Just bought a bike!

joehempel

Since I'm doing my first Triathlon in 3 weeks I decided I should probably buy a bike and start riding a little. It's a 6 mile kayak, 5.5 mile run, 18 mile bike.

I don't have a huge budget, so after some research, I did end up with the GMC Denali 700c 22.5" inch. Yes, it's wal-mart, no I don't care.

I'm getting decent (for me) speeds averaging about 12.5 mph with the amount of hills in my area, chickening out when I hit speeds upwards of 21 mph and hitting the breaks.


There are a couple questions, that are basic questions that I don't really understand yet, so hopefully someone can chime in and it will help my gear shifting knowledge more than just higher number is better for hills.

1.) The left side shifter, I guess is the front wheel derailleur, it's got just a + and a - . I assume that it is supposed to change the position of the front wheel chain, but no idea if it is.

2.) How does that work in combination with the rear?

3.) How do you know if the handlebars are correctly adjusted to your height? I'm 5'9" and the bike is 57.5cm I think? With the seat lowered all the way I get a good feel, legs are about 80 percent straight. Just want to make sure the handlebars are in the right position for the most comfort.

4.) How quickly does the new rider pain go away? LOL -- seriously though, this crap hurts a bit (better today than the other day though).

CM_73

1) & 2) You want to try and maintain a straight a line on your chain as you can.
So, big ring on the front (highest front gear) should be used with the smaller sprockets on the back (highest gears.) If you have a triple on the front, lowest gear (smallest ring) is for climbing steep hills or for a really ferocious headwind, and would be used with the largest ring on the back inwards, plus a few up. The middle ring is "general," i.e gives you the broadest range of gears on the back (you can use most but I avoid the two extremes) and the largest ring would be used with the smallest cogs on the back for straights, downhills and tail winds.
You can use highest on the front with lowest on the back, but it's pulling your chain at the sharpest angle, you'll probably notice the noise and it causes rapid wear on the gear teeth and chain.
It sounds far more complicated than it actually is! There's probably a diagram you can Google that will make more sense than I did.

3) I'd go for what feels comfortable. You don't want too much weight on your wrists, although racing bikes will have a seat position higher than the bars to make you more aerodynamic. (sorry, no idea what bike you have, I don't think we get those in the UK) Again, plenty of advice on Google for getting your saddle at the right height, some of them a bit complex. But, very basically, you want your saddle as high as you can get it without rocking your hips. The more you can extend your leg, the more power you'll get, and the less strain you put on just your quads.

4) Ha! It does take a little while... The correct saddle position helps the most, as well as getting your gears right so that your cadence is higher (try to spin the peddles at 60 revs/min or higher) That will put more fuelling demand on your cardio system, rather than relying on leg muscle which has a very finite amount of energy to give. It does take a little while to build up the muscle, and obviously everyone's different, but you should see improvements in 2-4 weeks.
As you'll be riding competitively though, you'll probably find it takes some Months to really build your legs as you'll constantly be pushing to improve your times.
Interval training is fantastic for that, you can do very disciplined intervals on a turbo trainer, or very flat, quiet roads. Or if you're not as serious about it, make a concious effort when out riding around to try and sprint to the lights before they change before backing off for a couple of minutes to get your breath back.

Good luck!

CM_73

There you go, there's a diagram with a far better explanation of the gears:

http://www.bike-advisor.com/bicycle-guides/how-to-shift-gears-correctly-on-your-bicycle.html

joehempel

Beautiful! Thank you so much!

Bike training sounds a lot like running training as far as the cardio system goes....based on your information I think the height of the handlebars are correctly, they are just a bit below the seat and I don't feel all that much strain on the wrist.

I don't rock my hips either with my legs almost going straight and I can definitely feel it ALL in my quad when I go up hills and not so much on the straightaways.

I think by looking at that gearing page, I'm doing the wrong thing with my gears....my front is on the smallest rail and I find it more comfortable to ride in that position with the gear at 5-6, I think moving it to the middle will be very beneficial as when I get to higher speeds it feels like the chain is slipping and that is probably why.

CM_73

You're welcome! hope it helps.
The gears do take a little bit of getting used to to start with, but it quickly becomes second nature. You'll soon learn to hear when the chain doesn't quite sound right when it's at too much of an angle.

I think you're probably right about the intervals being the same as running. I'm too fat to run at the moment without battering my knees, but when I do, intervals give me the fastest gains.
When I trained for a time trial, I did extremely disciplined intervals on the turbo trainer using a stopwatch and heart rate monitor. Boring as hell, but it worked very well. I also completed the time trial by using the HRM mounted on the bars and keeping my heart range just within what was sustainable for the 25 miles. I found it way too easy to burn out too quickly without monitoring it!

Frankie_Felinius

I have a cheapo mint green beach cruiser from Wal-mart! Bought it a few weeks ago and I've been riding the crap out of it! I usually do 10 miles a day, 5-6 days a week, average 10-12 mph. It is as far away from competitive riding as can be but I have a lot of fun and burn about 500 calories a pop! I just like to meander around town checking out people's gardens, porches full of junk, pets, etc. And riding up to the nanobrewery up the street...that is my plan for tomorrow!

joehempel

Actually now that you mention it....I think the noise my chain makes while peddling is a direct result of bad gear switching by me.

My first purchase was the Garmin GSC 10 Cadence/Speed sensor for cadence only until I have to move indoors ,that should be here soon, the next was the mount for my Forerunner 620 so I can see it right there on the handle bars.

joehempel

Frankie_Felinius wrote: »

I have a cheapo mint green beach cruiser from Wal-mart! Bought it a few weeks ago and I've been riding the crap out of it! I usually do 10 miles a day, 5-6 days a week, average 10-12 mph. It is as far away from competitive riding as can be but I have a lot of fun and burn about 500 calories a pop! I just like to meander around town checking out people's gardens, porches full of junk, pets, etc. And riding up to the nanobrewery up the street...that is my plan for tomorrow!

I actually plan on using this for an IM 70.3 at some point. I won't be competitive, but that's not my goal for it....I'm going to be called crazy for using THIS bike, but I've also heard it will suit me just fine since I'm not going to be competitive, just completing.

Frankie_Felinius

Whatever works, right?! Mine has no gears, coaster brakes and a basket but hey...I've gotten stronger, lost weight...as long as it serves it's purpose!

joehempel

Frankie_Felinius wrote: »

Whatever works, right?! Mine has no gears, coaster brakes and a basket but hey...I've gotten stronger, lost weight...as long as it serves it's purpose!

EXACTLY! I don't really think I'd be happier with a more expensive bike at the moment. Talk to me 6 months down the road though LOL

CM_73

joehempel wrote: »

Frankie_Felinius wrote: »

Whatever works, right?! Mine has no gears, coaster brakes and a basket but hey...I've gotten stronger, lost weight...as long as it serves it's purpose!

EXACTLY! I don't really think I'd be happier with a more expensive bike at the moment. Talk to me 6 months down the road though LOL

Ha! It's a slippery slope...

Kristinemomof3

Thanks for the info. I'm starting to look at road bikes, my dh cycles & just did a week of 375 miles to raise money for Habitat for Humanity. I currently have a mountain bike & of course we have hills in & out of our neighborhood. I'm still learning the whole gears thing.

Kristinemomof3

I just found this & find it helpful. http://coachlevi.com/cycling/complete-beginner-guide-to-bicycle-gears-shifting/

joehempel

Great article!!

I guess I'm confused about the higher/lower gear....for my bike, 7 is the harder to pedal for hills and 1 is the easiest....unless I'm just reading it wrong. Hopefully I'll figure it out soon and not screw it up.

My bike doesn't even show 1-3 on the Front, it's just a + and -, so two options, but I have three wheels.

SBRRepeat

Joe, am I right in thinking you are doing the Morgan's Little Miami Tri? If so, you're in my neck of the woods so I have some recommendations:
1. The new tri shop in Cincinnati, House of Run n Tri, does a bike 101 and a beginner group ride at your pace on Wednesday night. They can help you figure out gearing and basic bike maintenance.
2. If you really want to use this bike for a 70.3 , you need to get the bike fitted to you by a pro. Try Bishops in Milford. Chris fitted my road bike for tris and he knows what's up. It only cost about $50 bucks and was well worth it. I'd also recommend having them do a tune up, checking the true on the wheels, etc. since Walmart doesn't have the best mechanics. They're pretty non judgmental about your bike's origin, too.
3. Buy chamois (bike shorts) and chamois butter. Thank me later.
4. At your current pace, you won't make the cut off at a 70.3, so you gotta get faster. I race on flats at 21 mph. Best way to get faster is the same as running: ride as often as you can and ride with a group. See #1 for group ride recommendation. You're probably not ready for most other shop rides, but the HORNT bike 101 would be great.

Good luck, have fun, welcome to triathlon!
Sorry for the novel!

joehempel

SBRRepeat, YES it's the Little Miami Tri!

I've never heard of House of Run n Tri, I'll look them up, and I will also try and do a ride with them on a Wednesday night! That beginners bike course would be awesome!

I realize I DO need to get faster, on Flats I'm about 18mph, but I need to get used to being on a bike again before I do more speed I think.

I'm pretty far away from Milford (Greenhills), but that $50 price for being fitted sounds really good.

I'm doing 2 Tri's this year (so far) so mixing in the bike/swim with my half and full marathon training. My first of course is Morgan's and then I'm doing one in Mason.

SBRRepeat

They just opened last weekend. Don't even have a lot of inventory yet. But they're good people.
I don't know if there are any good bike shops close to you, but definitely look around. Kevin at Performance is good too, but I always recommend the local bike shops over the national chains.

I may do Mason, too, should be a nice low pressure race.

tdatsenko

joehempel wrote: »

Great article!!

I guess I'm confused about the higher/lower gear....for my bike, 7 is the harder to pedal for hills and 1 is the easiest....unless I'm just reading it wrong. Hopefully I'll figure it out soon and not screw it up.

My bike doesn't even show 1-3 on the Front, it's just a + and -, so two options, but I have three wheels.

Lol, I have the same bike, though I bought mine used for $50.

Your shifter only has +- on it because it isn't indexed(no set positions). You have to feel out the front shift because you may want to adjust it so that it doesn't make noise depending on what gear you're using in the back.

47Jacqueline

joehempel wrote: »

There are a couple questions, that are basic questions that I don't really understand yet, so hopefully someone can chime in and it will help my gear shifting knowledge more than just higher number is better for hills.

1.) The left side shifter, I guess is the front wheel derailleur, it's got just a + and a - . I assume that it is supposed to change the position of the front wheel chain, but no idea if it is.

2.) How does that work in combination with the rear?

3.) How do you know if the handlebars are correctly adjusted to your height? I'm 5'9" and the bike is 57.5cm I think? With the seat lowered all the way I get a good feel, legs are about 80 percent straight. Just want to make sure the handlebars are in the right position for the most comfort.

4.) How quickly does the new rider pain go away? LOL -- seriously though, this crap hurts a bit (better today than the other day though).

1) The + makes it go to the larger sprocket, the - makes it go to the smaller sprocket.

2) The larger sprocket in front makes everything a bit easier.

3) A better bike comes with a customized fitting session, but you could take it in to a bike store and have them help you. If it's minor, they may do it for free. The seat should have your legs in a slight bend. 80% is too low for you. Your elbows should be slightly bent when you are riding. Again, a fit will help. I have to get a shorter stem for my handlebars because I'm reaching too far - it's back ordered and I'm very unhappy.

3) Make sure you have the right saddle. There are men's and women's saddles. There are also wider saddles for comfort. Not totally familiar with men's "junk" requirements, lol, but it does take a bit of time.

tdatsenko

Also make sure you get your fit right. It'll help with the pain and you may be able to go faster too. Just search for GCN(Global cycling network) on youtube. They have every video you'll need.

https://www.youtube.com/user/globalcyclingnetwork

joehempel

Will definitely be taking this in for a fit at some point. I don't really mind putting money into it because as long as the parts are replaceable I can go ahead (even though the frame is a bit heavier) and make it a more expensive bike for a little less money (at least that's the idea, I could be very wrong).

Fit's are generally low cost?