Road Bike Advice??

novatri

I'm thinking of upgrading from my 10 yo chromoly mountain bile to a road bike. Probably and aluminum frame with carbon fork. But what crank should I aim for? There are hills in my area that I want to be able to ride without bonking. I've heard a triple crank is the way to go. And people at bike store seem to push the compact cranks.

Hoping to find a good closeout deal on a Specialized Roubaix. Think I'd prefer the more relaxed riding position it offers.

EZGruv

A triple crank with a granny gear will let you spin over any hill, albeit at 2mph.
Find a DECENT bike shop that will listen to you, and fit you for a proper bike.

Good luck!

hroush

I've never had any problems with the "standard" two gear front with going over steep hills. I say save the money on the front crank because with a road bike you'll have a lot less resistance to fight, making it much easier to pedal.

RunRideRay

I think the compact crank is a good compromise. The main issue with the triple is how it exaggerates chain whip. Basically, if you are in your largest chainring you should not use the smaller gears on your cluster, and inversely so with the granny chainring and the smallest cog. You do not want the chain at that steep of an angle, it will stretch it and loosen the links.

some other simple options for the compact crank
> get a smaller inner chainring
> get a cluster with a 32 tooth largest cog, and see if they might swap the derailuer for an MTB style with larger reach.

If the compact crank is still intimidating, you can always look at a cyclocross bike which usually has even lower gearing in a double. That's a nice option too, because with slicks it feels just like a road bike, but with the aggressive tires it is good for trails.

Good Luck!!!
Ray

bsexton3

Novatri--Actually, I own an year old Roubaix with a triple crank. It was a year old model, so it was a 2009. There was a flaw in the carbon, so I got a 2010 Pro frame under warrantee. I am told that there really isn't much difference between a double and a triple. I seldom use one of the front rings. If the double was less money than the triple, I would get the double.

I can say a Roubaix will make it up any hill. But, you are dealing with a full carbon frame. I climbed up Stevens Pass in Washington on this at about 7 miles an hour. Most hills I climb at 11 miles an hour.

On sale, it costs $1,200. That is what the shop was offering of last years model this year as well.

When buying a real road bike, you are buying a shop more than a bike. Trek has something like the Specialized. I would not only look for one on sale, but a good shop that the crew seems helpful and will be there beyond the sale. Seeing the people bringing in their bikes to the shop I bought my bike at is why I got it there. Buy the shop. The components and the frames are not that much difference.

Good luck.

BTW, there is a MFP Cycling forum. We discuss everything about cycling. Come and join us.

gtm124

I have 2000 miles on my 09 Specialized Roubaix Expert. Love it. It has the triple crank with Ultegra compo . I had a Jamis Quest steel frame with carbon forks with a double crank (11-28T) and I liked it as well, but needed to sell one. You can get different cassettes for it for your riding needs. The steel to me rides as comfortably as the carbon. I would opt for steel over aluminum.

I agree. Get to a bike shop and find the geometry and size you feel comfortable with. Good luck in your search.

RobAsRx

I'm not a pro and there is some great advise in here. I bought a 2010 Cannondale CAAD9 and it's done me quite well! I've put a little over 400 miles on it since January. I started out riding about 8-10 miles, than 20, 30, 40 and now 50+! The bike is now about 50 lbs lighter, wait... that's me! This is my first "real" road bike (I had a Trek but I wasn't serious enough to even use it as comparison) and it has done the job climbing (3 gears on the crank - not sure of make or type... I'm still a noob) and can really fly, even with a guy my size on it.

You may want to look at the 2011 CAAD10 since you're looking for an alluminum wtih a carbon fork. Had I known what I know now, I'd have spent a little more for the CAAD10, since I'm going to eventually upgrade my CAAD9 to similar specs anyway.

Good luck and happy riding!

Rob

novatri

I have 2000 miles on my 09 Specialized Roubaix Expert. Love it. It has the triple crank with Ultegra compo . I had a Jamis Quest steel frame with carbon forks with a double crank (11-28T) and I liked it as well, but needed to sell one. You can get different cassettes for it for your riding needs. The steel to me rides as comfortably as the carbon. I would opt for steel over aluminum.

I agree. Get to a bike shop and find the geometry and size you feel comfortable with. Good luck in your search.

on average what is the weight difference between steel frame and aluminum? My current bike is just over 33 lbs.
I think the CAAD9 is a great bike. I'm hearing that the included components maybe have to be replaced at purchase. I'm keeping my options open. Hoping to maybe grab a good closeout. Tomorrow I think I may get mtb speed clips with shoes. I can use them on my current bike and just cannibalize them when/if I upgrade.

bsexton3

[/quote]

on average what is the weight difference between steel frame and aluminum? My current bike is just over 33 lbs.
I think the CAAD9 is a great bike. I'm hearing that the included components maybe have to be replaced at purchase. I'm keeping my options open. Hoping to maybe grab a good closeout. Tomorrow I think I may get mtb speed clips with shoes. I can use them on my current bike and just cannibalize them when/if I upgrade.
[/quote]

"The latest Bicycling mag gives the weight of the CAAD9 Optimo2 (56cm) at 18.2 lbs w/compact & 12/25 cassette & not light (by current standards) Shimano R561 wheelset."

"My 2010 CAAD 9 4 (Rival) 54cm, new, with Shimano 105 pedals, one alloy cage (no bottle) and no Cateye clamps or anything was like 18.3 Lbs"

Found these quotes on-line. Also, the weight of the frame is like 10% the weight of the bike. The difference between a steel-aluminum to a carbon is only going to be between 2-3 pounds for a similar style frame. It is everything else that weights more. The frame is not going to give the average rider more speed and more weight. I carry more weight in terms of food and clothing than my frame weighs.

Ride Safe

RunRideRay

Precisely right on frame, it is about 2-3 lbs between Aluminum/Carbon to Steel. The real place to watch the grams is the wheels, any rotating mass is what makes the most difference.

I have 5 bikes, have owned many more, and logged several thousand miles on Aluminum, Carbon, and Steel. I offer my synthesis.

Aluminum, a rider (myself included) usually rides it until they can afford carbon. My back was very thankful to upgrade to carbon.

Carbon, what's not to love, light, fast, smooth, but take care of the frame size and shape. I pay particular attention to how the layup is done near the bottom bracket. That is where I notice some flex.

Steel, hands-down the best ride for me. I do notice the weight compared to my carbon bikes, but it is oooh so buttery smooth and what I often pick. I actually have 3 steel bikes now, a steel fixie, a Gary Fisher cross, and a road bike.

I'll also second (or third) the opinion on components, to me that is almost more critical than frame. A consideration, Jenson USA has some sweet gruppo clearances that any LBS can build on a frame of your choice. It could be a way to get exactly what you want.

Wow, what great advice from everyone. Shopping for a bike is sorta like the arduous debate over who to ask to prom...haha.

Ray