Bike buying tips?
lorrpb
Posts: 11,463 Member
I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
Thanks for any tips you can share!
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
Thanks for any tips you can share!
2
Replies
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ok, let's see here. A lot of it will be personal preference/trial and error. But I'll take a stab at your questions -
- The more upright you are, the easier it will be to handle the bike. The more bent over you are, and the more forward your weight is, the more twitchy the bike will feel. With a bit of practice, neither should be a problem.
- totally personal preference. Much like running shoes, every seat, and every butt is different. Padded shorts help a lot.
- It could. A well-fitted bike should help a lot, but no way to know for sure how big of a problem, if at all, it will be. A good fitter should be able to get you on the right bike to address those concerns.
- Clipless are pretty easy to pickup, so if you think you want to go that route, I would just bite the bullet and do it.
- Its not how many, it's having the right ones. I'd recommend a compact double crankset. The rear cassette should be fairly standard.
- you probably won't be comfortable immediately, especially if you go for a more agressive bike (road or tri vs hybrid, for example). And honestly, you just have to give yourself some time to get used to being in the riding position. Butt pain is normal, that usually goes away. Back fatigue is normal, back pain isn't. Arm/shoulder/neck varies person to person... fatigue you can usually get used to with time, pain is pain and should be addressed with your shop/fitter.
- Spend the money on things that make you comfortable (the right frame, the right saddle, the right stem and handlebars. Spend the money on the things that keep you safe (helmet, tires). Everything else is pretty much disposable and relatively cheap/easy to replace.
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Also, demo/test/borrow as many bikes as you can, with as many different frame materials as you can. Bikes can and will feel very different, and it doesn't take a pro racer to feel/notice those differences. It will help you get a sense of what you do and don't like. Demo bikes from the shop, ride friends bikes, ask around if you have a local bike/tri club... ride ride ride.6
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A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
Agree that they are easier, the more upright position does feel more natural. There's quite a range of hybrids and I went for fast road biased hybrids (they have skinny road only tyres). But really it depends on your ultimate goal. It might be a stepping stone as it proved for me.
I still prefer my hybrid(s) for short urban rides though but my road bikes come into their own on longer rides.
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
A good bike comes with a better saddle. Gym saddles can be purgatory. Until you try you won't know. Good quality padded shorts make a world of difference. I find even the same saddle on an indoor trainer far more uncomfortable than outdoors.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Quite possibly. My neck and back aren't in good condition. But you might also adjust (or just accept some discomfort as I do). It's a factor in favour of a hybrid but there's a cost in aerodynamic efficiency and you can also be locked in one position.
I went for road bikes with a relatively relaxed riding position (Specialized Roubaix) as I simply can't see where I'm going with a very bum up, head down, riding position.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Start with flat pedals but switch to clipless as soon as you feel comfortable. They aren't really that tricky but you will probably have at least one comedy moment (as I did!).
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
Depends on how extreme the hills are. Diffeernt cassettes have different gearing as well different numbers of gears. I helped a fellow 50 something pick his first bike and had a bit of a difference of opinion with the shop assistant - he couldn't empathise that the needs of a 50+ novice were different to his needs as a young semi pro racer! Having a low enough bottom gear for the hills you will tackle makes an enormous difference in terms of leg fatigue.
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
Even if you get a perfect fit you will need time in the saddle to acclimatise. Don't start changing things until you have.
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
There's always a model just slightly above your price range with features just a little more desirable. It's far more economic to buy a bike with the spec you want rather than upgrade.
For my friend his "must haves" were carbon frame, disc brakes, at least Shimano 105 gearset.
Thanks for any tips you can share!- Join Strava.
- Get a navigation device (I like my Garmin Edge but Wahoo has become very popular).
- Do some organised events in far flung places, the organisers will take you down roads and see scenery you would never have found yourself.
- Transporting your bike on or in your car helps explore new areas.
- Learn to fix a puncture before you get one.
- Wear a helmet and eye protection, gloves/mitts too.
- Personally I always mount a mirror on my bikes. I like to control my riding environment and you can't do that without knowing what's going on all around you.
- Remember to smile but not when riding through a swarm of midges.
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I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
Maybe. If it has truly been that long, you may want to make sure you enjoy cycling first. Road bike prices pretty much bottom out at $650 minimum (unless you have significant know-how and are mail ordering and will be assembling yourself) or really luck out on getting one used. A used hybrid is much easier & cheaper to come by (especially with all the un-fit people suddenly buying them to participate in slow rolls and then quickly trying to sell them when they decide that exercise isn't for them after all).
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
For a road bike seat, you will likely want either padded cycling shorts or some type of padded seat cover. (most people go with the former, but I find that the edges where they adhere down the shammy/padding bit tends to chafe - so I bought a cover which I really like: http://a.co/d/aIPo9HK )
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
If the spinning bike hurts, then I'm guessing the road bike probably will too.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Get the clipless. Both the old straps and the clipless will take a little getting used to. but not much. And definitely way, way more efficient..both when peddling and when re-starting from a traffic stop. I would never go with regular flat pedals on a road bike.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
This will vary a bit for your strength and how you cycle (some people prefer to stand and use force, I tend to go to the granny gear quicker and stay seated with as close to my usual cadence as I can when possible). You'll probably be going with whatever the default is on which road bike is most affordable, actually available to buy, and meets your other criteria. Some people insist on having a triple. Mine is not. Your weight will make a huge difference on hill climbs. I can blow past a lot of more powerful guys on the hill climbs because their weight is so much higher.
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
Thanks for any tips you can share!
You will also want a mirror: This is one of the best (by far): http://a.co/d/fAUElZ2
and Lights
and a repair kit (minimum of a spare tube, tire levers, inflator+CO2 canisters; also good to have a small mini tool (something like this: https://www.parktool.com/product/micro-fold-up-hex-key-set-aws-13 - it has just the few very common bits you'll commonly need for things like adjusting water cages, seat position, etc), and possibly a mini pump in case you run out of CO2, and probably a few wet wipes, and a saddle bag to store it in if you don't want to stuff everything in a jersey pocket.
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I have and love a hybrid for commuting, but IMO if you want to road bike or do tris, then you should just get a road bike. Hybrids are easier because you are more upright and most people are more accustomed to the position of the handlebars and gears, but no point in the intermediary step if you're going to be racing.
The important thing about a seat is that it fits you correctly. Some bike stores will measure the distance between your sit bones (usually by having you sit in a tray or sand or similar, nothing too touchy or anything) to get you a seat that will work for your anatomy and not cause you pain. I personally prefer a very minimal, unpadded seat that fits exactly right to one of those gel monstrosities.
I don't know if the position will hurt you, but a bike that's the right frame size is going to be a lot more comfortable than the standard ones at your gym. You look fairly petite and so I'm guessing you might need a shorter frame.
I don't ride a road bike much so I won't comment on the next couple of questions, but FWIW I rarely use more than three or four of my gears - one for flat, one for getting started at stoplights, one for small hills, and one for big hills. But again, not a road biker.
As far as "feel", the bike store person can help you with this by watching how the geometry of your body fits on the bike (angle of your torso and arms, your hips relative to the frame height, etc. All I can say is that the first time I got on a women's small frame instead of the unisex/men's medium type I'd always had before, I was blown away by how different it felt and it just instantly felt so much easier to ride a bike. I had no idea that I could be that comfortable since I'd always been on one that was too large before.
The only other thing I'd mention is that disc brakes are worth the upgrade in my opinion. I'm not a bike expert but they just feel safer to me, and need to be maintained less frequently.2 -
I could probably answer all of these questions but I don't think I'd be able to do justice to all of them so I'll pick and choose.
If you're wanting to use this new bike for sprint triathlons go with a road bike. I can't imagine you'd be terribly comfortable using a hybrid bike for a tri or. I don't think you need to get a tri bike (especially given you've presumably never done one, aren't sure that you 100% like it, and haven't been on a bike in 30 years), but an entry level road bike would suffice.
I would specifically talk to the person who is doing the fitting about your concerns in terms of your arthritis. You could also see about finding someone who does medical bike fits (which would be from someone who is experienced in fitting bikes for people with complex medical needs). I wouldn't be surprised if you'd be able to find a set up that would allow you to comfortably use drop bars (so not flat handlebars) but it might take more time than someone who isn't used to them and doesn't have arthritis in your back and neck. That said, I don't know the severity of your arthritis or your pain. Given your medical needs combined with you not having any idea of what you'll need (which is logical, that isn't a dig against you), I don't think it would be super wise to buy used at this point in the game. That isn't to say that you can't find a used bike that will be able to fit you well, but I don't know that it's worth trying.
In terms of toe cages (clips) vs clipless pedals, I vote for clipless pedals. I personally find cages beyond finky and didn't find the learning curve of clipless pedals that steep. I would suggest going with a system that allows you to clip in on both sides. Something like Shimano's two bolt SPDs or the Speedplay pedals. You could also just start out with flat pedals (which I would also opt for over toe cages).
Hills are subjective (what you might think of as hilly I might not) but I'd suggest a compact crankset or a triple (which are going out of style but I am a fan of given where I live). This is a very good question for the person/people you'll talk to at your local bike shop (LBS) as they'll know the terrarian better than we will.
Saddle stuff is very very very individual. I would suggest springing for padded bike shorts (so shorts with a chamois pad) and potentially chamois cream as well. Do not wear underwear with padded bike shorts. I personally like my Brooks B17 imperial but there are plenty of people who can't tolerate them. There are a ton of people who like the Selle Italia Diva Gel Flow but it isn't a good saddle for me for anything more than 20 or 30 miles which is why one of the first things I did when preparing for my century was to go about finding a saddle that was a better fit for me. If you can find a bike shop near you that allows you to try out different saddles do it. It's totally worth it.
I would also suggest perusing bikeforums.net as there is a wealth of information about all of this there.2 -
It sounds like you're planning to get for before you buy a bike, and to narrow your selection based on the fitter's advice. That's very wise. Doing that is the absolute best advice anyone can give.
I'd recommend renting bikes, of different styles, to get summer more recent experience before you buy. This will help you figure out what you like and what you hate, and guide your buying decision. A good shop will let you do an all day test ride.
I'd go right to clipless, but they won't give you more power, it's mostly about comfort and security. I think you would be better served with a road bike if triathlon is part of your reasoning.
Fabric makes excellent saddles. They have a gel one that you should try.2 -
Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!2 -
If you're willing to consider a used bike, that depreciate like cars, but are mechanically simpler and more reliable. You would want a friend who is comfort with bike mechanical stuff to shop with you.
If not, buy from a store you like, because you'll bring the bike in for maintenance regularly. You'll want to have the wheels re-tensioned after 200 miles. The cables will stretch a little because it's new. Eventually you'll wear the chain out.1 -
Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.0 -
awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
Seconted about the bike fit bit specifically.0 -
I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
Hybrids are easier on your back and neck if you are untrained. Short answer yes they are easier to handle, but nothing imo beats the feeling of drop bars.
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
You need time on the bike lots of it. There are saddles fit for different types of booties, but at the end of the day time on the saddle will be the biggest factor to comfort. Oh i also recommend padded shorts or bib.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Yes, but you can reduce stress on your neck and back with proper posture. Arms bent 90 degree angle to dampen the vibrations. Engage your core while cycling so you're not hyperextending your back and leaning on the bars too hard. Also gel filled gloves are nice too.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
I prefer clipless pedals. Like you mentioned "more power" also don't be too afraid to fall because everyone does it at least once.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
I climb category 2 hills with ease on a 11 speed.
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
This link might give you an idea.
https://www.bikeexchange.com/blog/aero-vs-endurance-vs-lightweight
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
Hmm i wish i paid attention to the weather can't even remember how many times i got monsooned on lmao.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
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I can't speak to the technicalities but if you tend to get carried away like I do. Maybe start with something on the cheap end of the scale and only buy the 'investment' bike once you know exactly what you want and how much you'll be using it.1
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awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
What do you mean by this?0 -
awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
What do you mean by this?
I've never really heard it differentiated like that, but what I assume they mean is...
Any bike shop can spend 20 minutes and get you reasonably fitted to a bike. This is sufficient for "most" people. Only some shops can/will fit your first, then take all those numbers/measurements and find the bike that is best suited to you. IME, it goes something like this...- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee recommends a few bikes.
- You ask a couple of questions, employee answers, you make a decision.
- Employee says you'd probably fit best on a medium or 55 or whatever size bike.
- You say ok.
- Employee adjusts bars and saddle.
- You buy the bike. The end.
- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee gets other employee who is trained/certified fitter.
- Fitter puts you on the fitting bike/machine.
- You spend some time (could be 20 minutes, could be an hour) spinning on the bike while the fitter makes small adjustments to things like seat height and position, bar height, stem length, stem angle, etc etc.
- After some time, you decide you're reasonably comfortable with the setup.
- Fitter takes the numbers/measurements and compares those to the bikes he sells. Figures out which bike(s) most closely match your numbers and makes a recommendation.
- You ask questions, fitter answers, you make a decision.
- You buy the bike.
- maybe the end, maybe not. Some shops/fitters will include a fit tweak after some initial time with the bike.
- You fall in love with cycling, take out a 3rd mortgage, buy all the bikes.
- The end.
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OP, here is an example of what a bike fit studio does.
http://www.bodyoverbike.com/
Included in the webpage is a link to a YouTube video that shows how the latest computerized bike fitting systems provide infinite adjustments that riders can test on the fly. The rider gives feedback to the fitter about comfort levels while in various riding positions, allowing the fitter to capture the optimal positional data for each rider. This then allows the fitter to set up the chosen bike to maximize each specific rider's comfort and efficiency.
Edited to add: The bike fit process I used was done completely independant of any bike purchase. In my case, I had the bike fit done and then we used the data to make adjustments to my existing road bike. Then, 8 months later, we used my "fit data" to select several good candidate triathlon bikes. The selection was based on both the fit geometry and my budget.
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awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
What do you mean by this?
I've never really heard it differentiated like that, but what I assume they mean is...
Any bike shop can spend 20 minutes and get you reasonably fitted to a bike. This is sufficient for "most" people. Only some shops can/will fit your first, then take all those numbers/measurements and find the bike that is best suited to you. IME, it goes something like this...- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee recommends a few bikes.
- You ask a couple of questions, employee answers, you make a decision.
- Employee says you'd probably fit best on a medium or 55 or whatever size bike.
- You say ok.
- Employee adjusts bars and saddle.
- You buy the bike. The end.
- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee gets other employee who is trained/certified fitter.
- Fitter puts you on the fitting bike/machine.
- You spend some time (could be 20 minutes, could be an hour) spinning on the bike while the fitter makes small adjustments to things like seat height and position, bar height, stem length, stem angle, etc etc.
- After some time, you decide you're reasonably comfortable with the setup.
- Fitter takes the numbers/measurements and compares those to the bikes he sells. Figures out which bike(s) most closely match your numbers and makes a recommendation.
- You ask questions, fitter answers, you make a decision.
- You buy the bike.
- maybe the end, maybe not. Some shops/fitters will include a fit tweak after some initial time with the bike.
- You fall in love with cycling, take out a 3rd mortgage, buy all the bikes.
- The end.
Hahaha! The voice of experience!!!1 -
Thank you for the feedback already. Great perspectives and a lot to think about. FWIW @peleroja I am far from petite at 5'7" and 160. Pics can be deceiving LOL, and I still appreciate your feedback very much.
Oops, I'm sorry for thinking you looked short, haha. Must just be the photo (or me projecting my problems onto others...)
I still say 5'7" is short enough that you might be more comfortable on something a little smaller than the "standard" (department store or stationary gym equipment, for example) unisex frame though.
Not to go off on a total tangent, but in my experience the world is pretty much designed for men between 5'10" and 6'0", with the single exception of airline seats, so there are a lot of things that will always be slightly too big for those of us who aren't. Stuff like office furniture (I love spending meetings unable to touch the floor and with the conference table so high I can't type without giving myself carpal tunnel...), kitchen appliances (I can't reach the back of my fridge or see into my over-the-range microwave), restaurant booths (where I have to perch at the edge of the seat and, again, have the table uncomfortably high) and gym equipment like stationary bikes (or any of those weight machines where I sit down and then can't reach any of the things I have to grab). I go to spin class once in a while and it is so uncomfortable on a bike where the handlebars only move up and down and not towards the seat, because I have to reach so far for the drop position. And I'm 5'4", which isn't even super short for a woman.0 -
awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
What do you mean by this?
In case they don't get back to you.
A professional bike fit would be something you would pay extra for. A good bike shop fit would get you a properly sized and style of bike, but they're selling you a bike, not fitting your bike to you at a professional fit level. Some shops also do professional fitting.
Read this, it goes into detail. With your existing injury concerns you might want to get fitted.
https://www-bicycling-com.cdn.ampproject.org/v/s/www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/amp20036352/bike-fit-0/?amp_js_v=a2&amp_gsa=1&usqp=mq331AQCCAE=#referrer=https://www.google.com&amp_tf=From %1$s&ampshare=https://www.bicycling.com/skills-tips/a20036352/bike-fit-0/0 -
I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
No. Get a drop bar road bike from the get go. Road bikes are only hard to handle at low speed, and it's really hard to go slow. Drop bars give you many options for hand placement. You can be low on the drops, upright on the top, between on the hoods.What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
If you have an expensive fitting, you'll have a good idea what saddle to get. Otherwise, start with the original saddle, unless your sit bones are really wide or really narrow for your height.
Get a nice set of chamois shorts. NEVER get a padded seat cover! That's a good way to cause permanent damage too your bits.Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
If your properly fit, no. And remember all those hand positions? All please different stress on your shoulders and back. With a strong core, you should feel no stress at all.Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Clipless.
Toe clips are archaic today, you can't find them very much anymore. Cheaper bikes come with platforms, but once you step up a level or two, there are no pedals.How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
There's a lot to this!
I live in all kinds on mountains. 2x7 with a compact suits me. I don't think I could do a 1x11. A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
The bigger thing is the quality of the shifters. Shimano Sora are what the bottom of the line bikes come with, and don't have very many options. Lots of people say don't go below 105. That's a 2x11 or 3x nowadays.Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
Depends 😉
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scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
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scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
There are only a couple of hills in my area that break 20%, but it's impossible to ride from my house and NOT break 10%. I ride a compact double and it's fine. I've ridden a triple and was fine. My mountain bikes are a 1x1 and a 1x10.
IMO, you adjust to what you have, so both can work.0 -
scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
There are only a couple of hills in my area that break 20%, but it's impossible to ride from my house and NOT break 10%. I ride a compact double and it's fine. I've ridden a triple and was fine. My mountain bikes are a 1x1 and a 1x10.
IMO, you adjust to what you have, so both can work.
Oh I'm sure at this point in the game I could get by with a compact and that's what I'm planning on doing when I buy a new bike this upcoming, winter. That said, I don't think a triple is as bad as people make it out to be. That's perhaps especially true if you have knee issues. That said, I know that I'm not strong enough to ride a 1x where I live and I'm ok with that.0 -
Can someone explain in simple terms what single, double, triple gears are?0
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It's the number of gear rings by the pedal arms, as opposed to a cassette, which is the gears in the back on the rear wheel. A single is 1 ring, a doubled is 2, and a triple is 3.0
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scorpio516 wrote: »I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
No. Get a drop bar road bike from the get go. Road bikes are only hard to handle at low speed, and it's really hard to go slow. Drop bars give you many options for hand placement. You can be low on the drops, upright on the top, between on the hoods.
Agreed.
And regarding pedals, I use these on almost all my bicycles:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-m324-clipless-spd-flat-mtb-pedals/rp-prod5937
That way I can clip in ... or not.
I grew up in a cycling family. House full of bicycles, cycling everywhere, Bicycling Mag, back when it was good, etc.
Then at about 17, I more or less stopped cycling.
I picked it up again at 23, dug out the only bicycle I had (a hand-me-down road bicycle from my father which was way too big for me), got some books from the library and read about training plans and bicycle fit. Spent an evening getting that bicycle set up as well as I could given the size of the bicycle, and set off on my first ride in a long time on April 29, 1990. I rode 1 mile, had to stop for a break, and then rode the mile home. But I determined then that I would get better at this!!
Unfortunately I had no money, so I stuck with a bicycle that was too big for me for years. Then finally in the late 1990s bought a used bicycle ... but in my enthusiasm for getting a smaller bicycle, I went too small. Fortunately after several months, acquaintances of mine bought it ... she was about 5' tall and it worked well for her. I took the money and bought a low-end Giant (OCR3) that was the right size ... and I've just gone from there.
So sometimes it does take some trial and error. I've been through several saddles before I settled on the type that work for me. And different pedals. And different shorts. And different handlebars. And different shoes. And all sorts of trial and error with my gearing .....
What I'm trying to say is that you may not get it perfectly right immediately ... but things can be changed.
And what cyclist doesn't want a basement/garage that looks like a bicycle shop?!?!
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Concur with Brian 100%. (Nice link too BTW.) In a small town, if it has a really good bike shop, they may have the time to fit you as part of the bike sale, but they may or may not have the best skills. In general, don't assume you'll get anything of value for nothing. Ask locals in your area who they trust and be willing to pay for a good fitting.0
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Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.2 -
My baby:
Most Triathlon serious competitors have much nicer bikes than mine but I love my bike and am happy to be completing sprint triathlons and maybe next year an olympic triathlon.
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