Love bicycling, hate my bike
CrystalT
Posts: 862 Member
I hate my bike. It is hard to ride and requires more effort than it should. I’ve ridden my husband’s a few times and his is much easier to ride. We both have bike computers, so we get an instant idea of how fast we are riding. Using the same amount of effort I use on my bike to go about 10-12 mph, I can go around 15-17 mph on his. I finally got him to ride my bike, and he agrees that it requires much more effort to move my bike than any other bike he’s ridden. Guess that’s what I get for buying a cheap bike. Hopefully, we can afford to buy me a new one soon. I’m so discouraged by this one at this point that I almost don’t want to ride.
So here’s my question. I don’t have a HRM (the new bike will get bought before a HRM will), so I use the website to estimate my calories burned. I was logging my rides as 10-11.9 mph. But if the effort I use on my bike to go 10-12mph is the same amount of effort I would use on a different bike to go 15-17 mph, should I use that range instead? According to the site, there is an almost 400 calorie difference between an hour of 10-11.9 mph and an hour of 14-15.9 mph. I’m worried that I’m shorting myself when I try to eat my exercise calories. I’ve had a really hard time getting the scale to move since I started riding. Could this be why? Am I starving myself?
So here’s my question. I don’t have a HRM (the new bike will get bought before a HRM will), so I use the website to estimate my calories burned. I was logging my rides as 10-11.9 mph. But if the effort I use on my bike to go 10-12mph is the same amount of effort I would use on a different bike to go 15-17 mph, should I use that range instead? According to the site, there is an almost 400 calorie difference between an hour of 10-11.9 mph and an hour of 14-15.9 mph. I’m worried that I’m shorting myself when I try to eat my exercise calories. I’ve had a really hard time getting the scale to move since I started riding. Could this be why? Am I starving myself?
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Replies
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oh boy, i dont know how many cyclists there are in here but i can tell you something
i am a true ciclyst, done hundereds and hundereds of miles! i can tell you much about cycling.
First of: cycling doesnt make you thinner if you ride it wrong!
belive me i knwo that i couldnt understand how i was unable to get thinner a few years ago when i started riding on my bike, even if i rode for hours and hours... it was incredible
My best bet is that you seat is too low, you have to rise your seat untill you can straighten up your leg almost all the way down when pedaling, and when you are pushing the pedal up your knee should be doing a 90º angle at most.
That way you will be using the bigger muscles in your leg instead of some small one and half the power of the other ones, you wont feel tired, you will pedal longer and consume more caloires
belive me
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When you're ready to buy a new bike, check out the Gary Fishers. I test rode every bike on the market, and my Gary Fisher was by far the most comfortable. Apparently some of the models are made more for the distribution of weight of a female body. It makes all the difference in the world!0
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What kind of bicycle do you ride?
Just changing the tires could make a huge difference.
I bought a cheap HRM at Wal-Mart, but I haven't used it to clock my calories burned while riding yet.
I'll experiment this weekend and let you know what I find out.
I ride a Trek road bike and usually ride 12 miles three times a week. I average 18 MPH and have been entering my rides using what is in the exersise database.
I guess I might be doing myself a disfavor by not using more accurate data.
I hope I can get a good comparison and help you out too.
ClarkOMan0 -
I know the seat is too low, but it is as high as it will go. My husband, who knows much more than I do about bikes, believes there is something different about the gears that is making it even harder than just the low seat. Either way, the bike is junk and needs to be replaced. I was just wondering about the calories because it could still be another month before we can afford my new one and I don't want to go another month not losing weight.
I could use any tips you guys have for buying a new one.Apparently some of the models are made more for the distribution of weight of a female body.
I'm 5'10", would you still suggest a woman's bike? I keep thinking that I should buy a man's bike since my size is closer to the average male than the average female.0 -
dont buy supermarket bikes!
buy real bikes
here's mine:
it's a Specialized
model: hard rock
year: 2006
it was 658€
i reckon that for about 400 us dollars you might buy something good
here are some brands that i like:
Specialized
Giant
Decathlon (some rock riders are great)
Berg (only avaiable at sport zone, i dont know if you have those in US)
but anyway, any bike below 400us dollars is not very good belive me! spend some money on a decent bike and you will love it 0 -
Before you buy your next bike, check out TREK brand. They have a specific line of bikes designed especially for women, and they are an excellent quality bike. I already plan to purchase one next spring. Money is too tight or I would do it now. Depending on what kind of riding you are doing, I suggest you consider a Trek 7200. It is a fairly light bike with good suspension. and depending upon accessories, you can pick up a new one for between $500 and $600.
As for your question about calories, it makes sense to me that if you are putting forth more effort to ride your bike, you would be burning more calories than when you ride an easier one.
Good luck.0 -
Test ride every bike. That's the only way you'll find what's best for you. There are many brands that are of good quality, but each bike isn't for everyone. Also, you'll need to decide what kind of bike. Road, Mountain, Commuters - it all depends on how you plan on riding. Go to a specialty store and tell them your needs. They'll guide you, and usually not high pressure, because they rarely work on commission.
Also, think about getting clipless pedals. You'll need shoes too. This will enable you to use the full motion as power to move you instead of just "mashing" down.0 -
Before you buy your next bike, check out TREK brand. They have a specific line of bikes designed especially for women, and they are an excellent quality bike. I already plan to purchase one next spring. Money is too tight or I would do it now. Depending on what kind of riding you are doing, I suggest you consider a Trek 7200. It is a fairly light bike with good suspension. and depending upon accessories, you can pick up a new one for between $500 and $600.
As for your question about calories, it makes sense to me that if you are putting forth more effort to ride your bike, you would be burning more calories than when you ride an easier one.
Good luck.
yes, trek is a good choise too,0 -
Before you buy your next bike, check out TREK brand. They have a specific line of bikes designed especially for women, and they are an excellent quality bike. I already plan to purchase one next spring. Money is too tight or I would do it now. Depending on what kind of riding you are doing, I suggest you consider a Trek 7200. It is a fairly light bike with good suspension. and depending upon accessories, you can pick up a new one for between $500 and $600.
As for your question about calories, it makes sense to me that if you are putting forth more effort to ride your bike, you would be burning more calories than when you ride an easier one.
Good luck.
yes, trek is a good choise too,0 -
I just bought a new bike, and I don't love it. I should have taken more time to really test it and compare to more bikes. While I really believe the brand is great, the bike is just not a good fit for me. I am 5'8 and bought a women's Specialized Ariel because I was told women's bikes are fit for longer legs and shorter torso, I guess that is not the body shape that I have because I have a tough time riding it and feel much better on my husband's men's bike. Now I'm stuck with a $450 bike that I'm very uncomfortable with. So my advise would be to first chose a high quality brand and ride several bikes both men's and women's so that you really get a feel for what is best. If it doesn't feel perfect when you test ride, don't get it! (which is what I did, I thought I would "get used to" the feel and fit of a women's bike, wrong)0
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woman's bike are only called that because some woemen like to ride in their skirts etc..., that's the main reason0
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woman's bike are only called that because some woemen like to ride in their skirts etc..., that's the main reason
That's not what I've been reading. They typically have shorter top and seat tubes "for a woman's shorter torso". I know my bike has a shorter seat tube since I have it set as high as possible and it is too short. My husband's bike is the same size but the seat can be raise much higher. I've even seen some that have narrower handle bars "for a woman's smaller shoulders and hands". There are differences other than the ability to wear a skirt. Those differences are the reason I think that I should buy a man's bike.0 -
Can anyone tell me the difference in the brands they have suggested and the "big box" brands like Schwinn and Huffy? I'm discussing this with my husband and I can't really explain why other than "they said".0
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i would say that they are not great brands, i would stick so something that we know better, like those trek bikes we said earlier0
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well, that's not right because a good bike will be capable of ajusting the handle up and down, and even forward if you buy a longer "advance" (i dont know if it's called like that in english), like i said the real main reason is that, there are other reasons like the seat is larger to acomodate larger hips but then again you can change the seat, it can go up and down as much as you would like, so i really dont see a real diference.woman's bike are only called that because some woemen like to ride in their skirts etc..., that's the main reason
That's not what I've been reading. They typically have shorter top and seat tubes "for a woman's shorter torso". I know my bike has a shorter seat tube since I have it set as high as possible and it is too short. My husband's bike is the same size but the seat can be raise much higher. I've even seen some that have narrower handle bars "for a woman's smaller shoulders and hands". There are differences other than the ability to wear a skirt. Those differences are the reason I think that I should buy a man's bike.0 -
well, that's not right because a good bike will be capable of ajusting the handle up and down, and even forward if you buy a longer "advance" (i dont know if it's called like that in english), like i said the real main reason is that, there are other reasons like the seat is larger to acomodate larger hips but then again you can change the seat, it can go up and down as much as you would like, so i really dont see a real diference.woman's bike are only called that because some woemen like to ride in their skirts etc..., that's the main reason
That's not what I've been reading. They typically have shorter top and seat tubes "for a woman's shorter torso". I know my bike has a shorter seat tube since I have it set as high as possible and it is too short. My husband's bike is the same size but the seat can be raise much higher. I've even seen some that have narrower handle bars "for a woman's smaller shoulders and hands". There are differences other than the ability to wear a skirt. Those differences are the reason I think that I should buy a man's bike.0 -
Can anyone tell me the difference in the brands they have suggested and the "big box" brands like Schwinn and Huffy? I'm discussing this with my husband and I can't really explain why other than "they said".
It's mainly due to the craftsmanship and the components used to make them. They are just like anything else. You have the Kias, and you have the BMWs. While the Kia will get you from the same A to B that the BMW does, the BMW will be smoother, more confortable, and last a LOT longer.
Same goes for the Huffy to Cannondale.0 -
My hubby (who is a very proficient mountain biker - has been riding for 17 years and used to work in a bike shop) says you should test ride whatever you can and go to a store where there is lots of choice and where they can measure you so you can get the proper geometry. You don't have to spend a fortune, some good brands to look at that so bikes for women's geometry are Kona, Trek, Marin, Giant and Scott. Apparently Scott to a range called 'Contessa' which is female specific and Trek to a large range called 'WSD' that is also women specific. It's all about getting a bike that fits you properly and is appropriate for the type of riding you do.
My husband says the better quality bikes with good components will not only fit you better than cheaper brands, but because of this and the quality of their components they will be safer, lighter and ultimately more fun!
PM me if you want some more specific advice.
Erika0 -
Schwinn used to be an excellent brand but was bought out by one of the dept. store brands (Pacific, I think) and now mostly makes cheaper bikes. Go to a bike shop and try out a few bikes. A hardtail mtn. bike is a good all around bike but you could also look at hybrids if you ride on the road a lot. A new bike will be much more comfortable and you'll want to ride more. Trek, Gary Fisher, Fuji, Giant, etc. are all good brands. You can pick up a hardtail mtn. bike for around $350-400.0
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My hubby (who is a very proficient mountain biker - has been riding for 17 years and used to work in a bike shop) says you should test ride whatever you can and go to a store where there is lots of choice and where they can measure you so you can get the proper geometry. You don't have to spend a fortune, some good brands to look at that so bikes for women's geometry are Kona, Trek, Marin, Giant and Scott. Apparently Scott to a range called 'Contessa' which is female specific and Trek to a large range called 'WSD' that is also women specific. It's all about getting a bike that fits you properly and is appropriate for the type of riding you do.
My husband says the better quality bikes with good components will not only fit you better than cheaper brands, but because of this and the quality of their components they will be safer, lighter and ultimately more fun!
PM me if you want some more specific advice.
Erika
This advice is golden!!
I ride a Trek road bike and just now finished a 12 mile ride. I used to be a Schwinn guy and dead set against Huffy. You could see the difference in the welds on the frame. These days everything is manufactured to high quality standards...Even the cheaper store brands... My job is Quality Assurance on airplane parts so I look at the quality of everything. I agree with the post that says the components make a big difference. In my first post I suggested tires because if you ride a mountain or hybrid bike on the road or street you will get a lot of rolling resistance. If you change to a tire with road tread your resistance goes down, and it's cheaper to start. I also agree with the get fitted to your new bicycle posts. Geometry is key.
Now,
I am really bummed out because the cheap HRM / Pedometer I have from Wal-Mart doesn't clock my calories burned during my bike ride :frown: Other than that it's an excellent HRM
Hope this helps.0 -
Absolutely agree with the comments that geometry is huge. I tried many and found that Kona, for example, just doesn't feel good for me although I know dozens of riders who love them. Santa Cruz felt like it was made for me.
If it's a mountain bike you're looking for, I loved my Santa Cruz Chameleon (hardtail) which I rode for a number of years. Loved it so much that when I decided to go full suspension I chose the Santa Cruz Heckler, because the geo felt the same as the chameleon. I can dial the travel right down if I'm climbing or doing a Xcountry ride, and dial it up for the downhill stuff. Great all-around bike.
http://www.cyclerscafe.com/Portals/7/Brands/2007/SantaCruz/Heckler.gif
New bike shopping - how exciting for you. Have fun!!0 -
you should test ride whatever you can and go to a store where there is lots of choice and where they can measure you so you can get the proper geometry.
It's all about getting a bike that fits you properly and is appropriate for the type of riding you do.
better quality bikes with good components will not only fit you better than cheaper brands, but because of this and the quality of their components they will be safer, lighter and ultimately more fun!
PM me if you want some more specific advice.
Erika
Yes, ditto, that is golden advice and spot on!!
Demetria0 -
Can anyone tell me the difference in the brands they have suggested and the "big box" brands like Schwinn and Huffy? I'm discussing this with my husband and I can't really explain why other than "they said".
Stay AWAY from the big box stores. I can't repeat that emphatically or often enough.
Consider your investment--the bike you select will be something you keep for probably 10 yrs or more. When you spread the cost over that period of time, an extra couple of hundred bucks for a good bike is a bargain.
You will enjoy the better bike today, tomorrow, next week and years from now. If for some reason you don't ride it for awhile, all you will need is a tune up (or a clean and lube job) and you will have a great bike again.
I also recommend buying a bike from a reputable local store--one run by those interested in cycling. I once visited a bicycle manufacturer and toured the factory. They made the frames, and did a rough job of threading the spokes, but essentially grabbed a box of components and threw them in the shipping box.
In other words, the actual "assembly" of the bike was done by the store at the point of sale. Meaning that your bike, no matter what the brand name, is only as good as the person who puts it together for you. Who do you want doing that? A mechanic at at bike shop who is passionate about cycling, or some kid in the back of a sporting goods store?
A bike store will also answer all these questions you are asking here and make sure you select the right sized frame and are properly fitted to that frame. They will also let you test drive as many different bikes as you need so you can feel the difference. And almost all will provide a free tune up after a couple of hundred miles, since many new bikes need to be adjusted after a "break in" period.
As you can probably tell, I have pretty strong opinions on this subject. Cycling can be such a great activity, I just HATE seeing people shortchange themselves on the experience by going too cheap on a bike or getting it at the wrong place.
I would plan on spending $400 to $500 on a new bike, minimum (assuming no special sales). The longer you have it, the more you will thank yourself for making the right decision.0 -
Regarding the calories.....why don't you take the difference between the two (12 mph & 17 mph) and use the halfway mark. That way you are in the middle rather than on the low or high end.0
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