Garden thread
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Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!3
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kshama2001 wrote: »@lemurcat2 what's your soil temperature?
https://todayshomeowner.com/how-to-measure-soil-temperature-for-planting/
Garden Vegetable Seed Germination Temperatures
The soil temperature for planting vegetables should be:- 40° F or warmer: Lettuce, kale, peas, spinach.
- 50° F or warmer: Onions, leeks, turnips, Swiss chard.
- 60° F or warmer: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, beans, beets.
- 70° F or warmer: Tomatoes, squash, corn, cucumbers, melons, peppers.
The seed germination temperature is often much warmer than the plant’s growing temperature. Once established, many veggies can handle much cooler air temperatures as long as the soil is warm enough. To get a head start on spring planting, plant seeds indoors or use plastic row covers to warm the soil more quickly.
Last I knew, one could also buy a special heating mat (like a low-temp heating pad) for indoor seed-starting use in cool areas that have enough light.
People who haven't used cloches, including HotKaps (a little dome made out of waxed paper), might want to consider that option, as another alternative to row covers. As someone whose situation made hills vs. rows of vining veggies a more practical planting layout, these were very helpful. The literal hilling of the soil means the area where the seeds are warms faster, and the cloche/HotKap accelerates that further. Put something nice and nitrogenous (but not burningly so) below the hill for heavy feeders to grow their roots down into eventually, and you've got yourself a system.
If you use fixed cloches (reusable, plastic or glass), they either then need closeable ventilation ports, or need take other steps to make sure baby plants don't over-heat as days warm and it's very sunny. Though the HotKaps are disposable/single-use waxed paper, one can gradually tear an increasing-sizede hole in the top as the weather warms, to accomplish this.2 -
Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I just use my meat thermometer in the garden as well. It's a CDN, which was well rated by America's Test Kitchen at the time of purchase. That was @ 5 years ago, so may not be this exact model: https://smile.amazon.com/CDN-DTQ450X-Thin-Tip-Thermometer/dp/B0021AEAG2/
(If someone knows why using a meat thermometer in the garden wouldn't be accurate, please advise.)2 -
kshama2001 wrote: »@lemurcat2 what's your soil temperature?
https://todayshomeowner.com/how-to-measure-soil-temperature-for-planting/
Garden Vegetable Seed Germination Temperatures
The soil temperature for planting vegetables should be:- 40° F or warmer: Lettuce, kale, peas, spinach.
- 50° F or warmer: Onions, leeks, turnips, Swiss chard.
- 60° F or warmer: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, beans, beets.
- 70° F or warmer: Tomatoes, squash, corn, cucumbers, melons, peppers.
The seed germination temperature is often much warmer than the plant’s growing temperature. Once established, many veggies can handle much cooler air temperatures as long as the soil is warm enough. To get a head start on spring planting, plant seeds indoors or use plastic row covers to warm the soil more quickly.
Last I knew, one could also buy a special heating mat (like a low-temp heating pad) for indoor seed-starting use in cool areas that have enough light.
People who haven't used cloches, including HotKaps (a little dome made out of waxed paper), might want to consider that option, as another alternative to row covers. As someone whose situation made hills vs. rows of vining veggies a more practical planting layout, these were very helpful. The literal hilling of the soil means the area where the seeds are warms faster, and the cloche/HotKap accelerates that further. Put something nice and nitrogenous (but not burningly so) below the hill for heavy feeders to grow their roots down into eventually, and you've got yourself a system.
If you use fixed cloches (reusable, plastic or glass), they either then need closeable ventilation ports, or need take other steps to make sure baby plants don't over-heat as days warm and it's very sunny. Though the HotKaps are disposable/single-use waxed paper, one can gradually tear an increasing-sizede hole in the top as the weather warms, to accomplish this.
While looking for an article that talks about using empty 16 oz salad green "clamshells" as cloches, I found "12 Seed Starting Ideas using Recycled Materials" and wanted to share:
https://lovelygreens.com/seed-starting-with-recycled-materials/
10. Sow your Seeds in Eggshells
Not only do these eggshell planters look incredibly cute but they too can be planted out directly into the garden. Just make sure to gently crack the eggshells before you put them in the soil.
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kshama2001 wrote: »kshama2001 wrote: »@lemurcat2 what's your soil temperature?
https://todayshomeowner.com/how-to-measure-soil-temperature-for-planting/
Garden Vegetable Seed Germination Temperatures
The soil temperature for planting vegetables should be:- 40° F or warmer: Lettuce, kale, peas, spinach.
- 50° F or warmer: Onions, leeks, turnips, Swiss chard.
- 60° F or warmer: Broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, beans, beets.
- 70° F or warmer: Tomatoes, squash, corn, cucumbers, melons, peppers.
The seed germination temperature is often much warmer than the plant’s growing temperature. Once established, many veggies can handle much cooler air temperatures as long as the soil is warm enough. To get a head start on spring planting, plant seeds indoors or use plastic row covers to warm the soil more quickly.
Last I knew, one could also buy a special heating mat (like a low-temp heating pad) for indoor seed-starting use in cool areas that have enough light.
People who haven't used cloches, including HotKaps (a little dome made out of waxed paper), might want to consider that option, as another alternative to row covers. As someone whose situation made hills vs. rows of vining veggies a more practical planting layout, these were very helpful. The literal hilling of the soil means the area where the seeds are warms faster, and the cloche/HotKap accelerates that further. Put something nice and nitrogenous (but not burningly so) below the hill for heavy feeders to grow their roots down into eventually, and you've got yourself a system.
If you use fixed cloches (reusable, plastic or glass), they either then need closeable ventilation ports, or need take other steps to make sure baby plants don't over-heat as days warm and it's very sunny. Though the HotKaps are disposable/single-use waxed paper, one can gradually tear an increasing-sizede hole in the top as the weather warms, to accomplish this.
While looking for an article that talk about using empty 16 oz salad green "clamshells" as cloches, I found "12 Seed Starting Ideas using Recycled Materials" and wanted to share:
https://lovelygreens.com/seed-starting-with-recycled-materials/
10. Sow your Seeds in Eggshells
Not only do these eggshell planters look incredibly cute but they too can be planted out directly into the garden. Just make sure to gently crack the eggshells before you put them in the soil.
(snip image, for length)
Good article! With the eggshells specifically, I wonder if there are meaningful implications from the alkalinity or the calcium, for some sensitive plants. Yeah, I'm geeking out pretty far, here.
I suspect a lot of us have soil we need to alkalyze a bit for best results, for some plants, in the first place.
I've done some of the other things in the article (newpaper pots, paper egg cartons, veg trays, paper towel seeds though not for tomatoes but others). Good stuff.
The regular styro egg cartons are decent seed-starters, too; and hard to recycle in most places unless you get eggs from a local source that re-uses. Poking from below or gently scooping to get the babies out does work, though I'd avoid it for things that resent transplanting in the first place, of course.
Plastic milk cartons and soda bottles are so diversely useful in the garden (if not very upscale looking
), and in areas without bottle deposits, they usually are just as recycleable after garden use, if washed up after. I liked milk cartons part-buried in some of the vine-hills' centers, as a drip-watering option. 2 -
Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I have a 3-in-1 that gives temp, moisture, and pH. I really just got it for the pH so I can make sure the soil around my blueberries is a bit acidic. I like the temp part since this year I plan to spread beneficial nematodes as soon as the temp is warm enough.2 -
kshama2001 wrote: »Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I just use my meat thermometer in the garden as well. It's a CDN, which was well rated by America's Test Kitchen at the time of purchase. That was @ 5 years ago, so may not be this exact model: https://smile.amazon.com/CDN-DTQ450X-Thin-Tip-Thermometer/dp/B0021AEAG2/
(If someone knows why using a meat thermometer in the garden wouldn't be accurate, please advise.)
Cool, that's helpful.0 -
Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I have a 3-in-1 that gives temp, moisture, and pH. I really just got it for the pH so I can make sure the soil around my blueberries is a bit acidic. I like the temp part since this year I plan to spread beneficial nematodes as soon as the temp is warm enough.
Nice, I want this.
Currently it's some cross between snowing and hailing so reading the gardening books is still winning over gardening, but I do want to buy things.1 -
I have tried growing a Virginia creeper i planted the seeds last may but nothing I know they can take a ,long time. Then a few weeks ago I decided to put some more in water but this time to remove thr outer coating after they had been in water overnight and two weeks later shoots so hopefully they will do well!1
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Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I have a 3-in-1 that gives temp, moisture, and pH. I really just got it for the pH so I can make sure the soil around my blueberries is a bit acidic. I like the temp part since this year I plan to spread beneficial nematodes as soon as the temp is warm enough.
@earlnabby I want one too! What's the brand?
Where do you buy your beneficial nematodes, which plants get these, and at what temperature?0 -
kshama2001 wrote: »Also, funny your link mentions a soil thermometer, which I may get. I realized I have no personal thermometer, so am trying to get one, and in searching on amazon I realized I need a new meat thermometer (I have a questionable one), so ordered that. It's thermometer week!
I have a 3-in-1 that gives temp, moisture, and pH. I really just got it for the pH so I can make sure the soil around my blueberries is a bit acidic. I like the temp part since this year I plan to spread beneficial nematodes as soon as the temp is warm enough.
@earlnabby I want one too! What's the brand?
Where do you buy your beneficial nematodes, which plants get these, and at what temperature?
Apparently they don't make them anymore. All the 3-in-1 I see these days are light, pH, and moisture.
I haven't bought the nematodes yet since you usually have to distribute them within about 2 weeks after purchase. I am still pricing out which ones I want to get. They are mixed with water and applied to the entire garden soil area when the soil temp reaches 44° or higher.2 -
Gardening is something I can do without being around others, but I have no idea how to get started other than I'd like to plant things I'd like to eat.
I'm horrible with plants, though. Any suggestions for how to get started and what resists killing? There's so much information out there and it's kind of overwhelming.2 -
clicketykeys wrote: »Gardening is something I can do without being around others, but I have no idea how to get started other than I'd like to plant things I'd like to eat.
I'm horrible with plants, though. Any suggestions for how to get started and what resists killing? There's so much information out there and it's kind of overwhelming.
Start with checking your space to see how much sunlight you get and become familiar with your growing zone. Pretty much any vegetable needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
If you are in the US, check the website for the agriculture department of the closest university to you. Many have extensions in various counties. They can give you great advice as to what veggies, or variety of common ones, do well in your area. Pick out a couple of things to try from a local garden center. Start small and build on that.
I am sure other countries have similar helpful sites to get gardeners started.3 -
clicketykeys wrote: »Gardening is something I can do without being around others, but I have no idea how to get started other than I'd like to plant things I'd like to eat.
I'm horrible with plants, though. Any suggestions for how to get started and what resists killing? There's so much information out there and it's kind of overwhelming.
Swiss chard is pretty indestructible. Pests here in MA don't bother it, and it is good with very cold - very hot temperatures (it will wilt in the summer sun, but bounces back.)
I grow it mostly for smoothies, but also steam it, throw it in soup, and if it gets out of control, make casserole, which I just posted about here: https://community.myfitnesspal.com/en/discussion/comment/44829157/#Comment_44829157
(Another garden pic there too.)
Not sure where to start with you - do you already have garden beds or should we start there?
We put in some 4 x 8' raised beds before I moved in with my OH in 2016, and then Fall 2018 put in another 2 x 12' bed.
That 18" fence was enough to keep out one wild rabbit - if you have rabbits, they may be more aggressive. My woodchuck oddly did not notice the kale but if she had, 18" would not have been nearly enough. Now that I have a cat, neither tunnels into my yard anymore.
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Another option for new veggie growers to dip a toe in the water is to start with 2-3 big pots. Some good candidates for growing in pots (in most areas) are cherry tomatoes, bush forms of things like zuchini or cucumber, hot or sweet peppers, and herbs (direct seed easy ones you like, maybe annuals (mature to flowers first year) like dill, basil, cilantro/coriander . . . ).
You still need the hours of sun, but you don't necessarily need to commit to a growing bed right off . . . unless you want to.
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Herbs are super easy, and I agree that tomatoes are easy in pots too. Before I moved to my current house with a little back yard, I was in a condo with a roof deck and in some years very successfully grew tomatoes and herbs up there. You just had to water the tomatoes A LOT in some year -- one I was having to do it twice a day during a hot and dry spell. Wind could be an issue up there too, sometimes.
My herb garden now consists of a couple of carts on my back porch with separate sections. I'd planned to try to bring one of them in to keep going during the winter and maybe I will in a later year but I couldn't figure out a good way to make it work in time this year.1 -
There are a wide variety of grow bag sizes as well for a low commitment option to try!Another option for new veggie growers to dip a toe in the water is to start with 2-3 big pots. Some good candidates for growing in pots (in most areas) are cherry tomatoes, bush forms of things like zuchini or cucumber, hot or sweet peppers, and herbs (direct seed easy ones you like, maybe annuals (mature to flowers first year) like dill, basil, cilantro/coriander . . . ).
You still need the hours of sun, but you don't necessarily need to commit to a growing bed right off . . . unless you want to.
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Got my two 3x8 beds built along the fence and bee hive set up! Bees coming soon, sometime between now and May.
Our neighbor’s are from Cuba so English isn’t their first language (the husband speaks more than the wife, the daughter will sometimes translate... I make feeble conversation attempts in Spanish most definitely have lost most of the vocab I used to know)... he was unloading a trailer of dirt into his new garden beds yesterday and I asked him what it was - topsoil! Though it looked a bit dark, but ok. Asked him where he got it - I could use some for my new beds. his brother’s farm. Hmmmm... he offered to get as much as I needed for free which was super sweet. Very nice family. Soon it started to rain/sleet so he told me to grab a wheelbarrow and get what I wanted, he could get more later, because he wanted to unload it while it was dry. Definitely not topsoil, rich, earthy compost from his brother’s cow farm! I got enough to do a couple inches base in each bed, but definitely have to layer news paper on top to prevent weed seeds from sprouting and taking over. Hubby and I helped unload the rest of the trailer so he didn’t have to stay out in the cruddy weather as long. Going to top it with some different topsoil/compost mix that should be a bit more predictable content wise.
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clicketykeys wrote: »Gardening is something I can do without being around others, but I have no idea how to get started other than I'd like to plant things I'd like to eat.
I'm horrible with plants, though. Any suggestions for how to get started and what resists killing? There's so much information out there and it's kind of overwhelming.
Start with checking your space to see how much sunlight you get and become familiar with your growing zone. Pretty much any vegetable needs at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
If you are in the US, check the website for the agriculture department of the closest university to you. Many have extensions in various counties. They can give you great advice as to what veggies, or variety of common ones, do well in your area. Pick out a couple of things to try from a local garden center. Start small and build on that.
I am sure other countries have similar helpful sites to get gardeners started.
I agree with this, great tips! I've found at one of our local centers (not one of the hardware ones but the gardening centers with healthier plants and more variety) the people that work there love to talk gardening and usually give great tips. I've had an embarrassing amount of conversations with people about plants, no one wants to go with me there anymore! I agree with others about herbs, for the most part they're pretty strong plants. The only one I've struggled with is dill and that's due to aphid infestations. I currently have rosemary, lavender, parsley, tarragon, marjoram, oregano, mint, thyme, chocolate mint, and have basil and thyme in my aerogarden inside, about 30 mixed basil seedlings and 4 sage ones (had old seeds and didn't think they'd grow), plus just started stevia seeds and a few are popping up. Cherry tomatoes are real easy too. I have radishes growing and they grow fairly fast and I don't have to do anything but wait for them to grow.1 -
Easy to start and can provide meal iscut and come again lettuce. You densely sow lettuce seeds and then aboutv6 weeks later start being able to chop it back to 1 inch high. Think fancy spring mix lettuce.
For sees my favorite online source is migardener.com0
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