Bike buying tips?
Replies
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I'm thinking about getting fitted for a bike. This would be for road biking and tri-sprints. I have not biked for 30 years and that was short, flat distances on a 3-speed Schwinn. I am open to buying used once I understand what I need.
I will talk to the bike shop and get fitted, but don't know what to ask about. What questions do I need to ask at the bike shop?
My questions for you:
A friend with experience suggested I start with a hybrid because they are easier to handle. Do you agree?
Depends on riding goals. With whom will you be riding? If you ride a hybrid, you will have a hard time keeping up with road bike's speed.
What do I need for a seat? My rear get sore within 15 minutes on a bike at the gym.
Set aside some budget for this. Stock seats are generally replaced. About $150 should give you quality. Key is to avoid soft saddles, but not too hard. Soft equals more rub which leads to chafing, but you don't want to ride on a rock either. Most shops will accept returns to help you find the right one.
Will the bent over position for the handlebars hurt my back & neck? I have arthritis in both areas and feel really uncomfortable bending over on the bike at the gym.
Proper form is important. Most weight should be beared by your legs. Your core should hold up your top half of the body. Start doing planks now as it will help your form. If you are leaning on your handlebars and putting all of your weight on the saddle, your hands, arms, shoulders, bacm, and butt will suffer. This usually happens when you're tired. If you build up mileage slowly, you'll have less discomfort overall.
Should I start with toe clips or clipless? I like the idea of getting more power from clipless but understand they are a lot trickier to learn. I've only used regular flat pedals.
Going flat to start is fine if you need to use budget elsewhere. This is one thing you canupgrade when you're ready and sure you enjoy it.
How many gears do I need to do hills successfully? (There are lots of hills where I live.)
Compact double crank. Also aim for a 28t gear on the rear, ie 12-28t rear cassette. Having more gears just means less change in between gears, not necessarily easier climbing.
Assuming a correct fit from the bike shop, what will I want to watch out for in terms of "feel" to ultimately get a comfortable ride?
For saddle height, feel for efficiency in output. If you feel like you're reaching and wobbling, you're too high. For handlebars, it's individual preference. I would make sure that when you buy, you have some room to move up or down. Moving back and forth can be done, but your have to buy a part.
What will I "wish" I had paid attention to once I lay down my $ and start riding?
A few things help smooth out a ride: Carbon frames are nice if you can afford. If not, at least try for a carbon fork -- it takes away road vibration. Riding larger tires will help soak up the bumps too (ie 25s instead of 23s). Quality shorts and gloves are important too. One more thing: have fun out there!
Thanks for any tips you can share!
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I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
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I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
Triathlete in the making!3 -
I appreciate the bike answers here. I am considering an upright hybrid bike, but I've had severe knee injuries. When doing physical therapy I enjoyed the exercise bike, but I know at home I am not apt to enjoy biking when I'm not moving anywhere and seeing scenery (I feel the same way about my treadmill, which I am donating to a local community center. Mind you, I cannot run ever again, but I can walk on one... )
Upright is essential, I never felt I could enjoy my surroundings when hunched over looking at my shoelaces! I have no inclination to race, just to add in exercise I'd enjoy.
Getting fitted... yes, I will have to find the people who know how to do this professionally! The extra money would be worth it.0 -
Unless you have injuries that would make a recumbent more logical a road bike (or any other upright bicycle) wouldn't be any better or worse on your knees than a hybrid.I appreciate the bike answers here. I am considering an upright hybrid bike, but I've had severe knee injuries. When doing physical therapy I enjoyed the exercise bike, but I know at home I am not apt to enjoy biking when I'm not moving anywhere and seeing scenery (I feel the same way about my treadmill, which I am donating to a local community center. Mind you, I cannot run ever again, but I can walk on one... )
You shouldn't be hunched over looking at your shoelaces no matter what bike you're riding! I mean in some time trial setups you'll have a smaller field of vision, but you personally wouldn't have to worry about that because you don't want to race or more specifically do time trials/time trial like events. Unless I'm grumbling about how hard some climb is or how tired I am, it's pretty easy for me enjoy my surroundings and it is very easy for me to see them.Upright is essential, I never felt I could enjoy my surroundings when hunched over looking at my shoelaces!
I am in no way invested in what type of bike that you get, but dispelling misinformation is important to me.2 -
@suibhan6
The saddle to pedal relationship is the same on a hybrid and a road bike so no difference to your knees.
What made a big difference in relation to my multiple knee injuries is correct seat height and fore/aft position plus cleated cycling shoes - helps keep my wonky knees in line.
Neither a road bike or a hybrid has you looking at your shoelaces - a recumbent might do though!
My hybrid's handlebars are also the same height as my road bike so my upper body position is very similar when I'm riding on the hoods and I'm only lower when on the road bike drops.
A hybrid can certainly be more upright if you choose but you might find that less comfortable as all your weight is through your seat. You also have fewer hand position options which can be fatiguing.
Choose the right bike for you for the right reasons not the wrong reasons.
(I'm a fan of both for different riding.)
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I’m doing the swim leg of a tri sprint team in 2 weeks. Been training with a group all summer. Our practice tri was today and I was sorry I had to stop after the swim!Hi,
I am 60 and just started road cycling after almost 20 years off. I wasn't sure if I could road cycle again after hip and abdominal surgeries a few years back plus arthritis. I started swimming last year and enjoy walking dogs and hiking. I have done two sprint triathlons this year!!!!! Go for the road bike but get an excellent fitting session. Join a bike club to get the feel of riding in a pack. Last few years we were stationed in Italy and my husband took me to the original Pinarello store. They spent 30 minutes with me on stationary road bicycles and took all kinds of measurements and entered in the computer. At the time I wanted a "city" upright bike but my husband wanted me to road bike with him and bought me a lower end Pinarello...I love it. I wasn't sure if I could get back into road cycling but I have and I love it. We have started riding with a local bike store group ride plus doing several bike tours. I would not have been happy with my mountain bike or upright bike because they are so slow you end up spending more hours in the saddle. Invest in good bike shorts. I like Pearl Izumi. There is a lot of good advice here.
I like to do my exercises that are harder on my body...walking/jogging/hiking or bicycling and then swim. I work a lot on proper technique with my swim and I am always getting a good workout but the water seems to soothe my aching joints. I enjoy a very cold pool...after that initial burr...I know you didn't ask for all this advice but you are planning on getting into triathlons and there is a lot to consider (and please do...train slow but efficient, I think you are much younger than me). When I started riding again, my back or seat would hurt after 30 minutes, then it would be 45 or 60 minutes and now I feel like I can ride 90 -120 minutes before I start feeling a little sore. I use to ride horses and it was the same thing...seat and thigh muscles would be sore if I had not ridden in a while. Does not mean the saddle was wrong although that can contribute to it but you need to start slow and gradual esp. if you have arthritis. I keep a log. In May I almost bought a gel seat for my first tri because my seat would hurt, I didn't and now at the end of summer I don't even think about it.
I would definitely get a road instead of a hybrid/upright bike in this case. Air resistance is going to be the #1 thing slowing you down, and the upright position is like having a parachute.2 -
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A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.1 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.3 -
Great ideas and suggestions!!!!0
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scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!0 -
Great advice here! Yay that you are getting into Triathlon! I have a triple and a double and love them both
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scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
There's a lot to cycling and racing that you can overthink. Like, all of it. But at the end of the day, ask around and figure out which are the good shops and which to avoid. Then go to a good shop and see what they recommend. Do that, and you're 90% of the way there.2 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
We live in a very hilly region. It can be intimidating, but after a while you just accept it as the way things are. It'll make you stronger. There will come a day when you'll have to answer questions from new cyclists in Florida who dread riding over bridges.1 -
NorthCascades wrote: »scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
We live in a very hilly region. It can be intimidating, but after a while you just accept it as the way things are. It'll make you stronger. There will come a day when you'll have to answer questions from new cyclists in Florida who dread riding over bridges.
Or in a less extreme example (though yours is very realistic), you ride a hilly century and think to yourself, "oh this is what people are talking about when they are referring to hills? huh, well that's interesting." while spinning up said hills far faster than you would be able to do near your house.2 -
I agree with all the advice you're been given, but also, consider an electric bike. I can hear the true believers groaning already, but they are very good, especially if you are not yet fit enough to tackle the local hills, no matter what the gearing. Look at 'electric assist' bikes, where the power only comes in to support you, and does not provide a constant amount of power. Mine has five levels of assist, from none to 'turbo'. When I started commuting, I was in maximum assist the whole time (level 5). I'm now in level 3 going to work, level 2 coming home. I use 3 for going as I don't want to be totally wiped when I get to work. Level 2 gives me a better workout and that's great so that when I get home I can collapse in the corner quietly. Seriously, using an electric bike has been a great experience for me.
See https://electricbikereview.com/ for great reviews. They do cost more than unpowered bikes, but I am a believer.
- Mark2 -
Great post, one thing I didn't realize when I bought a trek a few years back was that I need my feet to touch the ground from the seated position. When I got my bike I wanted to be seated more upright because of neck and back issues too, and for some reason they put me into a pretty high bike, which didn't feel right. since then, I've had the seat lowered and although I still can't reach the ground barely with my toes, it's much better. But if I had to do it again I'd get one where I could reach the ground while sitting on the seat. I definitely recommend a "cloud" seat if they still make them
good luck!! 1 -
markgnicholson wrote: »I agree with all the advice you're been given, but also, consider an electric bike. I can hear the true believers groaning already, but they are very good, especially if you are not yet fit enough to tackle the local hills, no matter what the gearing. Look at 'electric assist' bikes, where the power only comes in to support you, and does not provide a constant amount of power. Mine has five levels of assist, from none to 'turbo'. When I started commuting, I was in maximum assist the whole time (level 5). I'm now in level 3 going to work, level 2 coming home. I use 3 for going as I don't want to be totally wiped when I get to work. Level 2 gives me a better workout and that's great so that when I get home I can collapse in the corner quietly. Seriously, using an electric bike has been a great experience for me.
See https://electricbikereview.com/ for great reviews. They do cost more than unpowered bikes, but I am a believer.
- Mark
I don't think that will work, she wants to do triathlon.
There's so much great advice here in this thread. I would put my vote in for a decent road bike, not the lowest end, and not the top, but a good mid range mashine. You will enjoy riding it and would be exited to do it, if you can afford it.
I wouldn't worry about replacing stock seat, it probably will be fine. My Cannondale is a few years old and i love the original seat, although i have experimented with different saddles, just to compare. Often bike shops have loaners for you to try out for free. But since it's pretty new to you, allow plenty of time to get used to it and increase distance gradually. It will get better.
Definitely get a good pair of padded shorts, not too thick, not too thin. That will help a great deal. Too much padding is not better though, keep that in mind.
Go clipless, it's not difficult to get used to, gives you extra power and control. They should teach you at your bike shop and let you practice so you know what to do.
Don't forget a good pair of gloves too, they will help in reducing pressure on median nerve in your hands and protect from damaging it.1 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
Great discussion in this thread, but now I"m starting to get nervous. After all the research and adjustments I made during the last year to optimize my bike for a bunch of hilly races, I just realized that next year's A race for me will probably be the one held in Panama City Florida. That course is flat as a pancake!
SO, it gets me thinking: Do I make more changes to my current bike, swapping out the compact crank and 11/ 30 for a flat course set up, or leave it alone and just buy another bike? 0 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
Great discussion in this thread, but now I"m starting to get nervous. After all the research and adjustments I made during the last year to optimize my bike for a bunch of hilly races, I just realized that next year's A race for me will probably be the one held in Panama City Florida. That course is flat as a pancake!
SO, it gets me thinking: Do I make more changes to my current bike, swapping out the compact crank and 11/ 30 for a flat course set up, or leave it alone and just buy another bike?
obviously another bike. Do you even n+1???3 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
Great discussion in this thread, but now I"m starting to get nervous. After all the research and adjustments I made during the last year to optimize my bike for a bunch of hilly races, I just realized that next year's A race for me will probably be the one held in Panama City Florida. That course is flat as a pancake!
SO, it gets me thinking: Do I make more changes to my current bike, swapping out the compact crank and 11/ 30 for a flat course set up, or leave it alone and just buy another bike?
obviously another bike. Do you even n+1???
Exactly. I'm a Florida rider and we all ride 54x11 fixed gears down here. Time for a track bike.
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scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
Great discussion in this thread, but now I"m starting to get nervous. After all the research and adjustments I made during the last year to optimize my bike for a bunch of hilly races, I just realized that next year's A race for me will probably be the one held in Panama City Florida. That course is flat as a pancake!
SO, it gets me thinking: Do I make more changes to my current bike, swapping out the compact crank and 11/ 30 for a flat course set up, or leave it alone and just buy another bike?
obviously another bike. Do you even n+1???
Haha, its the logical choice. Now working on a strategy to sell it to my wife.
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this is awesome.
I had a business counterpart once say... "Bikes can be expensive; I saw one selling for $300 !"
I had to tell him: "Dude, my wheelset alone was eight hundred dollars, never mind the bike."1 -
scorpio516 wrote: »
A single front ring is the simplest, and lightest. Less than half the parts as a double or triple. BUT depending on how it's setup, you can either run out of gear or have a really hard time climbing. A drivetrain setup for steep climbing might run out of gear on the down hill or flats. As in you could go faster, but your legs can't spin any faster. Still pretty rare outside TT, MTB, and gravel bikes.
Triple, 3x have 3 front rings. They have 3 rings and a derailleur. They are the most complex and they can get out of tune the easiest - makes it harder to shift. You also can run into problems cross-chaining - running from the outer most front ring to the innermost rear ring or vice versa.
Finally, quite often the middle ring is useless. Often all the gears there are covered between the outer and inner chain ring. There are some pros - less front shifting.
Double sometimes are the best of both. Less overlap, more unique gears. But a standard double can be pretty tough for climbing - the smallest front ring on a standard double is a lot bigger than the small ring on a triple. On the other hand, a compact double has a smaller big ring - on long downhills you can run out of gear too.
That's a pretty good explanation. To build on it...
I want to emphasis the idea that more gears is not necessarily better. What is better? The right gears. A half-way decent shop should be able to get you matched up to a gear setup that is appropriate for local terrain. I don't think most recreational cyclists or weekend racers need to worry about running out of gears at high speed, but not having easy enough gears for climbing hills can be a concern.
Thank you, I would definitely prefer help climbing!
Great discussion in this thread, but now I"m starting to get nervous. After all the research and adjustments I made during the last year to optimize my bike for a bunch of hilly races, I just realized that next year's A race for me will probably be the one held in Panama City Florida. That course is flat as a pancake!
SO, it gets me thinking: Do I make more changes to my current bike, swapping out the compact crank and 11/ 30 for a flat course set up, or leave it alone and just buy another bike?
obviously another bike. Do you even n+1???
Haha, its the logical choice. Now working on a strategy to sell it to my wife.
I showed my wife a printout of the estimated cost of cardiac by-pass surgery and then showed her what a great bike would cost.
The other benefit was that I would be out of the house, riding, for hours on end..... she liked that.2 -
I had a business counterpart once say... "Bikes can be expensive; I saw one selling for $300 !"
I had to tell him: "Dude, my wheelset alone was eight hundred dollars, never mind the bike."
My husband's friends joined us for his first Ironman and were amazed when I told him the upper end bikes were at least $10,000 - 15,000 bikes plus more for different components.
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awinner_au wrote: »Great suggestions above. All good stuff.
I'll offer my 2 cents: Sounds like you would really benefit from working with a good bike fitter, since you said you have comfort issues with the standard road bike riding position. A fitter will help you find the most comfortable position and adjust your bike to put you in a comfortable (and efficient) position on the bike. A bike fitting is worth every penny spent if you intend to ride any real distance.
For example, I had a bike fit done first, prior to buying my bike, then we took my specs and shopped for a tri bike with the geometry that lined up well with my measurements. A fitter would do the same thing with a road bike.
Also, if you're thinking of dabbling in triathlons, buying a road bike makes a lot of sense. With a properly fitted road bike, you'd have a dual purpose bike for both racing and social rides.
Good luck with your bike search. Getting a new bike is exciting!
agree wholeheartedly. Saved me a lot of typing. Just to emphasise, a bike shop bike fit is quite different to a proper bike fit unless the shop does both.
What do you mean by this?
I've never really heard it differentiated like that, but what I assume they mean is...
Any bike shop can spend 20 minutes and get you reasonably fitted to a bike. This is sufficient for "most" people. Only some shops can/will fit your first, then take all those numbers/measurements and find the bike that is best suited to you. IME, it goes something like this...- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee recommends a few bikes.
- You ask a couple of questions, employee answers, you make a decision.
- Employee says you'd probably fit best on a medium or 55 or whatever size bike.
- You say ok.
- Employee adjusts bars and saddle.
- You buy the bike. The end.
- Walk into a shop, tell them what you're looking for.
- Employee gets other employee who is trained/certified fitter.
- Fitter puts you on the fitting bike/machine.
- You spend some time (could be 20 minutes, could be an hour) spinning on the bike while the fitter makes small adjustments to things like seat height and position, bar height, stem length, stem angle, etc etc.
- After some time, you decide you're reasonably comfortable with the setup.
- Fitter takes the numbers/measurements and compares those to the bikes he sells. Figures out which bike(s) most closely match your numbers and makes a recommendation.
- You ask questions, fitter answers, you make a decision.
- You buy the bike.
- maybe the end, maybe not. Some shops/fitters will include a fit tweak after some initial time with the bike.
- You fall in love with cycling, take out a 3rd mortgage, buy all the bikes.
- The end.
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