Fitness, exercise and MY DOG...HELP!!! How do you do it :/
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First, if you are going to be running with him (on pavement), you need to build up callouses on his feet to avoid injury. With an adult dog that is being introduced to running, I do something like a Cto5K program to avoid wearing holes in her feet.
Second, for regular walks, I try to have 3 phases to every walk with my girl: Wearing out phase (brisk walk), Training phase (keep her at heel, maintain eye contact, use treats, random heel patterns, auto sits on halts), and Leisure phase (let her sniff and wander and pee). They don't have to be in that order.0 -
jessiferrrb wrote: »next level dog fitness goals
Well if Rhino can't walk, maybe we can work on strength training together.....lmao 1 -
Neuter & find (hopefully free) puppy socialization classes. Or take to a dog park. Gets the dog used to other dogs and people. Definitely go to obedience classes. They are not just for the dog. You and anyone else in the family need to know how to be the alpha personality or your dog will take that position. Not good. My Catahoula leopard dog was a nightmare to just take a walk around the block. Did socialization, obedience and she is pretty good now. I walk her daily and take her on long hikes. A head harness is very good for a strong, easily distracted dog. Pulling and yanking on a neck collar can injure your dog.
My dog is not good to run with but I'm not a runner so don't care. I make sure she gets lots of play and exercise. A dog will not be able to focus and behave on a walk if it's been indoors or just under exercised all day. Good luck and enjoy your dog!
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STLBADGIRL wrote: »jessiferrrb wrote: »+1000 for training and neutering.
i run with my dog and he is into sniffing and marking as well, but we have an interval based system that works really well for us. (i got him when he was 5 already and he knew basic commands but had always been walked off leash, i'm lucky though that he loves to learn and is very food motivated). anyway, our first five minutes is "warm up" time, during that time he gets his most urgent business out of the way and sniffs around, but when time is up and i say "ready, bronx?" he goes right into a run interval and keeps pace next to me on a short leash until i say "recovery", then he poops lol, then we repeat the interval commands. it's a good balance for him because he gets his time to sniff and explore during the walk intervals and he gets exercise during the run intervals. it works for me too because it's hotter than hell out and i like to slow down for a bit as well.
This is truly a Kodak moment...he should be dog model...lol
aw! thanks! that's so sweet. he's 97 pounds of handsome. lol0 -
STLBADGIRL wrote: »You all have been so helpful. Yes, I was ready to throw in the towel, but Rhino might have a chance of a good full life now. I was so exhausted and dreaded going on walks with him. Also, I wanted to mention that he is very well trained INSIDE OF THE HOME, it's when we go outside and the other distractions that goes on. And he just looooooooooves being outside...but he doesn't know how to act in a way that it is enjoyable for us....
Someone mentioned a doggy park. Rhino would lose his mind (and also be in dog heaven) if I took him to a dog park. He needs to be more trained before I can feel at ease at doing that.
I went to an outdoor ice cream shop yesterday and noticed dogs sitting and well behaved...I was so jealous ---LOL. But you all are giving me hope that I can have a happy life with my dog.
You'll need to work on increasing distraction incrementally. So once he has it down pat inside the home, a good heel, good eye contact, etc. then either invite someone you know with a dog over (explaining the process - for training and socialization) or try it in the yard. After that's mastered, you'll expand to the street, only your street. Then increase your distance/distraction, until you can walk down all the streets. It just takes a ton of patience and a ton of time.
I'm still working through it with my dogs.
Someone else mentioned it - but the world doesn't need more pitties until they're not the majority of shelter dogs. Our two bullies came from the same city in California. The last time I looked at the shelter website, they had 12 pages of adoptable dogs. 8 of those 12 pages were pitbull/staffy/power breeds. So until they are no longer "most" of the shelter dogs... they need to *only* be bred by proper breeders using appropriate breeding programs.
Personally, I love bullies. They are my favourite dog, and pretty much the only kind I want to own (unless my spouse brings home a corgi... then I'll be dead from awesome dog-ness). They're just not for everyone, and a lot of people don't know what they're getting into.
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Definitely get him neutered! It will help calm him down, especially around other dogs. It will also save you potential problems down the road that could occur from mounting another dog and even fathering puppies. Depending on where you live, getting him fixed could also be required with a penalty of hefty fines unless you are breeder.
Someone already recommended the head harness which it sounds like you have but still need to try. I got my dog this no-pull harness. http://www.petsmart.com/dog/harnesses/top-paw-sporn-non-pull-dog-harness-zid36-19405/cat-36-catid-100082?var_id=36-19405&_t=pfm=category He can still pull with it and throw his body behind it, but he can't slip out of the collar, can't choke himself or damage his wind pipe which can be done pulling against a regular collar, and it discourages him from pulling in general.
There are different collars you can try too. Choke chains and pinch collars should only be used for training, but could be really helpful for you.
You will have more control with a shorter leash (mine is 4 feet long). An extendable leash will not provide the control you need, make sure you have a more solid, standard type of leash.
Use treats and positive attention along the walk to encourage responding to you. Randomly call his name and give him a treat when he turns and looks you in the eyes. Make him sit and stay at intersections, then give him a treat when you start moving. Reward any good behaviors during the walk with treats.
I agree with the other suggestions to go to obedience class. Not only will this help with walking behavior, but it should generally help you establish that you are in charge and he needs to listen to you.
My dog (1 year old German shorthaired pointer) also gets really excited around other dogs and animals. Sometimes I pull the leash up short and work on making him heal past the other dog, sometimes I put him into a sit or down and make him stay while the other dog walks past us, sometimes I just go a little out of my way to keep a greater distance between us since my dog gets more excited when he is closer to the other dogs.
Another trick for initial training is to actually get the dog tired before going for a walk. Have him chase the ball in your yard, go to the dog park, take him swimming, etc. Then when he is calmer, you can go for a walk and work on proper walking behavior.
My dog thankfully does not stop to pee constantly. As for the sniffing, I simply don't put up with it. He is allowed to get slightly ahead of me and pause to sniff while I walk past, but then I tug the leash and we keep going. I don't stop for him to sniff things.
Edit: I don't know why the picture is sideways but I can't seem to fix it.0 -
My dog is a rescue Australian Shepherd ... she is my profile picture. She is a neurotic hot mess about certain things (she is scared of us folding laundry!) but she is a great powerwalker. I don't run but I do powerwalk around the neighborhood and she is a dream about it. We got her when she was about 3 and we never had to train her ... she just seemed to know what to do. The only thing we have/had to do is keep an eye on her herding instincts. When my boys were smaller and playing outside, she had a tendency to herd them around and was somewhat a hard head about it! She also tries to herd people when they are swimming too. However, one or two sharp commands typically seems to stop her and she always comes right back to our side.0
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Katiebear_81 wrote: »STLBADGIRL wrote: »You all have been so helpful. Yes, I was ready to throw in the towel, but Rhino might have a chance of a good full life now. I was so exhausted and dreaded going on walks with him. Also, I wanted to mention that he is very well trained INSIDE OF THE HOME, it's when we go outside and the other distractions that goes on. And he just looooooooooves being outside...but he doesn't know how to act in a way that it is enjoyable for us....
Someone mentioned a doggy park. Rhino would lose his mind (and also be in dog heaven) if I took him to a dog park. He needs to be more trained before I can feel at ease at doing that.
I went to an outdoor ice cream shop yesterday and noticed dogs sitting and well behaved...I was so jealous ---LOL. But you all are giving me hope that I can have a happy life with my dog.
You'll need to work on increasing distraction incrementally. So once he has it down pat inside the home, a good heel, good eye contact, etc. then either invite someone you know with a dog over (explaining the process - for training and socialization) or try it in the yard. After that's mastered, you'll expand to the street, only your street. Then increase your distance/distraction, until you can walk down all the streets. It just takes a ton of patience and a ton of time. I'm still working through it with my dogs.
Someone else mentioned it - but the world doesn't need more pitties until they're not the majority of shelter dogs. Our two bullies came from the same city in California. The last time I looked at the shelter website, they had 12 pages of adoptable dogs. 8 of those 12 pages were pitbull/staffy/power breeds. So until they are no longer "most" of the shelter dogs... they need to *only* be bred by proper breeders using appropriate breeding programs.
Personally, I love bullies. They are my favourite dog, and pretty much the only kind I want to own (unless my spouse brings home a corgi... then I'll be dead from awesome dog-ness). They're just not for everyone, and a lot of people don't know what they're getting into.
Thanks for explaining the "we do not need more pitties" comment. I was mildly offended at first....but after you and another person explained it...I agree. Because I didn't know what the hell I was getting myself into....NOT ONLY DO I NOT KNOW A LOT ABOUT DOGS, I was completely clueless on PITBULLS. But he wins over my heart because he is so sweet and a quick learner...but is a different creature outside the home...
Also, thanks on the tips on the distractions...0 -
Katiebear_81 wrote: »2. Whomever told you your dog is too young for car rides is an idiot. You may, however, have a dog that doesn't travel well. You can talk to your vet about that.
I completely agree with this statement. I have spent my life around dogs and never heard this before. But, many puppies are susceptible to car sickness and often grow out it. Mine mostly grew out of it around 6 months old although he still has issues on longer (more than 1 hour) rides. My parents German Shepard didn't grow out of it until he was 2 or 3.1 -
STLBADGIRL wrote: »Katiebear_81 wrote: »STLBADGIRL wrote: »You all have been so helpful. Yes, I was ready to throw in the towel, but Rhino might have a chance of a good full life now. I was so exhausted and dreaded going on walks with him. Also, I wanted to mention that he is very well trained INSIDE OF THE HOME, it's when we go outside and the other distractions that goes on. And he just looooooooooves being outside...but he doesn't know how to act in a way that it is enjoyable for us....
Someone mentioned a doggy park. Rhino would lose his mind (and also be in dog heaven) if I took him to a dog park. He needs to be more trained before I can feel at ease at doing that.
I went to an outdoor ice cream shop yesterday and noticed dogs sitting and well behaved...I was so jealous ---LOL. But you all are giving me hope that I can have a happy life with my dog.
You'll need to work on increasing distraction incrementally. So once he has it down pat inside the home, a good heel, good eye contact, etc. then either invite someone you know with a dog over (explaining the process - for training and socialization) or try it in the yard. After that's mastered, you'll expand to the street, only your street. Then increase your distance/distraction, until you can walk down all the streets. It just takes a ton of patience and a ton of time. I'm still working through it with my dogs.
Someone else mentioned it - but the world doesn't need more pitties until they're not the majority of shelter dogs. Our two bullies came from the same city in California. The last time I looked at the shelter website, they had 12 pages of adoptable dogs. 8 of those 12 pages were pitbull/staffy/power breeds. So until they are no longer "most" of the shelter dogs... they need to *only* be bred by proper breeders using appropriate breeding programs.
Personally, I love bullies. They are my favourite dog, and pretty much the only kind I want to own (unless my spouse brings home a corgi... then I'll be dead from awesome dog-ness). They're just not for everyone, and a lot of people don't know what they're getting into.
Thanks for explaining the "we do not need more pitties" comment. I was mildly offended at first....but after you and another person explained it...I agree. Because I didn't know what the hell I was getting myself into....NOT ONLY DO I NOT KNOW A LOT ABOUT DOGS, I was completely clueless on PITBULLS. But he wins over my heart because he is so sweet and a quick learner...but is a different creature outside the home...
Also, thanks on the tips on the distractions...
It sounds like he has found a wonderful loving home with you and is lucky your family rescued him! Training can be really hard and frustrating, but you sound like you're getting on the right track. You will get this 1 -
Edit: I don't know why the picture is sideways but I can't seem to fix it.[/quote]
Nice dog, nice picture.... Thanks for your feedback and advice...0 -
STLBADGIRL wrote: »Also, I've read a couple of times in here...."we do not need more pitties".... Why is that? Is it because of the stereotype that comes along with the breed of dog? Because inside of the home he is better acting that my friend's toy poodle. Just curious as to your thoughts on that.
Go to your local shelter and you'll likely see a predominance of pit mixes. Tens of thousands are killed every year because they can't find homes. They can be a wonderful breed, but so many irresponsible owners are out there. We really don't need more backyard breeders creating litters that often end up in the shelters.
My last dog before our recent puppy was a pit/lab mix. She was one day from being euthanized in the county shelter. A real sweetheart in the family setting, she was.0 -
I have a french bulldog/blue heeler mix (from what I'm told) named Apollo, and walking him was my biggest problem at first! Especially pulling to go see another dog (I live in a resort area so there are lots of people and dogs). I used to let him pull me over to see great the other dog, then I realized I was teaching him it was ok! Now if another dog is walking towards us, I tell him "leave it" and make him sit. If he does well, he gets a treat. I noticed the faster I walk him, the less distracted he is, but "leave it" definitely works with the sniffing etc. The more you walk your pup, the better he will get
My biggest issue is I'm always walking the dog, and missing out on time in the gym!0 -
I have 5 dogs, 4 are larger(largest 100lbs)& one small. Had dogs all my life & used to have dog walking business & i volunteer with a rescue. First you have to be leader, which means you can't get angry or frustrated, but calm & confident. Your dog doesn't know what you want so you have to show him & he has to be able to respect you to follow you. This is what i do with a new dog or one that is hyper/not respectful: I don't give affection/petting/attention when they're demanding it by putting their nose under my hand for petting. they have to be invited to get on furniture. When going for walk, if they jump for excitment, i put the leash down & ask them to sit. It may take a while but it's worth it. after leash is on, i tell them to sit by door so I can go out first. If they get up & want to rush out, i close the door, have them sit & slightly open/close door till their calm. This may take a while too. When they're finally calm & sitting I go out door first, this is key. How you start your walk make all the difference. I used a prong collar on some of my dogs that were high energy. What ever collar you use has to be high on neck behind the ears, like you see in dog shows. Always keep leash loose when your letting them know what you want them to do & do a quick correct by a quick jerk to let them know you don't want them to do that. On the walk, don't let them walk in front of you. while walking, give quick short jerk if they step away from you to smell before they get to smelling area. You can also do a figure 8 every so often while walking, this makes them pay attention to you, it's amazing .Stop after 2-3 blocks & say OK to smell. In other words, you choose when to stop.This way, they look to you for leadership & directions. Don't yell or get upset, just say uhuh , try not to use the word "no" too much so they don't get confused. Walk with your head up & shoulders back in a confident way, think of something calm while doing all of this. All my dogs are very well behaved & loved, they have free rein of the house & sleep on couch & with us but this happened after they respected us. I take them to dog park every day. We're pet sitting our 3 small grand dogs now so i take 8 to the parkThey don't pull or react to any dogs on walks. There's some great info on line also, i really like "Dream come true K9" & The Good Dog training on you tube which i still learn from. Dream come true has Q&A on you tube. Patricia McConnel has some very good books out also. Hope this helps0
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You really should neuter him. When he smells a female that's all he can think about & he can smell her from 2 miles away. Also it will lower his testosterone & make him calmer and other dogs will look at him different. When a un neutered male comes in the dog park, he smells so different there's usually trouble, the un neutered male is usually dominant. Also there won't be a chance of more unwanted puppies, in my town 500 dogs get put down a week due to over population. This Thursday 22nd is national Remember me Thursday, to remember all the dogs that didn't get out of the shelter alive, so sad0
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one more...sorry, i get so excited when talking about dogs i think of something else i want to share. I have a pitti mix, shepherd/akita, shepherd mix, lab mix & chihuahua. I just want to add the bike. I often take my big guy on bike runs & like to share a hands free way of doing it. I wrap the end of leash under my bike seat with just enough leash so their nose doesn't go past the front wheel. I walk them with the bike first & make them aware of the tires by lightly turning it toward them & saying "watch out" then after a while, depending on the dog, i get on & ride. My dogs in the past have pulled me, but Grizzly, my 100lb dog, i didn't want him to pull so i put a choke collar on him when we go. He's great doing this & has learned what it means to turn, slow down, stop. I have to keep my eye out for squirls & tell him "no squirl" before we get to it, but i wanted to share wrapping leash under seat because it's in the middle of the bike & they can't pull you down if they jump away or pull you after something this way.1
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one more...sorry, i get so excited when talking about dogs i think of something else i want to share. I have a pitti mix, shepherd/akita, shepherd mix, lab mix & chihuahua. I just want to add the bike. I often take my big guy on bike runs & like to share a hands free way of doing it. I wrap the end of leash under my bike seat with just enough leash so their nose doesn't go past the front wheel. I walk them with the bike first & make them aware of the tires by lightly turning it toward them & saying "watch out" then after a while, depending on the dog, i get on & ride. My dogs in the past have pulled me, but Grizzly, my 100lb dog, i didn't want him to pull so i put a choke collar on him when we go. He's great doing this & has learned what it means to turn, slow down, stop. I have to keep my eye out for squirls & tell him "no squirl" before we get to it, but i wanted to share wrapping leash under seat because it's in the middle of the bike & they can't pull you down if they jump away or pull you after something this way.
You have been a wealth of knowledge...and I can tell you really love dogs. You are a brave soul to go biking with your dog... I would love that. YOu have them well trained and behaved.0 -
Update - So I shared with my daughter this discussion here... And I found out part of the problem last night. He think she is his trainer and he respects her more because she trains, rewards and disciplines him MORE than I do. I am the dog walker when she goes to work and what nots. Our walk was totally different when we all walked last night. We also let him "be a dog" as you all stated and let him smell and sniff and play a bit... We went at night when it was less distractions. For the first time in a while it was enjoyable.8
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What do you folks think of this routine for a beginner? http://www.muscleandfitness.com/workouts/workout-routines/complete-mf-beginners-training-guide-0
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I have a french bulldog/blue heeler mix (from what I'm told) named Apollo, and walking him was my biggest problem at first! Especially pulling to go see another dog (I live in a resort area so there are lots of people and dogs). I used to let him pull me over to see great the other dog, then I realized I was teaching him it was ok! Now if another dog is walking towards us, I tell him "leave it" and make him sit. If he does well, he gets a treat. I noticed the faster I walk him, the less distracted he is, but "leave it" definitely works with the sniffing etc. The more you walk your pup, the better he will get
My biggest issue is I'm always walking the dog, and missing out on time in the gym!
Awww! What a cutie! I've often thought that my pibble has some blue heeler in him... and this makes me think he does more than before!
Leave it is such an excellent command, and one that needs to be taught at home with increasing distraction. It's good for all sorts of things!0 -
Leave it is such an excellent command, and one that needs to be taught at home with increasing distraction. It's good for all sorts of things! [/quote]
I will institute Leave It...I like it.
And your dog is in awesome shape....He is such a darling. Love the picture. Thanks for sharing.
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I just had a mishap with my dog yesterday....he tripped me while running, and I went tumbling. But my other dog, a lab, is great at running with me. Definitely use the Gentle Leader... he may not like it at first, but every time you put it on him, give him treats, praise and walks and he'll associate it with good things.0
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joanthemom8 wrote: »I just had a mishap with my dog yesterday....he tripped me while running, and I went tumbling. But my other dog, a lab, is great at running with me. Definitely use the Gentle Leader... he may not like it at first, but every time you put it on him, give him treats, praise and walks and he'll associate it with good things.
Yikes. I hope you are okay. And I am taking good notes from you all!0 -
First and Foremost -- get him neutered!
that will reduce some of the behaviors you see.
Next I would suggest basic training in leash manners and simple commands.
You need to train him that once on leash he is "working" hence, there is no stop, sniff and mark unless you give him the command to do "his business". We have done this with All our rescues no matter what age we start at. It does help my middle daughter works with dogs and trains yes, but it is doable for anyone.
Start with the basics and get him where he consistently listens and responds to cues before you think about starting a running program with him. Plus yes, I would have vet check him out thoroughly to make sure he and his joints are developed enough to do a running program.
The harness is meant for pulling and they instinctively know to pull on it so to reduce pulling Do Not put him in a harness. They also are not good if you are needing to give a correction.
Nose harness are Not good. Dogs do not lead by the nose as do others like horses. Plus you really have NO way to effectively and safely give a correction for behaviors.
A martingale is effective for most but it has to be Fitted correctly (should be loose around neck) and used correctly to be effective. Most people do not realize it must hang loose on neck until you "pop" a bit on leash to give a correction. This effectively tightens and then releases which is the correction for behaviors.
I would recommend the "good dog" collar fit loosely to start with since he is a puppy and still developing. They give an effective correction with no chance of injury to the dog and his trachea when fitted and used correctly.
A flat collar is fine to wear around the house and in yard if you so want but the "good dog" collar should be worn for all walking/training purposes.
Hopefully this helps some. There are several decent books out there that will help with basics, but there are also a ton out there who have no useful practical purpose other than to get your money. The library may have books you can use to help start on basics.
Sit, down, stay, leave it, drop, etc...
We also train our pack to automatically sit when we come to a corner and wait for us to give verbal walk command before we start across the street. This helps us and also, if heaven forbid they ever get out to hopefully not dart across roads willy nilly as they would hopefully get to corner and sit/lay down.... if nothing else it does help us have more control on walking across streets.0 -
Katiebear_81 wrote: »I have a french bulldog/blue heeler mix (from what I'm told) named Apollo, and walking him was my biggest problem at first! Especially pulling to go see another dog (I live in a resort area so there are lots of people and dogs). I used to let him pull me over to see great the other dog, then I realized I was teaching him it was ok! Now if another dog is walking towards us, I tell him "leave it" and make him sit. If he does well, he gets a treat. I noticed the faster I walk him, the less distracted he is, but "leave it" definitely works with the sniffing etc. The more you walk your pup, the better he will get
My biggest issue is I'm always walking the dog, and missing out on time in the gym!
Awww! What a cutie! I've often thought that my pibble has some blue heeler in him... and this makes me think he does more than before!
Leave it is such an excellent command, and one that needs to be taught at home with increasing distraction. It's good for all sorts of things!
Aw- yours is adorable too!! I bet he does have some blue heeler!0 -
Since everyone is sharing pics! Here are my girls! I also included a pic of my whole gang, since cats were mentioned. My cats walk with me most days
My girls walk in martingale collars, but neither are particularly strong pullers (the big girl walks off leash at home. Little one is almost ready for that). I'm not a fan of halter type devices, but I know some people swear by them. When my little one was in obedience class a couple of months ago, the trainer had some of the bigger dogs in a harness that you hook up to in the front (can't remember the name off the top of my head). I usually equate harnesses with MORE pulling, but was amazed at the difference with those dogs!
Also, I vote against dog parks. Prefer play dates with dogs and humans I know and trust. My mom just witnessed a friend's young dog get the hell beat out of him at a dog park (and require many many stitches). And I was so thankful my mom's small dog and my mom were not hurt in the fray. The few times I've gone, I've seen too many neurotic dogs and oblivious owners. Not a fan.
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I love the pictures. Pictures are most definitely welcomed!!!!0
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Face halters are NOT meant for correction. If done up correctly, and attached to the leash correctly, it is a passive pulling deterrent, because it moves their head to the side when they pull. It is not intended to "lead" the dog by their face.
I would not use it during running/biking, as the dog can end up with soft tissue damage (ie. whiplash) if you stop suddenly and they are still going, etc. The same is true if you "pop" their leash with a face halter on - you can damage their necks. It's a very useful tool to passively remind the dog to stop pulling, but it's not meant for correction. Both of my dogs wear one when we're walking, and they work really well.
Both of my dogs know the difference between their halter for walks (which one dog will NOT pull when he's in) and their proper pulling harness (for weight pulling, or for pulling sleds/skateboards/etc). Your mileage may vary. But you can try different things - just use one thing consistently for a while to see what your dog responds to, and then change if it isn't working. 1 -
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What a handsome dog! Very nice. 0
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