Bike buying tips?
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I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
No. Get a drop bar road bike from the get go. Road bikes are only hard to handle at low speed, and it's really hard to go slow. Drop bars give you many options for hand placement. You can be low on the drops, upright on the top, between on the hoods.What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
If you have an expensive fitting, you'll have a good idea what saddle to get. Otherwise, start with the original saddle, unless your sit bones are really wide or really narrow for your height.
Get a nice set of chamois shorts. NEVER get a padded seat cover! That's a good way to cause permanent damage too your bits.Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
If your properly fit, no. And remember all those hand positions? All please different stress on your shoulders and back. With a strong core, you should feel no stress at all.Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Clipless.
Toe clips are archaic today, you can't find them very much anymore. Cheaper bikes come with platforms, but once you step up a level or two, there are no pedals.How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
There's a lot to this!
I live in all kinds on mountains. 2x7 with a compact suits me. I don't think I could do a 1x11. A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
The bigger thing is the quality of the shifters. Shimano Sora are what the bottom of the line bikes come with, and don't have very many options. Lots of people say don't go below 105. That's a 2x11 or 3x nowadays.Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
Depends 😉
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scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
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scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
There are only a couple of hills in my area that break 20%, but it's impossible to ride from my house and NOT break 10%. I ride a compact double and it's fine. I've ridden a triple and was fine. My mountain bikes are a 1x1 and a 1x10.
IMO, you adjust to what you have, so both can work.0 -
scorpio516 wrote: »A triple has too much to go wrong, not to mention cross chaining.
I honestly have never had an issue with using a triple. That said, if I were to say, want to bike out of my neighborhood, half of the options involve going up hills with average gradients of well over 10% with sections into the low 20s. This is also why I am not planning on getting a 1x in the near future.
There are only a couple of hills in my area that break 20%, but it's impossible to ride from my house and NOT break 10%. I ride a compact double and it's fine. I've ridden a triple and was fine. My mountain bikes are a 1x1 and a 1x10.
IMO, you adjust to what you have, so both can work.
Oh I'm sure at this point in the game I could get by with a compact and that's what I'm planning on doing when I buy a new bike this upcoming, winter. That said, I don't think a triple is as bad as people make it out to be. That's perhaps especially true if you have knee issues. That said, I know that I'm not strong enough to ride a 1x where I live and I'm ok with that.0 -
Can someone explain in simple terms what single, double, triple gears are?0
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It's the number of gear rings by the pedal arms, as opposed to a cassette, which is the gears in the back on the rear wheel. A single is 1 ring, a doubled is 2, and a triple is 3.0
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scorpio516 wrote: »I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
No. Get a drop bar road bike from the get go. Road bikes are only hard to handle at low speed, and it's really hard to go slow. Drop bars give you many options for hand placement. You can be low on the drops, upright on the top, between on the hoods.
Agreed.
And regarding pedals, I use these on almost all my bicycles:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/au/en/shimano-m324-clipless-spd-flat-mtb-pedals/rp-prod5937
That way I can clip in ... or not.
I grew up in a cycling family. House full of bicycles, cycling everywhere, Bicycling Mag, back when it was good, etc.
Then at about 17, I more or less stopped cycling.
I picked it up again at 23, dug out the only bicycle I had (a hand-me-down road bicycle from my father which was way too big for me), got some books from the library and read about training plans and bicycle fit. Spent an evening getting that bicycle set up as well as I could given the size of the bicycle, and set off on my first ride in a long time on April 29, 1990. I rode 1 mile, had to stop for a break, and then rode the mile home. But I determined then that I would get better at this!!
Unfortunately I had no money, so I stuck with a bicycle that was too big for me for years. Then finally in the late 1990s bought a used bicycle ... but in my enthusiasm for getting a smaller bicycle, I went too small. Fortunately after several months, acquaintances of mine bought it ... she was about 5' tall and it worked well for her. I took the money and bought a low-end Giant (OCR3) that was the right size ... and I've just gone from there.
So sometimes it does take some trial and error. I've been through several saddles before I settled on the type that work for me. And different pedals. And different shorts. And different handlebars. And different shoes. And all sorts of trial and error with my gearing .....
What I'm trying to say is that you may not get it perfectly right immediately ... but things can be changed.
And what cyclist doesn't want a basement/garage that looks like a bicycle shop?!?!
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Concur with Brian 100%. (Nice link too BTW.) In a small town, if it has a really good bike shop, they may have the time to fit you as part of the bike sale, but they may or may not have the best skills. In general, don't assume you'll get anything of value for nothing. Ask locals in your area who they trust and be willing to pay for a good fitting.0
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Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.2 -
My baby:
Most Triathlon serious competitors have much nicer bikes than mine but I love my bike and am happy to be completing sprint triathlons and maybe next year an olympic triathlon.
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I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
Depends on riding goals. With whom will you be riding? If you ride a hybrid, you will have a hard time keeping up with road bike's speed.
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
Set aside some budget for this. Stock seats are generally replaced. About $150 should give you quality. Key is to avoid soft saddles, but not too hard. Soft equals more rub which leads to chafing, but you don't want to ride on a rock either. Most shops will accept returns to help you find the right one.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Proper form is important. Most weight should be beared by your legs. Your core should hold up your top half of the body. Start doing planks now as it will help your form. If you are leaning on your handlebars and putting all of your weight on the saddle, your hands, arms, shoulders, bacm, and butt will suffer. This usually happens when you're tired. If you build up mileage slowly, you'll have less discomfort overall.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Going flat to start is fine if you need to use budget elsewhere. This is one thing you canupgrade when you're ready and sure you enjoy it.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
Compact double crank. Also aim for a 28t gear on the rear, ie 12-28t rear cassette. Having more gears just means less change in between gears, not necessarily easier climbing.
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
For saddle height, feel for efficiency in output. If you feel like you're reaching and wobbling, you're too high. For handlebars, it's individual preference. I would make sure that when you buy, you have some room to move up or down. Moving back and forth can be done, but your have to buy a part.
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
A few things help smooth out a ride: Carbon frames are nice if you can afford. If not, at least try for a carbon fork -- it takes away road vibration. Riding larger tires will help soak up the bumps too (ie 25s instead of 23s). Quality shorts and gloves are important too. One more thing: have fun out there!
Thanks for any tips you can share!
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I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
1 -
I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
Triathlete in the making!3 -
I appreciate the bike answers here. I am considering an upright hybrid bike, but I've had severe knee injuries. When doing physical therapy I enjoyed the exercise bike, but I know at home I am not apt to enjoy biking when I'm not moving anywhere and seeing scenery (I feel the same way about my treadmill, which I am donating to a local community center. Mind you, I cannot run ever again, but I can walk on one... )
Upright is essential, I never felt I could enjoy my surroundings when hunched over looking at my shoelaces! I have no inclination to race, just to add in exercise I'd enjoy.
Getting fitted... yes, I will have to find the people who know how to do this professionally! The extra money would be worth it.0 -
Unless you have injuries that would make a recumbent more logical a road bike (or any other upright bicycle) wouldn't be any better or worse on your knees than a hybrid.I appreciate the bike answers here. I am considering an upright hybrid bike, but I've had severe knee injuries. When doing physical therapy I enjoyed the exercise bike, but I know at home I am not apt to enjoy biking when I'm not moving anywhere and seeing scenery (I feel the same way about my treadmill, which I am donating to a local community center. Mind you, I cannot run ever again, but I can walk on one... )
You shouldn't be hunched over looking at your shoelaces no matter what bike you're riding! I mean in some time trial setups you'll have a smaller field of vision, but you personally wouldn't have to worry about that because you don't want to race or more specifically do time trials/time trial like events. Unless I'm grumbling about how hard some climb is or how tired I am, it's pretty easy for me enjoy my surroundings and it is very easy for me to see them.Upright is essential, I never felt I could enjoy my surroundings when hunched over looking at my shoelaces!
I am in no way invested in what type of bike that you get, but dispelling misinformation is important to me.2 -
@suibhan6
The saddle to pedal relationship is the same on a hybrid and a road bike so no difference to your knees.
What made a big difference in relation to my multiple knee injuries is correct seat height and fore/aft position plus cleated cycling shoes - helps keep my wonky knees in line.
Neither a road bike or a hybrid has you looking at your shoelaces - a recumbent might do though!
My hybrid's handlebars are also the same height as my road bike so my upper body position is very similar when I'm riding on the hoods and I'm only lower when on the road bike drops.
A hybrid can certainly be more upright if you choose but you might find that less comfortable as all your weight is through your seat. You also have fewer hand position options which can be fatiguing.
Choose the right bike for you for the right reasons not the wrong reasons.
(I'm a fan of both for different riding.)
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I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
I would definitely get a road instead of a hybrid/upright bike in this case. Air resistance is going to be the #1 thing slowing you down, and the upright position is like having a parachute.2 -
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A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.1
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