Running with dogs

melaniecheeks · December 2013

I have 2 dogs that have been running with me since they were old enough, and it is about starting with little bits and building up gradually. Also, get to know the dog's capability and preferences. My Weim is 6, will run long distances, but hates crowds. He uses a K9 bridle, which doesn't pull his neck.. So he comes with me on longish solo runs.

My cocker spaniel is 2, and much better behaved around people, She regularly runs with me on Saturday morning ParkRuns. I use a chest harness for that, and keep the lead short so she doesn't get in the way of other runners.

LoraF83 · December 2013

So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.

The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.

The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.

Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.

First of all, at a year old your dog is still growing and you don't want to push the speed or distance as it could have a negative effect on her.

Don't train her to run on a slip lead (choker). Get a Gentle Leader head collar. Much easier to use and much more effective. Harnesses won't work either because they actually encourage the dog to pull.

Start with short distances - a half a mile or so at a slow speed. Only run her 2-3 times a week. Increase your distance gradually, adding only a half mile per week at most.

After every run, check her paws. Look for raw or chaffed spots. I use paw wax on my dog's pads before every run. I learned the hard way that pavement can tear their pads up. The wax protects them and is completely safe.

Heal Halters can be difficult to fit on a Boxer. They can also cause cervical collar damage on a dog who is bouncing and pulling and remove any decision making on the dogs part. Plus if a dog hates it, good luck. Not a fan.

Harnesses with a front connection no NOT encourage pulling. Harnesses with a back attachment may.

Totally agree with the rest of the post, that's good advice.

Edited because I cannot seem to spell front correctly.

You're right - they can be hard to fit on a boxer. A harness may be better in that instance. I would still go with a Gentle Leader brand harness. Definitely not a cheap one from Walmart - they won't help the situation.

However, you can get around the dislike. The trick is to make wearing it a high-value experience for the dog. There's a dvd included in the box that explains this, but basically, you start by putting it on them during meals. The dog then associates the GL with food. Then, after several sessions, you work on short walks with lots of treats. Gradually, you increase your distance and decrease the food. It's not a fast process, but it's effective. My dog is trained to walk on a slack leash with a flat buckle collar, but I still prefer to run with him using a GL because it makes the situation safer for me. I would compare it to having a horse that will walk next to you, but still putting on a bridle and lead because it gives you more control.

And I also want to address the whole dominance things. Training is not about dominance. Dogs are opportunistic creatures. They do what is best for them in each and every situation. That's why correction/dominance based training works - the dog behaves in order to avoid the punishment. However, you can achieve the same results through reward based training. The dog will work for the reward. The benefit to this type of training is that you also form a bond of trust, rather than fear. My dogs willingly listen to me because they know that something good will happen to/for them if they do. They don't do it because they are afraid of me. And because I control the food and attention, they definitely know that I'm in charge. I've never had to hit them, choke them or scream at them to make that point either.

willrun4bagels · December 2013

I run with both of my dogs at the same time. One is a 55 pound pit bull, the other is a 25 pound mystery hound/spaniel mix. I have a coupler that I'll use occasionally - it keeps them running side by side and hooks on to each of their collars, and then I only have to worry about holding one leash. Sometimes I'll also just take two leashes and let one of them run on each side of me if I'm running somewhere without a lot of foot traffic.

The pit bull wears a martingale collar all the time, so no prong/choke collar on her, and the little dog has a serious pulling/choking himself problem when we pass something he likes, so I have him in a Cesar Milan harness that I got from Petco. They kind of look like two little sled dogs when I use the coupler, it's pretty funny actually.

The coupler also seems to keep them from pulling as much, and I don't get any of that crazy pulling side to side to smell stuff when they're hooked up together on the coupler. I imagine it would be kind of like being tied to someone else for a three-legged race, they annoy one another if they pull side to side, so they both run without going sideways at all. The coupler's also long enough that they can "switch" places without getting all tangled while we're running.

As for behavioral issues, the pit bull gets on fine with everyone (therapy dog FTW), but the little dog acts like a ferocious monster when we pass any other dogs. To tame the beast, I carry a few dog treats in my pocket while we run, and as soon as I see another dog, even if it's hundreds of feet away, I'll pull a treat out and distract the little dog with it while we run, so he's only focused on the treat and totally ignores the other dogs. He's very food motivated, so if you've got a dog that is not, that likely wouldn't work as well as it does for me.

Bonus to running with 80+ pounds of dog= no creepers try to talk to me if I'm out running by myself in a quiet area.

just_Jennie1 · December 2013

nm

geebusuk · December 2013

Bonus to running with 80+ pounds of dog= no creepers try to talk to me if I'm out running by myself in a quiet area.

Not that I have that problem, but been out running with mine and a friend's dog - 190lb of dog together.
Never tried running when I was looking after another friend's dog as well (270lb or so of dog in total) - but when walking through the predominately Pakistani area where I used to live, the streets would generally clear VERY quickly leaving me in a bubble of serenity!

MSeel1984 · December 2013

So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.

The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.

The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.

Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.

First of all, at a year old your dog is still growing and you don't want to push the speed or distance as it could have a negative effect on her.

Don't train her to run on a slip lead (choker). Get a Gentle Leader head collar. Much easier to use and much more effective. Harnesses won't work either because they actually encourage the dog to pull.

Start with short distances - a half a mile or so at a slow speed. Only run her 2-3 times a week. Increase your distance gradually, adding only a half mile per week at most.

After every run, check her paws. Look for raw or chaffed spots. I use paw wax on my dog's pads before every run. I learned the hard way that pavement can tear their pads up. The wax protects them and is completely safe.

Heal Halters can be difficult to fit on a Boxer. They can also cause cervical collar damage on a dog who is bouncing and pulling and remove any decision making on the dogs part. Plus if a dog hates it, good luck. Not a fan.

Harnesses with a front connection no NOT encourage pulling. Harnesses with a back attachment may.

Totally agree with the rest of the post, that's good advice.

Edited because I cannot seem to spell front correctly.

Well she did start out on a harness (front connector) and did pretty well on it, actually, but she outgrew it. I was going to get a new harness but our trainer advised a choker. It's the one that has fabric woven through it, not just a chain-that's what he told us to get. I may just get the harness after all-she did seem to pull less with it-I thought I was just not using the choker correctly.

the_dude00 · December 2013

You should take the dog running. If it doesn't work out you can always walk back. I take my dog for runs on occassion

Running with dogs

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