Cycling problems
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JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.
53 is the number of teeth on the front chainring
25 is the number of teeth on the rear cassette cog.
On the front chain ring, it might have the number of teeth printed - 53 is a pretty big ring - a standard crankset usually has a 53 tooth and a 39 tooth chain ring. A compact crankset is usually about 50 teeth and 34 teeth.
On the big chainring, 1 revolution moves the chain 53 links.
On the rear cassette, there are lots of options. Basic bikes might have a 12-28 tooth rear cassette. The smallest ring has 12 teeth, the biggest has 28 teeth.
Lets say you had a 50t front ring and a 10t rear cog. For every one revolution of the crank, the rear wheel would turn 5 times.
Or if you had a 28 tooth front ring and a 20 tooth rear cog, for every crank revolution, the rear wheel would turn once.0 -
Could the speedometer be wrong?
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JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?0 -
NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?
Yes they have a quick release lever on them (front and back).
I'll try that when I ride next.
I bought the bike new in Oct '15 and rode it about 20 miles a week in the fall then didn't ride it for a long while until summer '16. I'm just now trying to get into riding more regularly.0 -
Change gears! LOL1
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NorthCascades wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »Okay I'm thinking I need to take it to another bike shop and have them look at the brakes and the wobbly wheel.
All wheels flex when they're weighted, but most don't flex enough to notice. If your mech had to open your brakes to make room for the wobble without you on the bike, the wheel is only going to get wider with you on it.
Chances are your brakes use a quick release mechanism. You can confirm my theory by undoing your rear brake temporarily. Almost all of your stopping power comes from the front brake so it's not a big safety issue as long as you're aware of it. Unhook the brake, ride a block, see if the problem is solved.
If so, I'd have the wheel rebuilt or replaced. What's its history?
I dont understand why the "mechanic" didn't just true the wheel. Still a wheel slightlyt out of true is really not even noticeable.1 -
cycling uses a different muscle set than the exercises/sports you are good at. I could do a 100 mile ride and average 16mph and not even be incredibly tired but I couldn't even run around my block. If you want to get fast just practice, practice and set goals and challenges for yourself. It takes me about 2 months of riding 6 days a week to get in decent shape. It's worth the work though, keep at it!1
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Maybe I'm way off base here but do you do any type of weight training? If not, then I enough you to try it. It might help.
Also, do you have the appropriate type of tires on your bike?
And for what it's worth, I went to many spin classes but always felt that riding outside was more challenging. And I was never fast on the bike trails either. I was once passed by a retired gentleman riding with a walking cast on his leg! True story! And I'm pretty sure he was in better shape than me!
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I didn't see what kind of bike you have. That can make a huge difference. If you're riding a boat anchor and your cycling mates are all on carbon road bikes, you can't expect to keep up.
Also, some people are just slower. That's okay.0 -
Most people commenting are far smarter on this stuff than me but a couple of thoughts:
1) When you were fit, did they set you up on a trainer and WATCH you ride? A really good, professional, performance fitting would have done this. If not, find a shop that offers this. You may have to pay, but it sounds like it may be worth it.
2) Sounds like you have friends who cycle. Go out with them and have them watch you, especially if they are experienced. I am FAR from an expert, but have gained enough decent knowledge over the years that I've been able to help friends tweak a few things (both in their form and mechanically on their bikes) by riding behind or beside them. I've also had friends help me.
3) Think about making circles with your feet when pedaling instead of stepping down. I find that when I'm tired, I often feel like I'm kinda stomping down on my pedals. When I focus on making circles, it becomes a bit easier.
4) I can't believe the mechanic didn't true your wheel!!! Lord, the guy I used to date who was just an amateur mechanic and even HE knew to true my wheel when he gave my bike a tune up!0 -
JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
Count the teeth on your gears.
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shagerty777 wrote: »Sounds to me like you need saddle time. Put in the miles and the speed will come. Cycling is very quad oriented, running really isn't so squats and anything you can do to build up the quads is going to help. I know you like to run but cycling is a great cross training exercise and will help if done correctly. Saddle time...
I agree with saddle time, but cycling, especially fast cycling comes from the hamstrings. Although as a runner yours should be well developed. But I know I cycle much faster when my hamstrings are engaged.0 -
I have just a plain ol one speed,see avatar, and find its almost physically impossible to pedal faster then 10 MPH. Since there's no gears to up resistance and my terrain lacks hills I can actually spin so fast that I run out of resistance and I have to coast to slow down to get full contact with my pedals back.0
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scorpio516 wrote: »JuliaHujar wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »53x25?
On the face of it, it sounds like you'd benefit from changing your gearing. But something doesn't add up and I wouldn't spend the money yet.
If you pick the bike up in one hand and spin the (rear) wheel with the other, how easily does it turn? How long will it keep turning once you spin it up?
Not sure what you mean by those numbers?
It spins without a problem. The guy who did my bike tune up said the rear wheel had a bit of a wobble but not too bad. He adjusted the brakes so they wouldn't hit the tire while it spun.
53 is the number of teeth on the front chainring
25 is the number of teeth on the rear cassette cog.
On the front chain ring, it might have the number of teeth printed - 53 is a pretty big ring - a standard crankset usually has a 53 tooth and a 39 tooth chain ring. A compact crankset is usually about 50 teeth and 34 teeth.
On the big chainring, 1 revolution moves the chain 53 links.
On the rear cassette, there are lots of options. Basic bikes might have a 12-28 tooth rear cassette. The smallest ring has 12 teeth, the biggest has 28 teeth.
Lets say you had a 50t front ring and a 10t rear cog. For every one revolution of the crank, the rear wheel would turn 5 times.
Or if you had a 28 tooth front ring and a 20 tooth rear cog, for every crank revolution, the rear wheel would turn once.
My bike says 50/34 on the gears0 -
denversillygoose wrote: »I didn't see what kind of bike you have. That can make a huge difference. If you're riding a boat anchor and your cycling mates are all on carbon road bikes, you can't expect to keep up.
Also, some people are just slower. That's okay.
I have a road bike. Not too of the line or anything but it was purchased at a cycling store and wasn't cheap. It's a diamondback women's road bike.
I do not want to be slow if I'm trying hard though! I feel like with my fitness level I should be passable.0 -
AmandaDanceMore wrote: »Most people commenting are far smarter on this stuff than me but a couple of thoughts:
1) When you were fit, did they set you up on a trainer and WATCH you ride? A really good, professional, performance fitting would have done this. If not, find a shop that offers this. You may have to pay, but it sounds like it may be worth it.
2) Sounds like you have friends who cycle. Go out with them and have them watch you, especially if they are experienced. I am FAR from an expert, but have gained enough decent knowledge over the years that I've been able to help friends tweak a few things (both in their form and mechanically on their bikes) by riding behind or beside them. I've also had friends help me.
3) Think about making circles with your feet when pedaling instead of stepping down. I find that when I'm tired, I often feel like I'm kinda stomping down on my pedals. When I focus on making circles, it becomes a bit easier.
4) I can't believe the mechanic didn't true your wheel!!! Lord, the guy I used to date who was just an amateur mechanic and even HE knew to true my wheel when he gave my bike a tune up!
The guy who fixed my bike set me up on a trainer. He is a guy in my run club who is a very experienced cyclist and has taken classes on fixing bike stuff. Not sure why he didn't true it, I guess he figured it wasn't so bad. When I bought the bike a year and a half ago they didn't fit me properly so my friend was helping me get everything adjusted properly (seat height, stem length, handlebar height, seat placement) so that I can at least not be in pain when riding (in my neck and shoulders). I have other friends who cycle so I will try to get up with them to have them watch me ride and see what I can get as far as advice.0 -
JuliaHujar wrote: »AmandaDanceMore wrote: »Most people commenting are far smarter on this stuff than me but a couple of thoughts:
1) When you were fit, did they set you up on a trainer and WATCH you ride? A really good, professional, performance fitting would have done this. If not, find a shop that offers this. You may have to pay, but it sounds like it may be worth it.
2) Sounds like you have friends who cycle. Go out with them and have them watch you, especially if they are experienced. I am FAR from an expert, but have gained enough decent knowledge over the years that I've been able to help friends tweak a few things (both in their form and mechanically on their bikes) by riding behind or beside them. I've also had friends help me.
3) Think about making circles with your feet when pedaling instead of stepping down. I find that when I'm tired, I often feel like I'm kinda stomping down on my pedals. When I focus on making circles, it becomes a bit easier.
4) I can't believe the mechanic didn't true your wheel!!! Lord, the guy I used to date who was just an amateur mechanic and even HE knew to true my wheel when he gave my bike a tune up!
The guy who fixed my bike set me up on a trainer. He is a guy in my run club who is a very experienced cyclist and has taken classes on fixing bike stuff. Not sure why he didn't true it, I guess he figured it wasn't so bad. When I bought the bike a year and a half ago they didn't fit me properly so my friend was helping me get everything adjusted properly (seat height, stem length, handlebar height, seat placement) so that I can at least not be in pain when riding (in my neck and shoulders). I have other friends who cycle so I will try to get up with them to have them watch me ride and see what I can get as far as advice.
I chose my style bike because it forces an upright riding position. Very little pressure on neck and shoulders and the pedals are "foot forward" to sit upright. I have old whiplash pain and shoulder bursitis from a car accident so I don't want to put constant weight on my arms. The brand bike is a Sun Drifter, they also make a 3 and 7 speed, I may upgrade someday but for now 12 miles in an hour and ten gives me sufficient cardio. My fiance has a 7 speed and can easily out distance me due to having gears.
I believe Trek makes a similar style.0 -
You also tire yourself much much faster. In movement, the hamstrings "primary" function is NOT knee flexion. In walking or running, for example, the primary function of the hamstring is to decelerate the lower leg in the saggital plane. In cycling, brakes does a much better job at deceleration (unless you are on a track bike ;-) ) and hams does what it does best, stabilize. (See "On the biomechanics of cycling. A study of joint and muscle load during exercise on the bicycle ergometer." https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3468609). In another word, you push the pedals to move. Pulling up is one of those cycling myth or half truth; pedaling in cycles does not mean pulling up but progressive transmission of downward force through the power phase (~11 o'clock to 5) with opposite leg providing stabilization (in fact force is exerted against the opposing foot on the power phase). Sprinting (maximal effort, particularly standing) and preventing from falling over on a steep climb (where forward momentum is near zero) is about the only time pulling up is actively used (and maybe a brief respite for tired legs). Otherwise it's mainly a waste of time/energy ("spin" workout techniques does not necessary translate to real world).lmjohnson110 wrote: »I agree with saddle time, but cycling, especially fast cycling comes from the hamstrings. Although as a runner yours should be well developed. But I know I cycle much faster when my hamstrings are engaged.
OP, what is the terrain? Wind? 10 mph on a 6% slope is pretty good. Is your friend an experience fitter, mechanic, rider, or all three? If the answer is no or don't know, consider getting fit from a professional. Fit is as much an art as science, and most of us carry enough baggage not to see the forest for the tree. My fit is directly related to my needs and comfort but not yours and most of us have the same lens (especially true regarding the opposite sex; we are just build different). Same goes for equipment care. I let a lot of things go on my bike until I find time but would have been fired when I worked in a bicycle shop (during college for access to steep discounts supporting my racing bent). Nothing on the bike is necessary complicated but you need to have the right tools (and maybe he didn't have it handy and hence the quick fix).2 -
Speed is not important what is, is time in saddle and speed will come. Get a decent Base behind you. In the spring time if thier is local chain gangs maybe go along and learn to work in a group. Don't worry if get dropped and if can keep up then well done the following week move up to a faster group. Just keep at it.0
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I also think you just need saddle time. If you're light (and it looks like you are) then you might not have a lot of power but should have a very decent power to weight ratio, so should be reasonably quick.0
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