Suits

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ilfaith

I haven't worn a suit since the late 90s...when it was all tiny Ally McBeal-inspired mini skirts.



Alas, no pictures of me in my suits, as selfies were not yet a thing.

But those church suits are fascinating. We have friends who, whenever we visit, we join them at church on Sunday. We've gone with them when they lived in New York, Chicago, and Houston...mostly for the music. They tease us that maybe we want to be Baptist. We tell them we just want to be black. Seriously, if our synagogue had choirs like they do, I'd be at services every shabbos. But aside from the music, what I enjoy most is the fashion show. The women (and some of the men) in their fabulous, colorful suits...and the hats. Oh the hats. There are women at my temple who wear hats to services, but they don't compare to the hats of these church ladies. As if my family didn't stand out enough being the only white people in the room...our boring attire amid this costume parade only makes us look more like interlopers. But I could never get away with wearing such things...although I did have a fabulous red skirt suit back in the day. Now I feel like the only place I see women wearing suits that aren't black, navy, or grey is on CSPAN...somehow our Congresswomen are the only women not afraid of a little color...

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FabulousFantasticFifty

The Beautiful Suits Guy Gabriel Macht wearing Fantastic Suits!

Deisler26

I do love Macht's suits. I would kill for a bespoke suit, tbqh.

I posted my suit selfie a few pages back, but I just don't think I ever look good in them

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Deisler26

leut_underpants wrote: »

Deisler26 wrote: »

I do love Macht's suits. I would kill for a bespoke suit, tbqh.

I posted my suit selfie a few pages back, but I just don't think I ever look good in them

I went back and looked. I'm going to offer a critique, but please accept it in the spirit it's offered. I'm not intending to harm your feelings, only address your own perception of how you look in it.

In my opinion, you'd look just fine in a suit that was sized properly for you and accessorized right. The one you have on in that photo is woefully too short for you, like 3-4 inches short in the length of the body of the jacket. It's hard to overcome that. Same with the tie length, it's tied way too short. The whole effect makes you look like you're wearing a suit you grew out of, height wise, many years earlier.

The color and cut are good, lapels may be a little skinny for your build, sleeves on shirt are about an inch too long - it makes the sleeves on the jacket look short, even if they might not be.

Something properly sized, even an off the rack suit that is tailored up, might change your perception of how you look in a suit tremendously.

@Deisler26

I appreciate you taking the time and effort to comment.

I agree that a properly tailored suit might help, but at the moment, cash is tight. But I have screencapped the help and will refer to it next time.

Thank you.

_Captivated_

I was told to come here. But last time I came here I got in trouble. So I will sit quietly on the sidelines.

sugaraddict4321

Not sure about this one.

_Captivated_

I dress like a slob. Do you still love me @leut_underpants ?

MistressPi

sugaraddict4321 wrote: »

Not sure about this one.

Overall, I think it's just too big for her. It doesn't flatter her. Especially don't like those voluminous pant legs, too long, and cuffed.. why??

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sugaraddict4321

That's a really great comparison, @leut_underpants - but I'm curious, why not buy a smaller waist pant instead of taking it in 2 inches? Also what is "suppressing the waist"? Making tucks or something?

betty_veronica4

Just have to say I LOVE the tailoring comparison. I have to get my clothes altered all the time. I am 6' tall and it is really hard to get things to fit right in length and waist/hips at same time. Good tailoring makes ALL the difference....and takes both pounds and years off of your appearance.

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goatg

leut_underpants wrote: »

sugaraddict4321 wrote: »

That's a really great comparison, @leut_underpants - but I'm curious, why not buy a smaller waist pant instead of taking it in 2 inches? Also what is "suppressing the waist"? Making tucks or something?

@sugaraddict4321 About to get wordy, sorry about that.

Because in traditional suiting, you don't get a choice. Traditional suiting comes in a "drop" between jacket and pants, typically 6 inches. So 42L minus 6 = 36 pant. That may or may not work for the buyer, but it's typically close enough for alterations to not make the pant look crazy on them.

Big trouble comes when I need a 44L, which I do with most manufacturers. There's also a magic number between chest and shoulders that not many people know about. Around my shoulders I measure 51 inches. Around my chest is short of 42. So I have a nearly ten inch drop between those two numbers. It's exceedingly rare to see more than 7, and what that means is that I have to buy a bigger size than my chest number indicates, because the shoulders won't fit if I don't...and that's really what needs to fit, rather than the chest. Chest is the number it's sold by, shoulders are what actually matter, along with the lay of the lapels and collar on the chest and neck. Has little to do with chest at all, other than a convenient place for the math to work out most of the time.

This particular manufacturer makes this cut in such a way that it fits my shoulders really well using the lower size number.

There are such a thing as suit separates (pants sold on their own). When they're available, they're great for a guy like me. Just weren't an option in this case.

Suppressing the waist means taking it in along the seams that the manufacturer used in shaping it. There's usually 4 side seams and a back center seam. Cheaper tailors will take in excess via the center seam, which can lead to the jacket not looking right from behind if there's a lot to remove. Taking center can also leave less breadth across the back, and I need all of the room there.

A more expensive option is to take out a little from each of the side seams. The tailor won't be altering the entire lower part of the jacket, instead just "pinching" at the waist, like a corset without any structure. Again, my weird dimensions make tailoring hard, this is why suits get expensive for me; it's 30-40% tailoring cost. A more normal proportioned person has less altering to do.

This one is a better example of how it should all come together, eventually, and what good tailoring can do.

In another life you and I might get along quite well.

goatg

leut_underpants wrote: »

goatg wrote: »

leut_underpants wrote: »

sugaraddict4321 wrote: »

That's a really great comparison, @leut_underpants - but I'm curious, why not buy a smaller waist pant instead of taking it in 2 inches? Also what is "suppressing the waist"? Making tucks or something?

@sugaraddict4321 About to get wordy, sorry about that.

Because in traditional suiting, you don't get a choice. Traditional suiting comes in a "drop" between jacket and pants, typically 6 inches. So 42L minus 6 = 36 pant. That may or may not work for the buyer, but it's typically close enough for alterations to not make the pant look crazy on them.

Big trouble comes when I need a 44L, which I do with most manufacturers. There's also a magic number between chest and shoulders that not many people know about. Around my shoulders I measure 51 inches. Around my chest is short of 42. So I have a nearly ten inch drop between those two numbers. It's exceedingly rare to see more than 7, and what that means is that I have to buy a bigger size than my chest number indicates, because the shoulders won't fit if I don't...and that's really what needs to fit, rather than the chest. Chest is the number it's sold by, shoulders are what actually matter, along with the lay of the lapels and collar on the chest and neck. Has little to do with chest at all, other than a convenient place for the math to work out most of the time.

This particular manufacturer makes this cut in such a way that it fits my shoulders really well using the lower size number.

There are such a thing as suit separates (pants sold on their own). When they're available, they're great for a guy like me. Just weren't an option in this case.

Suppressing the waist means taking it in along the seams that the manufacturer used in shaping it. There's usually 4 side seams and a back center seam. Cheaper tailors will take in excess via the center seam, which can lead to the jacket not looking right from behind if there's a lot to remove. Taking center can also leave less breadth across the back, and I need all of the room there.

A more expensive option is to take out a little from each of the side seams. The tailor won't be altering the entire lower part of the jacket, instead just "pinching" at the waist, like a corset without any structure. Again, my weird dimensions make tailoring hard, this is why suits get expensive for me; it's 30-40% tailoring cost. A more normal proportioned person has less altering to do.

This one is a better example of how it should all come together, eventually, and what good tailoring can do.

In another life you and I might get along quite well.

I was unaware we weren't getting along now. Good to know. :ohwell:

"quite well"

Please stop making me feel like a grammarian? :flowerforyou:

Lift_Run_Eat

UrBaconMeCr8zy wrote: »

leut_underpants wrote: »

Same size and model of suit. Light gray is out of the box. Obviously doesn't look great, but that's the point. Most guys would get the pants hemmed and call it good. Here's what actually needs to happen to this suit to make it look right.

Take in waist on pants 2"
Take in seat on pants a bit
Hem pants to top of shoes
Suppress waist in jacket about 3"
Take up sleeves 1.5"
Drop collar 1/2"

The charcoal suit has had all of these alterations done, and looks pretty good. The unaltered suit jacket makes me look about 30 pounds heavier...not good. It's really boxy and unflattering, despite being a fairly trim cut of suit. Whatever size you are, get it to fit you.

@Avocado_AS5
@UrBaconMeCr8zy

I'm glad you posted a before tailoring pic!

I love that you posted the comparison. I like a guy in a perfect fitted suit. This proves the point how much better it looks. Adds more class too. Untailored just looks frumpy.

I think because of you and this thread, I go around paying a lot more attention to guys in suits and how they are wearing them...not just if they look good in it or not.

_Captivated_

leut_underpants wrote: »

sugaraddict4321 wrote: »

That's a really great comparison, @leut_underpants - but I'm curious, why not buy a smaller waist pant instead of taking it in 2 inches? Also what is "suppressing the waist"? Making tucks or something?

@sugaraddict4321 About to get wordy, sorry about that.

Because in traditional suiting, you don't get a choice. Traditional suiting comes in a "drop" between jacket and pants, typically 6 inches. So 42L minus 6 = 36 pant. That may or may not work for the buyer, but it's typically close enough for alterations to not make the pant look crazy on them.

Big trouble comes when I need a 44L, which I do with most manufacturers. There's also a magic number between chest and shoulders that not many people know about. Around my shoulders I measure 51 inches. Around my chest is short of 42. So I have a nearly ten inch drop between those two numbers. It's exceedingly rare to see more than 7, and what that means is that I have to buy a bigger size than my chest number indicates, because the shoulders won't fit if I don't...and that's really what needs to fit, rather than the chest. Chest is the number it's sold by, shoulders are what actually matter, along with the lay of the lapels and collar on the chest and neck. Has little to do with chest at all, other than a convenient place for the math to work out most of the time.

This particular manufacturer makes this cut in such a way that it fits my shoulders really well using the lower size number.

There are such a thing as suit separates (pants sold on their own). When they're available, they're great for a guy like me. Just weren't an option in this case.

Suppressing the waist means taking it in along the seams that the manufacturer used in shaping it. There's usually 4 side seams and a back center seam. Cheaper tailors will take in excess via the center seam, which can lead to the jacket not looking right from behind if there's a lot to remove. Taking center can also leave less breadth across the back, and I need all of the room there.

A more expensive option is to take out a little from each of the side seams. The tailor won't be altering the entire lower part of the jacket, instead just "pinching" at the waist, like a corset without any structure. Again, my weird dimensions make tailoring hard, this is why suits get expensive for me; it's 30-40% tailoring cost. A more normal proportioned person has less altering to do.

This one is a better example of how it should all come together, eventually, and what good tailoring can do.

xxerniexx

just bought my first suit yesterday for the biggest interview of my life next month, i will post a pic when i get it back from being altered

goatg

leut_underpants wrote: »

This is seriously messing with my head. Everything about this picture reminds me of my Lover. Especially the eyes.

The tailoring, discussion around it, and smirk don't help either.

*kitten*.


Don't smile. It's not you.

xFunctionalStrengthx

leut_underpants wrote: »

sugaraddict4321 wrote: »

That's a really great comparison, @leut_underpants - but I'm curious, why not buy a smaller waist pant instead of taking it in 2 inches? Also what is "suppressing the waist"? Making tucks or something?

@sugaraddict4321 About to get wordy, sorry about that.

Because in traditional suiting, you don't get a choice. Traditional suiting comes in a "drop" between jacket and pants, typically 6 inches. So 42L minus 6 = 36 pant. That may or may not work for the buyer, but it's typically close enough for alterations to not make the pant look crazy on them.

Big trouble comes when I need a 44L, which I do with most manufacturers. There's also a magic number between chest and shoulders that not many people know about. Around my shoulders I measure 51 inches. Around my chest is short of 42. So I have a nearly ten inch drop between those two numbers. It's exceedingly rare to see more than 7, and what that means is that I have to buy a bigger size than my chest number indicates, because the shoulders won't fit if I don't...and that's really what needs to fit, rather than the chest. Chest is the number it's sold by, shoulders are what actually matter, along with the lay of the lapels and collar on the chest and neck. Has little to do with chest at all, other than a convenient place for the math to work out most of the time.

This particular manufacturer makes this cut in such a way that it fits my shoulders really well using the lower size number.

There are such a thing as suit separates (pants sold on their own). When they're available, they're great for a guy like me. Just weren't an option in this case.

Suppressing the waist means taking it in along the seams that the manufacturer used in shaping it. There's usually 4 side seams and a back center seam. Cheaper tailors will take in excess via the center seam, which can lead to the jacket not looking right from behind if there's a lot to remove. Taking center can also leave less breadth across the back, and I need all of the room there.

A more expensive option is to take out a little from each of the side seams. The tailor won't be altering the entire lower part of the jacket, instead just "pinching" at the waist, like a corset without any structure. Again, my weird dimensions make tailoring hard, this is why suits get expensive for me; it's 30-40% tailoring cost. A more normal proportioned person has less altering to do.

This one is a better example of how it should all come together, eventually, and what good tailoring can do.

Great explanation, and picture comparisons. I'm one who cannot buy off the shelf suits, as they all need to be tailored due to my body type. It's rare to find a longer length suit jacket, and they have to hem the pants legs quite a bit. Reminds me, I should check my suits to make sure they still fit.