Dog owners! Help!

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  • martini83
    martini83 Posts: 113 Member
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    It must be a poodle thing, we have a poodle x ****zu and he is very very smart but can also be very very naughty and have no ears, so excitable with visitors. this thread is great and i will be paying attention to the advice.
  • margo36
    margo36 Posts: 222 Member
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    I have three large dogs. Jack 13 yr old Dalmation, Prince 5 yr old Belguim Shepherd and Daisy 2 yr old Dalmation. These are all high energy dogs that need plenty of exercise to wear them out. As you can imagine I need to remain top dog to keep control. I have never used a crate so can't comment on that. A bored dog will find it's own entertainment in your absence. I have two stairgates in my house. Even if I leave these gates open they will not go through them without invitation.One at the top of the stairs and one across the lounge door mainly because I don't want dog fur in these areas. Large Dogs need regular walking. It helps keep them calm. Before you go out and leaving your dog on it's own take it for a long walk to tire it out. Before you leave give him something he can chew on for hours and put everything out his reach you don't want him to destroy. It is pointless punishing a dog that has done something naughty in your absence because he has already forgotten it. I fill a plastic bottle with water and when you see your dog doing something you don't want him to do squirt him in the face with it. It usually takes about three lots of that for him to get the message. I have only had to this when they have been puppies.Very important to take control when they are puppies. Take him for a good walk before you have visitors. When the visitors arrive introduce your dog to them and then send him to his bed with something to chew on. If he whines squirt him with water. If he gets out of his bed proving he is calm let him stay. Staying calm means he joins you and plonks himself on the floor and lays down not annoying your visitors. If he becomes excitable send him to his bed. At feeding time everyone sits quietly before they get fed. Do not give him food until he does. I always feed mine after we have eaten never before or during. Top Dog always eats first. Excited Dogs do not listen. You need to wait for him to calm down before he will.
  • Partyofpugs
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    The door was closed, in response to whoever said to close the door. That's a big issue at this point. Now I'm wondering, "Can he open every door? Was this a fluke? Was there something that made it easy for him to open it?" The whole thing honestly baffles me.

    I am starting to take him on more walks. We originally did two a day, on for an hour on my lunch break and one when I get home (because again, like I said, it's not like my husband works part time or anything and it's not like the dog is also his responsibility, but whatever! I won't let the dog suffer because my husband is an idiot!). It's really going to be a huge issue if I've got to walk him in the morning as well. I don't get enough sleep as it is, but I am thinking about hiring a dog walker to take him on a mid morning walk, or maybe taking him on the lunch walk, but have her do like a two hour walk, then I can walk him when I get home. I'm not sure yet. I don't know how I'd feel about ACTUALLY having a lunch break.

    What I think I'm going to start doing is he can sleep in there, as he seems to like it, but that's only what his crate will be used for. When he wakes up and comes out for the day, we'll close it so he can't go inside otherwise, so when he's bad we can just send him to "his" room.

    I need to work on husband training too. Anyone know of anyone offering those classes? LOL!

    The walks are a good idea and really necessary. A dog walker is an awesome idea. Really consider it. What type of door handles do you have? If they are levered then most dogs can figure out how to push down. If they are knobs, smart dogs can figure out how to work them. Try finding those plastic childproof knob covers that you have to squeeze to open. I have Standards and they are smart and they do test. One was a trash hound. I finally had to get a trash bin that took 2 hands to open to keep my Spike out of it. You just have to think it through and stay smart. Also leave things for him to get into on purpose. Two of my favorites are Kongs and the balls/boxes you fill with treats. You can put part of his morning feeding in the ball. That way he has to work to eat. I stuff kongs with cream cheese or peanut butter and freeze them. It takes them a lot longer to get the treat out.
  • foremant86
    foremant86 Posts: 1,115 Member
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    Poodle + lab = high energy and wicked smart

    Chances are your dog is bored and acting out. You need to give him more exercise and also work his brain. Do some obediance with him everyday, even if it's just going over stuff he already knows. Find some "puzzle" toys for dogs, the kind they have to roll around or figure out how to get the treat out of. Stuff like that.

    and NILF(nothing in life is free) is VERY good place to start with a dog who is acting out. Reminds him that you're the boss and he doesn't get whatever he wants just because he wants it.

    and not to be nitpicky but labradoodle mix is an oxymoron. a labradoodle is already a mutt..
  • chedges9090
    chedges9090 Posts: 208 Member
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    Not sure if this will be helpful or not.. but, I was at a friends house last week and they had something called a "scat mat"-- (i think)-- and it made a vibration type thing if the dog stepped on it. They put it in front of the hallway that went to their bedrooms and then in the entry way of their formal dining area. They had small dogs.. But, after awhile-- you don't even have to turn on the mat.. because the dogs are so used to seeing the mat/area and they don't go in there.
  • nikirushka
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    Not sure if this will be helpful or not.. but, I was at a friends house last week and they had something called a "scat mat"-- (i think)-- and it made a vibration type thing if the dog stepped on it. They put it in front of the hallway that went to their bedrooms and then in the entry way of their formal dining area. They had small dogs.. But, after awhile-- you don't even have to turn on the mat.. because the dogs are so used to seeing the mat/area and they don't go in there.

    The Scat Mat produces a nasty electric shock when stepped on - it is seriously unpleasant and a huge punisher, nothing less. It has no place in dog training and should be binned along with the electric collar, spray collar, water spray, rattle can and so on.

    Stair gates are a much fairer way to keep a dog out, they are a clear barrier, and unlike a scat mat the dog generally can't jump over them to get into the area anyway (and tall gates are made for dogs who can jump the normal height ones) - certainly any of my dogs would have the smarts to figure out that they could do that!


    Destruction is usually a sign of boredom - get the mind working and the legs moving and it should settle down. Most adult dogs need a good hour or two exercise a day minimum and mental exercise on top. foremant86 is spot on.

    Also, stop watching Cesar Milan - the man is a bully, he is dangerous, he knows zip about real dog behaviour (his methodology is based on force; his behavioural knowledge is based on incorrect wolf behaviour which was never the case in wolves, never mind dogs) and most certainly should not be on TV. He is already banned from TV in Italy for his methods; and when he came here to the UK on tour, he had to seriously tone it down as he was informed sharpish that a lot of what he does would contravene our animal welfare laws. Food for thought.

    You don't need to be the 'alpha' or the 'pack leader' - dominance theory in its various forms has been debunked for years, both by science generally and also by the very people who invented it in the first place! Think of yourself more as the person who controls his food ;) and his mentor, teacher, guide, rather than his boss. A benevolent, teaching relationship will get you much further.


    You need to show the dog that if he does as he asks he will be rewarded (use whatever he finds rewarding, food works brilliantly for most dogs; more tasty things for harder behaviours such as recalls); if he doesn't, he'll either be ignored for something minor or given a time-out or similar for something that can't be ignored (such as being destructive). The crate is useful for when you can't supervise him and guide him.

    If he doesn't follow the commands most of the time, then he doesn't know them - you need to train more. Get him into a good class (avoid ones that use choke chains, lead corrections etc), reinforce him when he does them and set aside specific training sessions inbetween classes to remind him - dog training is no different to learning any skill, both for people and dogs; if it isn't kept uup, the skill gets rusty and can be lost altogether, both for the dog and the owner.
  • MrsFarrow
    MrsFarrow Posts: 326 Member
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    Poodle + lab = high energy and wicked smart

    Chances are your dog is bored and acting out. You need to give him more exercise and also work his brain. Do some obediance with him everyday, even if it's just going over stuff he already knows. Find some "puzzle" toys for dogs, the kind they have to roll around or figure out how to get the treat out of. Stuff like that.

    and NILF(nothing in life is free) is VERY good place to start with a dog who is acting out. Reminds him that you're the boss and he doesn't get whatever he wants just because he wants it.

    and not to be nitpicky but labradoodle mix is an oxymoron. a labradoodle is already a mutt..
    And not to get nitpicky, but he's classified as a "designer dog". Both of his parents were pure bred with papers. I just go by what he's classified as. Thanks for the input though.

    I think we are going to go with the walking plan, and get him more toys that stimulate his mind so he doesn't get bored as easily. We'll see!
  • JustEllieK
    JustEllieK Posts: 423 Member
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    Haha lab mix. I have a lab/basset hound. A known smart dog with a known dumb dog. Try that for training. Repetition after repetition. It is really the best method. You have to be consistent in your punishment.

    I have found this dude to be very helpful. I have used his dog walking technique and it really does great! Seriously...a lot of great help. Watch them all!!!!!

    http://www.youtube.com/user/eletendre1

    *Edit* Your dog may not have this problem, but it is the first one and thought it might be helpful.
  • HMonsterX
    HMonsterX Posts: 3,000 Member
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    Just to restress something. You can only punish your dog if you catch him/her red-pawed. Dogs live in the moment, for the moment. He does a poo on the carpet while you're out. You come home, and as he comes to you all happy you notice the poo, and scold him. He thinks that coming to greet you happily is a bad thing, as he got punished for it.

    There have been times, especially when my dog was a puppy he'd really wind me up, and the only way he could avoid punishment was to come to me when i called. The WORST thing you can do is punish your dog when he comes when called. If you think he needs some chastisement make sure you go to him, not call him to you.

    Also, the clicker is great in training!
  • FollowThatUnicorn
    FollowThatUnicorn Posts: 200 Member
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    Crates should NEVER be used as punishment.

    Dogs have a 2 second rule. They are only aware of what they've done for 2 seconds after they've done it. So you only have 2 seconds to praise or punish. After that, they do not understand why they are being yelled at or given a treat.

    To beat boredom, get a puzzle ball for treats/food. Petsmart, Petco, all have them. It will keep him busy for a long time and it makes them tired because they think with their brain and that tires them out more than physical stuff.
  • livnlite
    livnlite Posts: 520
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    I am curious about the long term whining, First and foremost, is to have a full check up at the vet to make sure he is not experiencing some sort of medical or physical ailment. My daugter's little dog (for instance) started to whine for no apparent reason and actually would yelp when you walked into the room if she was laying down and was startled. Turns out, after being thoroughly examined, and x-rayed, it was discovered that she had degenerating disks. She has since been put on medication and has been just fine.

    I would also wonder about boredom, Is this dog getting enough attention and exercise. and good quality food and water. I'm not talking about just being let out into the back yard to do his business. I'm talking about taking him for a walk (for a least a half hour) or at least a nice game of fetch or tug of war or any combination of all of the above .... every day. Some one on one time. A high energy dog like that requires some very basic treatment. If you are not filling those needs. you are going to see behaviour problems manifest themselves. High energy dogs that are kennelled for extended periods of time during the day will have a tendancy to have a problem when there is no balance of physical activity,

    Another tip to indicate how a dog is feeling, is excessive panting .. especially when it's not particuarily hot out...and it's poop. Have ya checked out his poop and if he struggles to take a poop? Again, I would talk to your vet about your concerns to see if there is some sort of affirmative action that he/she would suggest.
  • dckim
    dckim Posts: 311 Member
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    Watch the Dog Whisperer with Cesar Millan. I learned a lot. Btw, he is our neighbor here in Santa Clarita, CA. :wink:
  • amy1157
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    Crates are a safe and secure place for a dog, never a punishment. I took my dog for a couple of sessions with a local dog trainer. Much better behaved dog now.
  • CrimsonHellkite
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    And not to get nitpicky, but he's classified as a "designer dog". Both of his parents were pure bred with papers. I just go by what he's classified as. Thanks for the input though.

    lol and "designer dog" was a word made up by yuppies that were offended someone called their dog a mutt...
  • foremant86
    foremant86 Posts: 1,115 Member
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    And not to get nitpicky, but he's classified as a "designer dog". Both of his parents were pure bred with papers. I just go by what he's classified as. Thanks for the input though.

    lol and "designer dog" was a word made up by yuppies that were offended someone called their dog a mutt...

    ^ indeed.

    purebred + different purebred = mutt!
  • 16mixingbowls
    16mixingbowls Posts: 205 Member
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    And not to get nitpicky, but he's classified as a "designer dog". Both of his parents were pure bred with papers. I just go by what he's classified as. Thanks for the input though.

    lol and "designer dog" was a word made up by yuppies that were offended someone called their dog a mutt...

    ^ indeed.

    purebred + different purebred = mutt!

    Wow, you two are sure supportive!! The original poster was on here asking for help and ideas, not your two cent put-downs about her breed of dog. Can you offer anything HELPFUL to this thread?
  • CrimsonHellkite
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    And not to get nitpicky, but he's classified as a "designer dog". Both of his parents were pure bred with papers. I just go by what he's classified as. Thanks for the input though.

    lol and "designer dog" was a word made up by yuppies that were offended someone called their dog a mutt...

    ^ indeed.

    purebred + different purebred = mutt!

    Wow, you two are sure supportive!! The original poster was on here asking for help and ideas, not your two cent put-downs about her breed of dog. Can you offer anything HELPFUL to this thread?

    lol, silly chicken... there is no put down about a mutt...there are great mutts and aweful pure breads(mmmm bread) and vice versa..
  • emd0019
    emd0019 Posts: 179 Member
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    The Scat Mat produces a nasty electric shock when stepped on - it is seriously unpleasant and a huge punisher, nothing less. It has no place in dog training and should be binned along with the electric collar, spray collar, water spray, rattle can and so on.

    Also, stop watching Cesar Milan - the man is a bully, he is dangerous, he knows zip about real dog behaviour (his methodology is based on force; his behavioural knowledge is based on incorrect wolf behaviour which was never the case in wolves, never mind dogs) and most certainly should not be on TV. He is already banned from TV in Italy for his methods; and when he came here to the UK on tour, he had to seriously tone it down as he was informed sharpish that a lot of what he does would contravene our animal welfare laws. Food for thought.

    If he doesn't follow the commands most of the time, then he doesn't know them - you need to train more. Get him into a good class (avoid ones that use choke chains, lead corrections etc), reinforce him when he does them and set aside specific training sessions inbetween classes to remind him - dog training is no different to learning any skill, both for people and dogs; if it isn't kept uup, the skill gets rusty and can be lost altogether, both for the dog and the owner.

    Sorry to get away from the OP but while I agree with a lot of your post I don't completely agree with this one. I quoted the parts I didn't necessarily agree with or wanted to ask you about.
    As far as shock collars go I feel as though with the right dog in the right situation they can be beneficial so I don't find it true to say they should be banned.
    As for Cesar Milan, I'm not a big fan of his. But I was wondering about what animal welfare laws he would have been breaking. I have seen his methods and nothing I have seen indicates to me something worthy of animal welfare laws
    Last but not least I know plenty of high strung dogs that have been helped to mind while walking on a leash with lead correctors like a gentle leader, so I'm not quite sure why you would be so against them.
    Anyway, I was just wondering if you could elaborate on some of your opinions.
    Sorry again to get away from the OP
  • phocid
    phocid Posts: 85 Member
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    Our dog is also crate trained. But the crate is never for punishment.

    We have "settle spots" in the house. Small leashes where we can hook the dog to keep him out of the way. He usually gets a chew stick or something so that he doesn't hate being "settled." But not always.

    Our dog eats toilet paper, loves used Kleenex tissue, counter surfs, devours mail, etc. Paper obsessed. It's annoying, but we have learned to keep these things out of his path of destruction.

    Exercise is huge. A tired dog is generally a well-behaved dog. We still have good days and bad. We've had this guys for close to 2 years now, and we have only twice recently allowed him to remain uncrated while we were gone.

    One thing to consider: You mentioned that maybe you're the alpha. I just don't think that's the case. The alpha is listened to, period. If he only occasionally listens to you, he's not treating you like an alpha.

    I agree with a previous post that he must "work" for everything that he receives in your home. Petting? Sit first. Food? Sit first. Wait. Then eat. You should always eat something before the dog does, and he should watch you eat it. It can be one cracker. it can be a slice of apple. The point is, you eat. Then he does. These are subtle things that mean so much in the doggieverse.

    I also highly recommend a book called Leader of the Pack by Baer and Duno. It's a super quick read, and it goes over many of these principles.

    I hope you get things worked out with yours. We joke that our dog is a 'dud' - but we'll do right by him and give him a good home.