Riding bikes for men over 325 pounds

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lostsoul2216
lostsoul2216 Posts: 57 Member
in Fitness and Exercise
Embarrassing question to ask, but I am looking into a good riding bicycle for riding outdoors on the bike paths. Currently I am at 335 pounds and really would love to get back to riding bikes from long ago.

If anyone has suggestions of affordable bikes for men, I would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Replies

  • TimothyFish
    TimothyFish Posts: 4,925 Member
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    Given your weight, nothing you find in the shop will be rated to carry you. That being said, a good quality mountain bike should be able to handle your weight. I wouldn't trust a bike from a big box store. There's a reason they are cheap. But mountain bikes are designed for jumping over things. As long as you keep both wheels on the ground, your weight won't put as much strain on it as it was designed to handle.
  • canadianlbs
    canadianlbs Posts: 5,199 Member
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    even more than the bike frame, make sure your wheels will be strong enough to carry you. just passing that on since that's what i was told by my own bike mechanic, when i inquired on behalf of a friend who's in the 220+ zone.

    my mech is a triathlete and mostly caters to that clientele, so idk. maybe he was thinking in terms of road rims. but i still think it's a thing worth considering, since i've heard a lot more stories about wheels crumpling than frames giving way even from non-clydesdale riders.
  • canadianlbs
    canadianlbs Posts: 5,199 Member
    edited April 2017
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    . . . also more generally, i hope you won't let embarrassment stop you. all kinds of people ride bikes, and thinking ahead about safety is smart. needing an extra-sturdy one for your size should be no more shameful that me needing a buttload of gears for my joints.

    on recommendations, i have very limited (and layman's) experience. my first bike was a jamis coda, for what that's worth.

    and also fwiw, i picked up an impression somewhere that steel might be a better bet for you than an alloy, because steel has more give and alloys tend to be relatively brittle. i've experience this myself between my steel coda, and the [something else] garneau which i also have. the garneau is lighter but definitely stiffer. so just thinking that it might be a factor if you're subjecting it to heavy stress.
  • lostsoul2216
    lostsoul2216 Posts: 57 Member
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    I think I found my answer. Adding a wheel for adult tricycles and they go up to 500 pounds.

    http://brandscycle.com/product-list/adult-tricycles-pg183/

    Some of the top ones are motorized but there are several that aren't.

    Thanks all
  • TimothyFish
    TimothyFish Posts: 4,925 Member
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    canadianlbs wrote: »
    even more than the bike frame, make sure your wheels will be strong enough to carry you. just passing that on since that's what i was told by my own bike mechanic, when i inquired on behalf of a friend who's in the 220+ zone.

    my mech is a triathlete and mostly caters to that clientele, so idk. maybe he was thinking in terms of road rims. but i still think it's a thing worth considering, since i've heard a lot more stories about wheels crumpling than frames giving way even from non-clydesdale riders.

    I weighed 270 (maybe more) when I bought my road bike. The back wheel lasted for about 7000 miles before it cracked on me. I also broke a bottom bracket. Wheels with more spokes carry more weight.
  • jenilla1
    jenilla1 Posts: 11,118 Member
    edited April 2017
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    These guys make bikes (not just trikes) for bigger people:

    http://www.worksmancycles.com/big-bikes.html
  • TimothyFish
    TimothyFish Posts: 4,925 Member
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    jenilla1 wrote: »
    These guys make bikes (not just trikes) for bigger people:

    http://www.worksmancycles.com/big-bikes.html

    Seems to be a good brand. We have people out where I work that get around the plant on bicycles and tricycles. They all come from this company.
  • JeromeBarry1
    JeromeBarry1 Posts: 10,182 Member
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    I was an obese teen with a Sears 10-speed bike. It had narrow wheels. One day the front wheel bent. I went back to Sears and bought an 18-speed 'mountain bike'. Its wheels were a little bit wider. I rode that bike around my college campus for a year. I kept that bike and occasionally before I started losing weight with MFP I'd ride it. Riding on the saddle with all my fat caused pressure on my vagus nerve which caused numbness to afflict my groin region for several hours after each ride. This was a discouragement. While still very obese, I replaced the saddle with a model that had a gap in the middle of the seat, a split seat. I was able to ride the bike without the development of the numbness.

    I was so pleased with that, I took it to a local bike shop and had them update all the brakes and cables. It's better than new. I still use it.
  • ronocnikral
    ronocnikral Posts: 176 Member
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    TimothyFish wrote: »
    Given your weight, nothing you find in the shop will be rated to carry you. That being said, a good quality mountain bike should be able to handle your weight. I wouldn't trust a bike from a big box store. There's a reason they are cheap. But mountain bikes are designed for jumping over things. As long as you keep both wheels on the ground, your weight won't put as much strain on it as it was designed to handle.

    Not true. If you go a store who has someone who makes their wheels and knows what they're doing, a lot of bikes will hold that weight. Get 36 spokes, cross 3. Spend the money in the wheels, have Peter white build you a set is where the smart money is. My tandem has 700c wheels, 36 spokes, x3 and were not a sub 300 lb team.

    OP, happy to see you get out. Go to a bike shop and tell them you want a road bike. If they steer you towards a mountain bike and you want a road bike, go to the next store.... I would get something that can handle a wider tire in the 3o to 35 mm range...
  • Tacklewasher
    Tacklewasher Posts: 7,122 Member
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    I was 330 for the last couple of years and found I couldn't/wouldn't ride a mountain bike. The seated position was way too hard on my back, so I just wouldn't do it. Gave it away and bought a cruiser. Bought an Electra Townie. Way better sitting position and much easier on my back.

    It's of no use on anything but pavement or really hard pack, but I really think it would serve you well.

    I do regret giving away my mountain bike now that I've lost weight and will probably end up with something more versatile, but I'm keeping the Townie for casual rides.
  • canadianlbs
    canadianlbs Posts: 5,199 Member
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    TimothyFish wrote: »
    Wheels with more spokes carry more weight.

    that sounds like the thing he said, yeah. i was asking about frame sizes and it was pretty academic, so all i recall is he mentioned wheel strength as a concern.
  • Theo166
    Theo166 Posts: 2,564 Member
    edited April 2017
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    lostsoul2216 wrote: »
    Embarrassing question to ask, but I am looking into a good riding bicycle for riding outdoors on the bike paths. Currently I am at 335 pounds and really would love to get back to riding bikes from long ago.

    If anyone has suggestions of affordable bikes for men, I would be appreciated.

    Thanks in advance

    I'd suggest just buying a quality used mountain bike to get you started and go for 'rigid' design, it's one without front or back suspension. The bike will be strong enough for casual riding and cheap. Save your money for a new bike when you've got your weight down and know what you really need on the feature side.
  • NorthCascades
    NorthCascades Posts: 10,968 Member
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    I agree that wheels are likely to be your biggest problem if you have one, whether you go road or mountain. A wider rim and more spokes will both help.

    Keep in mind this is coming from people who ride thousands of miles per year. It won't be a huge problem for you.

    Test ride several and choose based on comfort and riding position.

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