Cycling problems
JuliaH728
Posts: 39 Member
I suck at cycling. I don't know what my problem is. I have gotten my bike professionally fitted now so it isn't making my shoulders/neck sore, but I find that I have serious trouble physically peddling. I am in great shape. I run marathons and wanted to transition to triathlons but I am afraid to take time away from a sport I'm good at to potentially waste time and money on a sport I'm terrible at.
And when I say slow I mean legitimately slow. Like 10mph is pushing it most days for me. When I was biking more frequently 12mph was the best avg I could manage. The other day going up a hill I realized when looking at my speed that I could have run faster haha.
Looking for any advice about why I am so slow or strength training to get stronger or any success stories about people getting better at cycling.
(I am 23 y.o. and run a 3:45 marathon, aiming to qualify for Boston within the year)
And when I say slow I mean legitimately slow. Like 10mph is pushing it most days for me. When I was biking more frequently 12mph was the best avg I could manage. The other day going up a hill I realized when looking at my speed that I could have run faster haha.
Looking for any advice about why I am so slow or strength training to get stronger or any success stories about people getting better at cycling.
(I am 23 y.o. and run a 3:45 marathon, aiming to qualify for Boston within the year)
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Replies
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Something is wrong if you are capable of a solid marathon but "can't" ride more than 12mph. What gearing are you using? Do you have idea of what your cadence is? What kind of bike do you have?3
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Can you describe exactly what kind of trouble you're having pedaling? Is it too hard? Too easy? Are you in pain? Etc?
What kind of terrain are you riding in? Roads, trails, etc? How hilly? How windy? What kind of bike do you have?
How often do you use your shifters?
Most people seem to agree that running doesn't do a lot for cycling, but that cycling is great for runners. I wouldn't worry too much in your shoes.2 -
Describe the "serious trouble peddling".
What's stopping you? Your legs? Your lungs?
With your fitness level would expect it to be your technique not your CV capability that's the problem.
Wrong cadence would be my guess on the limited information available - or flat tyres!
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I have been in the fastest gear(easiest gear) because in any higher gear (except when going downhill) it's too hard to pedal. The problem is my legs. I feel like I'm using a stairclimber on high resistance or something. I've done spin class frequently lately and I do okay there. It has helped me realize I need to increase my cadence so that's why I try to keep it on a fast gear so I can spin my legs faster. Though I still feel like my legs are moving too slowly.
I'm riding in a road bike on local paved greenways. My tires a pumped to an appropriate pressure.0 -
First off average speed means nothing. What sort of gearing are your using , ideally you want to be able to spin around 90. So your legs don't tire too much. You can increase speed by making sure your clothes don't flap about , also if your core allows try to get low as comfortable, elbows tucked in. A lot of cycle clubs have social group rides to join. Don't worry too much about the speed it will come like anything it will come. There is saying it never gets easier you only get faster.0
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I'm no expert, but it sounds like there might be something wrong with your bike. Have you had it checked/turned up recently?0
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JuliaHujar wrote: »I have been in the fastest gear(easiest gear) because in any higher gear (except when going downhill) it's too hard to pedal.
So the chain is as far LEFT as it can go? It's on the smallest ring in front and the biggest cog in back?1 -
Also I guess you know about training zones to help increase your muscle endurance do some strength session at around 80 in your zone 3 for 15 mins then 5 mins zone 1 recovery then repeat zone 3 at 80. Also do sessions in zone 2 for 45 mins to start with at 900
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ajwcyclist2016 wrote: »First off average speed means nothing. What sort of gearing are your using , ideally you want to be able to spin around 90. So your legs don't tire too much. You can increase speed by making sure your clothes don't flap about , also if your core allows try to get low as comfortable, elbows tucked in. A lot of cycle clubs have social group rides to join. Don't worry too much about the speed it will come like anything it will come. There is saying it never gets easier you only get faster.
I ride in a lower gear to try to spin faster but I don't have a cadence monitor yet. I wear cycling clothing so that's not a huge issue.
I've been to a few social group rides and I tend to be able to go faster with companions, but I don't like being in the slower section of riders.0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »I have been in the fastest gear(easiest gear) because in any higher gear (except when going downhill) it's too hard to pedal.
So the chain is as far LEFT as it can go? It's on the smallest ring in front and the biggest cog in back?
Yeah it's in the lowest possible gear0 -
ajwcyclist2016 wrote: »Also I guess you know about training zones to help increase your muscle endurance do some strength session at around 80 in your zone 3 for 15 mins then 5 mins zone 1 recovery then repeat zone 3 at 80. Also do sessions in zone 2 for 45 mins to start with at 90
Yeah that kind of thing is easier on a spin class bike but hard for me to do outdoors. I also just got an indoor trainer to put my bike on, so I should be able to do stuff like that on my bike indoors.1 -
53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.0 -
Sounds to me like you need saddle time. Put in the miles and the speed will come. Cycling is very quad oriented, running really isn't so squats and anything you can do to build up the quads is going to help. I know you like to run but cycling is a great cross training exercise and will help if done correctly. Saddle time...1
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Fastest meaning smallest ring in the front, biggest in the back right? Appropriate as in 100 psi +/- 10psi (assuming 700c x 23)
IMHO it's really hard to go that slow on a road bike. I'm thinking something is mechanically wrong. I'd inspect the brakes and alignment of the wheels. When you lift up the back of the bike and spin the wheel, it shouldn't wobble at all.
Also, when you have the rear wheel lifted, you should be able to shift through all the gears and pedal by hand with no problems (because the only resistance at that point is drivetrain loss and a little bit of air resistance due to the spokes)1 -
shagerty777 wrote: »Sounds to me like you need saddle time. Put in the miles and the speed will come. Cycling is very quad oriented, running really isn't so squats and anything you can do to build up the quads is going to help. I know you like to run but cycling is a great cross training exercise and will help if done correctly. Saddle time...
Yeah that's what I was figuring. It's just really hard finding motivation when I'm so bad. Running came really naturally to me so I'm not used to being so bad at something athletic.0 -
JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.
Ok we just found your problem. Your wheel is out of true. It wobbles a little when you pick the bike up and spin the wheel, unweighted. But when you sit on it (it's a road bike so about 70 % of your weight is on the rear wheel) it rubs the brake. This is where the resistance is coming from.
If it's a carbon frame, try to confirm the tire only rubbing the brake and not the chainstay.0 -
scorpio516 wrote: »Fastest meaning smallest ring in the front, biggest in the back right? Appropriate as in 100 psi +/- 10psi (assuming 700c x 23)
IMHO it's really hard to go that slow on a road bike. I'm thinking something is mechanically wrong. I'd inspect the brakes and alignment of the wheels. When you lift up the back of the bike and spin the wheel, it shouldn't wobble at all.
Also, when you have the rear wheel lifted, you should be able to shift through all the gears and pedal by hand with no problems (because the only resistance at that point is drivetrain loss and a little bit of air resistance due to the spokes)
Yeah the rear wheel has a slight amount of wobble but the brakes have been adjusted so that they aren't hitting the wheel. I know my speed is ridiculously slow compared to people in my run club who XT with cycling. I feel like I should definitely be able to go faster!0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.
Ok we just found your problem. Your wheel is out of true. It wobbles a little when you pick the bike up and spin the wheel, unweighted. But when you sit on it (it's a road bike so about 70 % of your weight is on the rear wheel) it rubs the brake. This is where the resistance is coming from.
If it's a carbon frame, try to confirm the tire only rubbing the brake and not the chainstay.
Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.0 -
JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.
53 is the number of teeth on the front chainring
25 is the number of teeth on the rear cassette cog.
On the front chain ring, it might have the number of teeth printed - 53 is a pretty big ring - a standard crankset usually has a 53 tooth and a 39 tooth chain ring. A compact crankset is usually about 50 teeth and 34 teeth.
On the big chainring, 1 revolution moves the chain 53 links.
On the rear cassette, there are lots of options. Basic bikes might have a 12-28 tooth rear cassette. The smallest ring has 12 teeth, the biggest has 28 teeth.
Lets say you had a 50t front ring and a 10t rear cog. For every one revolution of the crank, the rear wheel would turn 5 times.
Or if you had a 28 tooth front ring and a 20 tooth rear cog, for every crank revolution, the rear wheel would turn once.0 -
Could the speedometer be wrong?
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JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?
Yes they have a quick release lever on them (front and back).
I'll try that when I ride next.
I bought the bike new in Oct '15 and rode it about 20 miles a week in the fall then didn't ride it for a long while until summer '16. I'm just now trying to get into riding more regularly.0 -
Change gears! LOL1
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NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?
I dont understand why the "mechanic" didn't just true the wheel. Still a wheel slightlyt out of true is really not even noticeable.1 -
cycling uses a different muscle set than the exercises/sports you are good at. I could do a 100 mile ride and average 16mph and not even be incredibly tired but I couldn't even run around my block. If you want to get fast just practice, practice and set goals and challenges for yourself. It takes me about 2 months of riding 6 days a week to get in decent shape. It's worth the work though, keep at it!1
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Maybe I'm way off base here but do you do any type of weight training? If not, then I enough you to try it. It might help.
Also, do you have the appropriate type of tires on your bike?
And for what it's worth, I went to many spin classes but always felt that riding outside was more challenging. And I was never fast on the bike trails either. I was once passed by a retired gentleman riding with a walking cast on his leg! True story! And I'm pretty sure he was in better shape than me!
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I didn't see what kind of bike you have. That can make a huge difference. If you're riding a boat anchor and your cycling mates are all on carbon road bikes, you can't expect to keep up.
Also, some people are just slower. That's okay.0 -
Most people commenting are far smarter on this stuff than me but a couple of thoughts:
1) When you were fit, did they set you up on a trainer and WATCH you ride? A really good, professional, performance fitting would have done this. If not, find a shop that offers this. You may have to pay, but it sounds like it may be worth it.
2) Sounds like you have friends who cycle. Go out with them and have them watch you, especially if they are experienced. I am FAR from an expert, but have gained enough decent knowledge over the years that I've been able to help friends tweak a few things (both in their form and mechanically on their bikes) by riding behind or beside them. I've also had friends help me.
3) Think about making circles with your feet when pedaling instead of stepping down. I find that when I'm tired, I often feel like I'm kinda stomping down on my pedals. When I focus on making circles, it becomes a bit easier.
4) I can't believe the mechanic didn't true your wheel!!! Lord, the guy I used to date who was just an amateur mechanic and even HE knew to true my wheel when he gave my bike a tune up!0
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