Fitness, exercise and MY DOG...HELP!!! How do you do it :/
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I just haven't used it yet.0
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MeanderingMammal wrote: »So I've got a Staffordshire Bull Terrier, a rescue who had been neglected, possibly abused, by a former owner.
What I've found is different harnesses and collars are appropriate to different contexts, and he recognises what each means.
When we're out for a dog walk then he's on a shorter leash and stays close to me, that gives me much more control and using a chest harness I can keep him moving without letting him stop and sniff.
When we're on a more leisurely walk then he's on an extending lead that allows him a bit more range to explore. That needs a firm tone when he's dawdling and he has to come to me. Sounds like you need to work on this, so as upthread some form of classes will help. Those classes are for you as much as him, you need to be the Alpha and he needs to recognise that.
Authority is exercised on the shorter leash, and at home, and you need to learn to do that.
He also has a Canicross harness and bungee leash, and when that's on he knows we're running. The only real issue there is the need for nature stops, which can be a but inopportune. You learn how to stop swiftly when they squat without warning.
I would also agree with the value in neutering. It does help moderate the behaviour.
Wow, this is smart. I never thought of this.0 -
He needs some training, or he's going to be a nightmare. We have a 14 week old American Staffy X which is already trained to sit and watch other people and dogs when we're out walking, and that there is a time to sniff and a time to leave it.
At 9 months, your dog is too young for structured runs, it can affect his joints. I had the same ideas as you of running with my pup but I've learned I'm going to have to hold off until he's at least 18 months.
Regarding the sniffing - they do that. It's how they explore and learn. We have broken walks into 2 types - the exercise walk, which takes the same route every time (thus making it less interesting) and the sniffy walk, where we take him to new places and let him noodle around and sniff. Exercise walk is short leash, sniffy walk is longer retractable leash.
It's important that they get the chance to explore their world, it makes them a better behaved dog, and takes the novelty off new things. The less they get to experience different things in their own way, the more excited they get when something new crosses their path. By letting him sniff all the other smells, he's less likely to lose his mind when something new crosses his path.
Remember you are going to have to work with him - he's not going to do exactly what you want without work, and you're going to have to let him do some of the things he wants, or you're going to end up with an unhappy dog.2 -
Godblessedmom wrote: »Obedience class is a good idea. We have a new dog and I have used the tips by Cesar. It is working. Here is a link.
https://www.cesarsway.com/dog-training/walking/6-tips-for-mastering-the-dog-walk
You can find videos on Cesar Millan and his way of walking a dog. Good luck!!
I recommend The Dog Whisperer technique too....if dogs are in run mode they ignore just about everything, when walking they are investigating and searching getting to know who's in the neighborhood and then leaving their scent...funny animals. I have a toy poodle (scared of other dogs) and a havernese (my social butterfly). My ex has pit bulls (friendly, head strong, lovable). I've walked them before as young dogs...they are very strong and hard to control without the right leash, and definitely obedience school is a must cause pretty soon he will be dragging you and you will not be able to control him. When walking dogs they are suppose to be right at your side, not ahead of you. You might need two hands and wrap leash around your hands to control him until he learns his rightful spot at.... your side or behind...cause you are the leader of the pack, not him. Many animal shelters neuter pits for free. Check it out. Someone mentioned PetSmart. The people at my local one are very friendly and knowledgeble. They can guide you to the right leash, etc. and they offer dog training. My local human society offers free training on a first-come basis. BTW...He's a handsome fellow...2 -
I can tell you one problem you have with your cutie hes not neutered which makes him a little bit more excited to stop and smell all the flowers during your run and he might become agressive towards other dogs and people if you don't neuter him. My neighbor has female pit bull "diamond" and that dog is a law suit waiting to happen not spayed extremely aggressive even though she is very loved by her people and they don't breed her the husband doesnt believe in spaying "shaking my head" I don't get that one. Not every dog is cut out to run, just like people some of us just don't want to run we would rather sniff the flowers on a nice long walk. You could walk him for 30 mins and take him home and go run by yourself its a win-win for you and him you get to slim down get fit and he can be a couch potatoe.
Good luck hes very hansome reminds me of the dog from turner and hooch.0 -
I also second (third? fourth?) neutering your dog.0
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I run my dog in retriever competitions so she's very well trained (I trained her myself). She heals off leash no matter what's around. An unleashed dog could run up and sniff her rear at the same time a kid runs up and tries to feed her a hotdog and she won't break her heal.
The first thing to do is don't walk when he pulls on lead. Just stop and don't move until he heals and sits nicely by your side, then continue your walk, even if it's only two steps until you repeat the process. You are trying to teach the concept that walking only occurs when he follows your rules.
Those group obedience classes are fine but a trainer that boards him while he trains him will give you a much better dog. In my area they run $20-25 a day and basic obedience takes around a month. But starting with a dog that already has bad habits will extend that time.
Good luck.1 -
my city seems to have more dog owners than parents, and they seem to have a real community spirit.
you sound a bit overwhelmed. so if it's the same where you live, could you reach out to people you meet with dogs that seem to be more with the program than yours? compliment their pet's manners and ask where they got the guidance, and that way you can start collecting local suggestions and a little on-ground support. i'm thinking the same kind of thing as when you see a woman with an amazing haircut and tell her you just have to ask
disclaimer: dogs do nothing for me, personally. but i respect the ones that i meet who have manners.1 -
Get that boy to class. They don't come trained. That's our job. He should be learning sit, down, stay, COME (super important to his safety), and loose leash walking/heeling. A class or trainer will also help with getting him focused on you and not everything else and will give you tools to help refocus him. Pitties are strong and highly energetic, especially as youngsters, and the more schooling he can get, the easier your life will be with him. Also, because of all the stigma behind the breed, having him well trained will make him a good ambassador for the breed, and they need all they can get. I would encourage you to aim toward a Canine Good Citizen certification (a program for dogs set up by the AKC that proves a dog is, well, a good citizen). Most obedience schools will have classes that end in going through the final testing.
And, please please, get him neutered. I love pitties, but we really don't need more.
As for exercising with him, I don't put a lot of emphasis on burning calories with my girls. I walk with them for their enjoyment and enrichment and their exercise. If I do want to walk a bit more vigorously and move on a bit (usually while hiking), I give them a few minutes to sniff, pee, and generally explore. Then I just don't let them. I don't run with them, but mostly because my big girl is older and a bit arthritic and can do more miles walking and hiking on dirt and gras than running. The little one would be game for it, but it's been too hot....and I don't like taking her and leaving my big girl (my true love) behind!0 -
For Pete's sake, as a dog lover - especially of Pits - get him neutered ASAP.2
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I use a gentle halter/ halt I for my husky. He was a former sled dog and anything else on him he pulls like mad. I also had to leash train him. What i did was: put leash on dog. Take a few steps if he went in front of me. I stopped. I wouldn't move until he turned to look at me. With the halti if they pull they auto turn to look at you. Then I gave him a signal with my hand and spoke back. Now all I have to do when he starts getting ahead is put two fingers in his eye sight and he backs up into his proper place. Time consuming yes. Worth it yes. When it comes to other dogs you have options. Let you dog sniff and say lets go and start walking. Or you can say leave it and keep walking. Remember if your dog is walking at your knee you have full control. When you pass the dog , even if it wasn't 100%perfect, say thank you to your dog . Why not good boy, because that keeps the dog in an excited manner. I have not had many issues. I have now had my husky for 8 years. We walk every chance we get. We walk past a group of 5-7 dogs on any given day and several loose ones. It just takes time. Please do not give up on your dog. Dogs love to sniff pee mail. They learn so much from sniffing other dogs pee. Peeing on everything is your dogs way of saying, hey I own this. Just be patient. The more you walk him the better that gets.2
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I would not rush to neuter unless you're seeing serious aggression issues. Yes, you will need to do it -- as someone said, we don't need more pitties -- but waiting until he's more fully developed seems to be the way to go to avoid future health complications. A gonadectomy will remove the source of hormones that are useful for physical development. The move to waiting longer for neutering is something that is changing over the last few years. I've lost a couple of dogs at a relatively young age to cancers that may be linked to excessively early neutering. I'm talking neutering that was done at less than six months of age.
At 9 months of age, your pup's training and socialization is the goal. You've gotten some good hints here, including a head harness, one of the most dramatically effective ways to bring a bouncy dog under control without using pain techniques such as a pinch or slip collar.2 -
I have a dog that needs to sniff and mark everything. My trick with her is taking her on frequent walks, always on the same route. She has become comfortable and doesn't need to sniff/mark as much or at all.
Also, positive reinforcement. Run/Walk with treats, reward every few steps he walks with with you. That way he realizes that deferring to you is more rewarding than sniffing everything or even seeing other dogs.0 -
What breed is he? Is he neutered? I have a Bullmastiff, so I get what you mean by wanting to nip it in the butt before he gets any bigger. I noticed that right before we got Dutch (Bullmastiff) neutered he was maturing and wanted to mark/sniff everything. Once he was neutered, that was no more. Ote (Chihuahua) wants to mark everything though and she's an unspayed female. So I think it has a lot to do with that. She is small enough that she got the point of a few quick tugs of the leash and now she realizes that she needs to keep walking and not sniff/mark everything in sight. You may need a choker collar for a large, stubborn dog though. My best friend uses one on her English Bulldog which I was so against at first, and then she had me put it on my thigh and pulled. Definitely not painful, just annoying. Could be a solution.
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STLBADGIRL wrote: »Joanna2012B wrote: »I am certainly not an expert but everything I have read indicates that you shouldn't start running with your dog until they are at least 8 months. What breed of dog do you have? I would suggest doing what @jemhh did with her dog by taking them through the training plan. Also watch it's not too hot for their pads and watch for heat exhaustion!! Have fun....I'm so jealous...my dogs are too old to start them running with me!!
Rhino is a pit-bull....the original owner died when he was about 4 months old and we got him because he wasn't in the best situation. We obvisouly have love for him and want him to grow with our family, but don't know the best about dogs.... We took him on a car ride to the park and he puked everywhere....the officer, that so happened to love dogs, told us that it was too soon to take him riding....
OMG he is gorgeous! He will make a perfect running companion when he is trained to do so. They are one of the most loving and loyal breeds. Unfortunately they are banned where I am. It is so maddening. I would definitely start with neutering if you don't plan on breeding him. This will help a little. Otherwise lots of patience and strongly suggest an obedience training.
I am sorry, the office told you he was too young for a .....car ride???? Every single one of my dogs was taken in the car at young age to get them used to the car. Give it time he may just be under a lot of stress seeing that he was with another family for some time before coming to you.
I wish you all the best with that gorgeous fur baby!!0 -
+1 for Neutering and Puppy Obedience. Also do some one-on-one leash practice in your house, private yard or some place other than public spaces so that you can focus on your relationship with your pup, avoid distractions, and reinforce good behaviors.
I have fostered and adopted Great Danes, all with various temperaments. I've learned not to take chances with my dog or other people/other dogs. Last year I adopted a neutered male 7 year old, weighing @ 125# who likes to sniff and pee on everything, but at the same time can pull my arm out of my socket when he sees approaching dogs. He's one of the giants that I've known that will always need to be walked on a pinch collar and a short 2-ply nylon lead. When we are running, he is distracted long enough to keep pace, but he still makes a point of trying to meet other dogs (often in an alarming way). We just started walking at night when it's cooler and fewer distractions.0 -
For Pete's sake, as a dog lover - especially of Pits - get him neutered ASAP.
Ok, ok, ok....we didn't know. I thought it would be messing with his manhood. Sorry to be so ignorant...but my only mission was to save him from a bad environment. You all are helping me TREMENDOUSLY!!! I so am soaking it in and taking notes to get him neutered and some training.2 -
We have two bullies, and both are still learning to walk politely on a leash. Here is what I've learned:
1. When you use the head harness, they will hate it. One of my dogs ended up removing some of the skin on his nose trying to get out of it while he was with my spouse on the bike. He is fine, fully healed, etc, but he dragged his face on the ground trying to get it off. Neither of our dogs likes it, but both need it, and will tolerate it if they're kept busy.
2. Whomever told you your dog is too young for car rides is an idiot. You may, however, have a dog that doesn't travel well. You can talk to your vet about that. Also ask how long they can be running for at this age... it might fit into your plans (depending on how far/long you're running).
3. I would get him neutered. Whenever you decide, but it should be done. Even just to prevent him accidentally getting out and breeding more dogs. My heart breaks for all these dogs being euthanized because of how they look, and who their parents were.
4. Ceasar Millan's ways are not the end-all-be-all. Anyone who tells you that you HAVE to use force in order to make a power-breed respect/listen to you is full of *kitten*. My female dog responds well to a more disciplinarian approach, while my male dog shuts down if you raise your voice (or hand, or whatever). He requires a very positive training approach and responds best to food rewards. I personally prefer Victoria Stillwell's even approach to training, and recommend looking into her stuff over Milan's.
5. Look for a trainer who specializes in power-breeds. They understand the temperaments better, and will give you better practical advice. They're also more tolerant of bad doggy behaviour and will work with you to fix it.
6. My dogs have both been queued by "let's go". They know that they can't keep sniffing at this point.
7. Don't take your dog out any more without a secondary restraint system on him. I'm being dead serious - if your dog lost his crap and ran up to my dog (who is leashed properly), my dog would attack yours. She's not friendly with other dogs (she's an AWESOME dog, we just think that she has a dubious past, and was used for nefarious purposes). So for the safety of your dogs, and the other dogs who are on leash, DO NOT take him out without a secondary leash system until your training is sound. A fight will be extremely costly to you and to your dog, and can lead to behavioural issues in his future (ie. fear of dogs, willingness to fight, etc.). One bad altercation can take years of training, socializing and desensitization to "fix" a dog.
Whether it's your dog or someone else's.
Your dog is a beauty, by the way!!!3 -
Oh, and I swear by a leash that you can wear around your waist. It's much harder for a dog to lunch off your center of gravity, vs. the length of your arm. And it won't hurt as much
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+1000 for training and neutering.
i run with my dog and he is into sniffing and marking as well, but we have an interval based system that works really well for us. (i got him when he was 5 already and he knew basic commands but had always been walked off leash, i'm lucky though that he loves to learn and is very food motivated). anyway, our first five minutes is "warm up" time, during that time he gets his most urgent business out of the way and sniffs around, but when time is up and i say "ready, bronx?" he goes right into a run interval and keeps pace next to me on a short leash until i say "recovery", then he poops lol, then we repeat the interval commands. it's a good balance for him because he gets his time to sniff and explore during the walk intervals and he gets exercise during the run intervals. it works for me too because it's hotter than hell out and i like to slow down for a bit as well.
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I have a large, strong, stubborn dog, and teaching him to walk on a leash was a huge PITA, and he still has some work to do, but be patient, and it'll get better. I agree with whoever said to stop walking as soon as he pulls. Correct him with a snap of his collar and stand still. That may mean it takes an hour to get around the block, but eventually, he'll catch on. BE CONSISTENT. And the more you walk, the better it'll get.
I prefer prong collars to choke collars, like this one: https://smile.amazon.com/Imports-Herm-Sprenger-Training-Release/dp/B0009YUFMK/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1474395581&sr=1-2&keywords=prong+collar
I know it looks menacing, but it can only tighten so much, so it won't hurt your dog. With a standard choke chain, a strong dog could actually cause damage by pulling too hard.1 -
i have two pitbulls both tiny and runts. Luckily they are happy laying around all day. One of them is an angel on walks the other is a psychopath pretending shes on the hunt in the jungle ha. What helped me is a front lead harness foooor sure.0
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You all have been so helpful. Yes, I was ready to throw in the towel, but Rhino might have a chance of a good full life now. I was so exhausted and dreaded going on walks with him. Also, I wanted to mention that he is very well trained INSIDE OF THE HOME, it's when we go outside and the other distractions that goes on. And he just looooooooooves being outside...but he doesn't know how to act in a way that it is enjoyable for us....
Someone mentioned a doggy park. Rhino would lose his mind (and also be in dog heaven) if I took him to a dog park. He needs to be more trained before I can feel at ease at doing that.
I went to an outdoor ice cream shop yesterday and noticed dogs sitting and well behaved...I was so jealous ---LOL. But you all are giving me hope that I can have a happy life with my dog.0 -
Also, I've read a couple of times in here...."we do not need more pitties".... Why is that? Is it because of the stereotype that comes along with the breed of dog? Because inside of the home he is better acting that my friend's toy poodle. Just curious as to your thoughts on that.1
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peaceout_aly wrote: »
What breed is he? Is he neutered? I have a Bullmastiff, so I get what you mean by wanting to nip it in the butt before he gets any bigger. I noticed that right before we got Dutch (Bullmastiff) neutered he was maturing and wanted to mark/sniff everything. Once he was neutered, that was no more. Ote (Chihuahua) wants to mark everything though and she's an unspayed female. So I think it has a lot to do with that. She is small enough that she got the point of a few quick tugs of the leash and now she realizes that she needs to keep walking and not sniff/mark everything in sight. You may need a choker collar for a large, stubborn dog though. My best friend uses one on her English Bulldog which I was so against at first, and then she had me put it on my thigh and pulled. Definitely not painful, just annoying. Could be a solution.
Cute fit on your doggie.... You have fine looking pups....0 -
That's why I have cats1
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jessiferrrb wrote: »+1000 for training and neutering.
i run with my dog and he is into sniffing and marking as well, but we have an interval based system that works really well for us. (i got him when he was 5 already and he knew basic commands but had always been walked off leash, i'm lucky though that he loves to learn and is very food motivated). anyway, our first five minutes is "warm up" time, during that time he gets his most urgent business out of the way and sniffs around, but when time is up and i say "ready, bronx?" he goes right into a run interval and keeps pace next to me on a short leash until i say "recovery", then he poops lol, then we repeat the interval commands. it's a good balance for him because he gets his time to sniff and explore during the walk intervals and he gets exercise during the run intervals. it works for me too because it's hotter than hell out and i like to slow down for a bit as well.
This is truly a Kodak moment...he should be dog model...lol2 -
A disproportionate number of dogs in shelters are Bull variants. Here in the UK it's Staffs.
Partly it's because of the image, lots of puppy farms trend towards these types as they're easy to sell, but then people that struggle to handle them end up abandoning.
Fwiw I read something the other day talking about a trecento survey that highlighted far higher levels of aggression in toy breeds.1 -
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Raptor2763 wrote: »That's why I have cats
I dunno about cats....lol. but I know I wouldn't have to walk them...
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