So many spin questions!

aeloine

Good morning everyone!

I've been going to spin class for a couple of weeks now, so I'm past the sore butt phase and I'm starting to look around and notice that I don't quite look like everyone else in terms of form. I have a couple questions that *are* addressed elsewhere on the Internet but I'm still not quite sure I'm understanding all the way.

1. When adjusting the seat height: where is the top of the hip? It is the widest part of your hip? I've seen some people go as high as almost their natural waist in class. I don't know if my set up is correct. I've had an instructor show me and my legs are fine with it but I'm having a hard time with hinging forward and holding on to the handles.

2. The handles should be forearm length from the front of the seat. Got that. But they still feel too far away and the bike won't adjust any more (seat all the way forward, handles all the way back). I'm not short (5'7"), but I'm also not getting the almost horizontal back look that some people have in class. Not sure if my seat is too low (I HAVE played around with it but I'm not actually sure what I'm looking for) or If my belly is getting in the way. I have an easier time not holding on to the handles at all and spinning than trying to reach for the handles because I almost have to lift myself up by my finger tips (and can't reach the top of the handles while seated AT ALL).

3. My feet go numb. I have high quality bike shoes with cleats, so the straps aren't an issue. I was fitted at a bike shop and they feel AWESOME when I'm standing in the on the ground. When I spin, I notice that my left foot has a bit of room to slide in the back, but only the left foot. Both feet go numb about 40 min in. I don't think the shoes are too tight, the left one might be slightly loose, but it might also be because I tried to leave them a bit loose this last time to see if that would help with the numbness. It didn't.

4. Is there a proper way to move your feet during the spin? I've heard "like wiping your shoe" motion but I think I'm driving with my toes...

5. Cleat placement: when I was a kid riding my bike outside, the pedals would hit in the middle of the foot. That was a comfortable little nook. The guy at the bike shop attached the cleats at the ball of the foot and it feels weird compared to the little-kid-bike feeling. Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot? Is there a way to tell if they're in the right spot for me? There are a number of tweaks possible with the bike shoes I own.

Thank you for taking the time to read/answer any/all of these questions. I know that this is a whole mess of things in one post but I wanted to keep it consolidated so that I could go back to it to reference later.

jjpptt2

aeloine wrote: »

Good morning everyone!

I've been going to spin class for a couple of weeks now, so I'm past the sore butt phase and I'm starting to look around and notice that I don't quite look like everyone else in terms of form. I have a couple questions that *are* addressed elsewhere on the Internet but I'm still not quite sure I'm understanding all the way.

1. When adjusting the seat height: where is the top of the hip? It is the widest part of your hip? I've seen some people go as high as almost their natural waist in class. I don't know if my set up is correct. I've had an instructor show me and my legs are fine with it but I'm having a hard time with hinging forward and holding on to the handles.

2. The handles should be forearm length from the front of the seat. Got that. But they still feel too far away and the bike won't adjust any more (seat all the way forward, handles all the way back). I'm not short (5'7"), but I'm also not getting the almost horizontal back look that some people have in class. Not sure if my seat is too low (I HAVE played around with it but I'm not actually sure what I'm looking for) or If my belly is getting in the way. I have an easier time not holding on to the handles at all and spinning than trying to reach for the handles because I almost have to lift myself up by my finger tips (and can't reach the top of the handles while seated AT ALL).

3. My feet go numb. I have high quality bike shoes with cleats, so the straps aren't an issue. I was fitted at a bike shop and they feel AWESOME when I'm standing in the on the ground. When I spin, I notice that my left foot has a bit of room to slide in the back, but only the left foot. Both feet go numb about 40 min in. I don't think the shoes are too tight, the left one might be slightly loose, but it might also be because I tried to leave them a bit loose this last time to see if that would help with the numbness. It didn't.

4. Is there a proper way to move your feet during the spin? I've heard "like wiping your shoe" motion but I think I'm driving with my toes...

5. Cleat placement: when I was a kid riding my bike outside, the pedals would hit in the middle of the foot. That was a comfortable little nook. The guy at the bike shop attached the cleats at the ball of the foot and it feels weird compared to the little-kid-bike feeling. Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot? Is there a way to tell if they're in the right spot for me? There are a number of tweaks possible with the bike shoes I own.

Thank you for taking the time to read/answer any/all of these questions. I know that this is a whole mess of things in one post but I wanted to keep it consolidated so that I could go back to it to reference later.

I'm coming at this from a cyclist's perspective, not a spinner's, but I'd imagine the differences are negligible. But take it for what it's worth...

1. Seat Height - position the seat such that there is a slight bend in your knee when your foot/pedal is in the lowest position (6 o'clock).
2. How high are the handlbars compared to the saddle? Can the bars be raised/lowered?
   Handlebar position is mostly about comfort... I like mine a little further forward (more reach), but that will put a bit more pressure on your hands/arms/shoulders, and will rotate you a bit forward on the seat, which put pressure in a slightly different spot. Play around with it - I don't think this is a spot where I'd worry about how others look. Be comfortable and stable on the bike.
3. I've had this issue in the past. Adjust the cleat positioning (forward or back). I've also had good luck slightly thicker socks than I'd otherwise go with. It usually comes down to pressure on the ball of your foot. You can also switch to different/larger cleats/pedal, but that probably isn't a good option for you in a spin class setting.
4. Ideally, you do want to be taking advantage of both the up and the down phase of your pedal stroke, but how you make that habit is largely up to you. Wiping you shoe is pretty standard... I've also heard to lead with your heal as you come through the bottom of the stroke (which I personally like), and even to actively pull up on the back of the stroke (which I don't like). It just takes practice and feel. Ultimately you want to keep reasonably even pressure throughout the stroke on both sides. Single-leg drills can help feel this out.
5. See the previous answer regarding foot numbness. Typically triathletes want the cleat a little further back, roadies want it a little further forward (I believe that's right), but ultimately personal preference/feel is 99% of it.

MostlyWater

I'm spinning three times a week for about 7 years. I will try to help you. It's really your instructor's job but here goes ....

Ques #1 - You will never notice if your seat is too low - until you hurt yourself. You will only notice when it's too high. Go as high as you can, in relation to your hips. On a Schwinn, I'm about a 12. On Stages bikes, I'm a 6. I'm five feet, four inches tall.

Ques #2 - It might just take time to get used to. Can you adjust your set all the way forward, as well as the handlebars as close to you as possible? In addition, if you have a peek at you-tube videos of professional cyclists like Lance Armstrong, it might help you with your position. It helped me!

Ques #3 - Where were your cleats put on - a bike shop? Or did you buy them that way? Your local bike shop can help you, too.

Ques #4 - The leg motion is both up and down, not just down. You want to push and pull, not just push. Your feet should ideally be in a flat position, as well.

aeloine

MostlyWater wrote: »

I'm spinning three times a week for about 7 years. I will try to help you. It's really your instructor's job but here goes ....

Ques #1 - You will never notice if your seat is too low - until you hurt yourself. You will only notice when it's too high. Go as high as you can, in relation to your hips. On a Schwinn, I'm about a 12. On Stages bikes, I'm a 6. I'm five feet, four inches tall.

Ques #2 - It might just take time to get used to. Can you adjust your set all the way forward, as well as the handlebars as close to you as possible? In addition, if you have a peek at you-tube videos of professional cyclists like Lance Armstrong, it might help you with your position. It helped me! (What a great idea! Thank you!

Ques #3 - Where were your cleats put on - a bike shop? Or did you buy them that way? Your local bike shop can help you, too. (They were put on at a bike shop by a road guy)

Ques #4 - The leg motion is both up and down, not just down. You want to push and pull, not just push. Your feet should ideally be in a flat position, as well. (In a flat position throughout? When going down, do you push with the ball of your foot or your heel?)

aeloine

jjpptt2 wrote: »

aeloine wrote: »

Good morning everyone!

I've been going to spin class for a couple of weeks now, so I'm past the sore butt phase and I'm starting to look around and notice that I don't quite look like everyone else in terms of form. I have a couple questions that *are* addressed elsewhere on the Internet but I'm still not quite sure I'm understanding all the way.

1. When adjusting the seat height: where is the top of the hip? It is the widest part of your hip? I've seen some people go as high as almost their natural waist in class. I don't know if my set up is correct. I've had an instructor show me and my legs are fine with it but I'm having a hard time with hinging forward and holding on to the handles.

2. The handles should be forearm length from the front of the seat. Got that. But they still feel too far away and the bike won't adjust any more (seat all the way forward, handles all the way back). I'm not short (5'7"), but I'm also not getting the almost horizontal back look that some people have in class. Not sure if my seat is too low (I HAVE played around with it but I'm not actually sure what I'm looking for) or If my belly is getting in the way. I have an easier time not holding on to the handles at all and spinning than trying to reach for the handles because I almost have to lift myself up by my finger tips (and can't reach the top of the handles while seated AT ALL).

3. My feet go numb. I have high quality bike shoes with cleats, so the straps aren't an issue. I was fitted at a bike shop and they feel AWESOME when I'm standing in the on the ground. When I spin, I notice that my left foot has a bit of room to slide in the back, but only the left foot. Both feet go numb about 40 min in. I don't think the shoes are too tight, the left one might be slightly loose, but it might also be because I tried to leave them a bit loose this last time to see if that would help with the numbness. It didn't.

4. Is there a proper way to move your feet during the spin? I've heard "like wiping your shoe" motion but I think I'm driving with my toes...

5. Cleat placement: when I was a kid riding my bike outside, the pedals would hit in the middle of the foot. That was a comfortable little nook. The guy at the bike shop attached the cleats at the ball of the foot and it feels weird compared to the little-kid-bike feeling. Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot? Is there a way to tell if they're in the right spot for me? There are a number of tweaks possible with the bike shoes I own.

Thank you for taking the time to read/answer any/all of these questions. I know that this is a whole mess of things in one post but I wanted to keep it consolidated so that I could go back to it to reference later.

I'm coming at this from a cyclist's perspective, not a spinner's, but I'd imagine the differences are negligible. But take it for what it's worth...

1. Seat Height - position the seat such that there is a slight bend in your knee when your foot/pedal is in the lowest position (6 o'clock).
2. How high are the handlbars compared to the saddle? Can the bars be raised/lowered?
   Handlebar position is mostly about comfort... I like mine a little further forward (more reach), but that will put a bit more pressure on your hands/arms/shoulders, and will rotate you a bit forward on the seat, which put pressure in a slightly different spot. Play around with it - I don't think this is a spot where I'd worry about how others look. Be comfortable and stable on the bike.
3. I've had this issue in the past. Adjust the cleat positioning (forward or back). I've also had good luck slightly thicker socks than I'd otherwise go with. It usually comes down to pressure on the ball of your foot. You can also switch to different/larger cleats/pedal, but that probably isn't a good option for you in a spin class setting.
4. Ideally, you do want to be taking advantage of both the up and the down phase of your pedal stroke, but how you make that habit is largely up to you. Wiping you shoe is pretty standard... I've also heard to lead with your heal as you come through the bottom of the stroke (which I personally like), and even to actively pull up on the back of the stroke (which I don't like). It just takes practice and feel. Ultimately you want to keep reasonably even pressure throughout the stroke on both sides. Single-leg drills can help feel this out.
5. See the previous answer regarding foot numbness. Typically triathletes want the cleat a little further back, roadies want it a little further forward (I believe that's right), but ultimately personal preference/feel is 99% of it.

First of all, thank you @jjpptt2 for taking the time for such a thorough response.

I didn't even think about raising/lowering handle bars. They are certainly mobile and can be moved. I think that maybe raising them is going to be helpful.

I have the larger cleats typically used on road bikes currently on my shoes, as I'm hoping to eventually move outdoors. The bikes at my gym are nifty in that the pedals allow for both types of cleats. The socks are also a really great idea. I've been using rather thin socks to date. I actually think that's a pretty elegant solution to my problem.

Last question: When going down, do you push with the ball of your foot or your heel?

mochapygmy

You have mentioned the seat moving up and down but it also moves closer to the handlebars and farther from the handlebars. It really sounds like you need to move your seat forward so you can reach the handlebars comfortably and you will also be making some space for your belly.

aeloine

mochapygmy wrote: »

You have mentioned the seat moving up and down but it also moves closer to the handlebars and farther from the handlebars. It really sounds like you need to move your seat forward so you can reach the handlebars comfortably and you will also be making some space for your belly.

Unfortunately, it's as far forward as it will go and I have the handlebards as far back as they will go.

RadishEater

Moving the handle bars up and even sliding it back (if that is an option) will help a lot. It took me over a year to be able to hold on to them because my hips are so tight, I used to just lightly hold on with my finger tips. Eventually hopefully sooner rather later you will become more comfortable and flexible.

If you are tight bending your hips forward, it might be a good idea to do stretches to build up flexibility.

I cannot touch my toes sitting on the ground but I am getting slowly closer.

jjpptt2

aeloine wrote: »

jjpptt2 wrote: »

aeloine wrote: »

Good morning everyone!

I've been going to spin class for a couple of weeks now, so I'm past the sore butt phase and I'm starting to look around and notice that I don't quite look like everyone else in terms of form. I have a couple questions that *are* addressed elsewhere on the Internet but I'm still not quite sure I'm understanding all the way.

1. When adjusting the seat height: where is the top of the hip? It is the widest part of your hip? I've seen some people go as high as almost their natural waist in class. I don't know if my set up is correct. I've had an instructor show me and my legs are fine with it but I'm having a hard time with hinging forward and holding on to the handles.

2. The handles should be forearm length from the front of the seat. Got that. But they still feel too far away and the bike won't adjust any more (seat all the way forward, handles all the way back). I'm not short (5'7"), but I'm also not getting the almost horizontal back look that some people have in class. Not sure if my seat is too low (I HAVE played around with it but I'm not actually sure what I'm looking for) or If my belly is getting in the way. I have an easier time not holding on to the handles at all and spinning than trying to reach for the handles because I almost have to lift myself up by my finger tips (and can't reach the top of the handles while seated AT ALL).

3. My feet go numb. I have high quality bike shoes with cleats, so the straps aren't an issue. I was fitted at a bike shop and they feel AWESOME when I'm standing in the on the ground. When I spin, I notice that my left foot has a bit of room to slide in the back, but only the left foot. Both feet go numb about 40 min in. I don't think the shoes are too tight, the left one might be slightly loose, but it might also be because I tried to leave them a bit loose this last time to see if that would help with the numbness. It didn't.

4. Is there a proper way to move your feet during the spin? I've heard "like wiping your shoe" motion but I think I'm driving with my toes...

5. Cleat placement: when I was a kid riding my bike outside, the pedals would hit in the middle of the foot. That was a comfortable little nook. The guy at the bike shop attached the cleats at the ball of the foot and it feels weird compared to the little-kid-bike feeling. Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot? Is there a way to tell if they're in the right spot for me? There are a number of tweaks possible with the bike shoes I own.

Thank you for taking the time to read/answer any/all of these questions. I know that this is a whole mess of things in one post but I wanted to keep it consolidated so that I could go back to it to reference later.

I'm coming at this from a cyclist's perspective, not a spinner's, but I'd imagine the differences are negligible. But take it for what it's worth...

1. Seat Height - position the seat such that there is a slight bend in your knee when your foot/pedal is in the lowest position (6 o'clock).
2. How high are the handlbars compared to the saddle? Can the bars be raised/lowered?
   Handlebar position is mostly about comfort... I like mine a little further forward (more reach), but that will put a bit more pressure on your hands/arms/shoulders, and will rotate you a bit forward on the seat, which put pressure in a slightly different spot. Play around with it - I don't think this is a spot where I'd worry about how others look. Be comfortable and stable on the bike.
3. I've had this issue in the past. Adjust the cleat positioning (forward or back). I've also had good luck slightly thicker socks than I'd otherwise go with. It usually comes down to pressure on the ball of your foot. You can also switch to different/larger cleats/pedal, but that probably isn't a good option for you in a spin class setting.
4. Ideally, you do want to be taking advantage of both the up and the down phase of your pedal stroke, but how you make that habit is largely up to you. Wiping you shoe is pretty standard... I've also heard to lead with your heal as you come through the bottom of the stroke (which I personally like), and even to actively pull up on the back of the stroke (which I don't like). It just takes practice and feel. Ultimately you want to keep reasonably even pressure throughout the stroke on both sides. Single-leg drills can help feel this out.
5. See the previous answer regarding foot numbness. Typically triathletes want the cleat a little further back, roadies want it a little further forward (I believe that's right), but ultimately personal preference/feel is 99% of it.

First of all, thank you @jjpptt2 for taking the time for such a thorough response.

I didn't even think about raising/lowering handle bars. They are certainly mobile and can be moved. I think that maybe raising them is going to be helpful.

I have the larger cleats typically used on road bikes currently on my shoes, as I'm hoping to eventually move outdoors. The bikes at my gym are nifty in that the pedals allow for both types of cleats. The socks are also a really great idea. I've been using rather thin socks to date. I actually think that's a pretty elegant solution to my problem.

Last question: When going down, do you push with the ball of your foot or your heel?

It's not something I'm typically conscious of, but I've always been more of a pedal masher. Most of my drive/force comes on the downstroke and tends to be very quad-centric, if that makes any sense. When I care enough to think about it, I tend to push down through the pedal from about 2 o'clock to 5 o'clock, then flex my toes down and transition into more of a pull effort, as if I was digging a hole in the sand with my toes - very calf/hammy/glute centric, up to about 8 o'clock. I only generate power from that leg/pedal for about half the pedal stroke, and that's when I'm trying to be more even/efficient with my cadence.

kcjchang

Get a profession bike fit and transfer the measurement to the spin bike but if you want to do it yourself try the following:

1. The height of hips have nothing to do with the seat height. Proper seat height should allow for constant velocity of extension of the rear of the knee under significant load. Find a hill that takes at least three minutes to ride up. Warm up thoroughly and then ride up that hill under significant load (see above for definition of significant load). Do you feel like you are riding a step machine or do you feel fluent through the bottom of the stroke on both legs? If you feel equally fluent through the bottom of the pedal stroke on each side, raise your seat 3mm and repeat. If you have to drop the seat, repeat the hill and drop the seat 3mm per time until you feel fluent through the stroke while forcing the gear. If you have to raise the seat, repeat the hill and raise the seat until you feel like you are a touch less fluent on one side than the other. This is an early warning sign that you have entered "challenge" territory. Now drop your seat 6mm. Why not just drop the seat to the last 3mm increment? Because not every day is the best day of your life.
2. Horizontally, the position depends on your effective torso length, pedaling technique, and functionality. Warm up thoroughly and when ready for it, start a sustained effort at around 85% of max heart rate at 95 – 105 rpm. You need to be working hard but not dying in the process. Once in the swing of things, place your hands in the drops and then, when ready, swing your arms back by your hips. Ideally you should be able to teeter on the point of
   balance /without/ arching your back, raising your torso or toppling forward without control. Adjust your seat set back, horizontal positioning first then focus on the stem.
3. "I was fitted at a bike shop.." so why didn't you transfer the bike measurement to the spin bike? If you did so and have the problem, the fit was not very good. Get a new fit or try the above for self fitting. Make sure your knee is tracking naturally, cleat is not toe in or out. If numbness continues try moving the cleat back.
4. Push down on the pedal in a smooth motion throughout the rotation as hard as you can. The need to pull up is rare and you're limited in duration (e.g. sprints, especially jump start; steep hill climb, etc.) General guidance on "pulling up" on the pack stroke been debunked by all of the scientific studies. One actually have a negative pressure on the back stroke. It's natural, don't force it, and help stabilize the opposite leg.
5. "Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot?" Personal preference. Why? Tradition. What's the advantage to move it back? Improved economy but it may be hard to find the right shoes.

MostlyWater

Your foot motion should be with a flat foot ideally.

justlog

This is the best I ever came across.. Perhaps some setup tips here for you..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E4XKo1_tD9c

goatg

You want to keep a flat, relaxed foot when going down. Think of the ball of your foot gentle brushing the ground.

goatg

Also, think of keeping a flat back (not hyperextended, flat).
Your shoulders are back. Your lats are down your back. You’re hinging forward from the hips. Your wrists are shoulder distance apart.
There is a slight bend in your elbows. Your strength comes from total body: your core is engaged all the way from the diaphragm. Supporting your body weight solely with your arms is a compensation. You should be able to lean forward, with a straight back, without touching the handlebars. If you cannot do this, strengthen your core inside class by practicing engaging your core and outside the class with planks, etc.
It’s a lot but it will become habit. Meditative, even. With each inhale your back is straight, shoulders down your back, core engaged, arms relaxed, elbows with a slight bend, neck extended straight gazing slightly forward and downward.
With each exhale you’re pushing down with one leg while simultaneously pulling up with the other. You’re engaging your hamstrings and quads. Your strength is coming from the power of your hips. When you stand, your hips hinge backward, your back remains straight, your hips are stationary (not bouncing), and you power steady through your hips all the way down to your feet. Your feet are flat, gently brushing the ground. At their full extension you feel a comfortable gentle stretch.

I also highly recommend stretching and rolling. Especially the hips as they’ll become super tight.

goatg

Seat height. Not sure if someone said this already, but the seat should be hip bone height when you have your cleats on (actually feel your hip bone).
I like the handlebar height the same approximate height as seat height, but raising it will take pressure off your lower back.
The hardest part to advise on, IMO, is seat position and handlebar position (for torso length). Most people I see in classes look like they’re sitting more upright. If your teacher rides outside I’d ask for help. If not....think of a position that is almost a *comfortable* stretch for your torso. It should be easy for you to hold onto the handlebars and keep your shoulders & lats down.
Also, a lot of people sit way too far forward in their seats. Look down as you’re pedaling. Your knee should not be extending past your toes, ever. Even when pulling upward.

aeloine

@kcjchang you make a lot of great point but some aren't quite valid for me YET. I was fitted for SHOES at a bike shop but do not own a bike. Your second point is interesting and actually sounds like a lot of fun! I'll try this.

I am quite flexible in the forward fold and can reach my hand very comfortable to (and past!) my toes when seated and can place flat palms on the earth without bending my knees when standing.

@goatg I don't think that my back is straight at all when holding on to the handles, but I don't think it's due to a lack in flexibility. I thought it was the bike set up but it might actually be core strength. I definitely ride hunched right now, holding on with just my finger tips. My hamstrings aren't tight, but my quads and front hip flexors could use some help. I will incorporate rolling back into my routine and additional core work.

goatg

aeloine wrote: »

@kcjchang you make a lot of great point but some aren't quite valid for me YET. I was fitted for SHOES at a bike shop but do not own a bike. Your second point is interesting and actually sounds like a lot of fun! I'll try this.

I am quite flexible in the forward fold and can reach my hand very comfortable to (and past!) my toes when seated and can place flat palms on the earth without bending my knees when standing.

@goatg I don't think that my back is straight at all when holding on to the handles, but I don't think it's due to a lack in flexibility. I thought it was the bike set up but it might actually be core strength. I definitely ride hunched right now, holding on with just my finger tips. My hamstrings aren't tight, but my quads and front hip flexors could use some help. I will incorporate rolling back into my routine and additional core work.

I forgot to mention, seriously good job on throwing yourself into this and seeking advice! Nothing compares to having someone show you everything in person. So I’d find an instructor who rides outside and ask for help. In my experience, you’ll be making their day as a new rider who’s enthusiastic to learn and ride outside.:)

aeloine

goatg wrote: »

aeloine wrote: »

@kcjchang you make a lot of great point but some aren't quite valid for me YET. I was fitted for SHOES at a bike shop but do not own a bike. Your second point is interesting and actually sounds like a lot of fun! I'll try this.

I am quite flexible in the forward fold and can reach my hand very comfortable to (and past!) my toes when seated and can place flat palms on the earth without bending my knees when standing.

@goatg I don't think that my back is straight at all when holding on to the handles, but I don't think it's due to a lack in flexibility. I thought it was the bike set up but it might actually be core strength. I definitely ride hunched right now, holding on with just my finger tips. My hamstrings aren't tight, but my quads and front hip flexors could use some help. I will incorporate rolling back into my routine and additional core work.

I forgot to mention, seriously good job on throwing yourself into this and seeking advice! Nothing compares to having someone show you everything in person. So I’d find an instructor who rides outside and ask for help. In my experience, you’ll be making their day as a new rider who’s enthusiastic to learn and ride outside.:)

Thanks! Great advice! My favorite instructor is teaching tomorrow so I'll ask him for some pointers then.

Machka9

aeloine wrote: »

1. When adjusting the seat height: where is the top of the hip? It is the widest part of your hip? I've seen some people go as high as almost their natural waist in class. I don't know if my set up is correct. I've had an instructor show me and my legs are fine with it but I'm having a hard time with hinging forward and holding on to the handles.

Sit on the bicycle and just spin lightly for a minute. Then put your heel on the pedal and rotate the pedal into the 6:00 position (lowest position). You should have a very slight, hardly perceptible bend in your knee. Spin a bit again, and do the same with the other foot to check.

Spin a bit again and then, with the ball of your foot on the pedal, move it into the 3:00 position (forward). Your shin should be straight up and down. If it is not, you can adjust the saddle forward or back.

aeloine wrote: »

3. The handles should be forearm length from the front of the seat. Got that. But they still feel too far away and the bike won't adjust any more (seat all the way forward, handles all the way back). I'm not short (5'7"), but I'm also not getting the almost horizontal back look that some people have in class. Not sure if my seat is too low (I HAVE played around with it but I'm not actually sure what I'm looking for) or If my belly is getting in the way. I have an easier time not holding on to the handles at all and spinning than trying to reach for the handles because I almost have to lift myself up by my finger tips (and can't reach the top of the handles while seated AT ALL).

Adjust the saddle first, as mentioned above. Then adjust the handlebars.

aeloine wrote: »

4. My feet go numb. I have high quality bike shoes with cleats, so the straps aren't an issue. I was fitted at a bike shop and they feel AWESOME when I'm standing in the on the ground. When I spin, I notice that my left foot has a bit of room to slide in the back, but only the left foot. Both feet go numb about 40 min in. I don't think the shoes are too tight, the left one might be slightly loose, but it might also be because I tried to leave them a bit loose this last time to see if that would help with the numbness. It didn't.

Again ... adjust your saddle as mentioned above. That might help.

Also ... see next question below ...

aeloine wrote: »

5. Is there a proper way to move your feet during the spin? I've heard "like wiping your shoe" motion but I think I'm driving with my toes...

The ball of your foot should be on the pedal, not your toes. Your toes should be along for the ride. Also, consciously relax your toes. Don't "grip" with them.

And pedal in circles.

aeloine wrote: »

5. Cleat placement: when I was a kid riding my bike outside, the pedals would hit in the middle of the foot. That was a comfortable little nook. The guy at the bike shop attached the cleats at the ball of the foot and it feels weird compared to the little-kid-bike feeling. Should the cleats be at the ball of the foot? Is there a way to tell if they're in the right spot for me? There are a number of tweaks possible with the bike shoes I own.

Yes, the cleats should be at the ball of the foot.

AnnPT77

I have no good advice, but I have some anti-bad advice:

The hip bones when standing by the bike are seriously irrelevant. What matters is your leg extension when on the bike. Rationale: Thin Ann needs the seat set one notch higher than fat Ann did, because butt fat made a difference in leg extension. The fat raised me higher; with much less fat, seat needs to be higher. Height of hip bones off the floor is totally the same, fat & thin.

Pedal stroke: The scraping the foot thing is kind of OK, but just part of the stroke. Think circles. They can't actually change size, but thinking big circles is somehow more effective.

MostlyWater

Do you wear padded shorts? I swear by mine!

Motorsheen

MostlyWater wrote: »

Your foot motion should be with a flat foot ideally.

This.

You also see rookies dipping their toes on the pedal stroke.
Go flat footed.

And... as mentioned above, pulling up on the pedal stroke isn't a concern. Your power comes from the downward stroke.

kcjchang

Machka9 wrote: »

Yes, the cleats should be at the ball of the foot.

Only on my track bike. Steve Hogg has the most complete discussion I have seen, https://www.stevehoggbikefitting.com/bikefit/2011/04/power-to-the-pedal-cleat-position/, and most (self help discussions on foot pain, e.g. bikeradar, British Cycling, etc, and from fitters I have encountered) advocate moving it back slightly. Unconsciously that how I ride with a platform peddle and consciously move my foot back (ball on the spindle) when pouring on the power (aka sprinting, as far as you can call it that on a cruiser).

aeloine

Thank you so much for all the insight and advice, @machka9 and @AnnPT77 !! I never thought about butt having an impact on height and I'll keep "big circles" in mind!