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Prusik self-belay acceptable?

NorthCascadesNorthCascades Posts: 8,595Member Member Posts: 8,595Member Member
I know there are a few climbers in here. I'd love a second opinion on this. Obviously only when a real partner isn't available. I have a friction route in mind, 50 yards from the road, drilled anchor at the top. (I have a PLB.)

Replies

  • jjpptt2jjpptt2 Posts: 4,439Member Member Posts: 4,439Member Member
    I've just started climbing, so I'm really just curious to see who else climbs...
  • aes1219aes1219 Posts: 301Member Member Posts: 301Member Member
    Climber here - I have never self belayed and I don't think I ever will. There are some good reddit boards that discuss self belaying though. Lead climbing or top roping? What is the route graded and what do you typically climb outdoors?
  • NorthCascadesNorthCascades Posts: 8,595Member Member Posts: 8,595Member Member
    Top rope, there's a short 5.4 friction route, so not much arm use, just for balance. Thinking (days when I can't get a partner) I'll tie the rope around the midpoint at the anchor to have two independent stands, and wrap a prusik around each. Move up, slide the knots up. Once I get up above the ground, it's a clean fall. I'm comfortable on 5.8 and can climb a little higher, with a real belay.

    I'm general I feel pretty comfortable with the idea, and that I should try it and see how it goes. But felt like a sanity check was in order.
  • aes1219aes1219 Posts: 301Member Member Posts: 301Member Member
    Top rope, there's a short 5.4 friction route, so not much arm use, just for balance. Thinking (days when I can't get a partner) I'll tie the rope around the midpoint at the anchor to have two independent stands, and wrap a prusik around each. Move up, slide the knots up. Once I get up above the ground, it's a clean fall. I'm comfortable on 5.8 and can climb a little higher, with a real belay.

    I'm general I feel pretty comfortable with the idea, and that I should try it and see how it goes. But felt like a sanity check was in order.

    Since it's a 5.4 you should be okay doing that. I would consider trying to climb it that way while on a second belay from a friend the first time you do it. That way you can feel comfortable, get used to the setup, while also being 100% safe.

    Is there any bouldering in the area? You can always boulder alone. Or if the face of that eoute is wide enough you could traverse.
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