Cyclists-Expert advice appreciated!
Replies
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Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)
Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.
^^This, so true. And, you know, it's okay to have more than one bike for different rides. Really.
I.........I just can't. Have a nice day.
You're fooling yourself, Pedal pusher. You know you really want to put on that spandex and deal with cars being in the way.:bigsmile:0 -
In the UK, a "Proper" road bike starts around £500 and you will notice the difference as a beginner up to around £1000, maybe £1500 at a push.... I ride a £500 bike with people who regularly do +100 miles and have no problem keeping up (with the girls. Over 20-30 miles....).
If you can get a second hand bike which fits at £500 you will be in very good shape - and if you want something better you wont loose much money if you sell it on.
Save some money for the rest of the gear - cleats (pedals and shoes) are well worth investing in - expect to spend about £150 in total for reasonable quality stuff. Good shorts and a helmet is a must. you will want glasses too unless you like getting flies in your eyes at 20mph.
As for the bike manufacturer - it really depends on your body.Different shaped frames suit different people so try a few out.
Colour co-ordination is a must, so get a bike which you don't mind accessorising with.0 -
For starters, you're going to want to figure out what size you need...likely you will need to go get fitted. Having a bike that is too small or too big means not very much fun riding.
I currently own a cross bike...when I got into all of this I really sat down and thought about what I was likely to be doing most of the time. I ultimately determined that while I would love a road bike, most of my riding would be done on rougher roads (not well maintained rural roads) so a road bike was going to be pretty brittle for that task. I ultimately went with a cross bike...I throw commuter slicks on it for road riding and I've done a couple 1/2 centuries on it...I'm not going to win the Tour de Anything with this bike, but I have fun and finish rides. I'm planning on a full century next spring.
Bonus is that I actually got into cyclocross racing which wasn't even on my radar...I simply went with the cross bike because it had a similar geometry to a road bike but was a bit more heavy duty...discovering actual cross racing was a hug bonus. My 2nd season starts up here in a couple weeks and I am pumped....
All that said, if you're really wanting to race road...either endurance or criteriums, you're going to need a road bike. I'd personally start in the used market...you're still going to drop some cash for a good used road bike, but not nearly as much as you will new...and you can use this purchase to help determine what if anything you will need in the future.0 -
You guys are awesome, thanks again for all the advice....have not had a chance to weed through it all but from what I can tell this is going to be invaluable as I move forward. I will start by taking the consensus of opinions and visit my local bike shop.....I am a cheapskate so always looking for a deal on Craigslist, etc but it sounds like this is something I may need to be willing to bite the bullet and pay to have done properly (fitting, etc)...Thanks again guys!0
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Find a Felt Dealer and see if they have a Z100 in your size. Fantastic entry level endurance bike at under $800. With helmet/shoes/shorts/etc figure on spending $1200 out the door and into your new addiction
http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2015/Bikes/road/endurance/z100.aspx0 -
Some good advice above, but just one thing I'd add: it's an old saying among cyclists that the purpose of your first bike is to help you figure out what you need for your second bike.
So don't drop mega=$ on your first bike. I agree having a look at your LBS is a good idea. Department store bikes are overall much lower quality.
If at all possible, think about bke commuting to work or for some of your errands, riding to the gym, or whatever. It works a lot better if you can get it into your daily routine. Burn kCal instead of gas!
YUP. I'd say try to keep that first bike sub $1500, because you'll quickly learn what you want or don't want, and then you'll be looking for bikes 2x+. At the price point though, you can still keep it for training purposes.
Don't go gel for a saddle, and get good pedals. A saddle shouldn't be "comfortable", but stiff and well shaped. In the long run it will be more comfortable than those silly gel thingies.
Get a good fit done, but for a first bike you don't need to go the route of getting a full fit from a pro fitter. Save that for bike two and make it part of the purchase.
Get some decent midgrade drivetrain parts, like Shimano 105. You get a solid price to performance ratio with those. Also, get something with a carbon front fork and carbon seat post, paired to the lightest frame you can afford.
Be sure to keep a budget for:
1. Bike Shorts
2. Cycling boots and pedals
3. Pump, tubes, patching and tools for maintenance
4. Helmet
5. Cycling computer
Bikes won't generally come with pedals, those are extra. Same with lights and a computer.0 -
What do you mean? lol.
6366kcal... WTF!
Two full hard training days worth of calories... in one session. Exactly, that's what I mean!
My goodness, that is insane :P
The max distance I've rode is 130km, and I felt pretty sick after it. Almost like if I could feel my muscles eating themselves. It just doesn't feel right to me, lol.
Kudos for the 100mil ride!0 -
I should mention that the calorie count is way off I would assume. I don't use a HR monitor so it's pretty inflated. I would think more like 3K-3500 in reality.0
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1. Yes, to the LBS. Go in tell them what you want to spend, then discuss what you are getting for your money, and what you'd get for less and/or more. A good bike shop won't try and just sell you want you want.
2. No, you don't (or won't) have to lose large amounts of muscle to be a distance rider. The muscle won't benefit you much but unless you are REALLY serious I wouldn't worry about it. My husband races MTB and is still a pretty muscular guy.
3. I second the recommendation to think about a CX bike instead of a road. What kind of terrain are you riding? I'm looking at one just because most of my road riding will be done in the winter when conditions aren't the best.
4.And disk brakes are awesome.0 -
Learn how to change a tyre .. out on the road you may not have tools so - learn to take a tyre off with just your hands (oh and put it back on again :-p )
Good tip if you don't have a pump/repair kits etc with you ... fill the tyre with grass .. it will get you home.0 -
Learn how to change a tyre .. out on the road you may not have tools so - learn to take a tyre off with just your hands (oh and put it back on again :-p )
(Good tip if you don't have a pump/repair kits etc with you ... fill the tyre with grass .. it will get you home.)
Fill the tire (tyre) with grass, what a brilliant idea, I never heard of that, thanks for sharing! It just may save me some walking someday.:flowerforyou:0 -
I will recommend that you not buy a hybrid. They are generally less expensive, but are intended for people not serious about riding and use cheaper components. I promise you that very few people are happy with a hybrid purchase.
I agree with pretty much everything you said, except this. I owned a top-of-the-line hybrid for several years--they'd call it a "flat-bar road bike" nowadays--and absolutely loved it. It handled better on fast downhills and in corners than the road bike I bought to replace it. Nice wide-range gearing with a mountain-bike cassette and triple chainring, decent mid-level components. Nothing like the wide-tired semi-cruisers they call "hybrids" now.
OP, definitely try out different kinds of bikes at the LBS, and have them fit whatever you choose properly. A cyclocross (CX) bike would be a versatile option. I've customized my road bike to where it's almost a CX bike, to handle rough country roads. I also ride a tadpole recumbent trike, which is great fun, and am learning to ride a front-wheel-drive two-wheeled recumbent (significant learning curve, but also fun).0 -
Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)
Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.
Aren't you sharp as a tack. It was a joke.
Apparently not much of a joke, since nobody gets it but you.0 -
You guys are awesome, thanks again for all the advice....have not had a chance to weed through it all but from what I can tell this is going to be invaluable as I move forward. I will start by taking the consensus of opinions and visit my local bike shop.....I am a cheapskate so always looking for a deal on Craigslist, etc but it sounds like this is something I may need to be willing to bite the bullet and pay to have done properly (fitting, etc)...Thanks again guys!
I'm coming late to the show, but I would suggest getting in touch with a local bike club, as well as checking out a few shops. The Houston Bike Club has a page with some of its members' bikes, to give you an idea of what people ride:
http://www.houstonbicycleclub.org/Pages/bikes.aspx
A couple of great online resources are Sheldon Brown's bike pages, including a page for beginners, and John Allen's free online pamphlet Bicycle Street Smarts:
http://sheldonbrown.com/articles.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html
http://bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/index.htm
Be forewarned that there are some aspects of cycling that, for some people, take on almost religious overtones:
Frame material: steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, titanium (and occasionally odd materials like bamboo)?
Helmets: should they be mandatory? should I wear one?
Pedals and shoes: "clipless" pedals with cleats? Toe clips? Platform pedals and street shoes?
Tires: skinny and high pressure or wide and moderate pressure?
Shifting: integrated brake/shifter levers, or something else (bar end or downtube)?
Handlebars: as low as possible ("slammed"), just below the saddle, or higher?
If someone starts insisting that there is only one true way to answer any of these questions, smile, nod, and back away slowly....
There's a parody (at least I think it's a parody) of some aspects of bike racing culture here:
http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/
For an antidote, get your public library to order a copy of Grant Petersen's book _Just Ride_ if they don't already have it.0 -
As a long-time bike commuter with a couple of bikes, if I have to recommend one bike for someone who is starting out, I recommend a commuter/hybrid. It'll be easier to ride around than a mountain bike, but it'll be a little tougher/more durable than a road bike. Overall a great bike to have. It'll also be really easy for you to incorporate into a bike commuting routine, if you want to go that route. I saw some other comments upthread about hybrids not being high quality or not lasting very long; it depends on the bike. My husband has used a hybrid bike as his primary form of transportation through long, hard Wisconsin winters (full of ice, snow, road salt, minor collisions, you name it) for three years now. He gets it serviced a couple times a year, because when you ride as much as he does, there is no part at any price point that will last forever... but overall, the bike (a Jamis) has lasted really well. Mine, a Kona Dew, has also stayed in terrific shape.
Always wear a helmet. I was a rider who went sans helmet for years, and finally wised up about it a year or two ago. I ride on roads; it's not worth risking putting myself into a vegetable state should I get in an accident. Also, while you're looking at safety gear, get flashing front and rear lights, and use them whenever it's less than sunny out. I use mine in early mornings and a little bit before dusk; I even use them on very cloudy days. You can never be too visible.
Of all the wearable bike gear you should have, some padded shorts are the most important. You don't need a jersey. You don't need special shoes. (They can increase your performance, but you don't need them.) Padded shorts will literally save your a** though. You can even wear them under other pants or shorts if you think they look silly.
And I'm going to throw in another vote for just going to your local bike shop, talking to the people there, and trying out a few bikes. They should be able to let you try a few things, and you'll figure it out pretty quickly from there. Last time I bought a bike, I ended up taking a few for a spin that I thought were all pretty similar; once I rode them, though, the winner was super obvious to me. In my experience, bike shop staff are extremely friendly and knowledgeable, and will be able to give you really customized advice as to what you should be riding.0 -
Not a lot to add since the basics have been covered other than to mention there's a cycling group here on MFP --
http://www.myfitnesspal.com/forums/show/361-bicycling-road-and-mountain0 -
What do you mean? lol.
6366kcal... WTF!
Two full hard training days worth of calories... in one session. Exactly, that's what I mean!
My goodness, that is insane :P
The max distance I've rode is 130km, and I felt pretty sick after it. Almost like if I could feel my muscles eating themselves. It just doesn't feel right to me, lol.
Kudos for the 100mil ride!
Yeah, like Hornsby said, you can pretty much take 50-60% of that burn seriously. Still...so long as you know how to fuel yourself, it's not biggie....
One of the things I loved about century training was eating all the foodz baby...I was a garbage disposal and was still losing like 1/2 Lb per week during training. It was awesome....think I'll do it again.0 -
The only problem with training for a century? 4hours+ in the saddle SUCKS.
Your *kitten*, so pained.0 -
You may want to think about cycle commuting to and from work if it's doable, a great way to fit cycling into your everday routine and saving money if you use a car or public transport.0
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What do you mean? lol.
6366kcal... WTF!
Two full hard training days worth of calories... in one session. Exactly, that's what I mean!
My goodness, that is insane :P
The max distance I've rode is 130km, and I felt pretty sick after it. Almost like if I could feel my muscles eating themselves. It just doesn't feel right to me, lol.
Kudos for the 100mil ride!
Yeah, like Hornsby said, you can pretty much take 50-60% of that burn seriously. Still...so long as you know how to fuel yourself, it's not biggie....
One of the things I loved about century training was eating all the foodz baby...I was a garbage disposal and was still losing like 1/2 Lb per week during training. It was awesome....think I'll do it again.
I also ate/drank probably 600 per hour so really, the calorie burn is a wash.0 -
You guys are awesome, thanks again for all the advice....have not had a chance to weed through it all but from what I can tell this is going to be invaluable as I move forward. I will start by taking the consensus of opinions and visit my local bike shop.....I am a cheapskate so always looking for a deal on Craigslist, etc but it sounds like this is something I may need to be willing to bite the bullet and pay to have done properly (fitting, etc)...Thanks again guys!
I'm coming late to the show, but I would suggest getting in touch with a local bike club, as well as checking out a few shops. The Houston Bike Club has a page with some of its members' bikes, to give you an idea of what people ride:
http://www.houstonbicycleclub.org/Pages/bikes.aspx
A couple of great online resources are Sheldon Brown's bike pages, including a page for beginners, and John Allen's free online pamphlet Bicycle Street Smarts:
http://sheldonbrown.com/articles.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/beginners.html
http://sheldonbrown.com/glossary.html
http://bikexprt.com/streetsmarts/usa/index.htm
Be forewarned that there are some aspects of cycling that, for some people, take on almost religious overtones:
Frame material: steel, aluminum, carbon fiber, titanium (and occasionally odd materials like bamboo)?
Helmets: should they be mandatory? should I wear one?
Pedals and shoes: "clipless" pedals with cleats? Toe clips? Platform pedals and street shoes?
Tires: skinny and high pressure or wide and moderate pressure?
Shifting: integrated brake/shifter levers, or something else (bar end or downtube)?
Handlebars: as low as possible ("slammed"), just below the saddle, or higher?
If someone starts insisting that there is only one true way to answer any of these questions, smile, nod, and back away slowly....
There's a parody (at least I think it's a parody) of some aspects of bike racing culture here:
http://www.velominati.com/the-rules/
For an antidote, get your public library to order a copy of Grant Petersen's book _Just Ride_ if they don't already have it.
I'm sorry but I cant let the "should a helmet be mandatory" bit of this pass without comment - everything else is down to personal taste but I know 4-5 people who's lives have been saved by their helmets. (3 road, 2 mtb) In my opinion , no helmet, no ride.0 -
Re calories - Road Cycling at 16-20 mph (fast cruise) burns ~50 cals per mile for an average weight guy (say 170lb). Running, for comparison, is about 120 cals per mile but a cruise only 7mph - so you get about the same burn per hour (8-900).
so depending on the weight of the rider the computer might be out by 20% but that is still a hell of a burn. RE eating, after the first 1000 Kcals you've got to start putting serious calories back into your body! at least 40-50% of them, else you cant keep going.0 -
What do you mean? lol.
6366kcal... WTF!
Two full hard training days worth of calories... in one session. Exactly, that's what I mean!
My goodness, that is insane :P
The max distance I've rode is 130km, and I felt pretty sick after it. Almost like if I could feel my muscles eating themselves. It just doesn't feel right to me, lol.
Kudos for the 100mil ride!
6366kCal is probably way over, as everyone has said, including yourself - my century on sunday (http://app.strava.com/activities/184726920) burned up around 3200-3500kcals - as calculated by Strava from my powermeter data - and that's on a 6 and a half hour ride, for a guy who's 51 and 1m85 and 113kg...0 -
OK, we are way off topic from the original post, but here is a bike thread where calories for century rides are discussed at length
http://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/231626-calories-burned-century-why-ou-can-ride-100-miles-not-loose-weight.html0 -
OP- - -first, consider location of the bike shop and their ability to fit you and allow for test rides. What you spend on a bike depends on what you desire in terms of the bike parts and demands you place on the bike. Ideally find a shop which provide maintenance and ideas on timing of maintenance required. If you are fortunate to find a good local shop and someone with a good racing/riding knowledge they are invaluable. For me, cycling is fourth after running, lifting, and swimming. As others have indicated a good pair of cycling shorts will save you from 'cycling butthurt'. They feel like a saggy diaper but provide the comfort you'll need for longer rides. Best of luck; my bike is Trek FX which provides enough comfort for longer distances in the country and durable enough for the city with the potholes where a baby elephant has disappeared on more then one occasion.0
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