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Cycling problems

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Replies

  • Posts: 25,911 Member
    JuliaHujar wrote: »

    Not sure what you mean by those numbers?

    Count the teeth on your gears.

  • Posts: 366 Member
    Sounds to me like you need saddle time. Put in the miles and the speed will come. Cycling is very quad oriented, running really isn't so squats and anything you can do to build up the quads is going to help. I know you like to run but cycling is a great cross training exercise and will help if done correctly. Saddle time...

    I agree with saddle time, but cycling, especially fast cycling comes from the hamstrings. Although as a runner yours should be well developed. But I know I cycle much faster when my hamstrings are engaged.
  • Posts: 996 Member
    I have just a plain ol one speed,see avatar, and find its almost physically impossible to pedal faster then 10 MPH. Since there's no gears to up resistance and my terrain lacks hills I can actually spin so fast that I run out of resistance and I have to coast to slow down to get full contact with my pedals back.
  • Posts: 39 Member
    scorpio516 wrote: »

    53 is the number of teeth on the front chainring
    25 is the number of teeth on the rear cassette cog.

    On the front chain ring, it might have the number of teeth printed - 53 is a pretty big ring - a standard crankset usually has a 53 tooth and a 39 tooth chain ring. A compact crankset is usually about 50 teeth and 34 teeth.
    On the big chainring, 1 revolution moves the chain 53 links.

    On the rear cassette, there are lots of options. Basic bikes might have a 12-28 tooth rear cassette. The smallest ring has 12 teeth, the biggest has 28 teeth.

    Lets say you had a 50t front ring and a 10t rear cog. For every one revolution of the crank, the rear wheel would turn 5 times.
    Or if you had a 28 tooth front ring and a 20 tooth rear cog, for every crank revolution, the rear wheel would turn once.

    My bike says 50/34 on the gears
  • Posts: 39 Member
    I didn't see what kind of bike you have. That can make a huge difference. If you're riding a boat anchor and your cycling mates are all on carbon road bikes, you can't expect to keep up.

    Also, some people are just slower. That's okay.

    I have a road bike. Not too of the line or anything but it was purchased at a cycling store and wasn't cheap. It's a diamondback women's road bike.
    I do not want to be slow if I'm trying hard though! I feel like with my fitness level I should be passable.
  • Posts: 39 Member
    Most people commenting are far smarter on this stuff than me but a couple of thoughts:

    1) When you were fit, did they set you up on a trainer and WATCH you ride? A really good, professional, performance fitting would have done this. If not, find a shop that offers this. You may have to pay, but it sounds like it may be worth it.
    2) Sounds like you have friends who cycle. Go out with them and have them watch you, especially if they are experienced. I am FAR from an expert, but have gained enough decent knowledge over the years that I've been able to help friends tweak a few things (both in their form and mechanically on their bikes) by riding behind or beside them. I've also had friends help me.
    3) Think about making circles with your feet when pedaling instead of stepping down. I find that when I'm tired, I often feel like I'm kinda stomping down on my pedals. When I focus on making circles, it becomes a bit easier.
    4) I can't believe the mechanic didn't true your wheel!!! Lord, the guy I used to date who was just an amateur mechanic and even HE knew to true my wheel when he gave my bike a tune up!

    The guy who fixed my bike set me up on a trainer. He is a guy in my run club who is a very experienced cyclist and has taken classes on fixing bike stuff. Not sure why he didn't true it, I guess he figured it wasn't so bad. When I bought the bike a year and a half ago they didn't fit me properly so my friend was helping me get everything adjusted properly (seat height, stem length, handlebar height, seat placement) so that I can at least not be in pain when riding (in my neck and shoulders). I have other friends who cycle so I will try to get up with them to have them watch me ride and see what I can get as far as advice.
  • Posts: 996 Member
    JuliaHujar wrote: »

    The guy who fixed my bike set me up on a trainer. He is a guy in my run club who is a very experienced cyclist and has taken classes on fixing bike stuff. Not sure why he didn't true it, I guess he figured it wasn't so bad. When I bought the bike a year and a half ago they didn't fit me properly so my friend was helping me get everything adjusted properly (seat height, stem length, handlebar height, seat placement) so that I can at least not be in pain when riding (in my neck and shoulders). I have other friends who cycle so I will try to get up with them to have them watch me ride and see what I can get as far as advice.

    I chose my style bike because it forces an upright riding position. Very little pressure on neck and shoulders and the pedals are "foot forward" to sit upright. I have old whiplash pain and shoulder bursitis from a car accident so I don't want to put constant weight on my arms. The brand bike is a Sun Drifter, they also make a 3 and 7 speed, I may upgrade someday but for now 12 miles in an hour and ten gives me sufficient cardio. My fiance has a 7 speed and can easily out distance me due to having gears.

    I believe Trek makes a similar style.
  • Posts: 709 Member
    I agree with saddle time, but cycling, especially fast cycling comes from the hamstrings. Although as a runner yours should be well developed. But I know I cycle much faster when my hamstrings are engaged.
    You also tire yourself much much faster. In movement, the hamstrings "primary" function is NOT knee flexion. In walking or running, for example, the primary function of the hamstring is to decelerate the lower leg in the saggital plane. In cycling, brakes does a much better job at deceleration (unless you are on a track bike ;-) ) and hams does what it does best, stabilize. (See "On the biomechanics of cycling. A study of joint and muscle load during exercise on the bicycle ergometer." https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/3468609). In another word, you push the pedals to move. Pulling up is one of those cycling myth or half truth; pedaling in cycles does not mean pulling up but progressive transmission of downward force through the power phase (~11 o'clock to 5) with opposite leg providing stabilization (in fact force is exerted against the opposing foot on the power phase). Sprinting (maximal effort, particularly standing) and preventing from falling over on a steep climb (where forward momentum is near zero) is about the only time pulling up is actively used (and maybe a brief respite for tired legs). Otherwise it's mainly a waste of time/energy ("spin" workout techniques does not necessary translate to real world).

    OP, what is the terrain? Wind? 10 mph on a 6% slope is pretty good. Is your friend an experience fitter, mechanic, rider, or all three? If the answer is no or don't know, consider getting fit from a professional. Fit is as much an art as science, and most of us carry enough baggage not to see the forest for the tree. My fit is directly related to my needs and comfort but not yours and most of us have the same lens (especially true regarding the opposite sex; we are just build different). Same goes for equipment care. I let a lot of things go on my bike until I find time but would have been fired when I worked in a bicycle shop (during college for access to steep discounts supporting my racing bent). Nothing on the bike is necessary complicated but you need to have the right tools (and maybe he didn't have it handy and hence the quick fix).
  • Posts: 161 Member
    Speed is not important what is, is time in saddle and speed will come. Get a decent Base behind you. In the spring time if thier is local chain gangs maybe go along and learn to work in a group. Don't worry if get dropped and if can keep up then well done the following week move up to a faster group. Just keep at it.
  • Posts: 339 Member
    I also think you just need saddle time. If you're light (and it looks like you are) then you might not have a lot of power but should have a very decent power to weight ratio, so should be reasonably quick.
  • Posts: 25,911 Member
    I agree with the others ... just keep riding.

    Pick one or two days a week for long rides.
    Pick one or two days a week when you'll do intervals or hill repeats.
    Pick one day for a recovery ride.

    And how fast do you want to be?
    10 mph = 16 km/h and 12 mph = 20 km/h ... that's not bad!
  • Posts: 39 Member
    edited January 2017
    kcjchang wrote: »


    I honestly don't know the exact incline. My most recent ride had a 301 ft elevation gain in 7.5 miles.
    My friend is an experienced rider (multiple iron Man completions) and a semi experienced mechanic/fitter.
  • Posts: 39 Member
    Machka9 wrote: »
    I agree with the others ... just keep riding.

    Pick one or two days a week for long rides.
    Pick one or two days a week when you'll do intervals or hill repeats.
    Pick one day for a recovery ride.

    And how fast do you want to be?
    10 mph = 16 km/h and 12 mph = 20 km/h ... that's not bad!

    Thats similar to my current running schedule. However, if I decide to transition to triathlons I will be running 2-3 days a week, biking 2 days and swimming 2 days. Which rides would be the most important?
    Ideally I'd like to be averaging 14mph for 20 or so miles
  • Posts: 25,911 Member
    JuliaHujar wrote: »

    Thats similar to my current running schedule. However, if I decide to transition to triathlons I will be running 2-3 days a week, biking 2 days and swimming 2 days. Which rides would be the most important?
    Ideally I'd like to be averaging 14mph for 20 or so miles

    One long ride + one day of intervals (or hill repeats sometimes if your routes will be hilly).

    You might also look to see if you've got a cycling club in your area who run time trials. Doing time trials every other week or so (instead of your intervals) might help too, and would give you an idea of how you're improving.
  • Posts: 10,968 Member
    Did you find the answer?
  • Posts: 5,600 Member
    JuliaHujar wrote: »

    semi-experienced mechanic/fitter? is he a qualified fitter (via retul/guru or one of the other fitting schools processes)
  • Posts: 10,179 Member
    Are different muscle groups used in running and cycling?
  • Posts: 14 Member
    Try intervals. I know when my speed/fitness on the bike plateaus, intervals can help kick both in the butt. Always riding at the same speed is not a good plan for getting faster, which is what I read as your motivation.
  • Posts: 709 Member
    Are you on a Time Trial (or Triathalon) bike? If so, you just need saddle time and get used to the extreme positioning. Try a less aggressive fit (keep a measurement of the settings before adjustment) and work on your technique (balance, bike handling, power delivery, core strength, flexibility, etc). Slowly back into the more aggressive aerodynamic tuck as your body become more accommodated to the strain. If not, just ride to get your cycling legs. I would still work on technique and building a solid base (e.g. comfortable cruising 18-20mph solo on a flat course over two plus hours) before introducing more intensive interval training (i.e. anything over tempo).
    Are different muscle groups used in running and cycling?
    No but the mechanics and use are different. See http://www.livestrong.com/article/374003-muscles-used-in-running-vs-cycling/ for a general description.
  • Posts: 1,866 Member
    JuliaHujar wrote: »
    I suck at cycling. I don't know what my problem is. I have gotten my bike professionally fitted now so it isn't making my shoulders/neck sore, but I find that I have serious trouble physically peddling. I am in great shape. I run marathons and wanted to transition to triathlons but I am afraid to take time away from a sport I'm good at to potentially waste time and money on a sport I'm terrible at.
    And when I say slow I mean legitimately slow. Like 10mph is pushing it most days for me. When I was biking more frequently 12mph was the best avg I could manage. The other day going up a hill I realized when looking at my speed that I could have run faster haha.
    Looking for any advice about why I am so slow or strength training to get stronger or any success stories about people getting better at cycling.
    (I am 23 y.o. and run a 3:45 marathon, aiming to qualify for Boston within the year)

    Just like running, you've got to suck it up and work your Zones! No pain. No gain.

    Rather than heart rate, watts, etc..., it narrows down to this...

    1. Old lady pace
    2. Chatty pace
    3. Feel good hard
    4. Feel bad hard
    5. I am going to die
    6. Flat out

    I seriously doubt that riding 10 mph outside is getting you out of Old lady pace or Chatty pace. Shift those gears, and mash some pedals to work the numbers 3, 4, 5 - and even some 10 second durations in 6.

    If you do a tri, the majority of the ride will be in Zone 3 and 4 (most likely) with some time spent in Zone 2 as well. To ride that fast, and that far in those Zones - you've got to train it.

    So go out there, pedal hard and "feel good hard"; "feel bad hard"; push it so you feel the "I am going to die" pace for some 1 - 3 minute intervals as well. It might take you a good 4-6 weeks to build up some decent base stamina on the bike, but that's what saddle time is designed to do as long as you are not riding in "old lady pace" and "chatty pace".

    Push it!

  • Posts: 39 Member
    Did you find the answer?

    I had my friend loosen the brakes bc it seemed like they were rubbing when I was riding. I haven't had a chance to get back outside bc of lots of rain and cold here, but if this weekend clears up I'll be out on Sunday! Otherwise I'll be inside on my trainer which always feels easier than outside.

    Also he said he didn't have the tools to true the rear wheel that's slightly wobbly.
  • Posts: 39 Member

    Just like running, you've got to suck it up and work your Zones! No pain. No gain.

    Rather than heart rate, watts, etc..., it narrows down to this...

    1. Old lady pace
    2. Chatty pace
    3. Feel good hard
    4. Feel bad hard
    5. I am going to die
    6. Flat out

    I seriously doubt that riding 10 mph outside is getting you out of Old lady pace or Chatty pace. Shift those gears, and mash some pedals to work the numbers 3, 4, 5 - and even some 10 second durations in 6.

    If you do a tri, the majority of the ride will be in Zone 3 and 4 (most likely) with some time spent in Zone 2 as well. To ride that fast, and that far in those Zones - you've got to train it.

    So go out there, pedal hard and "feel good hard"; "feel bad hard"; push it so you feel the "I am going to die" pace for some 1 - 3 minute intervals as well. It might take you a good 4-6 weeks to build up some decent base stamina on the bike, but that's what saddle time is designed to do as long as you are not riding in "old lady pace" and "chatty pace".

    Push it!

    I like the nicknames of those zones haha. Running is so much easier to push through though! When it's hard it's easier to distract myself or change up my form slightly to ease discomfort (or walk if really necessary).
    But the consensus seems to be that I need to just push harder. And find a cycle group to ride with.
    Thanks!
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