Running with dogs
So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.
The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.
The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.
Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.
The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.
The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.
Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.
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Replies
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No advice?
Boo! 0 -
I have a boxer, he just turned 5, so he's a little more settled down than he used to be. The more I ran with him, the better he got about cutting me off. Yours will eventually get the hang of it the more you take him out. Just takes practice.0
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Tie the leash to the postal truck. they go pretty slow0
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I have small dogs, but I've put them on a harness and keep the leash short. It helps too if I keep treats with me in my pocket. I let the dog know it's there, and it keeps their attention more on me than on passerbys or that very interesting rock over there. Go slow at first, and praise praise praise immediately when she behaves the way you want her to.0
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Do dogs need to be trained for this? I have a dog that if I tried to run with her, she would bolt and probably drag me. I don't think she understands or would know "jogging." Maybe if I kept the leash short? She's about 1 1/2 so she is always energized and ready.0
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train your dog to properly walk on a leash and you won't have any issue.0
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I have a Stunt Puppy running leash (bought from Amazon) that really helps. There is a belt that fits around the runner's waist that is attached to a short bungee-style leash. It does take a while to get your dog used to running steady, but I've found that my dog gets it now, and when I see her start to stop and smell, I tell her "RUN!" and she picks up the pace again.0
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My dog and I just run side by side on treadmills like on I am Legend.0
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I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.0 -
Train your dog to walk on a leash propperly and running will be easy. You are the leader of the pack and the dog follows you and stops only when you say so.0
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I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.
controlling your dog on a leash has nothing to do with how experienced of a runner you are. If you can walk a dog you should be able to run with a dog.0 -
Have you tried a gentle leader with a short leash?0
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I have been running with my pound puppy since we saved her in April, she is sometimes an awesome running mate, sometimes not so much. We have been to obedience school, it helped some. We run on average 4 times per week, about 3 miles each time. I have a retractable leash, I know most people hate those but it really works for us when we run. I think just running together is what it takes. Good Luck!0
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I have been running with my pound puppy since we saved her in April, she is sometimes an awesome running mate, sometimes not so much. We have been to obedience school, it helped some. We run on average 4 times per week, about 3 miles each time. I have a retractable leash, I know most people hate those but it really works for us when we run. I think just running together is what it takes. Good Luck!
I use a 6 foot long, 1.5" wide nylon leash for running with my dog. You should be able to hold it in one hand and there always be slack in the leash when the dog is "correctly" running with you. They should basically just be out to your side and watching where you go. If the dog starts to wander off and not pay attention just turn and go a different direction. Don't jerk the leash or anything just let the tension take itslelf up and it will give the dog a little jerk itself and teach them that they are to watch what you are doing and follow along. Works best with a choker chain.0 -
I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.
controlling your dog on a leash has nothing to do with how experienced of a runner you are. If you can walk a dog you should be able to run with a dog.
Not necessarily true...
She is pretty good walking on a leash either on a harness or choke chain...but running gets her so excited because I'm moving faster...then it also makes her antsy because she gets tripped up around my ankles...0 -
I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.
controlling your dog on a leash has nothing to do with how experienced of a runner you are. If you can walk a dog you should be able to run with a dog.
Not necessarily true...
She is pretty good walking on a leash either on a harness or choke chain...but running gets her so excited because I'm moving faster...then it also makes her antsy because she gets tripped up around my ankles...
What do you mean she is good walking on a leash? Just meaning she doesn't run off everywhere? If your dog is trained to walk on a leash the "correct" way then running shouldn't be any different. If your dog is out front and the leash is tight then you aren't walking your dog, your dog is walking you. You control how fast you go, where you go, when you stop, etc, not the dog. They should stay on your left side and be watching what you are doing and follow along with you. When you stop they should stop at your feet, sit and be watching for when you take off. It isn't hard to teach, I did it in literally about a week training about 10-15 minutes per day. There are instructions and videos all over the place to teach you how to do this training.0 -
Train your dog to walk on a leash properly and running will be easy. You are the leader of the pack and the dog follows you and stops only when you say so.
Great advice. Your dog definitely needs to know that you are the leader. When you walk with your dog, make sure he is walking right next to you - not pulling or stopping constantly to pee or sniff. I run with two and they wear pinch collars - otherwise they would try to pull. I have a running belt and I attach their leash (it's a Y leash for 2 dogs) to my belt so I am hands free. They run just ahead of me and to the right. We are on trail so they have learned to stay to the far right. If it's not crowded, I'll move over a bit and they run next to me but when it's crowded, they need to be in front or behind to take up less space on the trail. They do learn the rules, it just takes time to train and you need to be in command.
Also, some dogs are just better at it than others. I also foster dogs and I had a foster that ran with us and just knew what to do right away (he followed the pack). The last foster I had loved running but she needed a lot more of my attention because she was a stray and didn't have enough leash training before we started. She wanted to be part of the pack but it took more work to convince her she wasn't the leader. Every dog is different.0 -
Another vote for 'train your dog', I'm afraid. When I first got my dog (around two and a half when I got him), the previous owner would only walk with a 'halti' and pulled really hard without, as well as being incredibly 'dog aggressive'. He is a fairly good learner, so I fairly quickly got him to walk off lead next to me at the same pace. Similarly, while he can still be a bit dog aggressive, I can walk through a park with other dogs and be complimented on how well behaved he is by other dog owners.
It wasn't a big leap to up the pace and I did sometimes have to use similar training to make sure his pace stays the same as mine - he'll also run beside me cycling, including off leash on pavements and the road (but only when I'm confident with the environment.)
I've used similar techniques when looking after a friend's slow-learning dog and while the results were slower, she was certainly making progress with spending half an hour a day for a couple of weeks.
The concept of 'dominance' is strongly depreciated in most modern training (not Caesar Milan who has worked out his methods from guess work I believe.). You absolutely do not need to 'dominate' your dog to train it in any area.Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.0 -
Another vote for 'train your dog', I'm afraid. When I first got my dog (around two and a half when I got him), the previous owner would only walk with a 'halti' and pulled really hard without, as well as being incredibly 'dog aggressive'. He is a fairly good learner, so I fairly quickly got him to walk off lead next to me at the same pace. Similarly, while he can still be a bit dog aggressive, I can walk through a park with other dogs and be complimented on how well behaved he is by other dog owners.
It wasn't a big leap to up the pace and I did sometimes have to use similar training to make sure his pace stays the same as mine - he'll also run beside me cycling, including off leash on pavements and the road (but only when I'm confident with the environment.)
I've used similar techniques when looking after a friend's slow-learning dog and while the results were slower, she was certainly making progress with spending half an hour a day for a couple of weeks.
The concept of 'dominance' is strongly depreciated in most modern training (not Caesar Milan who has worked out his methods from guess work I believe.). You absolutely do not need to 'dominate' your dog to train it in any area.Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
I slightly disagree with the dominance thing. Not saying your dog should be intimidated by you (that is actually a really bad thing in training) but they should know who is in charge and who gives the commands. Basically, they should watch and follow, not lead and pull you around.0 -
I have a boxer, he just turned 5, so he's a little more settled down than he used to be. The more I ran with him, the better he got about cutting me off. Yours will eventually get the hang of it the more you take him out. Just takes practice.
Yup, this. Both of my dogs were not so great in the beginning (stopping suddenly, etc.) but it only took about 5 or 6 runs to get them familiar with the activity.0 -
I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.
controlling your dog on a leash has nothing to do with how experienced of a runner you are. If you can walk a dog you should be able to run with a dog.
Not necessarily true...
She is pretty good walking on a leash either on a harness or choke chain...but running gets her so excited because I'm moving faster...then it also makes her antsy because she gets tripped up around my ankles...
What do you mean she is good walking on a leash? Just meaning she doesn't run off everywhere? If your dog is trained to walk on a leash the "correct" way then running shouldn't be any different. If your dog is out front and the leash is tight then you aren't walking your dog, your dog is walking you. You control how fast you go, where you go, when you stop, etc, not the dog. They should stay on your left side and be watching what you are doing and follow along with you. When you stop they should stop at your feet, sit and be watching for when you take off. It isn't hard to teach, I did it in literally about a week training about 10-15 minutes per day. There are instructions and videos all over the place to teach you how to do this training.
This isn't biased at all...LoL no two dogs are the same. Just because your dog (was it also a boxer?) was able to pick up on something quickly doesn't mean every other dog will. And even though I'm doing everything the way I'm supposed to (correcting her and making her stop if she pulls, keeping her at my left and making sure there is slack on the leash, praising her when she does the right thing...etc.) she does have more difficulty running. She was also the dominant one in her litter so she's a bit stubborn (boxers are known for being very headstrong).
Out of curiosity, other than your success with your dogs, are you a dog trainer?0 -
Another vote for 'train your dog', I'm afraid. When I first got my dog (around two and a half when I got him), the previous owner would only walk with a 'halti' and pulled really hard without, as well as being incredibly 'dog aggressive'. He is a fairly good learner, so I fairly quickly got him to walk off lead next to me at the same pace. Similarly, while he can still be a bit dog aggressive, I can walk through a park with other dogs and be complimented on how well behaved he is by other dog owners.
It wasn't a big leap to up the pace and I did sometimes have to use similar training to make sure his pace stays the same as mine - he'll also run beside me cycling, including off leash on pavements and the road (but only when I'm confident with the environment.)
I've used similar techniques when looking after a friend's slow-learning dog and while the results were slower, she was certainly making progress with spending half an hour a day for a couple of weeks.
The concept of 'dominance' is strongly depreciated in most modern training (not Caesar Milan who has worked out his methods from guess work I believe.). You absolutely do not need to 'dominate' your dog to train it in any area.Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
Boxers especially don't respond well to dominant styles of training or corrections...they respond better to reward based training and tons and tons of praise...0 -
I run with my dog four times a week about 3 miles each time. She's a smaller dog but still runs or stops in front of me sometimes. A couple times I almost bailed and I just always try to keep an eye out exactly where she is. I use a harness and retractable leash and generally she is pretty good. If I see she is stopping I just say come on Lilly and she starts running again. I love taking her on my runs because then I have company and she also gets some good exercise too.0
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Disagree with what? :P ...I slightly disagree with the dominance thing.
You will note that I was careful to not actually offer an opinion, as it's a much deeper subject that this thread justifies and I personally don't think it's as black and white as many do like to suggest.0 -
I have a 1yr old blue heeler, and we have been walking together since she was a pup. Now she is old enough to start running, however...
Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
But if you are like me, a novice runner, may I suggest you follow my lead? I am not going to attempt to run with my dog until I am a strong runner, so I will be the dominant runner between the two of us and she will follow my lead.
controlling your dog on a leash has nothing to do with how experienced of a runner you are. If you can walk a dog you should be able to run with a dog.
Not necessarily true...
She is pretty good walking on a leash either on a harness or choke chain...but running gets her so excited because I'm moving faster...then it also makes her antsy because she gets tripped up around my ankles...
What do you mean she is good walking on a leash? Just meaning she doesn't run off everywhere? If your dog is trained to walk on a leash the "correct" way then running shouldn't be any different. If your dog is out front and the leash is tight then you aren't walking your dog, your dog is walking you. You control how fast you go, where you go, when you stop, etc, not the dog. They should stay on your left side and be watching what you are doing and follow along with you. When you stop they should stop at your feet, sit and be watching for when you take off. It isn't hard to teach, I did it in literally about a week training about 10-15 minutes per day. There are instructions and videos all over the place to teach you how to do this training.
This isn't biased at all...LoL no two dogs are the same. Just because your dog (was it also a boxer?) was able to pick up on something quickly doesn't mean every other dog will. And even though I'm doing everything the way I'm supposed to (correcting her and making her stop if she pulls, keeping her at my left and making sure there is slack on the leash, praising her when she does the right thing...etc.) she does have more difficulty running. She was also the dominant one in her litter so she's a bit stubborn (boxers are known for being very headstrong).
Out of curiosity, other than your success with your dogs, are you a dog trainer?
I am not a professional dog trainer, no. But I have trained several dogs and it isn't that hard, just takes repetition and consistency. I am not trying to sound like an a$s here, I was just trying to give you helpful advice. If the dog does good walking and starts to act up running I would slow back down to a walk to correct the behavior and then try to run again. Just have to keep showing the dog what you want and they should pick it up. Boxers are high strung and stubborn but they are pretty smart also. My dog is actually an APBT, the kings of high strung and stubborn lol.0 -
"Dog behavior is very much about dominance, "
Just...no. This is junk science that has been disproved several years ago. There is also no 'alpha' as was currently thought and the scientist who put forth that concept was the one who corrected his hyposthesis. I wish people would research and discover current thinking on training rather then regurgitating junk science or whatever crap that *kitten* Cesar conned so many with.
And because someone asked another poster, yes I am a Trainer and Dog Behaviorist.0 -
Another vote for 'train your dog', I'm afraid. When I first got my dog (around two and a half when I got him), the previous owner would only walk with a 'halti' and pulled really hard without, as well as being incredibly 'dog aggressive'. He is a fairly good learner, so I fairly quickly got him to walk off lead next to me at the same pace. Similarly, while he can still be a bit dog aggressive, I can walk through a park with other dogs and be complimented on how well behaved he is by other dog owners.
It wasn't a big leap to up the pace and I did sometimes have to use similar training to make sure his pace stays the same as mine - he'll also run beside me cycling, including off leash on pavements and the road (but only when I'm confident with the environment.)
I've used similar techniques when looking after a friend's slow-learning dog and while the results were slower, she was certainly making progress with spending half an hour a day for a couple of weeks.
The concept of 'dominance' is strongly depreciated in most modern training (not Caesar Milan who has worked out his methods from guess work I believe.). You absolutely do not need to 'dominate' your dog to train it in any area.Dog behavior is very much about dominance, so in order to effectively run with your dog, you have to be the dominant runner. If you are an experienced runner, this shouldn't be much of a problem. Just use the same training principles used when lease training.
I slightly disagree with the dominance thing. Not saying your dog should be intimidated by you (that is actually a really bad thing in training) but they should know who is in charge and who gives the commands. Basically, they should watch and follow, not lead and pull you around.
That would be simple training.
Here a good basic primer http://www.apdt.com/petowners/choose/dominancemyths.aspx
Training is understanding, communication and cooperation. Dominating someone or something implies no need for any of that and an understanding within the relationship that none is needed.0 -
So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.
The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.
The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.
Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.
If this is a traditional chain choker throw that **** away. You have a dedicated puller who will injure themselves. If you must use something rather then train your dog, a harness, Halti or even a prong collar are more humane and safer, not to mention effective.
I've yet to see an owner fit one properly anyway. Plus if your dog plays with other the teeth can get caught, I know this because my pup's bottom canine got caught in some idiot owners choke chain that they hadn't removed because (I'm not kidding) they couldn't take it off. I had to injure the dog to remove the collar and my dog was lucky his teeth weren't ripped out.
Plus, again, they are not effective with a dedicated puller.
Try a harness that you connect the leash in the front NOT the back as that encourages pulling.
The connection in the front is what give you leverage. I agree that dogs get excited when running and even dogs who walk nicely on a leash gets ramped up. This will fade the more you run with the dog and they realize this isn't a one off novelty running away wow how friggin exciting is this kind of thing.
The older dog I wouldn't run, period. Unless you get vet approval due to age and frankly running with a reactive dog is no fun for anyone. If the dog gets enough exercise leave it be. I would caution against running with both dogs at all cost as one reactive dog triggers another and the behavior becomes self reinforcing. Plus they are so far apart in age and maturity.
Running with your younger dog will just take practice and then more practice. It's a transition like anything else. If he is food motivated bring treats and a shorter four foot leash. Be sure he can stop to potty and drink and work on your 'run!' command so he has a clue.0 -
So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.
The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.
The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.
Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.
First of all, at a year old your dog is still growing and you don't want to push the speed or distance as it could have a negative effect on her.
Don't train her to run on a slip lead (choker). Get a Gentle Leader head collar. Much easier to use and much more effective. Harnesses won't work either because they actually encourage the dog to pull.
Start with short distances - a half a mile or so at a slow speed. Only run her 2-3 times a week. Increase your distance gradually, adding only a half mile per week at most.
After every run, check her paws. Look for raw or chaffed spots. I use paw wax on my dog's pads before every run. I learned the hard way that pavement can tear their pads up. The wax protects them and is completely safe.0 -
So I have two boxers. One is older (8-9 years old, we're not totally sure) the other is just about one year old now.
The older dog I can't run with...he has some behavior issues around other dogs and can be difficult to control...we're working on it.
The other dog has SO much energy, she would really benefit from the additional exercise, but she's so spastic when we run that getting her to not trip me as she stops to look at or smell everything is REALLY difficult.
Any advice on running with dogs like that? I'm taking her for a long walk today and she does ok with that...we bought her a choker to kind of train her with not pulling on the leash.
First of all, at a year old your dog is still growing and you don't want to push the speed or distance as it could have a negative effect on her.
Don't train her to run on a slip lead (choker). Get a Gentle Leader head collar. Much easier to use and much more effective. Harnesses won't work either because they actually encourage the dog to pull.
Start with short distances - a half a mile or so at a slow speed. Only run her 2-3 times a week. Increase your distance gradually, adding only a half mile per week at most.
After every run, check her paws. Look for raw or chaffed spots. I use paw wax on my dog's pads before every run. I learned the hard way that pavement can tear their pads up. The wax protects them and is completely safe.
Heal Halters can be difficult to fit on a Boxer. They can also cause cervical collar damage on a dog who is bouncing and pulling and remove any decision making on the dogs part. Plus if a dog hates it, good luck. Not a fan.
Harnesses with a front connection no NOT encourage pulling. Harnesses with a back attachment may.
Totally agree with the rest of the post, that's good advice.
Edited because I cannot seem to spell front correctly.0
This discussion has been closed.
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