Cold weather cycling and walking gear
gradchica27
Posts: 777 Member
Covid has pushed me out of the gym and into the elements. What are your must have gear for cold weather cycling and walking?
I’m new to cycling, and my toes are frozen after more rides now, so clearly I need some tips!
I’m new to cycling, and my toes are frozen after more rides now, so clearly I need some tips!
2
Replies
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I am a figure skater and just bought some fleece lined leggings. I've been wearing them for walks too and oh my, I wish I'd bought them sooner! I highly recommend.2
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moisture wicking layers with a wind resistant outer layer. For cycling, arm warmers, leg warmers, tights, jacket, gloves and if you're wearing cycling specific shoes ... toe covers then shoe covers depending on temps. The right socks help a lot.
1 -
Rule 1: be slightly chilly when you walk out the door, or you'll overheat. (Dress for the second mile not the first.)
Rule 2: don't sweat. Once you get wet it's a lot harder to stay comfortable.
Rule 3: what you wear depends on the intensity you plan on. If you're going to do a hard fast ride, the exercise will keep you warm and you need to wear less to compensate.
Rule 4: beyond this point, it's highly personal. Some people run hot, some run cold. So everybody winds up having to experiment to get it right.
Tip 1: wool socks, not too tight. Wool keeps some of its insulating power when it's wet. If that's not enough, look into neoprene cycling booties.
Tip 2: drink a hot tea or coffee right before you leave, because rule 1.
Tip 3: multiple layers are almost always better, they let you adjust.
Tip 4: your hands can get blistering cold on a bike, and you can't wear super thick gloves because you need to be able to use the brakes and shifters. If that winds up being a problem they make lobster claw style mittens that attach to the handlebar, the brake levers wind up inside the mittens. They're not super common but you should know that's an option.
Tip 5: unless you want to spend $$$$$, nothing completely waterproof is very breathable. Waterproof jacket means you'll be sweaty and that's still wet. Soft shell is better than a hard shell on a bike.6 -
Cycling in winter you need to keep your hands , toes, chest and head warm. Your legs can take care of themselves. I won't do a run or cycle in winter without my trusty buff and some windproof gloves. Windproof is even more important than waterproof as its the windchill that gets you in the bones. I'd also totally recommend a good pair of neoprene overshoes if you wear cycle shoes or a pair of sealskins socks if you don't. They really keep the heat in.
My other must have is a windproof gilet or jacket. Goretex is great and will last for years if you can afford it. You want to keep layers thin, light, and as windproof as you can. You can get tights coated with goretex or windproof panels too if your thighs get cold.
Most cycle and running gear is nicely interchangeable apart from padded shorts and shoes.
And belive me as a many time competitor in winter cycling events like the 24 hour mountain bike race in the North of Scotland every January I've cycled in some pretty rubbish conditions.
Decathlon is great for cheap but trusty winter gear, I'm not sure if they are in the US though.
If you do nothing else get a buff as it can be used as a hat, neckwear, hairband, wrapped round cold hands as a muffin or used as a facemask, costs pennies and easy to stick in your pockets when not needed.4 -
I don’t cycle, but you mentioned walking also:
I got light weight long johns at rei years ago, but then I got fatter and they are no longer wearable. I have leggings for the gym that I wear under my jeans.
Also, for walking, I gave up on trying to find the warmest socks, and invested in a comfortable warm pair of winter hiking boots. My feet thank me for that every winter.2 -
NorthCascades wrote: »Rule 1: be slightly chilly when you walk out the door, or you'll overheat. (Dress for the second mile not the first.)
Rule 2: don't sweat. Once you get wet it's a lot harder to stay comfortable.
Rule 3: what you wear depends on the intensity you plan on. If you're going to do a hard fast ride, the exercise will keep you warm and you need to wear less to compensate.
Rule 4: beyond this point, it's highly personal. Some people run hot, some run cold. So everybody winds up having to experiment to get it right.
Tip 1: wool socks, not too tight. Wool keeps some of its insulating power when it's wet. If that's not enough, look into neoprene cycling booties.
Tip 2: drink a hot tea or coffee right before you leave, because rule 1.
Tip 3: multiple layers are almost always better, they let you adjust.
Tip 4: your hands can get blistering cold on a bike, and you can't wear super thick gloves because you need to be able to use the brakes and shifters. If that winds up being a problem they make lobster claw style mittens that attach to the handlebar, the brake levers wind up inside the mittens. They're not super common but you should know that's an option.
Tip 5: unless you want to spend $$$$$, nothing completely waterproof is very breathable. Waterproof jacket means you'll be sweaty and that's still wet. Soft shell is better than a hard shell on a bike.
Great rules and tips! Rule 1 helps accomplish rule 2.
I love wool socks! Any tips on what the % of wool should be and what other fabric blends are acceptable?
REI says:
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/socks.html
railwasher · a year ago
When looking at socks, what is considered an adequate merino wool content? Many are 20% are less, but tout them as "wool" socks. I do want them to be easy care i.e. machine wash and dry. I work construction and need something fairly warm and dry..
REIservice · a year ago
There really isn't a scale for the adequate amount of Merino in a sock. Overall, most wool socks can be machine washed, are quick to dry and wick moisture really well. What you should stay away from are socks that are a cotton/wool blend; these will not be quick dry and will hold moisture next to the skin. A sock that contains Merino, nylon and elastane is a good option. We also recommend medium cushion for the long hours you will be on your feet doing construction2 -
Now I'm looking at wool socks on Amazon and seeing a lot of very cheap ones with "rabbit wool." After reading up on that, I'd stick to merino wool, which comes from sheep. The second article has info on how to buy what they call "ethical wool," what I'd call "less unethical."
https://goodonyou.eco/material-guide-angora/
https://goodonyou.eco/material-guide-ethical-wool/
I may stick to Maggie's Organic wool socks. They are more expensive, but I know they fit perfectly in my slippers and LL Bean hiking boots.
https://maggiesorganics.com/behind-the-label/wool-socks/2 -
Fleece-lined gear is key. I also always have to have my Yaktrax on hand because the dirt roads here get really icy and snowy!1
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I don't ride a bicycle but have many yrs of
experience riding a motorcycle, skiing and hiking in cold/wet weather.
My "rules" for dressing warmly in these circumstances are really quite simple:
Just dress in layers
A min of 2-3 layers of clothing made of materials that do NOT retain moisture and "breathe" so that any perspiration will be wicked away from your skin.
There is NO WAY to avoid sweating. You perspire constantly even when sitting still and even more so when engaged in physical activity. So, you need clothing that will eick moisture away from your skin and body and that will allow it to pass thru the top layer so that the moisture is not retained below it.
Wool was in the past but is NO LONGER a desireable material to wear while engaged in outdoor activities because it retains mosture and loses its thermal protection when wet and also easily become misshapened . Modern materials are far better and I threw away all of my wool socks & mitts/glovesyears ago.
I typically wear 3 layers for my upper body and 2 for the lower body, hands, feet and head.
Upper body : spandex base layer, light (polypropolyene or heavy fleece mid layer and a gortex (or similar) top layer.
Legs: Usually just a base spandex layer and gortex top layer but also a med wt polypropelyene layer when really cold.
Feet: Usually just polypropelene socks w/insulated and waterproof boots but if really cold will also add silk and/or polypropeleyne liners on top of that.
Hands: Waterproof or gortex gloves w/silk and or polypropelene liners as needed. I got apair of gortex gaunlet skiing gloves that I can wear over a pair of silk liners and a regular pair of gloves.
For motorcycling, I got all kinds of gloves (summer, winter andwet weather), including a pair that's heated and can be linked to a heated vest that I also have.
For your head, a skull liner and a hat is the min requirement and you can add ear muffs and a balaklava as needed
Haven't frozen to death following this single rule yet but have still felt chillrd to the bone in certain situations despite of it.4 -
I don't ride a bicycle but have many yrs of
experience riding a motorcycle, skiing and hiking in cold/wet weather.
My "rules" for dressing warmly in these circumstances are really quite simple:
Just dress in layers
A min of 2-3 layers of clothing made of materials that do NOT retain moisture and "breathe" so that any perspiration will be wicked away from your skin.
There is NO WAY to avoid sweating. You perspire constantly even when sitting still and even more so when engaged in physical activity. So, you need clothing that will eick moisture away from your skin and body and that will allow it to pass thru the top layer so that the moisture is not retained below it.
Wool was in the past but is NO LONGER a desireable material to wear while engaged in outdoor activities because it retains mosture and loses its thermal protection when wet and also easily become misshapened . Modern materials are far better and I threw away all of my wool socks & mitts/glovesyears ago.
I typically wear 3 layers for my upper body and 2 for the lower body, hands, feet and head.
Upper body : spandex base layer, light (polypropolyene or heavy fleece mid layer and a gortex (or similar) top layer.
Legs: Usually just a base spandex layer and gortex top layer but also a med wt polypropelyene layer when really cold.
Feet: Usually just polypropelene socks w/insulated and waterproof boots but if really cold will also add silk and/or polypropeleyne liners on top of that.
Hands: Waterproof or gortex gloves w/silk and or polypropelene liners as needed. I got apair of gortex gaunlet skiing gloves that I can wear over a pair of silk liners and a regular pair of gloves.
For motorcycling, I got all kinds of gloves (summer, winter andwet weather), including a pair that's heated and can be linked to a heated vest that I also have.
For your head, a skull liner and a hat is the min requirement and you can add ear muffs and a balaklava as needed
Haven't frozen to death following this single rule yet but have still felt chillrd to the bone in certain situations despite of it.
^^
I second the above to stay away from wool completely. Many better options are available.
My husband has an arcteryx jacket he uses as a layer in between his base layer and jacket. Super light weight (maybe not as important for walking, but very good for hiking).
I have a lightweight winter jacket (outdoor research). We hike a lot and lightweight is crucial as we both often take off various layers and pack them as the weather changes.1 -
I have Raynaud. Doesn’t matter what i wear or do: my toes, and fingers to lesser extend always freeze. No solution for me2
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Get yourself a pair of bib tights, you can always add a merino wool base layer if it's really cold, the bib tights will stop you from getting any exposed skin if you're getting a little more aerodynamic. Check out "lobster" gloves, not quite a mitten and not quite a glove - you'll thank me later!1
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Not a fan of lobster gloves, but I do wear mittens with that flip down and then liners underneath. I have thin glove liners and then more heavy duty glove liners for when it gets into the 20s. Anything below 20 degrees F and I workout at home until it warms up out. 😜1
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Not sure if anyone has said this but put your feet in plastic bags then put your socks on. It feels awful at first but then you get used to it.0
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Not sure if anyone has said this but put your feet in plastic bags then put your socks on. It feels awful at first but then you get used to it.
Not a good idea.
Plastic bag will hold moisture in and make your feet feel cold and clamy and, if done for a long time would cause toes/feet to wtinkle and be more susceptible to blisters.
However, it would good be a good idea for temp/emergency foot water proofing when raining or if you have to walk thru streams BUT you need to put the bag over (not under) your socks when you do this and you should remove the bag asap for the reasons above.5 -
kshama2001 wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Rule 1: be slightly chilly when you walk out the door, or you'll overheat. (Dress for the second mile not the first.)
Rule 2: don't sweat. Once you get wet it's a lot harder to stay comfortable.
Rule 3: what you wear depends on the intensity you plan on. If you're going to do a hard fast ride, the exercise will keep you warm and you need to wear less to compensate.
Rule 4: beyond this point, it's highly personal. Some people run hot, some run cold. So everybody winds up having to experiment to get it right.
Tip 1: wool socks, not too tight. Wool keeps some of its insulating power when it's wet. If that's not enough, look into neoprene cycling booties.
Tip 2: drink a hot tea or coffee right before you leave, because rule 1.
Tip 3: multiple layers are almost always better, they let you adjust.
Tip 4: your hands can get blistering cold on a bike, and you can't wear super thick gloves because you need to be able to use the brakes and shifters. If that winds up being a problem they make lobster claw style mittens that attach to the handlebar, the brake levers wind up inside the mittens. They're not super common but you should know that's an option.
Tip 5: unless you want to spend $$$$$, nothing completely waterproof is very breathable. Waterproof jacket means you'll be sweaty and that's still wet. Soft shell is better than a hard shell on a bike.
Great rules and tips! Rule 1 helps accomplish rule 2.
I love wool socks! Any tips on what the % of wool should be and what other fabric blends are acceptable?
REI says:
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/socks.html
railwasher · a year ago
When looking at socks, what is considered an adequate merino wool content? Many are 20% are less, but tout them as "wool" socks. I do want them to be easy care i.e. machine wash and dry. I work construction and need something fairly warm and dry..
REIservice · a year ago
There really isn't a scale for the adequate amount of Merino in a sock. Overall, most wool socks can be machine washed, are quick to dry and wick moisture really well. What you should stay away from are socks that are a cotton/wool blend; these will not be quick dry and will hold moisture next to the skin. A sock that contains Merino, nylon and elastane is a good option. We also recommend medium cushion for the long hours you will be on your feet doing construction
I look for 60+ %. It seems like having other fabrics mixed in can help them hold their shape and probably hold up better. But I noticed the same thing about people selling "wool" socks with very little wool, for big money.
Somebody got me a pair of alpaca socks, they're heavenly. I've been getting a couple pairs whenever I find them on sale. It's like silky cashmere! 🥰1 -
I don't ride a bicycle but have many yrs of
experience riding a motorcycle, skiing and hiking in cold/wet weather.
My "rules" for dressing warmly in these circumstances are really quite simple:
Just dress in layers
A min of 2-3 layers of clothing made of materials that do NOT retain moisture and "breathe" so that any perspiration will be wicked away from your skin.
There is NO WAY to avoid sweating. You perspire constantly even when sitting still and even more so when engaged in physical activity. So, you need clothing that will eick moisture away from your skin and body and that will allow it to pass thru the top layer so that the moisture is not retained below it.
Wool was in the past but is NO LONGER a desireable material to wear while engaged in outdoor activities because it retains mosture and loses its thermal protection when wet and also easily become misshapened . Modern materials are far better and I threw away all of my wool socks & mitts/glovesyears ago.
I typically wear 3 layers for my upper body and 2 for the lower body, hands, feet and head.
Upper body : spandex base layer, light (polypropolyene or heavy fleece mid layer and a gortex (or similar) top layer.
Legs: Usually just a base spandex layer and gortex top layer but also a med wt polypropelyene layer when really cold.
Feet: Usually just polypropelene socks w/insulated and waterproof boots but if really cold will also add silk and/or polypropeleyne liners on top of that.
Hands: Waterproof or gortex gloves w/silk and or polypropelene liners as needed. I got apair of gortex gaunlet skiing gloves that I can wear over a pair of silk liners and a regular pair of gloves.
For motorcycling, I got all kinds of gloves (summer, winter andwet weather), including a pair that's heated and can be linked to a heated vest that I also have.
For your head, a skull liner and a hat is the min requirement and you can add ear muffs and a balaklava as needed
Haven't frozen to death following this single rule yet but have still felt chillrd to the bone in certain situations despite of it.
Maybe I should have called this one a principal instead of a rule. 🙂
If you're out for a walk, you might sweat a little but you should be able to avoid getting drenched and saturating your clothes in sweat. On a bike it's hard to avoid sweating at all but you can lessen it by matching your clothes to your intensity level.
Yesterday I skied up and then back down a mountain. I knew I was going to sweat a lot, so I brought two dry changes of all top layers, and was very glad to have them. I wouldn't do that most of the time, but I'm doing what I can to stay as dry as I can.
I agree about layers. And I personally stopped using merino base layers a few years ago because some of the technical synthetic materials dry so much faster. I prefer a softshell over a hardshell whenever I can get away with it, but goretex is almost always in my pack just in case.2 -
NorthCascades wrote: »kshama2001 wrote: »NorthCascades wrote: »Rule 1: be slightly chilly when you walk out the door, or you'll overheat. (Dress for the second mile not the first.)
Rule 2: don't sweat. Once you get wet it's a lot harder to stay comfortable.
Rule 3: what you wear depends on the intensity you plan on. If you're going to do a hard fast ride, the exercise will keep you warm and you need to wear less to compensate.
Rule 4: beyond this point, it's highly personal. Some people run hot, some run cold. So everybody winds up having to experiment to get it right.
Tip 1: wool socks, not too tight. Wool keeps some of its insulating power when it's wet. If that's not enough, look into neoprene cycling booties.
Tip 2: drink a hot tea or coffee right before you leave, because rule 1.
Tip 3: multiple layers are almost always better, they let you adjust.
Tip 4: your hands can get blistering cold on a bike, and you can't wear super thick gloves because you need to be able to use the brakes and shifters. If that winds up being a problem they make lobster claw style mittens that attach to the handlebar, the brake levers wind up inside the mittens. They're not super common but you should know that's an option.
Tip 5: unless you want to spend $$$$$, nothing completely waterproof is very breathable. Waterproof jacket means you'll be sweaty and that's still wet. Soft shell is better than a hard shell on a bike.
Great rules and tips! Rule 1 helps accomplish rule 2.
I love wool socks! Any tips on what the % of wool should be and what other fabric blends are acceptable?
REI says:
https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/socks.html
railwasher · a year ago
When looking at socks, what is considered an adequate merino wool content? Many are 20% are less, but tout them as "wool" socks. I do want them to be easy care i.e. machine wash and dry. I work construction and need something fairly warm and dry..
REIservice · a year ago
There really isn't a scale for the adequate amount of Merino in a sock. Overall, most wool socks can be machine washed, are quick to dry and wick moisture really well. What you should stay away from are socks that are a cotton/wool blend; these will not be quick dry and will hold moisture next to the skin. A sock that contains Merino, nylon and elastane is a good option. We also recommend medium cushion for the long hours you will be on your feet doing construction
I look for 60+ %. It seems like having other fabrics mixed in can help them hold their shape and probably hold up better. But I noticed the same thing about people selling "wool" socks with very little wool, for big money.
Somebody got me a pair of alpaca socks, they're heavenly. I've been getting a couple pairs whenever I find them on sale. It's like silky cashmere! 🥰
Thanks!
I have an alpaca hat I adore
1 -
Not sure if anyone has said this but put your feet in plastic bags then put your socks on. It feels awful at first but then you get used to it.
I have done this but sort of in reverse. Put the plastic bag over the socks. Emergency booties for unexpected cold weather rainstorm. Worked well - my feet were sweaty but not as wet as they would have been doing the last 40 miles of a century in cold rain. I’ve since done it for short rides when it’s really cold just as a windbreak-my cycling shoes are super porous.2 -
@xtineart nailed it for cycling. It's actually very hard to get comfortable in freezing conditions. I've given up and I do it on a trainer! Also, cycling on ice is pretty dangerous without spiked fat tires and all that. So, maybe switch to walking and jogging with microspikes. Or, if there's snow, cross-country skiing. All great stuff!
For cycling in above-freezing, cold-weather conditions, (35-45 degF): You need to get your feet, hands, face, and head protected but not completely sealed. Hand-warmers work well. Ditch the clip-on pedals (if you have them) and go for winter hiking boots with wool socks. Bib-tights with a second layer is incredibly warm. A gor-tex shell over micro-fleece works well (pit-zips are useful).You're better off using a ski helmet and ski goggles with a balaclava, just as in downhill skiing, but you can also try to fit a full balaclava under a bike helmet. Now you might wonder if it is all worth it or if you should just go for a hike!
Best of luck and have fun experimenting with the clothing!2
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