Recommendations for a new bike
john_not_typical
Posts: 44 Member
I’m looking for a new bike. My old FX2 is way beyond repair. I have some health issues, but my doctors are cool with me riding. I’m not looking for something fast and aggressive but something fun to ride with my family. I’m looking at a Verve or a new FX. There are not a lot of Specialized dealers around here. Any other idea in my less than $700 price range?
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Replies
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Really depends on how you will be riding. Brand wise, I'm partial to Specialized and Scott. As for bike type, I'm not really a big fan of hybrid type bikes, but everyone has their thing. For my family cruising or just cruising down to my local bistro or something I ride a Scott hardtail 29er, usually with the front shocks locked out...I also use it for my trail riding and relatively moderate mountain biking on my own. If I recall, my hardtail was around $700 or so. I like it because I can use it for multiple purposes...getting out on the trails or using it as my get around the township cruiser and family cruiser.
I also have a Specialized carbon road bike...it was around $3K though. I was pretty big into endurance riding for about 5 years, but these days it mostly stays on my indoor bike trainer and I primarily ride it with Zwift. It's just easier and more convenient to get up in the morning or get home from work and just hop on real quick and not have to load it up and drive anywhere. Occasionally I go out for a road ride, but most of my outdoor riding is on the weekend and I prefer hitting the trails these days when I have that opportunity.0 -
I'll not recommend any specific bike as I have friends in the industry and so am biased. I will say that buying direct online can be a bit of a crap shoot and don't recommend it for anyone who is not already an enthusiast. Buy from a local shop if you can.
Buying a bike is not unlike buying a pair of shoes. At $700 a lot of companies will be offering bikes that are very much alike so far as the parts mix. Still, if you go out and test ride everything you can, there is one that will be more comfortable to you than the others.
edit...define "way beyond repair"1 -
I am already an avid biker. Done tons of metric centuries. Two different bike shops gave me an estimate of $500 dollars to fix it. They say the drivetrain needs to be completely replaced and I believe them. l am an engineer that fixes most things but the bike is done unless I invest the money in parts and I don’t have the time to fix it myself.‘I want to spend that time riding.1
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I find that bikes up to about $1000 have pretty *kitten* components and are heavier than need to be. But we can't always increase budget. There's no point in recommending a bike that doesn't fit to your anatomy. Thus chose a bike on which you sit well. That means try them out in a shop, see how you sit. Also have a look at the components: not only those displaying the brand and type in HUGE letters but also those less visible. You'll likely find that components that really shout out their brand and type are a tiny bit better than those that are a wee bit more hidden. And likely less essential to the functioning of the bike. Avoid shock absorbers as a good set of shock absorbers costs $$$, and if a shock absorber on $700 bike was actually good, then the rest can only be *kitten*. Decide whether you're happy with the weight. Maybe consider a model from last year or the year before as you might be able to get a better bike for your money.0
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Thanks for the great advice everyone. I have a friend that owns a bike shop (500 miles away from me unfortunately) that told me to buy a Trek or a Specialized because everything else under $1000 will have poor components. I can’t buy a Specialized or a Scott since there are no dealers near me and I won’t buy a bike I can’t test drive first.
I never thought I’d buy a hybrid either but sometimes life happens. I do know that most of my doctors would be happy if I stayed on my stationary bike inside but I want to enjoy time out with my family sometimes.1 -
Actually, Specialized and Trek (and Scott as well) have poor components. Sure you can buy a bike with Tourney or Altus stuff (both the lowest of the lowest) but don't expect it to last for ages, and it won't be as smooth as something a bit more expensive. That's the thing to keep in mind.0
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If I had more to spend, which I could afford easily, what would you recommend?
Just asking to make an informed decision. And have to justify it to my wife…0 -
If the quality of the drive train / components is what's most important, you can wind up ahead if you overhaul the current bike. It's cheaper to buy the bears and stuff but not the frame and wheels etc. Depending how old your current frame is and what you're looking at it might be a little more complicated, but this can be worth while if the components are most important to you. Saying that based on comments in this thread.
Remember that weight really only matters on hills.0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway
) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires. 0 -
john_not_typical wrote: »I am already an avid biker. Done tons of metric centuries. Two different bike shops gave me an estimate of $500 dollars to fix it. They say the drivetrain needs to be completely replaced and I believe them. l am an engineer that fixes most things but the bike is done unless I invest the money in parts and I don’t have the time to fix it myself.‘I want to spend that time riding.
Why am I betting the chain totally wore out the cassette and rings, perhaps the derailler pulley wheels.
That shouldn't be $500 to fix - unless they are replacing the whole derailler, whole wheel with cassette, and whole crankset, and getting you a gold chain.
Which is overkill.
ETA - perhaps new wheel and crank bearings, and if wheels don't allow new cones/races, that would require new hubs. New bottom bracket, unless they are suggesting ceramic teflon something or other, still not that bad.
And if it really is all those items - lesson learned on the importance of maintenance hopefully.0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
"really only matters" is the operative there, meaning some minor difference on flats, but not much.
Acceleration yes, but how long is that?
https://ridefar.info/bike/cycling-speed/weight/
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NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
Physics doesn't require you to believe in it, gravity works the same no matter what people think. Your race bike is easier to ride because race bikes are designed to be fast which is another way of saying energy efficient. The tires make a profound difference in how fast you go and how much energy it takes, and how the bike feels and how well the brakes work. Differences in gearing between a racing road bike and hybrid change what speed is comfortable to maintain. A racing bike is more aerodynamic and puts the rider in a more aerodynamic position, small changes in CDA have a large effect as your speed increases. The difference of 3 kg makes about a 0.000000001 % difference in how much work is required to move them over the course of a flat ride. This is science and engineering that is very well understood at this point, you can look up the differences between the specific tires you use on each bike and see exactly what they contribute if you'd like to.0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
"really only matters" is the operative there, meaning some minor difference on flats, but not much.
Acceleration yes, but how long is that?
https://ridefar.info/bike/cycling-speed/weight/
An object in motion tends to remain in motion. Once you have the bike moving, keeping it moving on flat ground is not a matter of fighting gravity.0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
Physics doesn't require you to believe in it, gravity works the same no matter what people think. Your race bike is easier to ride because race bikes are designed to be fast which is another way of saying energy efficient. The tires make a profound difference in how fast you go and how much energy it takes, and how the bike feels and how well the brakes work. Differences in gearing between a racing road bike and hybrid change what speed is comfortable to maintain. A racing bike is more aerodynamic and puts the rider in a more aerodynamic position, small changes in CDA have a large effect as your speed increases. The difference of 3 kg makes about a 0.000000001 % difference in how much work is required to move them over the course of a flat ride. This is science and engineering that is very well understood at this point, you can look up the differences between the specific tires you use on each bike and see exactly what they contribute if you'd like to.
Damn, fell into the local perspective gap! I’ve never lived anywhere where I could cycle for even 5km without breaking and accelerating again. It’s a constant change in speed due to traffic, traffic lights, other cyclists, dog walkers on cycle paths, holes in the path, sharp curves or whatever. I’ve lived in many European countries. So I guess weight is important for me, but might not be for to. Yeah, being out and about on the race bikes means hands constantly on breaks. And changing break blocks a lot (it’s an older bike)0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
"really only matters" is the operative there, meaning some minor difference on flats, but not much.
Acceleration yes, but how long is that?
https://ridefar.info/bike/cycling-speed/weight/
An object in motion tends to remain in motion. Once you have the bike moving, keeping it moving on flat ground is not a matter of fighting gravity.
Yep - every blue moon I'll be able to use this nice pretty flat stretch of 2-3 mile long road, a light you can time, and a tail wind matching your speed - seems so effortless maxing out the gears.
Only negative is this only seems to be in the summer heat, and a bit of headwind would actually be welcomed.1 -
NorthCascades wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Remember that weight really only matters on hills.
I can't believe that. The sitting position and components on my everyday bike and race bike are quite similar (ok, one has MTB components, the other road bike components) but the weight differs by 4kg. I'll gladly cycle at a nice speed with the racebike that I won't manage on the everyday bike. Also, my energy is up much earlier with the everyday bike. Mind you, I'd not take the racebike over forest paths and tree roots (if I can help it anyway ) Ok, the tires also play a role of course, but I can't believe it's only tires.
Physics doesn't require you to believe in it, gravity works the same no matter what people think. Your race bike is easier to ride because race bikes are designed to be fast which is another way of saying energy efficient. The tires make a profound difference in how fast you go and how much energy it takes, and how the bike feels and how well the brakes work. Differences in gearing between a racing road bike and hybrid change what speed is comfortable to maintain. A racing bike is more aerodynamic and puts the rider in a more aerodynamic position, small changes in CDA have a large effect as your speed increases. The difference of 3 kg makes about a 0.000000001 % difference in how much work is required to move them over the course of a flat ride. This is science and engineering that is very well understood at this point, you can look up the differences between the specific tires you use on each bike and see exactly what they contribute if you'd like to.
Damn, fell into the local perspective gap! I’ve never lived anywhere where I could cycle for even 5km without breaking and accelerating again. It’s a constant change in speed due to traffic, traffic lights, other cyclists, dog walkers on cycle paths, holes in the path, sharp curves or whatever. I’ve lived in many European countries. So I guess weight is important for me, but might not be for to. Yeah, being out and about on the race bikes means hands constantly on breaks. And changing break blocks a lot (it’s an older bike)
It is really the tires, gearing, and other differences that make your race bike easier to ride quickly, not the weight.
But yeah, we're all mahjong a lot of small accelerations as we ride, that's why cycling isn't a steady state.0 -
I realized it would have been easier for people to understand if I had just pointed out that 10 to 12 kg race bikes are faster (on flat ground) than 7 kg race bikes. Aerodynamics is the story of adding weight to a bike to make it faster.0
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Okay...enough with the geeking out before we start talking about sidewall thread counts, rubber durometer, and if ceramic bearings are really worth it.
I vote for him getting the On-One Bootzipper or a Surly.0
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