
2 CO2 cartridges with canister OR a Topeak road morph pump on the bike (the best out there)
Small screw driver
I even have this on my wife's bike even though she can't change a tube, maybe someone else can.
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Tube
Levers
Co2
Swiss Army Knife
Spare cell phone battery
Few dollars0 -
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I've switched to a frame bag and/or handlebar ruksaks. If anything is under my saddle, it's my sleeping bag and clothes.0
lol
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