Running/Jogging vs Cycling

Maybe you can still run? Maybe you just did too much, too soon and got an over use injury? Running is nothing something I would exactly count out yet..

As for a bike, if you go to a bike store, they will tell you what size bike you need. I would try and go with a hybrid, they are good for light trails, and concrete. If you need to go cheap, you can get one at Wal-Mart or similar store, and that will be fine for now. Biking is a lot of fun, good luck!

I can't help you on what kind of bike it pick but you over did yourself running. You need to take a week break or so and then start out slowly. I can even overdue myself now and I have been running since January. I have figured out my limit is two long runs a week, I cannot do more than two 7+ mile runs a week or else my right knee starts to kill me.

Yeah, last time I got a bike, I went to a fancy, high-end store so that I could get expert help and test rides lots of kinds of bikes, and I wrote down what I liked, what size frame I needed, etc., and searched for a cheaper one online.

My hero, you wasted a store employee's time to save a few bucks? Had you bought the bike from the bricks and mortar store chances are you be getting a free fitting, a couple of free tune-ups etc included in the price. Don't complain when they charge you to service the bike if it needs it in the future.

People shop around all the time, and go for the cheaper one. There is NOTHING wrong with trying to save money.

i've never been a fan or running so i'm all for the switch :P

I'd go to a bike store and get some advice. they might even sell used bikes there!

your other option, for low impact cardio is swimming. the equipment is cheap :P but a gym membership might not be

Hi Sandy - I am not sure if you are in the USA or UK but over here in the UK we have employer assisted deals where you can buy a bike, primarily for commuting to work but also for personal use, through a governemnt scheme that enables you to buy a bike at a lower rate and divide down the payments.

That way you get more bike for your buck!

Any good?

Yeah, last time I got a bike, I went to a fancy, high-end store so that I could get expert help and test rides lots of kinds of bikes, and I wrote down what I liked, what size frame I needed, etc., and searched for a cheaper one online.

My hero, you wasted a store employee's time to save a few bucks? Had you bought the bike from the bricks and mortar store chances are you be getting a free fitting, a couple of free tune-ups etc included in the price. Don't complain when they charge you to service the bike if it needs it in the future.

People shop around all the time, and go for the cheaper one. There is NOTHING wrong with trying to save money.

You're right, there's nothing wrong with trying to save money but there's also value to the services she received and, from the sounds of it, didn't give the bricks and mortar shop a chance to match the price. There's also more to value than price.......

Not to mention that the store provided an employee to assist in making sure you would have all the information needed and were making an informed decision. Shop online for that and see what you find. Shopping around is fine, but do your own research instead of asking a store you have no intention of buying from to pay for that research.

I am hoping some knowledgeable cyclist will read this and wish to evangelize his/her sport the way runners do and help me out a bit?

I am a recent convert to the cult of cycling, and I logged about a thousand miles this summer. Fun times!

Bike fit is important, the same way shoe fit is important, and until you have an operational knowledge of how a bike is supposed to fit, it can be difficult to buy a used bike. I would recommend you go to your local bike shop (LBS, in the lingo). You will pay more, but you'll get the expertise and the backstop of the shop. Improper bike fit is the source of probably 80% (a guess) of bike issues. If you can find a LBS that sells used stuff, that's probably a good compromise. My first bike, out the door with helmet, was right at $450. It's a lot, but you get what you pay for.

I would ignore all department store bikes, because they are heavier, with crappier materials, and you'll have no idea who put it together, or what they know about bike assembly.

If you don' t know what shop to go to, find a local cycling club and email one of their members for tips. Once you have an a bigger knowledge base, you can buy a used bike. If you do decide to buy a used bike, spend a few hours reading over the articles online to get an idea of what you need in terms of sizing and what to look for in terms of overall condition.

A couple of general tips: (a) bike shorts are awesome, even though they are stupid looking; (b) clip-in pedals are a must once you get serious about riding, but expect to fall about a dozen times learning; and (c) picking a saddle is hard, getting a saddle positioned properly is an art more than a science, and if you are getting saddle sores or blisters, your saddle is positioned wrong.

Choosing a bike, in my mind, depends on use. A typical ride for me is 20 to 40 miles; to get an idea of distance in comparison to running, take your running distance times four. The question is then, where are you going to ride? I am lucky in that we have some great trails in the Chicago area, and some great roads to ride on. If there are trails available, then the questions is whether they are dirt/gravel/crushed limestone, or paved?

If you plan to ride on roads, a road bike is the right choice. A flat-bar bike will be the most comfortable to get started, but soon (within a few months or 300 miles), you will likely want to go to a full-on drop-bar road bike.

If you plan on trail riding, for paved trails, a flat-bar bike with smooth-tread tires (but larger than the tyipcal 700c x23 road tires) is a good choice.

A hybrid bike, with flat bars and somewhat knobby tires, is a good compromise, but it is a compromise across the board. My hybrid was my first bike, and is now the one I ride the least.

A mountain bike (especially a dual-suspension mountain bike) is a different animal altogether, for a different sport.

For limestone trails, a flat bar bike with more aggressive tires is a good choice. A drop-bar bike with more aggressive tires (often called a "cross" or "cyclocross" bike) is wonderful choice, but not as common.

Also, remember to wear a helmet.

Debralous has a good point about too much distance for a beginner. I'm on W4 and I'm still only doing about 1.5mi during my intervals, with another about 0.5mi from my warm-up and cool-down walks. (For reference, 5k = 3.1mi) If you'd really like to keep running, try following the program exactly and just do other exercises if you feel like you need to do more in a day. I promise you'll get to a point where you'll feel like you've had a legitimate workout!