Cyclists-Expert advice appreciated!

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  • farmerpam1
    farmerpam1 Posts: 402 Member
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    No expert here. I just bought a road bike, which I'm learning to love, but my first, and true love is my mountain bike. Most important thing is fit. Get one that fits, by someone who knows what they're doing. I'm on the short side, and once you get the right fit, ahhhh, there's nothing like it. Test ride if you can, get an idea of how much you want to spend. You can get a decent bike for around a thousand. Others, who know much, much more than I on this will chime in. It's what you can afford. My new road bike is sweet, I can lift it over my head and do presses with it. I just need to gain experience and confidence, it all comes with time. Ride on!:flowerforyou:
  • Chain_Ring
    Chain_Ring Posts: 753 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.

    Aren't you sharp as a tack. It was a joke.
  • Chain_Ring
    Chain_Ring Posts: 753 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.

    Aren't you sharp as a tack. It was a joke.

    See what I did there? ;-)
  • farmerpam1
    farmerpam1 Posts: 402 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.


    ^^This, so true. And, you know, it's okay to have more than one bike for different rides. Really.:smile:
  • Chain_Ring
    Chain_Ring Posts: 753 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    OP says he wants to do road riding, not mountain biking.

    It was a joke, boss.
  • Chain_Ring
    Chain_Ring Posts: 753 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.


    ^^This, so true. And, you know, it's okay to have more than one bike for different rides. Really.:smile:

    I.........I just can't. Have a nice day.
  • itsfatum
    itsfatum Posts: 113 Member
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    I have some knowledge, since cycling is my cross training sport of choice.
    I dont train to be pro at cycling, but I do train for competitive inline speed skating, which is quite close.

    When you say "long distance", you should specify the amount of hours you want to workout per session.

    Road cyclist, in my eyes, are ****ing insane in terms of distances. What some cyclist call "fondo" it's actually more like an ultra marathon or a "grand fondo", talking about waaay over 2-3 hours of riding. From what I've seen, that's usually the norm for road cyclists. Based off your profile pic, you would have to lose sh*tloads of muscle to compete at those distances. And even if you do not compete, you will have to have spot on nutrition to not lose as much as you are gaining at the gym.

    I am a long distance junkie, don't get me wrong. But, for me, that means 2 hours max. per session. Anything over that... it's not long distance. It's more like ultra long distance.

    My point is that you'll want to focus on a distance (based on hours, more than km) and train for that. Explore for yourself and understand what you like and what you don't. I'm just telling you the reason why I can't train with my local road cycling club, even though I train real hard to compete and I'm stronger at shorter distances than most of their riders. But when you do rides over two hours long, the body requirements change to a whole different level. What gets you riding fast, wont get you riding long. And what gets you riding long, won't get you riding over 90-120mins.

    In terms of bike setup, I would recommend you to get a new bike. If you knew enough of the sport, or one of your friends was pro at cycling materials, you might get a good deal off of craiglist. But if you don't have access to that knowledge, I would go for the cheapest of the mid range quality bikes if you are on a budget, or aim for a ~1000$ bike if you can invest a bit more. Those will be cheap bikes, but you can find really good bikes in that range. Anything over 1500$ will more than probably be top quality non carbon materials. Carbon get the costs to rocket sky high, for really small margins of improvement, so I would avoid it for any entry level bike, even top quality ones. Also, anything under 800$ probably wont have enough quality for you.

    With that in mind, I would go to local stores, and spam them with questions. The store that can stand those million questions without a problem, or feeling awkward, will be the one you should buy from. That's what you actually need as a newbie, someone who can teach you the sport, not someone who can sell you a bike. Almost anyone could do that, imo, even someone who has no freaking idea. Just be a little skeptical, and you'll be fine.

    I hope this helped. I don't read the forum very often, so if you have any question regarding training or anything else, feel free to send me a message or a friend request. I'll be happy to help in anything I can.

    Happy riding.
  • weavernv
    weavernv Posts: 1,555 Member
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    bump
  • SarcasmIsMyLoveLanguage
    SarcasmIsMyLoveLanguage Posts: 2,671 Member
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    bump
  • Hornsby
    Hornsby Posts: 10,322 Member
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    Road cyclist, in my eyes, are ****ing insane in terms of distances. What some cyclist call "fondo" it's actually more like an ultra marathon or a "grand fondo", talking about waaay over 2-3 hours of riding. From what I've seen, that's usually the norm for road cyclists. Based off your profile pic, you would have to lose sh*tloads of muscle to compete at those distances. And even if you do not compete, you will have to have spot on nutrition to not lose as much as you are gaining at the gym.


    10592619_275774352630120_3443740075410934434_n.jpg?oh=6d4e8ae40100e48a02031cfe5350c3e1&oe=546D28E8&__gda__=1416071810_283b62d8f2efbfd9fc5aff5be6ab2169

    What do you mean? lol. ;)
  • farmerpam1
    farmerpam1 Posts: 402 Member
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    Ditch the road bike idea and get a mtn bike :-)

    Why? The OP stated that he wants to ride distances, a road bike is far more suitable for this than a mountain bike. mountain bikes are great for riding trails, they're built with sturdy, heavy frames for a reason. A road bike (whether it's aluminum or CF) will be lighter, faster and more comfortable for riding long distances.


    ^^This, so true. And, you know, it's okay to have more than one bike for different rides. Really.:smile:

    I.........I just can't. Have a nice day.


    You're fooling yourself, Pedal pusher. You know you really want to put on that spandex and deal with cars being in the way.:bigsmile:
  • mikeyrp
    mikeyrp Posts: 1,616 Member
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    In the UK, a "Proper" road bike starts around £500 and you will notice the difference as a beginner up to around £1000, maybe £1500 at a push.... I ride a £500 bike with people who regularly do +100 miles and have no problem keeping up (with the girls. Over 20-30 miles....).

    If you can get a second hand bike which fits at £500 you will be in very good shape - and if you want something better you wont loose much money if you sell it on.

    Save some money for the rest of the gear - cleats (pedals and shoes) are well worth investing in - expect to spend about £150 in total for reasonable quality stuff. Good shorts and a helmet is a must. you will want glasses too unless you like getting flies in your eyes at 20mph.

    As for the bike manufacturer - it really depends on your body.Different shaped frames suit different people so try a few out.

    Colour co-ordination is a must, so get a bike which you don't mind accessorising with.
  • cwolfman13
    cwolfman13 Posts: 41,876 Member
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    For starters, you're going to want to figure out what size you need...likely you will need to go get fitted. Having a bike that is too small or too big means not very much fun riding.

    I currently own a cross bike...when I got into all of this I really sat down and thought about what I was likely to be doing most of the time. I ultimately determined that while I would love a road bike, most of my riding would be done on rougher roads (not well maintained rural roads) so a road bike was going to be pretty brittle for that task. I ultimately went with a cross bike...I throw commuter slicks on it for road riding and I've done a couple 1/2 centuries on it...I'm not going to win the Tour de Anything with this bike, but I have fun and finish rides. I'm planning on a full century next spring.

    Bonus is that I actually got into cyclocross racing which wasn't even on my radar...I simply went with the cross bike because it had a similar geometry to a road bike but was a bit more heavy duty...discovering actual cross racing was a hug bonus. My 2nd season starts up here in a couple weeks and I am pumped....

    All that said, if you're really wanting to race road...either endurance or criteriums, you're going to need a road bike. I'd personally start in the used market...you're still going to drop some cash for a good used road bike, but not nearly as much as you will new...and you can use this purchase to help determine what if anything you will need in the future.
  • JonnyQwest
    JonnyQwest Posts: 174 Member
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    You guys are awesome, thanks again for all the advice....have not had a chance to weed through it all but from what I can tell this is going to be invaluable as I move forward. I will start by taking the consensus of opinions and visit my local bike shop.....I am a cheapskate so always looking for a deal on Craigslist, etc but it sounds like this is something I may need to be willing to bite the bullet and pay to have done properly (fitting, etc)...Thanks again guys!
  • jagi410
    jagi410 Posts: 97 Member
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    Find a Felt Dealer and see if they have a Z100 in your size. Fantastic entry level endurance bike at under $800. With helmet/shoes/shorts/etc figure on spending $1200 out the door and into your new addiction :)

    http://www.feltbicycles.com/USA/2015/Bikes/road/endurance/z100.aspx
  • dbmata
    dbmata Posts: 12,951 Member
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    Some good advice above, but just one thing I'd add: it's an old saying among cyclists that the purpose of your first bike is to help you figure out what you need for your second bike.

    So don't drop mega=$ on your first bike. I agree having a look at your LBS is a good idea. Department store bikes are overall much lower quality.

    If at all possible, think about bke commuting to work or for some of your errands, riding to the gym, or whatever. It works a lot better if you can get it into your daily routine. Burn kCal instead of gas!

    YUP. I'd say try to keep that first bike sub $1500, because you'll quickly learn what you want or don't want, and then you'll be looking for bikes 2x+. At the price point though, you can still keep it for training purposes.

    Don't go gel for a saddle, and get good pedals. A saddle shouldn't be "comfortable", but stiff and well shaped. In the long run it will be more comfortable than those silly gel thingies.

    Get a good fit done, but for a first bike you don't need to go the route of getting a full fit from a pro fitter. Save that for bike two and make it part of the purchase.

    Get some decent midgrade drivetrain parts, like Shimano 105. You get a solid price to performance ratio with those. Also, get something with a carbon front fork and carbon seat post, paired to the lightest frame you can afford.

    Be sure to keep a budget for:
    1. Bike Shorts
    2. Cycling boots and pedals
    3. Pump, tubes, patching and tools for maintenance
    4. Helmet
    5. Cycling computer

    Bikes won't generally come with pedals, those are extra. Same with lights and a computer.
  • itsfatum
    itsfatum Posts: 113 Member
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    10592619_275774352630120_3443740075410934434_n.jpg?oh=6d4e8ae40100e48a02031cfe5350c3e1&oe=546D28E8&__gda__=1416071810_283b62d8f2efbfd9fc5aff5be6ab2169

    What do you mean? lol. ;)

    6366kcal... WTF! :D
    Two full hard training days worth of calories... in one session. Exactly, that's what I mean! :D
    My goodness, that is insane :P

    The max distance I've rode is 130km, and I felt pretty sick after it. Almost like if I could feel my muscles eating themselves. It just doesn't feel right to me, lol.
    Kudos for the 100mil ride!
  • Hornsby
    Hornsby Posts: 10,322 Member
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    I should mention that the calorie count is way off I would assume. I don't use a HR monitor so it's pretty inflated. I would think more like 3K-3500 in reality.
  • BusyRaeNOTBusty
    BusyRaeNOTBusty Posts: 7,166 Member
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    1. Yes, to the LBS. Go in tell them what you want to spend, then discuss what you are getting for your money, and what you'd get for less and/or more. A good bike shop won't try and just sell you want you want.

    2. No, you don't (or won't) have to lose large amounts of muscle to be a distance rider. The muscle won't benefit you much but unless you are REALLY serious I wouldn't worry about it. My husband races MTB and is still a pretty muscular guy.

    3. I second the recommendation to think about a CX bike instead of a road. What kind of terrain are you riding? I'm looking at one just because most of my road riding will be done in the winter when conditions aren't the best.

    4.And disk brakes are awesome.
  • Shropshire1959
    Shropshire1959 Posts: 982 Member
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    Learn how to change a tyre .. out on the road you may not have tools so - learn to take a tyre off with just your hands (oh and put it back on again :-p )

    Good tip if you don't have a pump/repair kits etc with you ... fill the tyre with grass .. it will get you home.