Bike

npguy2013

What are your recommendations for a bike that would carry a large person. I'm currently 330, and so there may not be a bike that would be sufficient until I lose some more weight, but I'd love to think there is.

Ultimate goal would be to one day ride long distances. I don't know for sure, but I think I would prefer road versus mountain or woods. I also don't know if I need to just have a regular pedal, or lock my feet to them with special shoes, etc. I'm as new as you can be at thinking about biking, so advice is helpful.

L1zardQueen

Try your local bike store.

NorthCascades

There are bikes designed for people heavier than you. At your weight, riding a bike is doable; the main thing you'll want to look out for is a strong rear wheel. I agree with the suggestion to visit your local bike store and talk about it.

Road bikes are ideal for long distances, and because cycling is low impact asks you get to "sit," it's a really good way to have fun while burning calories and getting fitter as side effects. Ride a comfortable distance at first, don't add miles too quickly.

mca90guitar

Check out the local shops and see what they recommend.

Also, I'm a fan of clipless pedals and shoes. Just set them loose or get the easy out cleat when you are learning. Also get your feet unclipped before you stop. I personally haven't had a crash do to not being able to get out of mine yet.

mca90guitar

You will want biking shoes regardless though.

NorthCascades

I assume you probably rode a bike sometimes as a kid, and understand the basics. Keeping yourself balanced won't be a problem, etc.

npguy2013 wrote: »

I don't know for sure, but I think I would prefer road versus mountain or woods. I also don't know if I need to just have a regular pedal, or lock my feet to them with special shoes, etc.

For historical reasons those are "clipless pedals" even though you clip in and out of them. My advice is get them a month or two after you start riding. Do you want to have to decide which pedals and shoes before you can ride? Also, you're going to have to get the hang of when to shift - especially on a road bike, shifting a lot is part of having an enjoyable ride instead of fighting a machine that should be helping you. So I'd say get that down before you deal with clipless.

In the road bike world, for a while it was all about ultralight and kind of minimalist bikes, with very skinny (23 mm) tires that could only handle pavement. A growing trend for the last few years has been "gravel" / adventure road bikes. These are a little beefier, with wider tires (28 to 32 mm by default with the ability to go bigger) that handle unpaved road surfaces. These are still very much road bikes. They won't work very well (maybe at all) on hiking trails (depending how rough) but they'll be much faster than a hybrid of mountain bike in their element. They also have a riding position that's more comfortable than a racing road bike. It sounds like you want a road bike, and a gravel road bike is probably ideal for you.

Mountain bikes tend to be abused more - people jump with them, hit rocks and roots, etc. If you get a road bike and wind up having wheel trouble, a 29 inch MTB wheel will fit a 700c road bike, and it'll be right at home on a gravel road bike. Don't cross that bridge 'til you get to it, but if you start breaking spokes, know that you have options.

JeromeBarry1

My recommendation is that you get a split saddle.
My high school bike was a cheap 10-speed with narrow rims. I was fat enough that the front wheel bent out of shape after I'd gotten a couple of miles away from home. I replaced it with a cheap 18-speed mountain bike which has borne my weight 30+ years. When I was still well over 200 lb, riding it caused my nuts to get numb. The split saddle relieved that problem.

MrStabbems

steel frame if your worried about your weight and not the bikes.

the seat/saddle is going to be an issue until you find the right fit, one with a pressure relieving gap in the middle is good, a numb man dangler isnt fun. (unless its not completely numb, in which case your mrs will love you).

if your unfit and live in a hilly area i would start with no clip in shoes, they're cheap enough to get later on.

go for a triple not a compact (again if your unfit and live anywhere remotely hilly)

a 32 spoke rear wheel will hold your weight, the front is less of an issue.

make sure the bike fits you and its not just the colour/price/style you want.

MTB and hybrids will feel more secure but will be heavier. Consider the tyres you will be on. For example, a mtb with 29er wheels vs a road bike with skinny clinchers.

check out This site for more info about heavier riders. A very good site with a ton of info.

TimothyFish

If you don't go with a bike designed for your weight, I would tend to favor a quality mountain bike over a road bike because mountain bikes are designed to take a beating. I figure a bike designed for an up to 250 lb rider that is intended for taking a beating will handle a 330 lb rider who is riding smooth surfaces. The more spokes the better. I would stay away from the cheap look-a-likes in the big box stores. But there are companies like Workmans Cycles (http://www.worksmancycles.com/big-bikes.html) that design bikes that can carry up to 500 lbs.

BrianSharpe

Here's a link you may find helpful (it's a couple of years old but the fundamentals don't change...)

bicycling.com/bikes-and-gear-features/bike-gear/heavyweight-guide-bike-buying

ronocnikral

The single weakest point will be the wheels. More specifically, the rear wheel. I would suggest a cross 3, 36 spoke, double butted spokes, quality rim for the rear wheel. It should made by someone who knows what they are doing and properly tensioned. Not a machine, but a knowledgeable human being. There are 2 people who I trust to build my wheels - Peter White (far superior) and myself. Perhaps "wheel fanatyk" if they were building wheels for average joes.

All the rest has little bearing and is more personal preference than anything else when it comes to weight.

GrayRider61

I'm a mountain bike so I'm partial to that type of riding. But go to a local shop and tell them what your goals are. And you don't need to start out clipless if you don't feel comfortable. I'm 220 and ride a 29er mountain bike. Back wheel used to break spokes all the time but not anymore. Also, how much do you want to spend?

Motorsheen

I put road slicks (tires) on one of my mtn bikes.
The mtn bike rims are built to handle abuse and will support your body weight.

Just an option...

Motorsheen

TimothyFish wrote: »

If you don't go with a bike designed for your weight, I would tend to favor a quality mountain bike over a road bike because mountain bikes are designed to take a beating. I figure a bike designed for an up to 250 lb rider that is intended for taking a beating will handle a 330 lb rider who is riding smooth surfaces. The more spokes the better. I would stay away from the cheap look-a-likes in the big box stores. But there are companies like Workmans Cycles (http://www.worksmancycles.com/big-bikes.html) that design bikes that can carry up to 500 lbs.

Good stuff right here...

ckcana2

Hey did you find a bike? I'm in the same situation and looking for a bike that will hold over 300. If so, what type of bike did you buy?

timibotkin

I'd recommend a Giant Sedona DX. It's a hybrid bike, built for the road and light trails/gravel. You are in an upright position and it's very comfortable. I've been riding between five to eight miles a couple times a week. And I'm over 300. Hope this helps!

sijomial

Motorsheen wrote: »

I put road slicks (tires) on one of my mtn bikes.
The mtn bike rims are built to handle abuse and will support your body weight.

Just an option...

I did the same when I was getting back into cycling. Road tyres are a far easier ride on road and faster than knobbly off road tyres. Even did a couple of 60 mile charity rides on my heavy as concrete steel framed full suspension mountain bike and it was comfortable and a generally nice ride. Makes hills easy too with the enormous range of gears.

I upgraded to a road biased hybrid (did my first Century on that), then a faster hybrid (full carbon) and then road bikes. It was a nice progression which allowed me to go further and faster as my fitness improved and my ambition increased. Road bikes open up long distance social or club rides to you - it would be a struggle to keep up otherwise unless the pace is very moderate. I do Audax events (a.k.a. eating events held in beautiful countryside).

Regarding cleated shoes - definite yes from me, really helps my wonky knees stay in line.
Besides it's also very entertaining to pedestrians when you topple over at zero MPH with your feet locked in.....

yourfitnessenemy

Most of the bike stuff is already covered (+1 on good wheels for your size), but I'm going to be the one naysayer who says you don't really need clipless pedals, esp if you're just getting into biking. I used them when I raced/sometimes on really long rides, but for everyday riding and commuting (and sometimes even long rides) I prefer pedals with cages and regular sneakers.

_mr_b

Firstly, go talk it through with your local bike store.

My pennyworth is that you'll probably be best off with a hybrid bike right now, it's a halfway house between road and mountain bike so it's a more upright position meaning you won't be hunched over which may well be uncomfortable at your weight. It'll also have tyres that have a larger volume which'll make things more comfortable.

Don't get hung up on pedals and all the rest of it, you'll do just fine on flats for now. You can look at that kind of stuff a few months down the line.