Need help/advice from people who run with their dog.

Options
24

Replies

  • FrankieB127
    FrankieB127 Posts: 31 Member
    Options
    I've found that if I take my dog for a 30-40 minute walk before running with him, he behaves much better while we're running. I think it gives him time to mark his territory and go #2 if he needs too.
  • RunningRichelle
    RunningRichelle Posts: 346 Member
    Options
    I've also heard that martingale collars are great for dogs that pull- my friend's husky was a terrible puller per-martingale.

    For my husky, we use an electric collar. It has about the zing of static electricity, so not painful, but definitely gets his attention and lets him know that the behavior he is doing at that moment is 100% unwanted, and he desists. It's more expensive than the martingale, though, so I would go with that option first if I had to start over.

    Good luck!
  • emAZn
    emAZn Posts: 413 Member
    Options
    I've also heard that martingale collars are great for dogs that pull- my friend's husky was a terrible puller per-martingale.

    For my husky, we use an electric collar. It has about the zing of static electricity, so not painful, but definitely gets his attention and lets him know that the behavior he is doing at that moment is 100% unwanted, and he desists. It's more expensive than the martingale, though, so I would go with that option first if I had to start over.

    Good luck!

    I use a martingale for my golden/shepherd mix. I she's had one on her ever since she was a puppy so she thinks it's as harsh as a prong collar... lol such a baby... my pit mix though laughs at the martingale and sees it as challenge of how far she can pull before she asphyxiates herself.
  • askcupid117
    askcupid117 Posts: 126 Member
    Options
    I too have a prey driven pitbull mix who loves to lunge off the trail and towards the brown bunnies that live near our neighboorhood. The choke collars did nothing for her. She would choke herself silly and it never stopped her. The gentle leader did work wonders though because it pulls her whole face and head up toward me and it forces her to look at me and helps to break her out of the trance. It takes a few weeks for them to get used to though. And everytime we try a new route it is like she has to re-learn it again. Jogging the same route over and over she seems to realize what she is there to do, jog next to me on the side walk not go hunt prey down. Hope this helps! Don't give up on your dog it is a great work out for them and they really do enjoy once they get the hang of what you want them to do.
  • CoderGal
    CoderGal Posts: 6,800 Member
    Options
    I'm not a fan of the gentle leader, particularly since the dogs I seen them on tended to lunge. It's not pleasant watching a dogs neck snap to the side like that. There's another one out (not sure what the name is) where the leash is on the back so instead of snapping the neck around to the side when they dart (since the leash is attached to the front) it just pushes down on the nose. If your dog has a tenancy to dart, it's going to violently snap the dogs neck to the side. I'd also worry about constantly pulling on one side of his neck if he's a puller, particularly if he doesn't walk well. If he constantly pulls to one side straining one side of the neck cannot be good.

    If you get one, be careful and be aware and in control of how the collar reacts in different situations. Also, be prepared for the furr to potentially rub off his nose.

    1-s2.0-S0168159102001156-gr1.jpg
    My friend has one similar to the bottom left and I like it since it doesn't twist their neck towards you when they pull. There's also a world of difference when I use it (they have 3 boxers, so they sometimes need help for walks lol). I also liked that one because since their head wasn't snapping around, it wasn't rubbing the nose half so much so they weren't losing fur around their noses.
  • jynxxxed
    jynxxxed Posts: 1,010 Member
    Options
    Yup.. Gentle Leader. They're cheap on Amazon.

    It takes more time, but clicker training outdoors to help with prey drive/becoming more obedient in general. Slowly teaching them calm behavior otherwise no fun at all. There are a lot of helpful videos on youtube/all over the internet. The second you walk out the door if there is pulling, go back in and start over. If the dog pulls, you switch direction.

    You'll be going in circles and restarting for a while but the dog WILL eventually become bored and become obedient. Over time this will form a habit and the dog will understand what happens.
  • gracetillman
    gracetillman Posts: 190 Member
    Options
    I have a 90 pound lab who I could control with dental floss he is so obedient -- he is not very good at running though so he doesn't get to go out on runs -- only walks.

    My 65 pound mixed breed who has the strongest hunt/tracking sense was terrible on his leash or harness. He would try to drag you about and your arm hurt so bad he was forced to stay in. He didn't care if he was choking himself he would pull. The harness was worse because he thought he was supposed to pull more. We hired a trainer to work with us and now he is the BEST dog. We use the pronged collar for walking and running ONLY. He learned not to pull very quickly (under about 5 minutes). It was an amazing transformation and he can run now -- he runs/walks even with me on my right side. BUT we take breaks -- he gets about 1 minute of release time where he gets to smell the roses and make his business for every 20 minutes we are out. I get water or take a quick break. It is our agreement and he does wonderful now.
  • cassienoe
    cassienoe Posts: 126 Member
    Options
    If you want to actually train the dog, the gentle leader won't train. Just gives you control of the head so you have more control of the dog. It's a great tool, don't get me wrong. But as soon as it comes off the dog will likely behave the same way. I wouldn't even waste time/money on a martingale, they're less effective than a choke chain.

    When I am competing and training for heel work I make sure I have my dogs' attention, otherwise they go to la-la land and they want to do their own thing. You need SOMETHING that motivates your dog. High Value treats or something (even steak or chicken breast!). If it's a hunting dog get a bird wing..something that makes them want to work. What I do is start walking and as soon as I see them distracted and wanting to go their own way I stop dead in my tracks and turn around and start to walk in the opposite direction. The dog kind of goes "oh wait, what happened?!" and when they catch up with you reward it. I like the clicker to mark the behavior (walking beside me) and treat after a click. When they start to forge ahead of you, again, stop change directions. You will see after awhile they keep closer to you.
  • cassienoe
    cassienoe Posts: 126 Member
    Options
    If you really can't get him trained, try running with him off leash at dog friendly trails, if you have any in the area.

    This is horrible advice. If your dog is not trained the last thing you want to do is take them off leash where you have zero control.
  • contingencyplan
    contingencyplan Posts: 3,639 Member
    Options
    If you want to actually train the dog, the gentle leader won't train. Just gives you control of the head so you have more control of the dog. It's a great tool, don't get me wrong. But as soon as it comes off the dog will likely behave the same way. I wouldn't even waste time/money on a martingale, they're less effective than a choke chain.

    When I am competing and training for heel work I make sure I have my dogs' attention, otherwise they go to la-la land and they want to do their own thing. You need SOMETHING that motivates your dog. High Value treats or something (even steak or chicken breast!). If it's a hunting dog get a bird wing..something that makes them want to work. What I do is start walking and as soon as I see them distracted and wanting to go their own way I stop dead in my tracks and turn around and start to walk in the opposite direction. The dog kind of goes "oh wait, what happened?!" and when they catch up with you reward it. I like the clicker to mark the behavior (walking beside me) and treat after a click. When they start to forge ahead of you, again, stop change directions. You will see after awhile they keep closer to you.

    The high value treat concept is something we've tried over and over again. The problem is that the act of the hunt itself is the only thing that rewards him. He does not respond to any food you try to give him while he is in his hunting mentality, and if you stop so he can't go anymore, he seems go into a sort of panic. Outdoors, he seems to enter into a state of mind where he needs the freedom to move around as much as he does air to breathe. If I try to get him to heel, he seems to go into some sort of semi-panicked state, similar to what you would see from a claustrophobic locked in a closet.
  • kaned_ferret
    kaned_ferret Posts: 618 Member
    Options
    Try a prong collar. Do your research first though so you are aware of exactly how to use it. It has done wonders for my GSD
    http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

    This is the most barbaric advice and piece of equipment. why should pain be used as a fallback for poor training?

    For the record I am a dog trainer and have worked with thousands of dogs, and am thankful these awful devices are comparitively rarely used in my country.

    From a pure health and safety perspective, you want to run with the dog on a harness ideally, not any form of neck or head collar. As you have identified, training needs to take place first. I would recommend a few of the following videos on youtube to help you there:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvSxr2uA16M

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5O5VY7RbsdM

    From a motivation perspective, using premack would work nicely here as food rewards are not identified as high value enough (I'm presuming you've tried things like beef, duck, sausage, cheese etc?)
  • Joreanasaurous
    Joreanasaurous Posts: 1,384 Member
    Options
    Try a prong collar. Do your research first though so you are aware of exactly how to use it. It has done wonders for my GSD
    http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

    One concern to keep in mind with a pronged collar is if your dog ever bites someone or gets into a fight, in a civil suit the person sueing you can bring up the use of a pronged collar to show your lack of control over your dog which = negligence.
  • kaned_ferret
    kaned_ferret Posts: 618 Member
    Options
    here's another nice one. I would encourage you to look into clicker training as a method to teach this as it is incredibly successful when done right

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLkZNfZNQmo
  • 3dogsrunning
    3dogsrunning Posts: 27,167 Member
    Options
    Try a prong collar. Do your research first though so you are aware of exactly how to use it. It has done wonders for my GSD
    http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

    One concern to keep in mind with a pronged collar is if your dog ever bites someone or gets into a fight, in a civil suit the person sueing you can bring up the use of a pronged collar to show your lack of control over your dog which = negligence.

    I have never seen or heard that before. That's a little far fetched. A prong collar is a training tool and is used to give a correction, not unlike other tools.

    As others have mentioned I'm not generally a fan of the GL but the fact that he has been through two training classes with no success it is the lesser of two evils.
  • 3dogsrunning
    3dogsrunning Posts: 27,167 Member
    Options
    here's another nice one. I would encourage you to look into clicker training as a method to teach this as it is incredibly successful when done right

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLkZNfZNQmo

    What do you suggest as a reward for the clicker?
  • Jewles1285
    Jewles1285 Posts: 119
    Options
    Try a prong collar. Do your research first though so you are aware of exactly how to use it. It has done wonders for my GSD
    http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

    what she said...i call it a pinch collar. When they pull it makes it uncomfortable for then. It has worked wonders for my GSD as well!
  • cassienoe
    cassienoe Posts: 126 Member
    Options
    here's another nice one. I would encourage you to look into clicker training as a method to teach this as it is incredibly successful when done right

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLkZNfZNQmo

    What do you suggest as a reward for the clicker?

    Whatever the dog responds to
  • 3dogsrunning
    3dogsrunning Posts: 27,167 Member
    Options
    here's another nice one. I would encourage you to look into clicker training as a method to teach this as it is incredibly successful when done right

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLkZNfZNQmo

    What do you suggest as a reward for the clicker?

    Whatever the dog responds to

    I believe that is part of the issue here. The dog is not motivated by food or toys.
  • Joreanasaurous
    Joreanasaurous Posts: 1,384 Member
    Options
    Try a prong collar. Do your research first though so you are aware of exactly how to use it. It has done wonders for my GSD
    http://leerburg.com/fit-prong.htm

    One concern to keep in mind with a pronged collar is if your dog ever bites someone or gets into a fight, in a civil suit the person sueing you can bring up the use of a pronged collar to show your lack of control over your dog which = negligence.

    I have never seen or heard that before. That's a little far fetched. A prong collar is a training tool and is used to give a correction, not unlike other tools.

    As others have mentioned I'm not generally a fan of the GL but the fact that he has been through two training classes with no success it is the lesser of two evils.

    I worked in a lawyer's office. It isn't far fetched at all.
  • srslybritt
    srslybritt Posts: 1,618 Member
    Options
    My dogs have all had Gentle Leaders. They're fairly inexpensive (I think les than $20) and you can find them pretty much anywhere. Way more humane and they generally respond well to it. My golden retriever even stopped needing hers after a while. :)

    ETA: Somehow, I managed to miss the GL talk above. Whoops. Still an advocate regardless.